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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX

I have great news S type jaguar 3.0 2001 Y554BPA coolant tank, fitted today no longer waiting for part jaguar has got this coolant tank in stock.

I'd have a look online in your home area (it says non-UK so no idea where in the world you are) and find a Dexron VI compatible fluid and use that, especially if you plan on periodic part-changes or full changes to maintain it. A quick search revealed that Pentosil #1 is a "life-time fluid" so is likely to be more expensive and won't necessarily last the life of your box. I'd prefer to do a part-change once a year or so to maintain the fluid than use a "lifetime fluid" that maybe breaks down and kills my gearbox. Each to their own though.......

Jimbov you are an absolute star! the first few mins of the video show exactly what I wanted. It even had a little tip to stop damage to the chrome on the plastic next to it. Thank you I just wasn't sure anyone would answer such a random question never mind such a fabulous accurate close up how to do it. Providing the weather is okay I will change over to a nice new shiny chrome number plate area. It is a new car to me and when I bought it the paintwork on the whole light cluster was a bit rough and really the only item that needed attention. Thanks again Spiderromeo

If the pump does not run then first check the inertia switch hasn’t tripped inadvertently before you go further.

Thanks for the comment. You are absolutely correct. That's why I bought an aluminium-bodied car this time. I have had a varied career, but spent thirty years in the motor industry building cars. I have always had the same intention; it's only now I can afford to buy what I wanted all along. I was in senior management, but not that senior that I could affect what we made. And I am an engineer and know that aluminium is not completely the answer but it is getting nearer. Jim My other cars are a Suzuki Swift Sports (just a day-to-day car but fun) and a track car a fibreglass-bodied, but properly chassisied Porsche 550 Spyder copy, with an Alfa flat four Engine. My general nickname is Spyderromeo

Welcome Rob DJ!!! 🇩🇯

Hi John, better to list your car for sale in the Marketplace section at the bottom of the Forum pages. One more post here and your car disappears off the front page and not many are going to look for a car up for sale in the Technical Model section. N6 JMX

