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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Having worked most of my life in electrical/electronic engineering, I can confirm there is nothing more frustrating than having to write on the job sheet "NFFAT" - No Fault Found At Test. Over the decades ive had many "Intermittently Intermittent" faults as i call them. Sometimes it's has been a long and extremely annoying process to find the fault and often when i do, i find it's a "Compound Intermittent Fault" - one where two or more problems contribute to not only the intermittent fault but the overall intermittency of it occurring in the first place. I wish you and your autoelectrician luck with finding it, you may have to lose this battle to win the war and come to an arrangement with him whereby he comes to you when it faults to investigate. This isn't just a "Jag thing", it happens to all makes and some are much worse than others! 'Tis the nature of the beast with electrical/electronic systems sadly.

my XF in a nice wooded are on the day i bought it. Then at home after fitting a chin splitter. She looks mean.

Hi Lez. At that age you are probably going to struggle to get decent cover as most are limited to 10 years or 100k after which cover limit and items covered drops substantially. There are some that will go to 12 years and 120k but personally at 10yrs I would be going with your AA option and laying aside a couple of hundred a month in a savings account to "self insure" Good luck John

Hello. I am new to Jaguar and this club, living in North Hampshire. I have a 2017 XF 2.0 D, Recently need timing chain replacement including upgrade to prevent a recurrence. Fortunately covered by dealer warranty. Prior to negotiating the repair I funded a test £200 + vat) on a main dealer rig to know for sure if new chain was needed. Result was clear. Engine now sounds better and seems a bit more responsive. Sorry this may not be of any real help to you, but the failed test result came with dire warnings of possible outcomes if the job was not done. I expect you are aware of these. All the Best and Regards, Brian C

Free to a good home 1999 jaguar s type front and rear bumpers shells. In mistral blue. Taken from my 1999 3.0 se. Car long gone but have some spares in the garage. Had no plans to get another but now have a 2007 2.7d. So body panels will fit but bumpers a different style Need the space in my garage and they will Free Collection only Message me here Or email [email protected]

Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!

Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!

Yes it will as it is purely mechanical.🙄

Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.

I don’t think I’ve posted before, so hello. Im Matt owner of a X-Type 2.2 Sovereign estate. Photo credit.. Image taken from Moves like Jaguar You Tube Video JBC @ JLR Classic

You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.

The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

Hi just some screen shots of error codes that are on now

Hi Alan, unfortunate damage to your sump, but becoming more prevalent as our roads network continues to deteriorate - and its only going to be getting worse. For a suitable replacement engine, speak to the good folks at Auto Reserve or Eurojag, easily found by an online search, but if you have trouble finding them, come back here for more help. N6 JMX

First thing to do is read the codes. If the battery is indeed not charging then that will upset the engine manangement and many other things. It could be there's a short to earth in the warning light circuit which will cause this. There could be a number of other reasons for it as well, i'd suggest searching for a local Jag independent specialist and/or a good autoelectrician.

Hi Roy, Well,I’m 69 and now on my second XF. First was an X250 3.0S portfolio (2011). Current one is an X260 3.0 S, loaded with options. To choose between the two is a bit like choosing between your children! First had a better, but dated interior compared to 5e current one. But the current one is loaded with toys and is much, much more fun to drive. Haven’t tried a non sport version of either, so sorry, can’t comment on whether they’re worth it, but if you want performance and handling but with a supple ride, neither will disappoint. so…. What colour are you going to choose??? Good hunting, and enjoy! cheers, Jon

Thanks for the comment. You are absolutely correct. That's why I bought an aluminium-bodied car this time. I have had a varied career, but spent thirty years in the motor industry building cars. I have always had the same intention; it's only now I can afford to buy what I wanted all along. I was in senior management, but not that senior that I could affect what we made. And I am an engineer and know that aluminium is not completely the answer but it is getting nearer. Jim My other cars are a Suzuki Swift Sports (just a day-to-day car but fun) and a track car a fibreglass-bodied, but properly chassisied Porsche 550 Spyder copy, with an Alfa flat four Engine. My general nickname is Spyderromeo

!Removed! hell, your fault? an insult if you ask me...yeh i would speak to dealer principal, if they won't even entertain the idea, legal action full on.

