david moore

The transmission gear changes, Oil pressure and lock-up operation are all electronically controlled. The TCM
receives electrical signals from sensors indicating vehicle speed and throttle opening. In response to these signals the TCM selects the
appropriate gear and regulates other related conditions.
Actual transmission control changes are made by actuators (solenoids) that respond to input signals received from the TCM. These
solenoids operate in response to electrical signals they regulate the control valve operation. The control valves cause changes in the fluid
flow passages. This results in pressure changes within the transmission. if possible link up to the TCM as this may give you the result your looking for, but you need the correct software in which to do this! best of luck on this issue.

with the covers off both my sills i then rubbed down to the metal, as you seen, then covered in anti rust treatment, then with silver hamerite paint x2 coats,.. then with my builders rubberiod liquid paint to protect from the elements.( dam good stuff. ) but where the holes are in the body of the sills spray them with an anti corrosive to which you think best to use. many good ones on eBay.

on the underneath of the plastic sill there are 9 clips which you have to remove, on mine i used a screwdriver  so it undone a little bit then pull the clip out very carefully so as not to damage the clip.  then open all doors and grab from the top of the sill, and pull towards you...not up and not down. the clips look like what they use in the door cards. i would say there are about 5 clips. hope that helps.

sounds like you have had a good day doing all the things that make it feel positive in what youve done. peter enjoy the rest of your evening :-)  

7 hours ago, Bryan M said:

Hi Nick,

Did you treat yours at all or have you been keeping it in a garage? As far as I can see the rust problems aren't a myth as I've seen a few horrendous pictures of sills more or less disintegrating with rust. Apparently this issue was sorted for post 2003 cars but I think they're still prone to rust more than usual. Mine certainly does have some corrosion underneath but the metal still looks pretty healthy.

The rear window strips of mine had bubbled too but the garage have since replaced them. According to them it's about £20 per strip.

Do you find it a pretty reliable car? My main concern with it after finding the engine ran well was the corrosion but hopefully, from what I can see, this won't be as big an issue as I'd imagined.

hi bryan, look at my photos in my profile and you can see how my sills were?

if head gasket has gone or leaking? the sign for this is undo the Oil filler cap and see if its like a creamy sluge! then that answers your problem :-(  

sounds like you are getting there, but still check water pump? also it may need a complete system flush! does them good too, as when was the last time it was done?  good luck

5 hours ago, SteveSheldon said:

Hi David, You will be more than welcome.. the convoy should be in Madiera Drive by 9am on the day - would you like me to add you to the list of attendees for just the main event?

steve the main event will be fine, jaguar x type 2.0d  many thanks.

start car and let it run, then check expansion bottle for  coolant/water, then very very carefully check the coolant hose`s with your hand (if you are confident) be very careful of fans as they may cut in?  keep a check on temp gauge in car. if it reads off the scale/red, fans should cut in on the radiator? put car heating on full and feel if it gets red hot! thats a good sign if it does. check for any onboard messages regarding. check coolant levels, check for leaks, if none? this may be sensor or thermostat or electric engine  coolant sensor on engine block. all things for you to check first, good luck.

hope to take a trip down, me + one and meet on the sea front,  depends on how long it takes to get there?  giving the jaguar a blow of the old cobwebs.  hope to see a good lot of you :-)  lets hope the weather is good to us all that day?

after checking the discs, as joe said check the calipers and that all pistons are moving when very gently applying brakes. if they all move ok, then check all bolts for correct torque/tighten.  spin disc and then apply brake and with both hands try to move the disc side to side up/down, if movement when doing this its then wheel bearings.  good luck.

cheers andrew, it all makes sense seeing the photos and also how you have explained on the fitting. many thanks for replying,

in the gear box you have solenoids which also operate with speed sensors, if these are not working correctly then this may be your problem? you need to get a garage to link up to your tcm on the auto box, and it may help narrow the issue...

we had a chap at work who was told his turbo was knackered! and would cost over £600 +vat .... but we checked it out with this list and it turned out to be the actuator !   cost of repair £82   and we fitted it in half an hour. guess what though weeks later he sold the car....

