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Hi Ian Have you tried custom made hoses such as: https://racingcult.co.uk/products/custom-pre-made-brake-hose.html?sku=&srsltid=AfmBOopNKzZix-m3pfOXb97jpR9byU5McB9JxiZxdlQ_xQq1HzEAz3_idmo Good luck John

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Hi Paul, A code reader will tell you exactly which part of the system is flagging the fault. Usually it will be one of the 2 impact sensors at the front of the car. On your car, both can be changed from the top without having to remove the nose cone. This will help;

Evening All, Car owned for two and half years with no messages on dash, all good however just recently i have a red triangle randomly flashing up on dash with "Check Pedestrian System" I never hit any pedestrians, honest! Any suggestions where i should start with trying to fix this myself would be much appreciated, Thanks Paul.

....Looks like it is same process as in XF 🙂 Setup should take you to the appropriate security settings to enable just the perimeter alarm when on a ferry. PDF.js viewer.pdf

Hi Ray Not sure on the F Type but certainly can in the XF. It is an option in settings to disable the internal sensors. It automatically resets following the next start-up. It should be in your manual somewhere 🙂 John

On ferry crossing the channel last year. I received a text that my F Type alarm had been triggered. I called the help desk and a very pleasant lady reset the alarm enabling us to continue our journey. I'm wondering if the slight motion of the ship may have set the alarm off Could I prevent that happening again by just single locking the car ??

Hi Karol Only suggestion I can make is have you thought it might just be due to having 20" wheels? I know you have tried 18" but those were with winter tyres. I have 19" wheels on my 2013 Sportbrake and recently went to Northern Ireland in it, with brand new Bridgestone Turanza 6 all seasons all round. I had to stop twice and check I didn't have a puncture as the road surface locally was clearly different to those in NW England and I felt I could feel every imperfection in the road 😞 I am sure the narrower side-walls on 20" wheels would only have exacerbated the issue. Is there anyway you could try a set of 18" wheels with decent summer tyres? Also could you clarify the problem? Feeling bumps: do you mean through the body - Front / back / steering? Any accomanying noises? Also I would understand wobble as a clear side to side shake, is that what you mean? Can you reliably repeat the issue by repeating a journey over a section of road at the same speed? Good Luck John

cob

Like I have mentioned, I tried three different sets of alloys and three different sets of tyres. Each set was balanced, tyres were also checked. One set of alloys was bent but replacing it with a perfectly round set did not change the drive feel. I had Dunlop's, Pirelli's and now Michelin's. Every single time there is no difference and car is still bumpy and wobbly. My bet is on the shocks yet the Specialists (I visited two plus two/three other garages), claim everything is OK with suspension. I am tired of replacing part by part with no improvement. Alloys and Tyres were tested on a different Jag XF and there was no issue, hence I am still convinced it is something with the suspension.

Thanks Jim, forgot about the Halfords colour match system, I have found a local specialist who would refurbish the wheels, just about to find out how much he charges, he comes highly recommended and would also do the wheels at your home if needed. Many thanks again for your advice.

Hi Arnie, places like Halfords have a colour match service so you could try there. They check the wheels, mix up a can of paint and hey presto. Alternatively, your local friendly body shop can do the same, but more expensive. Final option would be to search out the local franchise near you for someone like "The Wheel Specialist" who can professionally refinish your wheels quite cost effectively. Especially if the wheels are silver all over. N6 JMX

Check out the Furniture Clinic, who seem to have a fix for just about everything. https://www.furnitureclinic.co.uk/wood-care-products/wood-repair-products N6 JMX

Hi Fred Never tried it but I think I would try a glass crack repair liquid which uses surface tension to "suck" the resin along the crack. One I found on a very quick search was this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404719739646?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oe2eecklsqg&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=LpZ0osbLSWC&widget_ver=artemis&media=WHATS_APP John

I have spotted a small crack in the wood trim on my 2019 XJL driver's door. What are the options to repair it other than trying to source a new part. I understand they are not being manufactured and are very hard to match. I'm looking for an epoxy or glue solution that won't spoil the rest of the surface. Thank you.

I have a small crack in the wood trim on the driver's door (under the M in Meridian). I think it's the plastic covering. How do I fill in the crack and keep it from spreading?

Hi Dave, thank you for being good enough to take time to take and send these pics. After the weekend settling of the overheating event I have decided to purchase a new top hose and heater control valve and have them fitted. I shall be putting forward to my guardian angel a compression test done and also a cooling system pressure test. Also if possible flow test the rad as well. I think this is the best way forward for now. I've also bought a new radiator expansion tank cap. Thanks again for all you help, regards, Tony.

Here you are Tony, a day late but unexpected things happened yesterday! You can just see the level of the coolant there, easier to see with the access panel lifted off : In that one, you can see the coolant is level with the seam between the top and bottom halves of the expansion tank, this is the MIN cold level.

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Many thanks Paul, but it's the paint for the wheels I'm looking for, the car paint is excellent. Cheers.

Hi "You can connect direct to the battery terminals" Just a slight correction to above. My understanding is that you should NOT connect directly to the -ve earth terminal on the battery itself, but to a good body earth point. I use the spare wheel mount. The Battery Monitoring Module sits on the -ve battery connector and so if the charge current by-passes it rather than flowing through it gets confused as too how much charge the battery has 🙂 Jim is spot on saying you will need an AGM compatible charger. I use the CT5 START/STOP and have a CTek extension which runs into the boot above all of the floor covers so I can just "plug and play". IMHO it is worth doing a regular top-up charge as these are VERY battery hungry cars. John