mike_msch

Has anyone fitted the Y section that connects to the twin exhaust on the awd models? Im thinking of getting the stock exhaust back on.

I would get another opinion. The engines are pretty solid. Unless the servicing was not done correctly. Sometimes repairing can be cheaper than buying another car.

May i suggest buying your own obd reader. There less than £20 on amazon. You could check yourself if the fault exists. Very easy to do as you plug it in under the driver side footwell (youtube can show I once had a mobile mechanic who specialised in making cars overheat. Its only when he worked on my third car that i realised it was intentional.

Fuel pump can be accessed by removing the back seat. Some models may need a square cut out. You mentioned in your first post that the fuel amongst other checks were ok. Are you sure your garage is not trying to pull a fast one and get as much out of you as possible. Does not make sense as the code indicates bank 1 cam shaft sensor faulty.

P0341 is bank 1 camshaft sensor. P0346 is not a fault code. P0346 just means it has found a fault which is p0341. Anyhow £1000 is ridiculous. Don't scrap your car! Firstly you need to purchase a new cam shaft sensor (2nd hand if you prefer). Up to £40 brand new. A bad spark plug(s) can give the same code. If your up for it i would replace all 6 plugs. You will need 6 new up inlet manifold gaskets, they are roughly £40 for 6. You can get cheaper. 6 plugs are £25. So thats £105 on parts. Eurocarparts always have a online discount code. Or try ebay. For any mechanic its no more than 1.5 hours work. Again thats about £130 for labour max. If you went all in with a garage and let them supply parts i would expect it to be £300 in total, maybe less. Shop around but don't scrap the car.

The spring for the door handle has snapped. Can the handle be replaced or do i need to replace the whole card. I notice the rear ones are attached to the door but the fronts are attached to the door card.

Im on my second set of front drop links and they have lasted less than 12 months. First time i bought cheap ones. Second time i trusted eurocarparts. Anyone recommend a good brand? Front tyres have not worn out unevenly, usually they need replacing after 12 months. But i guess the new lower arms fixed that problem.

Thats great news. The cylinder must of had some serious carbon build up. Maybe through some redex at it. Always good to do that before MOT. I have to admit the x type is by far the easiest car i have ever worked on.

Thats ok, if your doing it yourself its not so much the expense but the time.

I think the coils are £30 maybe closer to £40 each (unless its a DIY job, best replace the back 3). You will need to spend £50 on inlet manifold gaskets. Plus it would make sense to get new spark plugs, so an extra £24. Its about 1 hour and 30 minutes in labour. I would not pay a garage no more than £300 for the job including parts. You could source the parts yourself, maybe get some 2nd hand coils from a low mileage car. https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/v6-ignition-coil-pack.html You could probably get labour down to £150 if you find your own parts.

I have notice the area has oil around it. But also i have seen alot of x types with the same. Is this a possible broken seal around the sensor. There are no puddles on the ground.

Could be a a loose connection on one of the sensors. But then again the fault should be stored. What obd reader are you using? It might be worth trying a different model of obd reader before paying a garage (some will do it for free). You could have a faulty ecu. The ecu can have water leak onto it as there is a drain hole just above it along the top of the driver side quarter panel. My one seems to be covered.

Oil light flickering on and off on start up is fine, as long as it stays off after. You need to get a obd reader with its own device. Bluetooth ones are hit and miss. P1000 is ok but that means you have just reset it. P1111 is the code that permanently stays on the system which means all checks done and OK etc. Launch creader 3001 works well on the jag. Amazon sell it for less than £20. That will bring up the code straight away. I use it all the time.

I have just changed the belt tensioner for the water pump. Could anyone tell me if the drive pulley (largest pulley) should have the smallest amount of rotational play. Its not much but im wondering if i should change the drive shaft for it.

Few months and the car is running well. Definitely more responsive to the throttle. No faults have come up on the obd (been battling a idle issue but that was a vacuum hose). I took it to my garage who ran a full in depth diagnostic with some good old fashioned hard driving. They reported that all is good. They had 1 pending non fault requiring software upgrade. But no rush to get it done. There are very few awd rolling roads in berkshire to get some bhp results. My mechanic agrees that it definitely moves quicker at the lower rpm range. Luckily though they found the idler for water pump was rattling a bit. So new one on the way.

Replaced the hose today. Quick job and big difference. It still revs up a small amount when i press down the clutch. Roughly 400rpm it goes up by. I think that maybe down to the load coming off the engine. But i know my flywheel is starting to deteriorate so wonder if that could cause the problem.

The induction valve hose is whats gone. I have made a temporary fitting with a piece of old fuel pipe from a quad bike. Not 100% sealed but hopefully enough to add some pressure to stop the idling to rise too much.

You should always re map when there is a rolling road present. Too many people are fitting chips. There are a lot of independent 'specialists'.

That clears it all up. The intermittent symptoms that i have had for nearly 2 months is now constant. I was cleaning up the throttle body and maf sensor this morning and for some reason decided to check that particular vacuum line. It had snapped in two places. Im guessing that it was broken long before and was only holding out as it must of been butted together. I have found a brand new one for £23. Expensive part considering how small it is.

Can anyone tell me what the vacuum hose that goes into the back of the manifold does? Mine has snapped and i have a new one coming. It looks like it connects to the fuel rail. The haynes manual only mentions that it is a vacuum hose. Might explain why my idle is rough.

Do the v6's have vvt? I know its old technology now but i have no idea. I know the engine was designed by porsche, built by ford and cosworth and has links with mazda. Mazda call it there k series engine. Im sure the gear box is from mazda. Just learning about the engine, hopefully once the steering pump is done i can spend some time on the engine.

Me be impatient i have spent the day under the bonnet. I have found what most likely is causing some over revving. One of my inlet manifold bolts has sheared. Luckily its the smallest bolt closest to the power steering reservoir. Two options, drill it out and replace with an oversized bolt or drill right through and use a nut and bolt to secure it. But also good idea to replace the others.

Update from quick drive. Does not show symptoms when out of gear, parked etc. My mechanic says its the computer re acting to no engine braking as the clutch is down. So it revs up a bit. Also my dmf has been rattling for some time, so a bit of unbalance can cause over revving. Plus my exhaust modification could of confused things and is flowing at a different rate that the engine is more responsive. Overall there is no concern unless a code is thrown up. Plus he said old cars dont play like brand new after 10 years.

Im using a cheap obd reader from ebay. Seems to pick up codes when i remove sensors whilst the car is running. Its almost like the throttle is not reacting to me slowing down. My position sensor is riveted on. Some x types have a smaller one closer to the engine.

Sorry, petrol awd. Im thinking that the misfire feeling going up hill is down to wrong gear and not enough rpm. But the sensitive throttle seemed a bit unusual to me. Almost like it wanted to either race or coast. Was a bit difficult to keep a constant speed.