turbo, Fuel Charging and Controls - Turbocharger - Turbocharger
Diagnosis and Testing
Overview
For information on the operation of the turbocharger:
REFER to: Turbocharger (303-04C Fuel Charging and Controls - Turbocharger, Description and Operation).
Inspection and Verification
• WARNINGS:
The following tests may involve working in close proximity to hot components. Make sure adequate protection is used. Failure to
follow this instruction may result in personal injury.
The turbocharger can continue to rotate after the engine has stopped. Do not attempt to check the turbocharger until one minute has
elapsed since the engine was switched off. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.
1. Verify the 1. customer concern.
2. 2. Visually inspect for obvious mechanical or electrical faults.
Visual inspection chart
Mechanical Electrical
Intake air system
Hose(s)/hose connections
Turbocharger
General engine condition.
Circuit(s)
Electrical connections and harnesses
Manifold absolute pressure and temperature (MAPT) sensor
Turbocharger actuator
Engine control module (ECM)
Symptom chart
Symptom Possible source Action
Poor performance
(off-boost)
Low/Contaminated
fuel
Restricted intake air
system
General engine
condition
Engine control
module (ECM) failure
Check the fuel level and condition. Draw off approximately 1 ltr (2.11 pints) of fuel and allow
to stand for 1 minute. Check to make sure there is no separation of the fuel indicating water
or other liquid in the fuel. Check the intake air system for restriction. Check the engine
condition, compressions, etc. if there are indications of a mechanical fault. Check for DTCs
indicating a module fault. Refer to the warranty policy and procedures manual if a module is
suspect.
No boost Electrical
connections and
harnesses
Restricted intake air
system
Charge air cooler
restricted/leaking
Turbocharger
actuator failure
Turbocharger failure
Engine control
module (ECM) failure
Check the electrical connections and harnesses. Check the intake air system for
restriction/leakage. Check the turbocharger actuator and circuit. Refer to the electrical guides.
Check the turbocharger for wear. Disconnect the turbocharger intake and outlet pipework and
turn the turbocharger by hand. Any roughness indicates a fault. Check any up and down
movement in the turbocharger shaft. Excessive movement indicates a fault. If in doubt,
compare the suspect unit with a new turbocharger. Check for DTCs indicating an actuator or
module fault. Refer to the warranty policy and procedures manual if a module is suspect.
No
boost/excessive
noise
Turbocharger failure Disconnect the turbocharger intake and outlet pipework and turn the turbocharger by hand.
Any roughness indicates a fault. Check any up and down movement in the turbocharger shaft.
Excessive movement indicates a fault. If in doubt, compare the suspect unit with a new
turbocharger.
For a complete list of all diagnostic trouble codes that could be logged on this vehicle. REFER to: Electronic Engine Controls (303-14B
Electronic Engine Controls - 2.0L Duratorq-TDCi/2.2L Duratorq-TDCi (110kW/150PS) - Puma, Diagnosis and Testing).
Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) Relating to Turbocharger Issues
DTC Description
P2263 Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost System Performance
. This vehicle may not feature all of the components listed.
. This DTC may be caused by:
. Damaged or disconnected vacuum hose. Check for air leaks at turbocharger. Vanes on the turbocharger sticking closed. Turbocharger
defective.
. Or
. Fault reported by the rotary electronic actuator.
. This DTC may be caused by:
. CAN communication BUS fault. Rotary electric actuator. Low battery voltage. Turbocharger defective.
P132A Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Electrical
. Fault reported by the rotary electronic actuator.
. This DTC may be caused by:
. Rotary electric actuator. Renew the variable geometry turbocharger.
P132B Turbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Performance
. Fault reported by the rotary electronic actuator.
. This DTC may be caused by:
. Faulty turbocharger, mechanism may be sticking.
. Rotary electric actuator. Renew the variable geometry turbocharger.
P132CTurbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Voltage
. Fault reported by the rotary electronic actuator.
DTC Description
. This DTC may be caused by:
. Low battery voltage. Check the condition of the battery. Check the wiring and the appropriate fuse. High battery voltage. Check the
battery charging system.
P138DTurbocharger/Supercharger Boost Control A Temperature Too High
. Fault reported by the rotary electronic actuator.
. This DTC may be caused by:
. Leaking exhaust system. Engine overheat condition.
. Rotary electric actuator. Renew the variable geometry turbocharger.
P179ACAN Engine Control Module (ECM)/Turbocharger Boost Control A Actuator Circuit Malfunction
. Fault reported by the rotary electronic actuator or powertrain control module (PCM).
. This DTC may be caused by:
. Controller area network (CAN) communication BUS fault. Check CAN wiring/CAN Network is functioning. If CAN wiring/CAN Network is
functioning but the vehicle has loss of power, then renew the variable geometry turbocharger.
Diagnostic Procedure
Log any concerns raised by the customer regarding the fault with the vehicle – Discuss with workshop supervisor/receptionist
Check logged DTC - Rectify concern
Check the vehicle Integrated Diagnostic System (IDS) DVD patch file calibration – Update to the latest level
Quick Check List
Listen for unusual mechanical noise and watch for vibration
Listen for a high pitched noise (it can indicate air or gas leaks)
Listen for noise level cycling. It can indicate a restriction in the air cleaner or ducting
Inspect for missing or loose nuts, bolts, clamps and washers
Inspect for loose or damaged intake and exhaust manifolds and their ducting and clamps
Inspect for damaged or restricted Oil supply and drain lines
Inspect for cracked or deteriorating turbocharger housings
Inspect for external Oil leakage; external deposits (indicates air, Oil, exhaust or coolant leakage)
Inspect for a restricted air filter
Check the turbocharger variable vane actuator arm for normal operation, free movement and damage
Point Health Check:
1. Turbocharger Data Plate:
- 1. Check the turbocharger data stamped on the compressor housing. Record assembly number, serial number and turbocharger
type
- 2. Ensure turbocharger type and assembly number are correct for the engine application
2. Compressor/Turbine Wheel (Turbocharger System Trouble Shooting):
-
WARNING: Ensure wheels have stopped rotating before handling
CAUTION: Never attempt to straighten blades. If any bent blades are detected replace the turbocharger
• NOTE: Root cause of failure should be identified to eliminate repeat failure. Please make reference to section 'Turbocharger
Trouble Shooting'
1. Check for cracked/bent or damaged compressor (impeller) blades - Replace turbocharger if damaged
- 2. Check for cracked/bent or damaged turbine blades - Replace turbocharger if damaged
3. Compressor/Turbine Housing:
-
• NOTE: Removal of the compressor or turbine housings will invalidate the Warranty
1. Check for foreign objects, damage, or for excessive oil at the compressor housing air inlet and outlet
- 2. Check for foreign objects, damage, or for excessive oil at the turbine housing exhaust inlet and outlet
4. Turbocharger Bearing Clearances:
-
• NOTE: If there is contact between compressor/turbine wheel and housing - Replace the turbocharger
1. Gently rotate the compressor wheel and check for smooth operation
- 2. Gently hold to one side and rotate the compressor wheel and check for smooth operation
5. Bearing Housing:
-
• NOTE: Removal of the compressor or turbine housings will invalidate the Warranty
1. Check oil feed and drain port for loose fasteners, adapters or damage to flanges, housing faces or threads which may cause
leakage
- 2. Check for loose or broken turbine and compressor housing fasteners. If mounting flanges are damaged, replace or tighten
(torque to manufacturer's specification)