XK8 Key Fobs – A Repair, Sort Of……. Some thoughts, some ramblings, some ideas and one “sort of” solution about the LJA 2610BA XK8 4 Button Key Fob. I’m sure you all know the scenario. You walk up to the car and press the ‘Unlock’ Button and hey presto, nothing happens. You dance around the car, often hopping on one leg, whilst under your breath reciting ‘Abra Cadabra’ ( or some other words which I can’t possibly repeat here ) pressing and holding the button, waving it around the roof and ‘C’ pillars hoping that waving a virtual magic wand cunningly disguised as a Key Fob will actually make it work. The final incantation of ‘Open Sesame ‘ doesn’t work either at which point you give up and return indoors for a stiff drink ( strong coffee, what do you think I meant ? ) whilst you change the batteries for the second time in a week convincing yourself that the recently replaced batteries must have been faulty. Of course they aren’t and you are no further forward other than needing to visit the loo for a comfort break after supping even more coffee. I know that you could have opened the door with the key and listened to the countdown of the Alarm about to unleash all hell on me and the rest of the neighbourhood if I fail to get the key in the ignition in time to prevent this happening or even if I do manage to do this in time the Alarm fails to disarm and then both the Alarm and myself enter panic mode, I have a ( irrational ? ) fear of this, perhaps I’m not alone in this or is it just me that’s paranoid ? Answers to me on a free voucher for the local psychiatrist. The problem is of course wear on the contact pads of the Rubber Buttons, the solution is to replace the Rubber Pad. I’m talking about the four button one, LJA 2610BA and other similar variants, and here lies the rub. Not that many years ago this type of Fob Case complete with new Rubber Pad were readily available on line for about a fiver, now they all seem to made of that wonderful and oft used classic car material called ‘Unobtanium.’ Over the last few years I have travelled the world, virtually of course, and have found absolutely zero, none, zilch, of these available anywhere so what next ? POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS Repair Services. There are plenty of people out there offering repair/refurbishment of your existing Fobs and I assume that this includes repair of the electronics AND replacement of the Rubber Pads and Case. If so where do they obtain these parts ? These services are priced anywhere from £30 to £200, what the difference in prices may indicate I have no idea, but if all you need is the Rubber Pad even the cheapest is a bit steep. Even so if one of these guys are prepared to sell me just the Rubber Pad I may be prepared to pay over the odds to obtain a couple of spares. I haven’t asked any of them so have no idea if any of these repair services would be prepared to do a deal. The other thing I, probably unnecessarily, worry about using a repair service is the reprogramming of the repaired unit. Everyone seems to think that the reprogramming is a simple task that takes just a few minutes of flashing the lights in sequence and this may well be so, but at this point my paranoia rears it’s head again……. Graphite Buttons Graphite buttons are cheap and readily available. The idea is that you get the right size buttons and then glue them over the worn buttons on your Rubber Pads with some contact adhesive and then the job is done. My worry here is that this may be a one shot only job. If the buttons either don’t stick very well or don’t work for some reason then that’s the end, the contact adhesive will have probably ruined whatever was left of the functionality of your existing buttons, however poor they were they are now a darned sight worse. Consequently I haven’t tried this. Modifying Different Rubber Pads I thought I may have cracked it with this idea. I bought a 5 Button Rubber Button Pad for Jaguar X S F TYPE XJ XK XF XKR remote smart key. It looked like with a bit of judicial trimming and some fettling it would fit inside my Fob and the key markings and spacing looked pretty much the same, as indeed they are. Unfortunately the finger pad part of the buttons do not protrude through the Fob, they are far too shallow. You could extended the finger pads by gluing some rubber or something similar on top of them but you would lose the markings and I think even then the contact part of the buttons would be far too long so constantly touching the contacts and permanently activating the electronics, this would probably confuse the car as much as me and as for battery life….. I think this idea could work if we could discover which type of Rubber Pad could be modified, however I have no clue as where to start on this. My Solution The only solution I can offer right now is using some electrically conductive paint on the contacts of the buttons on the Rubber Pad. The stuff I used is in the pic, other similar products are available and all are easily and cheaply obtainable from well known on line retailers. It’s easy to use. Remove the Rubber Pad from the Fob and clean the contact part of the buttons with Isopropyl Wipes or liquid IPA or similar. Apply a small amount of the “ paint “ to each of the contact buttons and let it dry, make sure it’s totally dry before putting it all back together. I know that you’ll be eager to try and see if it works but be patient ! Whilst you are in the Fob carefully clean the gold contact pads of the PCB, including the battery area, with the IPA stuff or Contact Cleaner, make sure that everything is clean and dry before reassembling it all with new batteries. This repair worked wonderfully on mine, it was like having a brand new Fob, no more dancing around the car like a loony and no more arcane incantations. BUT. ( Why is there always a BUT ? ) This repair worked perfectly for five months and then total failure, not one button worked. Don’t panic, a few minutes work repeating the above procedure followed by a few hours waiting for paint to dry and all is good again. So, far from a real solution or ideal but at least some sort of a cure and if you have to repeat it every few months it’s no big deal. If you’ve read this far through these ramblings you probably have an interest in this problem, if so I’d be happy to hear your thoughts and ideas, Thanks, Nige.

Hi Nige, probably work better if you used a proper contact cleaner - dousing your fob in India Pale Ale (IPA) doesn't sound like a good option!!!!!! Joke. N6 JMX

My lungs and kidneys have already gone lol I'm on life support 😂

More people chatting would be a bonus though and not just us three musketeers 😂

Fair enough🤣

Hi James, for the F-Pace SVR model, you are possibly best to look at the Jaguar Approved website, where there are currently 15 F-Pace SVR listed for sale around the country. N6 JMX

Hi Richard, good on you. Here's hoping you can get the problems resolved and another great car back on the roads. N6 JMX

Simon here proud owner oh my first Jaguar. A mint 2012 XF 3.0d Portfolio with just 37k on the clock. It an ex Jaguar press car. Expect many dumb question to follow !

