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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/14/2024 in Posts
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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .2 points
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I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG2 points
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If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.2 points
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did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly2 points
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Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX2 points
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Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar2 points
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Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁2 points
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Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.2 points
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For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX2 points
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Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.2 points
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There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX2 points
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Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX2 points
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Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.2 points
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Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX2 points
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I have great news S type jaguar 3.0 2001 Y554BPA coolant tank, fitted today no longer waiting for part jaguar has got this coolant tank in stock.2 points
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Hi Sheela, With an 8 year old battery it is simply waiting to fail. These modern cars have so many electronics going on in the background that the quiescent battery drain can be quite high and a car like yours left to sit around for a week or so will have a low battery - even when the battery is relatively new. The recommendation is typically to replace the battery in a Modern Jaguar at 5 years. If I were in your position, I would be looking for a new battery replacement and ensure you get a premium battery for a premium car, AND from a reliable supplier. There have been a number of reports of batteries failing after only a few months, so you want the back-up of a premium supplier for a no quibble exchange. Note that if you plan to change the battery yourself, then the car's ECU needs to be "informed" via a Jaguar diagnostics system that a new battery is in place in order that it can reset the charging rates, N6 JMX2 points
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I'd have a look online in your home area (it says non-UK so no idea where in the world you are) and find a Dexron VI compatible fluid and use that, especially if you plan on periodic part-changes or full changes to maintain it. A quick search revealed that Pentosil #1 is a "life-time fluid" so is likely to be more expensive and won't necessarily last the life of your box. I'd prefer to do a part-change once a year or so to maintain the fluid than use a "lifetime fluid" that maybe breaks down and kills my gearbox. Each to their own though.......1 point
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Hi this is my first Jaguar, so it have been quite a learning curve. It is so much fun to drive. I found my XJ40 sitting in a luxury car dealership with no registration and a ABS problem. It was a real nice locking car and my wife loved it so I bought it site unseen and had it delivered. When checking the service book I found that it had only done 2000k in the last 10 years and it was running poorly, a couple of bottles of injector cleaner, full oil change and service saw it right. As ABS was not mandatory down here until 2003 and being a old circuit racer I had it removed, the car still stops on a dime. I registered the car on historic plates which where I am gives me 60 driving days a year . Since then I have replaced the rear suspension and sway bar bushes and 2 oil pressure senders in 14 months ( they are just so hard to get to). The 3rd one will be a after market universal one as the one we can get down here seem to be rubbish. I'm not completely sure if it will work but the other ones cost $100 au plus so I will give it a try.1 point
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Hi Roy, welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring. Be sure to post a few photos when you can. N6 JMX1 point
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This is a known but not common issue. The hood can be resealed, after suitable cleaning of the old adhesive with Welcon surface cleaner, by using a glue called Teromix 6700. N6 JMX1 point
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Thanks for the information it's appreciated. It is the middle module the one in the footwear drivers side. I have obtained the SDD and am in the process of reprogramming it to the car, I had the old one cleared byMuggles in Lincoln, so far so good1 point
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Thanks, BiK3rz. It is a 2.0d. Appreciate your advice. Think I'll give this one a swerve.1 point
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I've read that people are getting sick of the owners and deserting their forums in droves, which can only be a good thing for independent forums. 👍1 point