andrew love the tint covers...but how do they stay up ? or how do you fit them? so that they dont fall off. also can you get one for the rear.  as you say good idea for when its sunny.

very very nice, also what a lovely shine on the bodywork,  and in good old british racing green, what a classic colour.  your engine bay is perfect too. do you still service the car yourself ? thanks for the pics as i love looking at such great cars.

this is the front bonnet plate catch.  its been stripped of old paint and rust treated and now zinc galvanised sprayed. next stag will be primer then gloss black finish.  man do i love my jaguar...sweet :-)   all work done by myself..

gary.. its a grin that stays on your face for ages. and no doubt yours will be too. happy motoring and enjoy, by the way nice motor.

this topic has given me a lot of thought?  with what you first explained, i would link it up to the ( tcm ) tansmission control unit. and see what the diagnostic report says. but the abs light! well thats something else to check too. but with the right diagnostic tool it should flag up what the problem is? looking forward to your reply on when it comes back, as to what it is ? ? ?

Electronic Turbo Actuator for Jaguar X Type.   look this up on eBay and read what it says. if this is you then that may be the part you need? best of luck ...

james its nice that you love our jag's   but  do you know what your insurance will be on a car like this ? as it could cost you more than the car... just a thought. my first car was a right shed, but it helped me build up my insurance. 

hi neal, if you now a little about cars this may help? find your turbo which is at the back of the engine close to the firewall.  then look at the actuator arm which works by  vacum..  there is a lever off the turbo to either a electronic unit, or a metal vacum unit. you must make sure that this is moving when rev-ing the car. if not it may be the problem?  in the picture mine is a metal vacum unit with the vacum pipe coming off it.  check for splits on the pipe first. remove heat shield cover plate and then check. for movement on the arm as i said early.. good luck.

my insurance quote on my 2.0d x type, with full no claims and protection on a claim is coming out at £143   now i dont know about you but to me thats pretty dam good. wil still shop around and see if i can get better?

hi richard.. i own a 2.0d on a  54 plate, if you do consider on a x type diesel make sure there is no rattle from the daul mass flywheel,( makes a loud thumping noise) also on the test drive press every button going and see if they work ? service history, + stamps. no steering wobble, brake judder when pressing brake pedal, if a noise comes from the left side of the engine it my be crankshaft wheel damper or pulley tensioner, check all sills as the x type does suffer with this problem of rust so be warned to check on this. best return of miles per gallon on mine is 49mpg.  also the drivers seat wears bad in the bottom corner with wear and tear. any more info i will try and help.( but i do love my car :-)