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Sorry if this has been done before. I have a xf 3ltr v6 lux diesel 2012. I’m told I can’t take the battery off the car to charge and need a ctek charger. Can anyone please tell me how to charge my battery and what the process is please. I have a standard battery charger already.

@abiltcliffe, what was the outcome after all? I have an XF-S X250 2009 and I have exactly same issue now and it makes me mad! Like you I decided to leave it for a while and wait until it get bad so finally could tell what is the issue, yet that does not happened. So far I have been at Grange Barnet where they did full car check and replaced anything that needed to be replaced (it was in 2022), then in 2023 replaced front wishbones. 2023/2024 replaced all tyres, alloys (twice - 1 set of 18's with winter tyres just for a try, then new 20's with summer Michelin Pilot Sport 5 brand new tyres). Wheel balance done each time on Elite Hunter machine. Last month I had replaced front passenger wheel hub as it was marked by Independent as faulty. Car has 135k miles on the clock. Been to Jaguar Grange, two Independent Specs, two ATS's - none of which see an issue with suspension. Recently did allignment check and the rear cambers are slightly out of the limit (negative values). Yet apparently there is no setting on them and if those are out of limit, it points towards suspension - which once again, nobody see an issue with! It literally drive me nuts as the car is wobbly/bouncy. It is not related to speed but the road quality. Even at slow speeds, when there is uneven road I can feel it all bumpy. On motorway if I drive with constant speed, the vibration can develop from time to time. All the mechanics give me "maybe" guesses and all are rather expensive - propshaft, driveshaft, differential, any other wheel hub. But no one can pin point where the issue really is. I am tired of replacing part by part and seeing no results.

Morning Arnie, Try these people, they have great products that should match your car by entering the Reg# car. https://touchuppaintfactory.co.uk/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw57exBhAsEiwAaIxaZucQFijE5P4Ga6SUmO9j3U3l1rsoQ4syP1V5RUa0s4DZj95tM2VoBxoCNaMQAvD_BwE

Hi, I have just purchased my first Jaguar, it's a 2014 XF 3.0 S Portfolio Sportbrake, there are a few scrapes on the alloys so I would like some spray paint, could someone point me in the right direction, I have tried researching but there only seems to be the small touch up paint available. Any advice greatly appreciated. Cheers, Arnie.

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Hello, Is anyone interested in buying 2 Jaguar XJ8 catalytic converters Part numbers: NNG 6700AA NNG 6701AA

You should be able to see the coolant in the coolant expansion tank Tony, no tube should be on it. I'll try and get a photo of mine tomorrow - my coolant is orange, i believe they changed coolant requirements over the course of production and different colours were used but i don't think pink was one of them.

Hi Dave. I've just shone a torch down the coolant filler tank tube after removing the cap and I can see at the bottom of the tube the usual pinkish coolant. Surely with coolant loss I'd not see anything, or is this simply how the tube is designed in some way? Tony.

Aftermarket maybe? Don't think my 2001 has such a thing.

Hi I'm looking to do CCF edits. Any recomendation on what and where to buy? Thanks

Good question. I've used an Autel AP200 white so far. Annoyingly it doesn't list the 2.0 petrol engine, but when I select diesel most things seam to work. I would like one to change configuration options (CCF file)

Thanks for the Picture Simon. Mine came without a wheel chock. I happen to have a LR one that looked the same but couldn't get it to fit, until I saw your picture with the chock sticking out of the foam. I see from ebay that an after market company are selling spare wheel kits these days. Called RoadHero

Lovely Dave, many thanks, Tony

It sounds to me that the DCCV (heater) valve is working as it should Tony. I'd sort the top hose, get the coolant level where it should be and repeatedly check it for at least 7-10 days while cold and top up to the level if necessary. Because of the design of the system, it can take several days of shorter trips to get the coolant level to stabilise. I'd also suggest a new expansion tank cap, as linked to above.

Hi Dave, thanks again for all your points of suggestion. So to recap, while I do need a top hose 100%, can I know if in your experience / knowledge and understanding of the rough timing of events i.e. heater blower blowing warm air then cooler air (on same (warm) heater / air con panel settings) prior to yesterdays overheating incident, that I do not need to change the heater valve and that this purely coincidental? Would you change it? Thanks, Tony.

