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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX

I have great news S type jaguar 3.0 2001 Y554BPA coolant tank, fitted today no longer waiting for part jaguar has got this coolant tank in stock.

You could also look at SNG Barrett's website as they hold large stocks of parts for these cars. SNG Barratt UK | Keeping your Jaguar on the road N6 JMX

Welcome to the forum, enjoy.😊

The X260 XF diesel (2015 on) uses either the 2.0 ingenium engine or the 3.0 V6, whereas the earlier X250 model (up to 2015) uses either the 2.2 or 3.0 V6 diesel engine. The 2.0 ingenium engine doesn't have a brilliant reputation for reliability unfortunately. General opinion is that the X260 also had lower quality interior materials, until the final facelift in late 2019, when it got the interior upgrade that it deserved. Personally, I would look for one of the last X250 3.0 V6 S Portfolio models, very well specced and great interior quality.

completetly different cars...EV vs diesel - personally would go for xf 3.0d...much more refined than 2.0. depending what year make we talking about in terms of 2.0 ingenium diesel. after 2019 there were design changes to it and they are more reliable than in 2016-2018 models

Hopefully this will help you out; airbag code 16 indicates a passenger seat weight sensor CAN fault. This means there's a communication issue with the sensor that detects if someone is sitting in the passenger seat. The CAN (Controller Area Network) is a communication bus that various modules in the car use to talk to each other, and the fault code suggests a problem with the signal from the passenger seat weight sensor being transmitted over the CAN. Here's a more detailed explanation: Passenger Seat Weight Sensor: This sensor is located under the passenger seat cushion and is designed to detect the weight of a person sitting there. CAN Fault: The CAN bus is a communication network that allows different modules in the car to exchange data. If the passenger seat weight sensor is not communicating properly with the other modules (like the airbag control module) via the CAN, it will trigger code 16. Possible Causes: Faulty weight sensor under the seat. Wiring or connection issues in the passenger seat weight sensor circuit. A problem with the CAN bus itself (less likely). Faulty passenger airbag module.

And that is why the insurance company have said it is a total loss. Remember, the selling price includes the sellers profit, your insurance company will not want to pay anything to the sellers profit margin.

Doubt he still considers it 3y later...either got what he wanted or gave up by now🤣

Nice to hear but don't get use to it lol mine has turned into a real money pit

Wooeehey

Buahahahaha

Hi all I have a 2011 2.2d xf, the car is great when cold accelerates great no issues, on long motorway runs again no issues, but when I drive around town about 7-10 miles stop start I get some series acceleration issues, the car is very unpredictable sometimes it pulls away slowly and picks up gradually, other times it pulls away lime a snail and very slowly picks up, I have no error codes or fault lights, I have changed the MAF sensor, had the EGR valve programmed out of the ECU and changed all filters and can't find the issue, when the problem occurs if I put my foot to the floor it revs to about 3000 rpm but doesn't pick up and the gears are snatchy, I have had the transmission serviced and checked and that if fine any help would be greatly appreciated.

👍

What does everyone think? I personally am really hoping that I don`t lose my love for Jaguar, but I do fear this may spark the end of our relationship!! https://www.msn.com/en-gb/cars/news/jaguar-unveils-new-logo-and-look-as-it-prepares-for-an-electric-future/ar-AA1ulqoV?ocid=msedgntp&pc=DCTS&cvid=040710aebc7f47f48508ce7c50aa3f1f&ei=11

Never!!!!..LOL

woodchuck ---another name for Groundhog ???

Hi If you want to do a Proper job, not a Bodge Job, then you can buy the adjusters off ebay, the normal S-type adjusters will do, as theres only one that breaks in each headlight and that the same in the normal headlights. but you do have to take the headlight off and split them, does not take that long did mine in a few hours. lots of videos on youtube on how to split the lights, but if you put them in the oven for 10 minutes on about 90 Deg C, it softens the black sealant, its like blutac but black, makes it go soft and the lenses come off quite easy done a few of them and its not bad, the only thing you must remember, is to disconnect the battery before unplugging the headlights, or your self leveling lights will stop working and can only be reset with software like jaguar ids/sdd or a tool like icarsoft LR V2 cheers Joe

Hi Jas Personally i would walk away. Probably looking somewhere close to at least 1/3 of the cost of the of the car as a minimum and there are plenty of decent ones around as alternative purchases. Good luck John

I have a Jaguar XF 2009/10. I have this problem. No comms option on menu. No Voice Control on anything. Bluetooth and phone working fine, Ideally I would like a simple solution (e.g. download an upgrade and upload to the car - here is the explanation of how you do that). Or failing that a detailed explanation of what needs to be done (e,g, go to a Jaguar dealer and suck it up). Or failing that a suggestion of where I should look to find useful help, Does no-one on this forum answer a question with a helpful answer rather than a cryptic answer involving their two years of struggling with the problem and exhibiting their detailed knowledge of all the unexplained acronyms which they have found along the way and still fail to explain? Thanks in advance for putting up with my rant.

