mike_msch

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About mike_msch

  • Rank
    Mike

Profile Information

  • First Name
    michael
  • Jaguar Model
    X-Type
  • Year of Jaguar
    2005
  • UK/Ireland Location
    Berkshire

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  1. mike_msch

    Drop Links

    Im on my second set of front drop links and they have lasted less than 12 months. First time i bought cheap ones. Second time i trusted eurocarparts. Anyone recommend a good brand? Front tyres have not worn out unevenly, usually they need replacing after 12 months. But i guess the new lower arms fixed that problem.
  2. mike_msch

    Ignition Problems, 04 X-Type AWD Estate 2.5

    Thats great news. The cylinder must of had some serious carbon build up. Maybe through some redex at it. Always good to do that before MOT. I have to admit the x type is by far the easiest car i have ever worked on.
  3. mike_msch

    Ignition Problems, 04 X-Type AWD Estate 2.5

    Thats ok, if your doing it yourself its not so much the expense but the time.
  4. mike_msch

    Ignition Problems, 04 X-Type AWD Estate 2.5

    I think the coils are £30 maybe closer to £40 each (unless its a DIY job, best replace the back 3). You will need to spend £50 on inlet manifold gaskets. Plus it would make sense to get new spark plugs, so an extra £24. Its about 1 hour and 30 minutes in labour. I would not pay a garage no more than £300 for the job including parts. You could source the parts yourself, maybe get some 2nd hand coils from a low mileage car. https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/v6-ignition-coil-pack.html You could probably get labour down to £150 if you find your own parts.
  5. mike_msch

    Reverse switch sensor

    I have notice the area has oil around it. But also i have seen alot of x types with the same. Is this a possible broken seal around the sensor. There are no puddles on the ground.
  6. mike_msch

    EML Light keeps coming on.

    Could be a a loose connection on one of the sensors. But then again the fault should be stored. What obd reader are you using? It might be worth trying a different model of obd reader before paying a garage (some will do it for free). You could have a faulty ecu. The ecu can have water leak onto it as there is a drain hole just above it along the top of the driver side quarter panel. My one seems to be covered.
  7. mike_msch

    EML Light keeps coming on.

    Oil light flickering on and off on start up is fine, as long as it stays off after. You need to get a obd reader with its own device. Bluetooth ones are hit and miss. P1000 is ok but that means you have just reset it. P1111 is the code that permanently stays on the system which means all checks done and OK etc. Launch creader 3001 works well on the jag. Amazon sell it for less than £20. That will bring up the code straight away. I use it all the time.
  8. mike_msch

    Water pump drive pulley

    I have just changed the belt tensioner for the water pump. Could anyone tell me if the drive pulley (largest pulley) should have the smallest amount of rotational play. Its not much but im wondering if i should change the drive shaft for it.
  9. mike_msch

    Rear exhaust modifcation

    Few months and the car is running well. Definitely more responsive to the throttle. No faults have come up on the obd (been battling a idle issue but that was a vacuum hose). I took it to my garage who ran a full in depth diagnostic with some good old fashioned hard driving. They reported that all is good. They had 1 pending non fault requiring software upgrade. But no rush to get it done. There are very few awd rolling roads in berkshire to get some bhp results. My mechanic agrees that it definitely moves quicker at the lower rpm range. Luckily though they found the idler for water pump was rattling a bit. So new one on the way.
  10. mike_msch

    Vacuum hose

    Replaced the hose today. Quick job and big difference. It still revs up a small amount when i press down the clutch. Roughly 400rpm it goes up by. I think that maybe down to the load coming off the engine. But i know my flywheel is starting to deteriorate so wonder if that could cause the problem.
  11. mike_msch

    Vacuum hose

    The induction valve hose is whats gone. I have made a temporary fitting with a piece of old fuel pipe from a quad bike. Not 100% sealed but hopefully enough to add some pressure to stop the idling to rise too much.
  12. mike_msch

    X Type Remap

    You should always re map when there is a rolling road present. Too many people are fitting chips. There are a lot of independent 'specialists'.
  13. mike_msch

    Vacuum hose

    That clears it all up. The intermittent symptoms that i have had for nearly 2 months is now constant. I was cleaning up the throttle body and maf sensor this morning and for some reason decided to check that particular vacuum line. It had snapped in two places. Im guessing that it was broken long before and was only holding out as it must of been butted together. I have found a brand new one for £23. Expensive part considering how small it is.
  14. mike_msch

    Vacuum hose

    Can anyone tell me what the vacuum hose that goes into the back of the manifold does? Mine has snapped and i have a new one coming. It looks like it connects to the fuel rail. The haynes manual only mentions that it is a vacuum hose. Might explain why my idle is rough.
  15. mike_msch

    2.5 v6

    Do the v6's have vvt? I know its old technology now but i have no idea. I know the engine was designed by porsche, built by ford and cosworth and has links with mazda. Mazda call it there k series engine. Im sure the gear box is from mazda. Just learning about the engine, hopefully once the steering pump is done i can spend some time on the engine.