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Russ68 last won the day on August 12

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  1. No problem John, we sound of similar mind about proper maintenance and our love of the S-Type. Glad you sorted the issue and hope it stays fixed 👍
  2. Hey John, It's almost always the 'left' bank which is an issue on the S-Type, it was on mine when I bought it. She would run ok until under load when she stuttered and coughed and was not happy. Reason being you have to take the inlet manifold off to get at the ignition coils and spark plugs on that side. So I imagine most traders / mechanics just don't bother when it come to servicing, meaning I had some ancient ignition parts under there and you could too! Good news is that the relatively low cost job transformed the car performance. I went for good quality coils and plugs, plus changed the inlet manifold gaskets I disturbed, she ran like new afterwards 👍 Good luck 😉
  3. Chain, it's a good point of a wonderful engine 👍
  4. I think it's more the UK headlights are for right hand drive, so the headlights are focused left to the kerb rather than right to into oncoming traffic. Many UK drivers will remember having to mask headlights before driving in Europe. I've just read that some Zenon headlights will not need converting, or that there is a switch to convert the beam pattern. Aren't the 2007 headlamps Zenon? You may not need to do anything! https://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/blog/headlights-point-right-in-europe/
  5. Hi Nicolas, Someone can confirm definitely, but I don't think a 2001 headlight will be suitable for 2007. There was a major facelift in 2004 that included completely new headlights. Good luck, Russ 😉
  6. You might be better off with an earlier 4.0 engine from an XK8, like this one, which seems very cheap at £675 or offers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284331537207?hash=item42337af337:g:MvYAAOSwXs5gxiqH An absolute ton of work as Jon suggests though. Hope you're handy with the spanners and have good facilities as this is not likely to be something viable to pay someone to do for you 😉
  7. Russ68


    I attach a current picture, the last 2 years, or my attempts at removal haven't been kind! Unfortunately, there is just not enough of the nut head left for any of those extractors. So I think I'm back to trying to chain drill through the side and cold chisel it off. Unless it's an option to drop the hub and wheel off and then access the stud from the back? 🤔
  8. Russ68


    Brilliant! Thanks Trevor! This is just what I need! Except a 3/8 drive will have no chance with the remains of the seized nut. But I see a 1/2 drive version is listed that may be up to the job. Various sizes, not a set, so I'll measure up 1st and order that in 👍
  9. Russ68


    Hi Jamie, Thanks for that, a blast from the past but a welcome one! So this is the FUBAR nut: We can see the nut has sheared off the end of the stud showing in the centre. If I use the holesaw (which I am familiar with due to DIY), wouldn't the centre drill just blunt itself on the stud and the saw part just round off the nut? The outer chrome is already missing. I've been considering either chaindrilling into one side of the nut to the point I can drive a cold chisel into it and prise it off. I bought a pack of 6mm drill bits for that purpose. I also wondered about arc welding a long bar to the nut, but looking at this pic I don't see how I could do this without welding to the stud. I'm about to recommission the car so if there is a better method, I'd be happy to hear it! Thanks, Russ 😁
  10. Apparently if the car is over 10 years old, it doesn't legally have to have an MPH speedo in the UK. I'd imagine it would be desirable though, or you'd constantly be having to do conversion in your head! I have a Japanese import MGF, that had been converted by the importer, but I eventually dropped in a new instrument binnacle. This was reasonably straightforward, but it's a simpler car than the Jag, so I can't comment on the specifics of doing the same to an S-Type 😉
  11. Hi Knut, Generally I don't have a problem with eBay parts. But being you are likely to have to ship internationally, and that if you fit the part and there is an issue, it would be more of a problem than if the seller was in the next town. I'd be a bit careful and go for a new part or one that had at least been tested with a warranty. I've just bought myself a complete running S-Type as a donor car, so luckily, I do not have these issues 😁 Good luck!
  12. I have edited the page myself, bringing it more in line with what we think of the S-Type I am sure 😉
  13. Hi fellow S-Type owners, I dipped into Wikipedia earlier to see if I could confirm some S-Type production figures I was interested in, namely the number of 5 speed manual 3.0 petrols S-Types built, if anyone has the info or can point me towards it? When I was somewhat shocked to find that under the 'Reception' section of the S-Type page, it was still carrying the ill informed opinions of the ex Top Gear crew who give the model less than glowing reviews! Here's a link to the page, scroll down a bit to see 'Reception' After all these years is this really the most relevant info that a casual researcher will find out about our cars? I'm not sure how one logs in and edits a page, but I hope that one of us knows how and can get it done! Or can presume upon the services of a technically savvy friend or relative that can do it? Presumably, we're all fond of the cars and like the styling, refinement and power of the cars; grace space pace etc. I think they have aged well and they are getting that bit rarer a sight on our roads. To see them being so savaged by these ~20 year old reviews by those self important blowhards is mildly irritating. In other news, I've just bought a 2nd S-Type, another rare 5 speed manual, as my Sport has been SORNED for a short while and I thought having a donor car will be invaluable as the years go on. The new SE has a short MOT and once I have the tax sorted, I look forward to using her for a few months and can hardly wait to get back behind the wheel! All the best, Russ 😉
  14. Hmmmm, bad luck Tony, this one has been fighting you! I'd have said headgasket, but you've checked this, no emulsion under the valve covers and oil filler etc? Otherwise, how's your radiator and water pump? Plus the drive belt? I also have a 2001 3.0, my only overheating was caused by a leaky expansion tank. But I'm can see I'll need a new radiator at some point. Good luck!
  15. There's a good chance it's a mechanical rather than electric issue. I've had to change the window regulators on mine, although at least one was just the cable coming off, it should become apparent with the door card removed. Luckily the clips on the Jag door cards are of better quality than some lesser marques, so you can hopefully pop them off and on without breaking them if you're careful 😉
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