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Hi guys, I am interested in buying Jaguar X-Type 2008 2.0d, but I have some questions regarding this. The car has been used and it has about 200 000km, the previous owner says that the car is pretty much serviced on time but there is only one things that he mentioned - check engine light is ON (not sure if it's orange or red light). However, the previous owner says that the light is ON because the DPF is taken away, so the car has no DPF at all. That is why I have two questions: Does this model has DPF at all? Because I couldn't find that 2.0d has DPF, only 2.2, 2.5.... Could the check engine light be on because the DPF is taken away? I know about the legality of not having a DPF but if I am being honest in my country that is not much of an issue, Thank you!

Many thanks Jim. Sounds as though it'd going to be search the breakers time! It will need a respray anyway, so may as well get one from a breakers and spray it, rather than mess around trying to repair it.

Registration number S12 OOC for sale on retention certificate. Somebody naughty might put a black fixing pin in the letter C to make it read S1 2000, but i do not recommend it. Offers Mobile 0771 257 8724

Hi Bryan, that does look quite nasty, but I don't know the ins and outs of plastic welding. Some plastics can be welded successfully these days, but one opinion is not conclusive. Possibly worth checking with another bodyshop or 2. The front nosecone / bumper is usually a damaged part in any accidents, so you may need to try a few breakers before you find someone with a suitable version in stock. People like Auto Reserve are usually a good first stop, but simply type "Jaguar Breaker" into a search engine and you will get several hits. Good luck. N6 JMX

Hi, I managed to crack and scratch the offside front/side of my front bumper on my silver grey convertible XKR (reg 12/9/01, variant QAB2 version 4E12). It was low speed, so hopefully not too much damage to anything else. I can see the offside orange indicator cover is damaged and the offside headlight assembly has been pushed up a bit at the back at the top, but otherwise appears undamaged. I took it to a local bodywork shop and they said the material (some sort of plastic) cannot be welded, so i would be be best off getting a secondhand one from a breakers. Does anyone know a) whether this advice is correct b) if not, does anyone know who can repair it, I'm in North West London and c) if correct, where I could find a replacement secondhand bumper? Thanks for any help!

Thanks for that. As you probably know, the User Manuals are not very helpful. Red light, refer to Main Dealer. By using his, non Jaguar, diagnostic kit and his mobile phone, the Green Flag guy seemed to pick up fault codes so, hopefully my local garage will be able to do the same. The owner used to race cars so, he should know what he’s doing 🤞🤞 l will let you know what transpires and, thanks for the input 😎

Thanks

Hi David, The quiescent drain for our cars is 30 milliamperes or 0.03A so not very high at all. This is also easily checked. I would ensure the day before you leave, you allow your CTEK to fully charge the battery. However, it would be worth having the capacity of the battery checked as it may have dropped from lack of use. Lead sulphate begins to form at 12.4v and its these sulphites that strangle the battery.

Hi David, a battery drain over 3 - 4 weeks on a late model XKR is NOT unusual due to the quite high quiescent current that occurs on modern cars due to all of the background modules "humming away". I assume that you are aware of the "double lock" facility on your car? When locking the car, press the lock button on the fob twice in quick succession (it will then beep at you) and this put the electronics "to sleep" after a few minutes, meaning that quiescent drain is as low as practical. In addition, the fobs should be stored in a suitable location - a Faraday Pouch, or Box, is best, but in any event at least 20ft / 6m away from the car if simply left on a shelf / key hook. This stops the car from "seeing" the keys and coming / staying awake in anticipation. I am familiar with the C-Tek unit, but my preferred smart charger is the Ring Automotive RSC 612 unit, which works specifically for 5.0 litre engines. These do so much more than just charge the battery as there are test functions as well, plus they are suitable for AGM batteries on stop / start enabled vehicles. I have several of these chargers and leave them connected to the vehicles long term - like all over the winter when the Jaguar does not poke its nose out. One very handy function is the LCD screen which indicates the state of charge / condition of the battery as a percentage. These Ring Automotive Smart Chargers are not cheap at circa £100, but in my view they are worth it. N6 JMX