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Hi Tony, do you know the age and history of your battery. The ability of the battery to start the car is no longer the definitive indicator of a good battery as the sensitive electronics of a modern car, especially a Jaguar must have a stable voltage supply at all times. If you don't know the battery history, or if you do know that the battery is more than 5 years old, then the first part of the fault finding MUST be to change the battery. As your car is a 2016 model, it could well still have the original battery installed - probably has a Jaguar sticker on it. Ensure any replacement battery is of the correct rating and dimensions as it must fit into the battery tray and be secured - an MoT failure for an unsecured battery. Go to the Kwik Fit website and locate the "Battery" tab, enter your registration number and post code and then click search. The site does all of the hard work for you and once you have found the correct battery, you can run a separate search to find it at the best price - don't need to purchase it from Kwik Fit of course. A lot of folks suggest the Battery Mega Store as offering good prices, but remember you need to be able to fit it, or pay around £30 for a local garage to install the battery you purchase. Once you have confirmed the battery history and / or change, come back and let us know for further advice. N6 JMX1 point
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Just call me "four Jags" Cadwell. Have finally found a car I have always wanted and loved. It's a 2005 S-Type R variant. The big brute with a "proper" V8 and supercharger that still whines and doesn't make any strange noises I know it has a couple of minor faults. One of the headlights is permanently pointing at the ground and there is a bit of interior trim missing on the passenger side A pillar Other than that can't find anything seriously wrong with it and definitely think it's going to be a keeper for an old spanner armed with a hammer So am asking two questions Dear old V8 owners. What have I missed. What is going to go wrong soon or already has and I've not found it yet? What's the going black market rate for a spare kidney? 🙂1 point
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Hi Michael https://www.ashwoodjagparts.co.uk/product-page/fuel-pump-jaguar-s-type-3-0-4-0-xr822164p https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.com/products/s-type-fuel-pump-xr822164 https://advancedautomotives.com/sytec-hi-replacement-fuel-pump-kit-jaguar-s-type-30-v6-40-v8-aston-itp316-12125-p.asp Hope that helps. John1 point
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Here's a little top tip, not applicable to all Jaguar Models, but certainly quite a few. It transpires that if someone uses the vanity mirror within the sun visors and does not slide the cover closed afterwards, the vanity light can stay illuminated. It should go out when the ignition is switched off, but if left on indefinitely, there is the potential for a fault to develop such that the vanity light stays on, even with the ignition off. Takeaway is to always ensure that the sliding cover is closed on the vanity mirror after use and not simply the sun visor flipped upwards. N6 JMX1 point
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Hi Steven, you could try Studio Cars of Preston, they look after the trim on a number of Classic and Modern Jaguars - as well as sell / repair Jaguars. Follow the link below. Used Cars Weeton, near Preston, Lancashire | Studio Cars Of Preston N6 JMX1 point
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Before I brought my 5 Lt XK I looked at many and watch so many hours of U tube it all started to go blurry but the one thing most reviewers commented on was how a std system was so quiet with out pulling fuse 19 or swapping the rear pipe . But during my test drive it didn't sound to muffled but the weird thing was I didn't notice the quad pipes at the rear till I'd looked at a few more, so on a return viewing a quick look under the rear revealed a lack of oil drum size silencer which some might see as a bad thing I just saw a £800 saving on replacing it anyway. As I enter my mid to late 50s my feeble attempt to grow up and be more age appropriate seems to be a dismal failure. Pete.1 point
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Hi Mark, well done you and welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring. Post a few photos once you have it on the driveway. Have a great festive season. N6 JMX1 point
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I don't know where you are in Europe but a local breaker would be able to fix you up probably off the shelf these days. Make sure it is the same type and that hopefully the adjustment system is OK. Repair kits for this are readily available for about 60 quid. By the way the way you need to remove the front to do the job. M1 point
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Sorry to hear that but I understand as I am in the same position. Best of luck1 point
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How do I replace the windscreen wiper blades on my 2019 Jaguar XF? (This is the X260 model) I cannot seem to get the blades to the service position as shown in the owners handbook? Also I am unsure as to how the blades actually clip on or are taken off. Ca anyone help please?1 point
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Hi Ian Can you give a little more detail? Does the engine just stop dead? Any warning lights? Any smoke? Rough running? Noises? Not sure I agree with your mechanic that yours counts as "an older car" in terms of reading the DTC codes. My cheap code reader is more than happy reading any DTCs on my 2.1 petrol from 2003.... Regards John1 point
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Hi Andrew, I assume you have not yet undertaken a trial fit of your 18 inch space saver, at least to the front axle of your XKR? As Jim has stated above, the 18 inch, red wheel WILL NOT FIT the XKR as a consequence of the larger front brake callipers. It has to be the 19 inch space saver for the XKR, which in Jaguar supplied days was black in colour, whilst the 18 inch was red. Nowadays, there are multiple companies offering space saver spare wheels and one can no longer rely on selecting by the colour of the wheel. I have spotted black space savers that are only 18 inch. Anyone who needs / wants to procure a space saver spare wheel needs to take due care and attention so as not to be caught out. And, DEFINATELY do not elect to purchase a suitable standard (front) road wheel as that would be dangerous if fitted to the car in a puncture situation. In these cases, it is not a diameter issue to fit over the rear callipers, but it is an "offset" issue to avoid binding on the spokes on the rear. Look at a company called Road Hero, who use Kwik Fit as a retail agent. They offer a complete kit, including chocks and jack, which all came with the Jaguar supplied version. N6 JMX1 point
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