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climate control hot

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MY stype diesel on an 04 plate with 77000 miles on the clock,has started blowing out warm air from the vents at whatever temp it is set at,

            I have had air con regassed  and compressor is working but it has made no difference 

I conclude therefore I have a non working motor or flap problem.

Anybody got some ideas of likely culprit and or costs of putting right at a garage.(gulp).

 

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Just had mine done, it was blowing hot air through drivers vents no matter what but cooler through passenger vents. It had climate control valve replaced not sure it they had to do a repair on circuit board behind control panel. But the garage was saying £400ish but I wasn't bothered as the dealer I bought of was footing the bill. Also I've seen it being a common problem the wires connecting into the climate control valve disintegrate. Might be worth checking wires it's. Phil

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Hi Colin had this last month turned out to be 3 broken wires going from loom in front bumper to dcc valve,all good now.

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Most likely the DCCV or associated wires which plug into it. DO NOT CONTINUE TO RUN CAR WITH FAULT as it can damage climate control unit, very expensive.

 

If you do your own repairs, the DCCV is located just behind the drivers side fog lamp, accessible from underneath and removing the underside bumper cover. either sticky valve or broken wires. (The wires may look intact but a gentle tug and the insulation will just fall apart.

 

It the valve needs replacing, disconnect from pipes and stick old wine corks into open end of pipes to stop  coolant leaking everywhere then reconnect new valve. 

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Thanks for replies.

Will have a look as soon as I get my arm back on operation ( ladder-guttering-fall-%$£&-ouch).

Unless i can get my friend to look at it.

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Apparently upon testing dccv shorted out. and ccm toast. can you get ccm,s reconditioned?.

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Hi Colin,

I too am currently having an issue with my climate control system. In my case the drivers side would always blow hot air whilst the passenger side is tepid. I had the a/c re-gassed anyway with only slight improvement on passenger side and no improvement on driver's side. Concluded that either the heater valve or CC electronics faulty. Removed DCCV (surprised how little coolant escaped, to the extent that I got my money back on the antifreeze I bought in advance). Did some research and found that normal operation is that each solenoid should draw less than 1 Amp. Tested DCCV solenoids for resistance. Passenger side 12 ohms (a bit low), drivers side 9 ohms (too low). Bought new valve on net for £79, arrived next day. Before fitting, measured the resistance of new solenoids and both were 15 Ohms, confirming a problem with old valve. Fitted new valve. Result was that passenger side greatly improved but drivers side still the same. Conclusion is that old passenger side valve was partially closing and with new valve fully closing hence big improvement. Driver's side old valve not functioning at all and still not with new valve. Having previously confirmed that the wiring was ok, concluded that CCM electronics for drivers side burnt out by old valve drawing too much current hence not controlling solenoid on new valve. Further research suggests this is a common effect when continuing to drive with a faulty valve. This is because the fuse protecting the circuit is some 10A (as it has other circuits assigned to it) and no internal protection exists in the CCM (poor design). Also found out that in most cases the damage is a burnt pcb track rather than the drive transistor. So could be easy to fix. As I put my back out replacing the DCCV a few days ago, this is as far as I've got. I have spent time since however designing a simple current limiter that I intend to incorporate into each solenoid driver in the pcb as I don't intend to risk damage (or even worse a fire) again. In the mean time I simply put a hose clamp on the drivers side heater hose to emulate valve closure and this works really well. So until I fix the CCM I do at least have full temp control on passenger side and no hot air on driver side. I hope this information helps you or others.

Regards, Dennis.

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Am sorry about not replying to peoples help earlier, but have been very busy sorting out family members who have been and indeed are rather ill.and running my business

(running about in a 1.2 skoda fabia hasn`t been the same)!!!

I had to let my local garage sort out problem for me, due to above problems.

needed new new dccv and sent control unit off to Swansea for repair.

Came back fine ,except garage hasn,t refilled  air-con gas .(trip to kwik fit or somewhere) as soon as I get time.

 

Glad to be back in jag.!!!

 

 

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Is it this you need?

Phil, The fact you have it in your sittingroom and not in your car i take it you don't need it? Is it for sale and in full working order? Mine is working apart from the fact the lower LCD display doesn't illuminate and I'm considering replacing it.

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Hi Harv. I'm selling this mainly if anybody needs climate mod. If your on about the window on audio part not lighting up this one doesn't. To be honest I'm not sure if they do? I've been in a number of stypes and none have been lit up, also my mates x type is same. Cheers phil

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@ Colin, Can I ask you which outfit in Swansea you used to fix CCM (and whether they added over-current protection)?

@ Phil, You put your spare CCM on the sofa! Wish I could get away with that.

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ecusolution@virginmedia.com

 

ecu solutionswales=07837934188

 

 

www.ecusolutionswales.com.

 

Seemed to know what they were doing.

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@ Colin, many thanks for that info, I will look them up.

@Phil, I meant that my other half wouldn't stand for it having car bits on the sofa. Soon I will be moving house and the new place has got a perfect 'man-cave' attached to the garage which I can't wait to kit out and have as many parts lying around as I like.

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now I am getting frustrated.

I have taken my jag for a good run out,the first time since I  got it back

when car up to temp, I swith on heater control and get hot air for apx 10 seconds ,it then goes down to the ambient temp.

Even with the visual settings to low.

the air con isn't getting cold at all.

ccv has been replaced and dccv  repaired.   ideas?

air-con out of gas?

sticking valve in new ccv?

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Colin, I understood from an earlier posting you had the car returned to you and all is fine except the garage did not replace air con gas. I presume you got this done? But, even so, why did the garage have any need to touch the air con system for a DCCV fault? I say this because, as I understand it, the DCCV does not actually have any connection to the air con system. It simply controls the heater matrix, whether to allow coolant to the heater or not, depending on temperature selection.

If we are to assume that the air con system is ok then there still exist a problem with controlling the heater valve. When working normally, the DCCV is NOT energised to give heat and conversely, energised to stop heat .So if you can't stop heating coming through then either the wiring to the DCCV is faulty or, the DCCV itself (unlikely as just been replaced) or the CCM is not working (unlikely if just repaired). The only other possibility is the +12V supply to the valves if say the 10A fuse is blown (perhaps from previous fault). I believe the fuse supplies other circuits so you may have to investigate what the other circuits do in order to look for further symptoms. Hope this helps. regards.

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Hi Colin as I mentioned earlier I had this problem, new dccv fitted and then had 3 broken wires going to it.

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Car back and now working.9except for new problem-see new post)

The solution was a broken wire to dccv ,

When mechanic finished repair and tested same, the garage tells me it worked correctly,

The wire must have parted company along its length sometime after re-fitting due to it being brittle .

Lovely cold air ,,,,,again.!

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