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Have a look on eBay for part number MNC1490AH. Aftermarket being a lot cheaper than the originals.

Welcome aboard Tommy!

If we are talking about the 'R' badge, mine was missing its orange at the top, see picture. I managed to match this colour with one of the wife's many different nail varnishes at it worked a treat and as its enamel paint it will last for ages

You could also look at SNG Barrett's website as they hold large stocks of parts for these cars. SNG Barratt UK | Keeping your Jaguar on the road N6 JMX

Hello all, 1st time jag owner here. I collected my 2014 xfs 3.0 sportbrake portfolio just a few weeks ago, it has been back to the garage already as it turns out the bcm was corrupt and it has the dreaded failed door lock actuator too 🤣 all covered on warranty thankfully! Apart from that i am absolutely loving the car! Anyway thought i would introduce myself, im Tommy, also known as the ADHD Fishkeeper (yes diagnosed and not one of them that claims they are but never seen a professional) on tiktok. Im 33 and from the yorkshire area, im looking forward to learning as much as possible from the forums and even meeting some of you at any of the jaguar events.

I had my 2015 X250 3.0D S serviced this week. When I got in the car today, the "Low Washer Fluid" warning came on and I immediately thought of the well known fault where a leaking washer pump can ruin the car's electrics by leaking water onto the ECU. I tried to check the actual level of the water but despite my best efforts couldn't see the level - is there any way of checking the actual washer water level, just in case it is the sensor that has failed rather than the water level actually being low? Also, am I right in saying that the ECU that can become corroded by the water leaking, is the one behind the removable door to the right of the accelerator pedal? I checked this and as far as I can tell it's all bone dry. Mine is one of the very last X250s, produced in mid April 2015 and the VIN is later than the one mentioned in the Jaguar America bulletin on this issue so in the past I've assumed won't suffer this well known fault but on reflection, I think it's worth me booking the car into a specialist that knows of this problem to get it checked and to go for the spliced wire modification - even if my car is a later one which wasn't affected, I think the mod is worth doing for piece of mind. I'll also ask if they can check if the washer pump is leaking and whether any water has got into the ECU area so they can dry it out. Am I right in thinking that the battery doesn't need to be disconnected to do the wire mod? Many thanks in advance.

Try looking for a Nissens brand on ebay for your car Paul - they manufacture most of the aftermarket (and many OEM) radiators. They may not have an uprated version but that's not necessarily a bad thing! If you have an excessively large volume of cold coolant in the rad when the 'stat opens, this can cause other, very expensive, problems.

I'm looking to replace my leaking radiator and would like recommendations to get an uprated aluminium replacement to improve the heating/cooling. At the moment i can't get a Jaguar replacement due to the JLR hack, so any suggestions would be most appreciated. Cheers Paul

Body panels still available

Try mark at jagrar he currently has a few s types he is breaking so may have a good condition seal

Force

I have just experienced the same issue on my Jag XF 2013 with a pop and restricted performance message. I was advised by the AA it was an intercooler plastic pipe issue but looking at these threads I think it might be the plastic casing around the intercooler itself - does that require the enire intercooler to be replaced?

electromotive

I'd read the DTCs first before you fire the parts cannon at it. It sounds like the whole bank is effected so i'd look more at a fuel delivery/pressure problem on that bank and as a general bit of maintenance, run some injector cleaner through it.

This thread has a load of info with pictures on how to fix it without having to remove the dash. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xk-xkr-x150-33/c-drain-duck-bill-fix-my-solution-149349/

Hi, I have a 2003 S-type 2.5l, 150,000km. When cold starting, the engine starts fine and the rpm is around 1,500rpm. After a few seconds, when the rpm starts to drop, the engine starts to run very rough, and the engine light starts to come on, sometimes flashing. After a few more seconds, when the rpm reaches around 1,000rpm, the engine runs fine again, which it then continues to do while driving. The error code is ''misfire cylinder 1 -3 -5''. I suspected that it could be a vacuum leak, and replaced all the gaskets on the intake. I also replaced the plugs and coils, but none of this has helped. Does anyone have an idea what could be wrong?

I am sure this is a well known problem. I have had several proposal to cure it. The fault occurred when I turned off the Air con so suspect melt from A/C condenser, it shows up as two streams of water dripping on either side of footwell, and is influenced by the motion of the car on bends. I have been told that there are drain valves on to tray that collects water when A/C is defrosted. The valve is called the duckbill, and I think from my Triumph days we called it the Phart valves but I bet they are the same, Triumphs being relatively unsophisticated cars were easy to get at, because they didn't have much to get in the way . I have even found a VIN number which after this the fault is supposedly cured. The description I read said they were very difficult to get at. My workshop guy who is off work at he moment, heart plumbing! say's it is easy but you need to get up on a 4 pillar lift and poke something up the tube. With solutions like this, my hope is that you guy's have an easy solution. Any suggestions and full descriptions of methods would be gratefully received. Spyderromeo

Bye the way I have a silver grey car Lunar Grey and the number plate and boot open surround was grey painted ( Slightly different colour to the car, there was nothing wrong with it but the new chrome one I purchased on eBay new but old stock was beautiful and after a short polish it looks absolutely fantastic well worth the effort and so easily done after a short watch of the afore mentioned you tube video, what do people call them they are not videos or DVD,s ?? Spyderromeo

Yeah, never believed the Lifetime BS I have purchased Dexron VI, hope it works FYI IF anyone is interested in my journey with this 2006 Jaguar S Type R check out my YouTube channel JAGVETTE1

Susceptance

Resistence

If you go down the Lanogard route, it needs an annual inspection and top up treatment, but it doesn't go "hard" the same as Waxoyl. N6 JMX

Sounds like a good plan, I think if I administer the protection myself I will do a good job, but I have been told by a few people that they don't think there is any DIY job that is as thorough as a professional one and it can't be done really well without access to a full 4 post lift, and that access and visibility are key to a good job. Just a point to think about. Spyderromeo

Hi Jim, doing the research now, while both protect, they are quite different.

Hi N6 JMX, thanks for explaining, good to know. I was aware it was a model x150, but thought it was still an xk8. I have had the car ceramic coated, should I also wax it before putting the car cover on?