Hi Lennart, have you confirmed that the water pump is working correctly? A dry / empty hose would suggest that no circulation is taking place. Additionally, with an unknown history, you may wish to consider emptying the entire coolant system, flushing the waterways fully and then refilling with the correct strength and formulation of antifreeze. Mixing antifreeze types can create gelling and therefore blockage of the waterways. N6 JMX

Hi Kevin, first check has to be the tyre pressures, check all round to ensure correct pressures are maintained. Secondly, try the car on a different road, sometimes the carriageway can cause some weird feedback issues through the steering. Can you tell if the steering inputs are working correctly, i.e. car moves under steering control to change lanes properly? Check wheel alignment - all 4 wheels specifically, especially if you have been in contact with potholes recently. Whilst the alignment is being checked, have the mechanic check for any play in the bearings and bushes. Any play in the system can cause the front end to feel "woolly", or floaty. N6 JMX

Hi Karl, that is strange. Have you managed to get a code reader to see if there are any stored codes held in the "brain"? Incidentally, when you disconnect the battery, touch the negative cable to the positive terminal / cable which will discharge any residual capacitance in the system. I can't understand why the multiple disconnect and reconnect of the battery ultimately encourages it to start. In terms of the not starting, even a modern car only needs 3 things to start, air, fuel and a spark. Assuming you have a decent spark as you indicate it runs okay once started, it might be time to look at the fuel supply. Additionally, air leaks on the inlet side can create a problem - try a smoke test to see if there are any leaks. Good luck. N6 JMX

Have you checked the fuses? Sounds like one fuse should control all of the missing functions. N6 JMX

Hi Matt and welcome. First port of call is the battery. If the battery is more than 5 years old I would change it. These cars, like all modern premium cars, eat up the amps at an alarming rate so unless your battery is recharged often by a long run it will suffer a drop in voltage sufficent to upset at least one of the many computer modules. If possible put it on charge and see if that solves the problem. Personally I would use a Ctek charger at least weekly. Make sure you use a charger capable of handling the AGM battery. Also if the battery is low the S/S will not be working. Also worth checking for water in drivers footwell as the washer bottles can leak and flood the electrics causing all sorts of wierd problems so fingers crossed yours is nice and dry... Good luck, John

Before I brought my 5 Lt XK I looked at many and watch so many hours of U tube it all started to go blurry but the one thing most reviewers commented on was how a std system was so quiet with out pulling fuse 19 or swapping the rear pipe . But during my test drive it didn't sound to muffled but the weird thing was I didn't notice the quad pipes at the rear till I'd looked at a few more, so on a return viewing a quick look under the rear revealed a lack of oil drum size silencer which some might see as a bad thing I just saw a £800 saving on replacing it anyway. As I enter my mid to late 50s my feeble attempt to grow up and be more age appropriate seems to be a dismal failure. Pete.

Welcome in Ken ==Enjoy -- 😃😉

Hi Alan, welcome to the wonderful world of Modern XK motoring. Hope you have many happy miles in yours. N6 JMX

Grampian Transport Museum runs an annual event, How Many Left, which showcases vehicles of which there are under 500 recorded on the DVLA database. The event will run on Sunday 11 May and based on recent years around 130 vehicles will be on show and (subject to weather) around 1000 visitors on the day. In recent years we've also had a "show within the show" featuring 50 years of the VW Golf, 100 years of MG and 70 years of BMC for example. In 2025, we are featuring 100 years of the Jaguar marque and would welcome any Jaguar owners coming along with their cars. Entrants receive free admission to the museum which has an excellent shop and tearoom as well as topical displays which include an ex Eddie Irvine F1 Jaguar. Further information about the museum and the event can be found at gtm.org.uk All at GTM look forward to welcoming you !

How do I replace the windscreen wiper blades on my 2019 Jaguar XF? (This is the X260 model) I cannot seem to get the blades to the service position as shown in the owners handbook? Also I am unsure as to how the blades actually clip on or are taken off. Ca anyone help please?

lift the wheel up, rotate it by hand and have a listen. M

As an S-Type owner, you'll be aware (I guess) of how sensitive the electronics is to low battery voltage. You'll maybe not know though, what you're expected to do after dis-connecting and re-connecting the battery. I've put together a PDF document which takes you through the procedure step by step. Nothing that isn't readily available elsewhere but just gathered together and (in my view) logically ordered into a single reference. It also includes how to get the audio system working when you don't have the security code I've been asked for it so many times that I though I'd make a thread just for access to that document so here it is:- Battery reset.pdf

Excellent, thorough job 👍

hI What engine do you have as some are different One of the better code readers is a Icarsoft LR V3 Try this in the pic below cheers Joe

Don’t know the part number however, you should be looking for the 19 inch space saver. Google may be your friend here.😎