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I was born in Poland hence S100 bring back many memories as it is somehow similar to what I used to see on the road on a daily basis. Although I never owned one, my father used to drive Fiat 125p and later on FSO Polonez Caro which was hell of a clunker. The comparison to the Tacoma narrows bridge seems to be spot on to what I am experiencing! There is a high chance you are right with the propshaft. I will have it checked too and will post the outcome in case anyone else had something similar in the future. Hopefully it will not end up on a whole propshaft replacement...

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Hi Paul, With your car there is no problem with disconnecting the battery as you don’t have the BMS (battery monitoring system) fitted. I have the icarsoft i930 for mine which is perfect for what I want and it will tell you which sensor is at fault. If you go the icarsoft route then make sure you buy from a reputable source and it is Jaguar specific.

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Morning Jim, Thanks for your comment and video, looks like a pretty straight forward task to change those 2 sensors if that's the problem. Can you recommend the brand of code reader i should buy for my model which is a 2006 X150 4.2? Also, is it really neccessary to disconnect the battery? iv'e heard comment that doing that can cause more trouble!

First time I have heard anyone describe a Skoda S100 as lovely to drive 🙂 It was 988cc with a mighty 42bhp! Incredibly tail happy as the rear swing arms simply "tuck under" when cornering, HOWEVER you could fix it with a set of spanners. From your description I would be focusing on prop shaft and particulalry the UJs. Everything else is fixed, even if through rubber bushes, so should not be able to move without it being detectable at rest with a pry bar. If the Propshaft joints have even a little play they could vibrate and resonate like the tacoma narrows bridge (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tacoma_Narrows_Bridge_(1940)) which sounds like what you are experiencing to me. Also that vibration could well have "bent" something to account for your suspension settings. Good luck John

About 90 miles ago (after a 30 mile motorway dash) the red warning light shaped like an engine came on and stayed on , i.e. "engine/transmission emissions issue" . Had a diagnostic this morning ... nox sensor and injector need replacing! But - after being on continuously for 3 days/90 miles the light didn't come on when I started up this afternoon and has stayed off throughout an hours drive ... ??!! Any ideas/similar experience please? Thanks in advance

I can relate. Used to have Seat Ibiza FL2 1.9 SDI 2000, which at some point gave up and the driver side wishbone just turned into dust while driving, luckily at low speed. At least it was a straight forward - no symptoms then one day, whole car just collapsed on one side. Skoda S100 seems like a lovely car to drive, could not imagine it being a beast 😄 What engine was it? The Jag even though I have that issue for a while, don't want to give up (which is a possitive, I guess!) Yes, multiple times and no crabbing spotted. It is more vertical than horizontal. As if the gas in the shocks is gone or if there was a play in the wishbone bushings. Yet all mechanics claim suspension is in good condition. It has to be something clearly not visible at the first glance. As both rear cambers are out of alignment, one mechanic is pointing towards differential or propshaft. Those might be expensive to repair, hence I want to be sure as much as possible before spending even more money. ...and yes, it was scary at first when the whole body started vibrating on the motorway (rear wheels felt like going up and down constantly even though road was smooth) and it felt like sitting in a helicopter with a spinning washing machine at the back. But nobody found an issue, I could not figure it out either so just kept diagnosing it and still commuting to work, I am still alive so... I am just worried about the stress on all the components and trying to figure out what the heck is happening here.

Have a leak coming from lower reservoir tank. This has happened 4 years ago. To buy a new tank isnt expensive but the labour charge is. My question is why do you need this additional tank. Why cant the pipes from expansion tank be enough. Sorry if this is a silly question but im not a mechanic.

.... OK so not just the 20" wheels then 🙂 That sounds like a nightmare. The shaking reminds me of my first car: A Skoda S100 rear engined beast with swing axle rear suspension that tried killing me on several occasions! One of which was due to a worn steering box where there was enough play to allow the front wheels to vibrate from side to side which did feel like the car was shaking itself to pieces. My problem is that yours passed the MOT which should have ruled out any loose parts. Have you had somebody drive behind you to check if there is any crabbing?

