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I enjoy looking in the members gallery and encourage other JOC members to post photos of their Jag, I thought a thread of Front Ends would be good to see, with a little detail if you wish. Here’s my XF which I purchased in October 2023.

a front end shot from earlier this year 😀 tows the caravan beautifully

...and my pair.... I've had the Sportbrake for 6 years and the X-Type for 12 months. It still has under 27k on the clock, serviced every 12 months and an interior like new. It even had the previous owners leather driving gloves in the glove box along with a bag of Werthers 🙂 It now has new sills and is fully Lanoguarded underneath. Failed 2 MOTs in its life, once for headlight aim and once for sills in 2017. Currently working on the original wheels but got some refurbed X-Triple 5 on at the moment with Goodyear Vector 3 all seasons.

Nice one Ian! This is my XK8. I've only had her for about 3 months. Endless grin!!

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX

I have great news S type jaguar 3.0 2001 Y554BPA coolant tank, fitted today no longer waiting for part jaguar has got this coolant tank in stock.

Hi Sheela, With an 8 year old battery it is simply waiting to fail. These modern cars have so many electronics going on in the background that the quiescent battery drain can be quite high and a car like yours left to sit around for a week or so will have a low battery - even when the battery is relatively new. The recommendation is typically to replace the battery in a Modern Jaguar at 5 years. If I were in your position, I would be looking for a new battery replacement and ensure you get a premium battery for a premium car, AND from a reliable supplier. There have been a number of reports of batteries failing after only a few months, so you want the back-up of a premium supplier for a no quibble exchange. Note that if you plan to change the battery yourself, then the car's ECU needs to be "informed" via a Jaguar diagnostics system that a new battery is in place in order that it can reset the charging rates, N6 JMX

A fantastic period piece featuring the iconic E-Type Jaguar (well what else are you going to use in a road movie). This fantastic film produced by Pirelli using an e-type (XKE) Jaguar to demonstrate their range of Cinturato Tires. By the time this film was made the Pirelli Cinturato range had already been available for over a decade.Pirelli’s Cinturato range of tires dramatically changed people’s perception of how good tires could be. They improved the handling of cars like an e-type Jaguar, when fitted with these progressive sports car tires. https://www.cinturato.net/tortoise-and-hare.html?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAAR2gKn11c8-xaXDe3CsA4XlIcw6wMfdGqFki-z6VEGXrpr_u8USMJdKjVm8_aem_qOpi8lKqwyFk5IjgbhXVWw

Here's one of mine on the original plates :

Sounds like a busy week

Nice to have met you too. Glad we managed to park in the shade.🙂 Hope you had a good journey back tp Norfolk. Safe motoring.

Hi Ian Yes here she is, now I've got original wheels taking up space in my bedroom. It makes getting up in the dark very tricky.

And that is why the insurance company have said it is a total loss. Remember, the selling price includes the sellers profit, your insurance company will not want to pay anything to the sellers profit margin.

Thanks for the information it's appreciated. It is the middle module the one in the footwear drivers side. I have obtained the SDD and am in the process of reprogramming it to the car, I had the old one cleared byMuggles in Lincoln, so far so good

No problem, don't get me wrong, you can find many of these engines without any issues, but I think more often than not, they are problematic. until 2019 when they finally fixed the issues

Psst, get an XF! 🤣🤣🤣 Welcome to the forum 👍

Now then, now then, jingle jangle chrome. 😁

woodchuck ---another name for Groundhog ???

Only problem is, if the adjust are original, buy the time it get to you in the post, ods are they will be broke aswell.

Hi If you want to do a Proper job, not a Bodge Job, then you can buy the adjusters off ebay, the normal S-type adjusters will do, as theres only one that breaks in each headlight and that the same in the normal headlights. but you do have to take the headlight off and split them, does not take that long did mine in a few hours. lots of videos on youtube on how to split the lights, but if you put them in the oven for 10 minutes on about 90 Deg C, it softens the black sealant, its like blutac but black, makes it go soft and the lenses come off quite easy done a few of them and its not bad, the only thing you must remember, is to disconnect the battery before unplugging the headlights, or your self leveling lights will stop working and can only be reset with software like jaguar ids/sdd or a tool like icarsoft LR V2 cheers Joe

I've had a car that has drained a battery quickly in the past, due to a faulty earth connection. Could this be a cause here? Disconnect the earth and clean throughly before reconnecting.