My name is Alan I have just joined the club I have a XKR soft top it's a 1999 model with just 56,000 miles on the clock I bought this as I a had a 1967 E Type years ago and regretted selling now retired can't afford another so bought XKR

Hi Nige, probably work better if you used a proper contact cleaner - dousing your fob in India Pale Ale (IPA) doesn't sound like a good option!!!!!! Joke. N6 JMX

Thanks for the information it's appreciated. It is the middle module the one in the footwear drivers side. I have obtained the SDD and am in the process of reprogramming it to the car, I had the old one cleared byMuggles in Lincoln, so far so good

My lungs and kidneys have already gone lol I'm on life support 😂

Thanks, BiK3rz. It is a 2.0d. Appreciate your advice. Think I'll give this one a swerve.

Sorry yes it was...

Yeh and be left with 585 of them, naah thanks 🤣

Hi everyone, after my old car got written off last year, my wife and son convinced me to get this XF X260:

Hi all I have a 2011 2.2d xf, the car is great when cold accelerates great no issues, on long motorway runs again no issues, but when I drive around town about 7-10 miles stop start I get some series acceleration issues, the car is very unpredictable sometimes it pulls away slowly and picks up gradually, other times it pulls away lime a snail and very slowly picks up, I have no error codes or fault lights, I have changed the MAF sensor, had the EGR valve programmed out of the ECU and changed all filters and can't find the issue, when the problem occurs if I put my foot to the floor it revs to about 3000 rpm but doesn't pick up and the gears are snatchy, I have had the transmission serviced and checked and that if fine any help would be greatly appreciated.

Glad to hear you finally got it done Cameron, yours was much more frilly than mine though! 😮 Hopefully it should stay solid for several (or more) years to come now!

hello everyone, just got my first XKR, 2011 soft top. love the car. I have had 11 previous Jaguars, including 5 f types, 3 f paces, i E pace and a XJS. approaching retirement so bought myself something to keep me occupied.

Hi Chris, good to know. For the vehicles you are looking out for, you need the more specialist outlets such as Ken Jenkins, trading as UK Jag. Ken has a steady supply of these type of machines and is currently advertising a 1959 XK 150S, 3.8 Roadster (not a DHC). He is advertising a 1954 XK120 DHC 3.4. the website is www.ukjag.co.uk There is an XK150 DHC SE 1959 advertised in the JE magazine - in the Norfolk area. N6 JMX

Hi Stephen, try looking up DCR AutoParts, they are very good on the X-100 models and getting into the X-150 models as well. https://www.dcrautoparts.com/ The owner, Dave Roche, is always good for advice on those hard to find parts. N6 JMX

hi all i'm new to this and my name is paul and i have a 2018 jaguar xf with no voice, tried everything to grt it to say something but alas nothing, will no even give me map directions, be great if someone could give me a bit of help please, thanks

Quick update. Still waiting for the ombudsman to rule on the £500 untraceable driver email. My car was advertised and sold on 'Copart' salvage auctions as a category 'N' (non structural) write off. There were no pictures on their website showing the damage to the inner sill and rear wheel / suspension. I will wait and see if it turns up for sale on Autotrader or Ebay ! For anyone that's interested, I have decided to replace it with a 2010 XFR that my friend is selling.

I'm going to be absolutely blunt about this. I believe the industry is corrupt and needs strict regulation. Apart from some of the ridiculous questions they ask (what the hell does your job, if it doesn't involve using the car, or your marital status got to do with insuring your car?), there is absolutely no reason or excuse for one insurance quote to be double (and often much more) that of a similar quote. It's blatant profiteering based on nothing but the hope that people will find it too much hassle obtaining multiple quotes. I wouldn't mind so much but you're effectively paying for a piece of paper anyway. Nothing physically happens unless you have an accident, nobody has actually done anything except printed out a document and posted it to you. And most of the time they encourage you to do it online so they don't even have to do that. You're just subsidising those who do have accidents. I was recently charged a £20 admin fee when I had to update my insurance details because I changed my car. Why? I completed all the details online and nobody at Hastings had to do anything at all, so why am I being charged for completing my own form? The whole industry is just one giant scam in my opinion.