Hi John, I bought it already on 20's and everything was fine for two years. As swapping alloys and tyres gave me little to none difference in the ride quality I crossed those two things out of the list, but I will try to get some summer tyres for the 18's or to get someone with 19's and put them in and report back here. All the issues started around 125k miles mark and in that time I remember only thing being reported by the mechanics were front forward lower wishbones so called banana arms which apparently were never replaced by the previous owner. They have not seen any issues with upper wishbones, however now I am thinking about it, I feel like that might be my issue. To clarify: Some time ago I started hearing all the plastic trims inside of the cabin rattling more often. I also observed wobble of the passenger seat from time to time. At some point while commuting to work on M25, whole body was vibrating (when driving on cruise control). That was happening on a daily basis, different parts of the motorway, different speeds as long as it was on constant speed. Remedy was to switch lanes and slow down a bit then speed up and the vibration was gone. It felt for a few seconds like the back of the car is about to blow up, literally 😄 Like a massive subwoofer/washing machine about to explode. That issue lasted for a few months (meanwhile nobody could diagnose it properly) so driving like a lunatic was a temp workaround. Steering wheel is slightly vibrating while on motorway, the faster I go, the more noticeable are the vibrations. Any imperfection in the road or even a small bump feels bumpy - ride is rough. Can feel it through steering wheel, can hear it as the passenger seat wobble and all the plastic trims rattle. Literally feels like car is about to fall to pieces. Please note - there is no issue when driving on a smooth surface, car act normal. I wouldn't say the whole car is wandering. I have a feeling that once I go through small bump, the back of the car keeps vibrating for few seconds then settle... or at least that's the feeling I get. Whatever that is, has to be related to the rear of the car. There are no cracks or leaks on the shocks, though I do believe those were never replaced as most of the suspension. Now, after few months going back and forth with no proper fix, the vibration of whole body while on cruise control seem to be mostly gone by itself (does not happen that often), but the rest of the symptoms remain (steering wheel vibrate (the quicker I go, the more noticeable), bumpy ride, feeling every single road imperfection, plastic trim rattle, passenger seat wobble, back of the car feels more bumpy then front) and ride quality is far from what it was when I bought it. One mechanic thought it is a front passenger wheel hub but that did not solved it. Another blamed tyres and/or alloys, same result. Now another one is suspecting differential or any of the remaining wheel hubs. While I am personally pointing towards 1. Shocks 2. CV Joints 3. Upper wishbones hence I am preparing my wallet to send the car to Jag Spec in Doncaster and ask them to check it all while get the gearbox service, differential service and type B service done. Previous owner was replacing parts when the main dealer told him to. Many parts are sitting there since car came out from factory. Funny enough, the car passed the MOT with no advisories, I already went to few mechanics and nobody see an issue even though it came out poorly on wheel alignment (I am attaching copy of last one that I did). I would like to mantain it and keep it for as long as possible, yet that one is baffling me big time.

Thanks Gents, literally just found the hose I needed at a dealership in Ireland. Managed to find someone with access to Jaguar stock list. Apparently I managed to snag the only one in the UK. I did consider the custom hose route, that was going to be my next move if Jaguar couldn't supply them. All back on the road now.

Thanks, Jim. I haven't seen a function to allow me to have the rear view camera on without reverse being seleected but I will investigate further. The 2016 model doesn't normally suffer from the boot wiring issue of the earlier models but I must admit that the wiring was my initial thought. My local garage are pretty good on electrical issues and they tell me that they have encountered many issues with JLR cameras.

I remember seeing that on show in the Uni many years ago

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We have a one sided display of a Jaguar XJ-X350 on castors that is free to anyone wishing to organise transport

Isn't there a function in the Touchscreen that allows you to have the rear view camera on without reverse being selected? There is on other JLR branded vehicles. I would be reluctant to dive into changing the actual camera, when nothing is hard and fast about the fault and my thinking would still be on the wiring where it transfers from the body to the boot lid, which is a known weak point. If you can bring up the camera through the Touchscreen and drive with it on the display for a few miles, you may see if it glitches out - or not. With the camera on the display and the vehicle stationary, try opening and closing the boot lid several times whilst someone watches the display. This may confirm the boot lid wiring one way or other. N6 JMX

I have also been considering some nice braided ones, (like my XJRR has). After 5 years XF ones are already looking rusty. Don't want to be changing them every 5 years!

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Thank you John.

As shown in the video, no specialist tools required to change the sensors. You can always disconnect the battery to be completely safe.

The rear view camera has developed an intermittent fault which can often by cured by opening and closing the boot. I thought this indicated a wiring issue but my local garage checked the wiring and they believe the problem may be the camera itself. They cannot guarantee this and, as a replacement camera is £302 + VAT + a fitting charge, replacement might be an expensive gamble! Often, when starting the car and selecting reverse gear, the rear view image judders but quickly settles to a sound image. Yesterday, I started the car and the camera fault occurred. No rear view image. I drove about 10 miles with the fault icon registering on the instument panel. I stopped and turned the engine off. On restarting the camera worked fine! Has anyone else encountered such a problem? Is there a camera repairer out there?

Hi Paul, depending on what a code reader shows up and your skill level, work on the pedestrian system should be left to the experts as it is an "explosive" system and needs specialist tools / knowledge. N6 JMX

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