Just call me "four Jags" Cadwell. Have finally found a car I have always wanted and loved. It's a 2005 S-Type R variant. The big brute with a "proper" V8 and supercharger that still whines and doesn't make any strange noises I know it has a couple of minor faults. One of the headlights is permanently pointing at the ground and there is a bit of interior trim missing on the passenger side A pillar Other than that can't find anything seriously wrong with it and definitely think it's going to be a keeper for an old spanner armed with a hammer So am asking two questions Dear old V8 owners. What have I missed. What is going to go wrong soon or already has and I've not found it yet? What's the going black market rate for a spare kidney? 🙂

Hi Kevin, frustrating isn't it. Have you tried suppliers who work with the international market - like SNG Barrett, they have warehouse facilities in Europe. Alternatively, try further afield for LH drive vehicles, e.g. USA. In some instances, getting the correct part number from the Jaguar Classic website is a good starting point because you can then put that into your search engine and international hits can be found. N6 JMX

I don't know where you are in Europe but a local breaker would be able to fix you up probably off the shelf these days. Make sure it is the same type and that hopefully the adjustment system is OK. Repair kits for this are readily available for about 60 quid. By the way the way you need to remove the front to do the job. M

Thanks for your thoughts. That gap is indeed making me think long an hard about the car, especially the first gap where significant miles were covered over a three year period before the oil was changed again. I'm hoping the previous owner (luckily there has only been one) is willing to have a conversation and may well through some light on why those years were skipped. I appreciate that the services aren't cheap, but if spend that amount of money to buy the car new in the first place, you would hope that £400 - £600 isn't too much of an issue. I'm grateful for the other tips, I certainly didn't check the battery but will now. The brakes look okay and it's shod with Pirelli P Zero tyres all round; I do need to check their age though - thanks for the Kwik Fit link, I'll take a look at that. So, I will remain as pragmatic and as unattached as I can, and they are indeed fantastic machines. Thanks again for your thoughts, and yes, I am thinking long and hard!

Hi Andy We need quite a bit more info to offer any help. Year, Engine, Price, Mileage, What do you mean by "Breathing really heavily", Have you read any error codes, Any warning lights, etc etc? Regards John

Hi Dawn https://www.oxforddiecast.co.uk/products/jaguar-xe-bluefire-76jxe002 Enjoy 🙂 John

Hi All, Just got my first Jaaaag, and looking forward to being a part of the owners club community. Got a few issues with the car I'm trying to get sorted at the moment. Horn and Windscreen washer - both potential MOT failures which is due in about 3 weeks.

For me Ian, Saturday is preferable. Obviously i can't speak for the others and i'll go with the consensus.

You could say that for sure 😂 mind you given the job I’m glad it happened now and not when we’re away somewhere.

Thanks for the update Ian and sorry to hear about your employment situation. Looking forward to the meet and i'm hoping my situation should calm down in about 6 weeks so will hopefully be able to attend.

I can't speak for the others Ian but i don't do anti-social media so won't be seeing any meets on there. If the others are the same as me, i daresay we'll all be patient until you've got something organised.

Hi Terry, obviously this should not be happening to a 2013 era car, but it depends on what, if anything, the offending areas have been subjected to in the past. Do not use any solvent type cleaners, but try an internal detailer fluid, such as Meguiar's, to see what can be cleaned up. Do not spray the detailer direct onto the steering wheel surfaces, but onto a microfibre cloth and then work the solution into the cloth before tackling the control thumb wheels on the steering wheel. Work the areas around the controls and then wipe clean using a dry / clean microfibre cloth. If the Meguiar's doesn't do the trick, mix up a weak solution of lukewarm water and washing up liquid. Again using a microfibre cloth, soak it in the prepared solution and wring it out thoroughly until the cloth is just moist / damp, once again work the cloth over the controls and then dry with a second cloth, or a hairdryer if you have gotten the area a bit too wet. N6 JMX

I named my 2019 XJL "Tata" as in "See you later." New to me a month ago. 😁

Quick update. Still waiting for the ombudsman to rule on the £500 untraceable driver email. My car was advertised and sold on 'Copart' salvage auctions as a category 'N' (non structural) write off. There were no pictures on their website showing the damage to the inner sill and rear wheel / suspension. I will wait and see if it turns up for sale on Autotrader or Ebay ! For anyone that's interested, I have decided to replace it with a 2010 XFR that my friend is selling.

I would suggest that what you have is a normal XK that has had the XK60 bodykit fitted at a later stage (unless you have owned the car from new) The X150 version of the XK appeared in showrooms in March / April 2006, the press cars were late 2005 as far as I can remember. The bodykit fitted to the 2008 XK60 'special edition' was available to buy as a dealer fit accessory to 'retro fit' onto any 4.2 XK. If you let me have the last 6 digits of your chassis number, I can run the car through our system at work to find out the original build spec and designation ?