Maybe Tony, it depends how badly blocked it is. It could also be that you've lost a lot of the cooling vanes between the radiator runners (that go between top and bottom tanks) which would reduce the ability to cool. Gentle driving at moderate speeds would reduce the need for cooling but going up a lot of hills, being stuck in traffic or motorway use would increase the cooling needs. Before you shell out on a new rad, i'd suggest getting a compression test done and also a cooling system pressure test. If you can find someone that can flow test the rad as well then so much the better. It could be you were just unlucky with the top hose and the relief valve blew on the new one (i assume it was brand new?) because of insufficient coolant and an airlock becoming pressurised to the point where it popped the valve.

Hi Dave, thank you for all this advice. I'm sure I need a new top radiator hose fitted before anything else as the casing "valve" stem round cap has popped and floats more or less in situ. I've found eBay item number:116062910765. Just a small point re what you say about the radiator maybe leaking or blocked, would this scenario have shown up earlier in the 150 or so miles I've driven since my garage fitted my replacement top hose, tested and filled with coolant. Or as with the unpredictability of cars taken its time to produce a repeat of the first coolant saga with the previous owner? Thanks, Tony.

You're low on coolant, did you top it up after the first episode? No, it doesn't work that way. As i pointed out a bit further up, the system is designed so you can use or not use the heater and it doesn't alter the engien cooling at all. At the risk of making a snap diagnosis, i'd suggest the main radiator is either blocked or leaking if the head gaskets have been ruled out. Also worth trying the radiator expansion tank cap. I had a similar thing with mine where the coolant would be at the right level but the heater was blowing cold, it turned out the cap had gone weak so was allowing coolant to escape when it shouldn't which created airlocks. Because the heater matrix is so high on the S Type, that's where airlocks show up first. Worth trying one and topping the coolant up to the cold mark before you use the car each day to see if it's as simple as that : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403748795978 If nothing else, it will eliminate that as a possible source of coolant loss.

If the heater valve fails to open / fully open might this create an overheating scenario?

Hi Dave, journey was about 2 miles, park up, restart normally and temp gauge slowly passed halfway. I switched engine of in delayed traffic queue. Restarted and with next half mile gauge went into red and into fail safe mode. I was able to reset all 3 codes that allowed to drive normally and safely about further half mile home. Checked to hose and the value has popped with coolant splash. Driving all the time with blower temp set high but with coldish air. Like it for the last 30-40 miles that why I wonder if the heater valve is/has failed. It seems so coincidental being linked. Thanks, Tony.

I have a probable fault in mind Tony but can you tell me, during your journey today, was it longer than the other journeys and did it involve motorway work and/or extended town work? The heatr valve simply opens up to allow hot coolant to flow to the heater matrix, the system is designed so that if cold is selcted, the heater valve is powered to close and the system runs as normal, regardless of the position of the heater valve.

Rock

I hope this reaches the correct destination, but apologies if it misses the mark. Hi everyone. I'm reaching out for hopefully some useful info to help direct my garage to fixing an overheating problem on my 2001 (51MY) S type. Its a 3.0 V6 SE. The background. Bought car with an overheating event. Sellers garage indicated no head gasket issue but the radiator top hose valve had popped. Seller did not want any further costs so sold car. I had my garage replace the top hose, pressure test cooling system. Hose changed and car static tested running for 1 hour or so to settled running condition. Original fault codes P1299 and P1285 both reset. Car has been driven for 150 ish miles since this repair with no issues. Then today temp gauge rose over half way and further and shortly after the car went into fail safe mode. The radiator top hose valve has popped on the new radiator top hose like previous. Codes P1285, P1299 & P0133 revealed and reset and with only short distance I confidently drove home. Prior to second over heating the heater blower had been blowing warm air but for the my last 30 miles or so blowing much cooler air. So any suggestions welcome. Might the heater valve failed and be causing the radiator hose to pop? Many thanks for your time and help, Tony. I'll answer any questions if asked or try to. Thank you cat owners.

Blackpool

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