Myton Jaguar Parts https://www.myton.parts/jaguar-parts Mention 'Jaguar Owners Club' for a discount

Hi There a lever inside the heandlight that you can flick and its alters the headlight pattern, no need to swap them but this is only possible on the HID headlights if you have halogen ones, then I think you would have to use the stick on bean benders or swap the lights, halogen ones are not interchangeable with HID ones as the wiring is different. Cheers Joe

Thought I'd better say hi . I've not long bought a 2016 XF portfolio that also had a lot of options fitted to it including large incontrol pro screen, full LCD drivers display, some fancy brown leather seats that are heated all round and cooled in the front., HUD (I love this) and heated steering I did have a ford X type Jag about 5 years before, great car but needed more space. XF is high(🤷🏻‍♂️) mileage 111,000 when I bought it, now 114,000 . Cam chain kit done just before purchase. No major issues, had a full service by a friends garage and underneath fully checked. Also had coolant flush and changed and Gearbox flushed and serviced - for peace of mind and so I have a baseline to work from. Fitted a new battery as (a) I had no idea how old it was and (B) When It was cold and under a lot of electrical load first thing when the car was cold, it stalled out.(As soon as the heated screens,seat, steering wheel and hi defrost tuned off it was fine)and I've not had a problem since. Niggly jibs to do is a drivers door rattle when closing or being enthusiastic with the music suspect it's the foam insulation on the cables, and not being able to sign into the navigation, although it works and my incontrol pro app records journeys etc (bought the two year deal after the free month) but I'm in frustratingly slow chat with jaguar help for this, but now they want to see my logbook again (even though it was all changed after I took it to a main stealer and I have an active account set up.

Hi Paul -- Welcome to the club plenty to see and talk about here ?? - And that XF you have looks really good - Frank

Just for info, after discussion with JLR they agreed the car was UK built then exported to Japan. a helpful chap then sent me the original build specification for the car Result!

Hi Paul, good for you. The life span of a battery in a Modern XK is around 5 years with a good proactive maintenance call to change the battery when it gets to that 5 year mark. It's amazing just how many faults the Modern XK can throw up simply because the battery is on the wane. In these cars, the ability to start the car is not a good indicator that the battery is fit for further service as the electronics that make this car work are simply very sensitive to low voltage. The takeaway lesson should be to have the car on a Smart Charger - Ring Automotive or C-Tek - when leaving the car idle for longer periods. In my own case, if my car is going to be standing for more than a couple of days, I connect up my Ring Automotive RSC612 Smart Charger to the remote charging posts in the boot. The RSC612 will also work on vehicles with an AGM battery for Stop/Start technology. Happy motoring. N6 JMX

those rims are fire! great choice, mate.

Struggling to find part numbers MJB1341AC and MJF1346AA ... my usual go to Barretts are not coming back with any information. Nearside front suspension arm and bush. Any help out there in XK8 land?

Hi Stephen, try looking up DCR AutoParts, they are very good on the X-100 models and getting into the X-150 models as well. https://www.dcrautoparts.com/ The owner, Dave Roche, is always good for advice on those hard to find parts. N6 JMX

I'm going to be absolutely blunt about this. I believe the industry is corrupt and needs strict regulation. Apart from some of the ridiculous questions they ask (what the hell does your job, if it doesn't involve using the car, or your marital status got to do with insuring your car?), there is absolutely no reason or excuse for one insurance quote to be double (and often much more) that of a similar quote. It's blatant profiteering based on nothing but the hope that people will find it too much hassle obtaining multiple quotes. I wouldn't mind so much but you're effectively paying for a piece of paper anyway. Nothing physically happens unless you have an accident, nobody has actually done anything except printed out a document and posted it to you. And most of the time they encourage you to do it online so they don't even have to do that. You're just subsidising those who do have accidents. I was recently charged a £20 admin fee when I had to update my insurance details because I changed my car. Why? I completed all the details online and nobody at Hastings had to do anything at all, so why am I being charged for completing my own form? The whole industry is just one giant scam in my opinion.

Thanks Geoff, That's what I figured also I won't have the hassle of having to book it in to 2 different garages & if the fault returns who do you go to! Rather bizarrely I went out in the car yesterday & the fault message on the dash cleared itself along with the ABS light, when I got home I switched the engine off, left it for a while re started it & the message returned so have still decided to have the work done just to be on the safe side