Understand about main dealer labour costs and was not indicating that's where you should go, simply asking about what your handbook states about the various warning lights. Without fault codes from Jaguar specific diagnostic equipment, there is not much else can be advised but wait and hear what your independent says about the investigation. Sorry. N6 JMX

Hi David. If you can't leave the CTEK connected I presume yo would not be able to leave another charger connected either. Your CTEK probably needs more than a couple of hours to properly charge the battery and if it is going flat in 3/4 weeks a "beefier" charger would probably not help anyway. I would be looking at a solar charger to keep it topped up whilst you are away. Just make sure you use one with a maintainer module or it could overcharge the battery. https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/product-group-tests/43793/best-solar-chargers-car-batteries-2023 The other, longer term, fix is to check your car does not have an excessive quiescent drain such as an internal light staying on or one of the many computer modules failing to shut down properly John

Pretty good chance it is the MAF sensor

Aready have a CTEK but need to buy a decent 10am or larger battery charger as found battery flat after 3/4 weeks away - not happened before as when away 3/4 weeks three times a year it’s always started first time and I’ve just used my ctek to boost it up for a few hours before using again Cannot leave CTEK on whilst away Car is a 2012 v8 XKR coupe with 26k miles and good Varta battery 2.5 year’s old thanks

Thanks for the reply. He had diagnostics but, not the specific Jag ones. That’s how he thought that it could be a solenoid in the Turbo. No previous warnings. l only drove it as far as the nearest Lay By. I notice that there is some references to ‘actuators’ on this site and, that sounds a possibility. No black smoke. From previous experience, the garage it is booked with is reliable but, the Jag has never been to them. Reluctant to go to Main Dealer due prohibitive labour costs

Did you get any fault codes from the Green Flag folks? Do you have a code reader to plug in and read the codes stored yourself? A red light usually means an immediate stop and investigate, whilst an amber light means stop, investigate and limp home, but don't set off on any long road trips. What does your handbook say for the warning lights? Presumably something like "Consult Main Dealer". N6 JMX

black

Hi l have a 2014 2.2 XF and was overtaking on A34 when Red Warning light came on and, speed Dropped from 70 to about 15. Green Flag eventually turned up and diagnosed problem with Solonoid in Turbo. 150 miles from home, car had to go on Low Loader. Amber Engine Block warning now on as well so, not driving at all Trusted Jag specialist sadly retired so, booked in with recommended non Jag Garage for 20/5. Does this diagnosis sound right and, what sort of cost am l looking at. Only 33,000 on the clock as retired. Thanks Dodge

Matt

Gloss

Just my luck, non in stock at present but we will get there, car still driveable just getting a shudder at 50-60. You would think that all the shafts / bearings are the same circumference 2008 - 15 wouldn't you Regards Peter

Thanks Big John, There are several listed which is a great start I have emailed them for the correct fit to order. Interestingly, even the prop shaft repairers say they cannot get hold of the right item themselves. If it eventually proves good, I will pass on the details to those I have asked to do the refurbishment. Jaguar parts dept wont even provide a part number for it and obviously don't sell it as a separate item. Thanks a lot, I will let you know how I get on. Regards Peter

Have you tried here: https://www.euspares.co.uk/parts-catalog/propeller-shaft-bearing-10939/jaguar/xf/xf-j05-cc9

I am in the process of removing the A pillar inside trim on my 2011 XK, left hand drive model. After researching the process to remove the trim it seems that it should simply pop or pry off if necessary. The bottom of the trim seems to be loose but the top absolutely will not release. My car also has the microphone mounted near the top of the trim panel. Is the microphone attached such that it is keeping the trim from releasing? The microphone has two rivets attaching the back to something behind the trim. It looks like I may need to drill out the rivets to release the microphone and the trim. I wonder if anyone has experienced the same problem. Thanks in advance!

You’re welcome, Paul. If you intend to remove the battery then always the negative first.

Thanks again Jim for your helpful advice. By the way, do i remove the neg or pos lead from the battery?