Leaderboard

I enjoy looking in the members gallery and encourage other JOC members to post photos of their Jag, I thought a thread of Front Ends would be good to see, with a little detail if you wish. Here’s my XF which I purchased in October 2023.

a front end shot from earlier this year 😀 tows the caravan beautifully

...and my pair.... I've had the Sportbrake for 6 years and the X-Type for 12 months. It still has under 27k on the clock, serviced every 12 months and an interior like new. It even had the previous owners leather driving gloves in the glove box along with a bag of Werthers 🙂 It now has new sills and is fully Lanoguarded underneath. Failed 2 MOTs in its life, once for headlight aim and once for sills in 2017. Currently working on the original wheels but got some refurbed X-Triple 5 on at the moment with Goodyear Vector 3 all seasons.

Nice one Ian! This is my XK8. I've only had her for about 3 months. Endless grin!!

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX

I have great news S type jaguar 3.0 2001 Y554BPA coolant tank, fitted today no longer waiting for part jaguar has got this coolant tank in stock.

Hi Sheela, With an 8 year old battery it is simply waiting to fail. These modern cars have so many electronics going on in the background that the quiescent battery drain can be quite high and a car like yours left to sit around for a week or so will have a low battery - even when the battery is relatively new. The recommendation is typically to replace the battery in a Modern Jaguar at 5 years. If I were in your position, I would be looking for a new battery replacement and ensure you get a premium battery for a premium car, AND from a reliable supplier. There have been a number of reports of batteries failing after only a few months, so you want the back-up of a premium supplier for a no quibble exchange. Note that if you plan to change the battery yourself, then the car's ECU needs to be "informed" via a Jaguar diagnostics system that a new battery is in place in order that it can reset the charging rates, N6 JMX

A fantastic period piece featuring the iconic E-Type Jaguar (well what else are you going to use in a road movie). This fantastic film produced by Pirelli using an e-type (XKE) Jaguar to demonstrate their range of Cinturato Tires. By the time this film was made the Pirelli Cinturato range had already been available for over a decade.Pirelli’s Cinturato range of tires dramatically changed people’s perception of how good tires could be. They improved the handling of cars like an e-type Jaguar, when fitted with these progressive sports car tires. https://www.cinturato.net/tortoise-and-hare.html?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAAR2gKn11c8-xaXDe3CsA4XlIcw6wMfdGqFki-z6VEGXrpr_u8USMJdKjVm8_aem_qOpi8lKqwyFk5IjgbhXVWw

Here's one of mine on the original plates :

Sounds like a busy week

XK8 Key Fobs – A Repair, Sort Of……. Some thoughts, some ramblings, some ideas and one “sort of” solution about the LJA 2610BA XK8 4 Button Key Fob. I’m sure you all know the scenario. You walk up to the car and press the ‘Unlock’ Button and hey presto, nothing happens. You dance around the car, often hopping on one leg, whilst under your breath reciting ‘Abra Cadabra’ ( or some other words which I can’t possibly repeat here ) pressing and holding the button, waving it around the roof and ‘C’ pillars hoping that waving a virtual magic wand cunningly disguised as a Key Fob will actually make it work. The final incantation of ‘Open Sesame ‘ doesn’t work either at which point you give up and return indoors for a stiff drink ( strong coffee, what do you think I meant ? ) whilst you change the batteries for the second time in a week convincing yourself that the recently replaced batteries must have been faulty. Of course they aren’t and you are no further forward other than needing to visit the loo for a comfort break after supping even more coffee. I know that you could have opened the door with the key and listened to the countdown of the Alarm about to unleash all hell on me and the rest of the neighbourhood if I fail to get the key in the ignition in time to prevent this happening or even if I do manage to do this in time the Alarm fails to disarm and then both the Alarm and myself enter panic mode, I have a ( irrational ? ) fear of this, perhaps I’m not alone in this or is it just me that’s paranoid ? Answers to me on a free voucher for the local psychiatrist. The problem is of course wear on the contact pads of the Rubber Buttons, the solution is to replace the Rubber Pad. I’m talking about the four button one, LJA 2610BA and other similar variants, and here lies the rub. Not that many years ago this type of Fob Case complete with new Rubber Pad were readily available on line for about a fiver, now they all seem to made of that wonderful and oft used classic car material called ‘Unobtanium.’ Over the last few years I have travelled the world, virtually of course, and have found absolutely zero, none, zilch, of these available anywhere so what next ? POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS Repair Services. There are plenty of people out there offering repair/refurbishment of your existing Fobs and I assume that this includes repair of the electronics AND replacement of the Rubber Pads and Case. If so where do they obtain these parts ? These services are priced anywhere from £30 to £200, what the difference in prices may indicate I have no idea, but if all you need is the Rubber Pad even the cheapest is a bit steep. Even so if one of these guys are prepared to sell me just the Rubber Pad I may be prepared to pay over the odds to obtain a couple of spares. I haven’t asked any of them so have no idea if any of these repair services would be prepared to do a deal. The other thing I, probably unnecessarily, worry about using a repair service is the reprogramming of the repaired unit. Everyone seems to think that the reprogramming is a simple task that takes just a few minutes of flashing the lights in sequence and this may well be so, but at this point my paranoia rears it’s head again……. Graphite Buttons Graphite buttons are cheap and readily available. The idea is that you get the right size buttons and then glue them over the worn buttons on your Rubber Pads with some contact adhesive and then the job is done. My worry here is that this may be a one shot only job. If the buttons either don’t stick very well or don’t work for some reason then that’s the end, the contact adhesive will have probably ruined whatever was left of the functionality of your existing buttons, however poor they were they are now a darned sight worse. Consequently I haven’t tried this. Modifying Different Rubber Pads I thought I may have cracked it with this idea. I bought a 5 Button Rubber Button Pad for Jaguar X S F TYPE XJ XK XF XKR remote smart key. It looked like with a bit of judicial trimming and some fettling it would fit inside my Fob and the key markings and spacing looked pretty much the same, as indeed they are. Unfortunately the finger pad part of the buttons do not protrude through the Fob, they are far too shallow. You could extended the finger pads by gluing some rubber or something similar on top of them but you would lose the markings and I think even then the contact part of the buttons would be far too long so constantly touching the contacts and permanently activating the electronics, this would probably confuse the car as much as me and as for battery life….. I think this idea could work if we could discover which type of Rubber Pad could be modified, however I have no clue as where to start on this. My Solution The only solution I can offer right now is using some electrically conductive paint on the contacts of the buttons on the Rubber Pad. The stuff I used is in the pic, other similar products are available and all are easily and cheaply obtainable from well known on line retailers. It’s easy to use. Remove the Rubber Pad from the Fob and clean the contact part of the buttons with Isopropyl Wipes or liquid IPA or similar. Apply a small amount of the “ paint “ to each of the contact buttons and let it dry, make sure it’s totally dry before putting it all back together. I know that you’ll be eager to try and see if it works but be patient ! Whilst you are in the Fob carefully clean the gold contact pads of the PCB, including the battery area, with the IPA stuff or Contact Cleaner, make sure that everything is clean and dry before reassembling it all with new batteries. This repair worked wonderfully on mine, it was like having a brand new Fob, no more dancing around the car like a loony and no more arcane incantations. BUT. ( Why is there always a BUT ? ) This repair worked perfectly for five months and then total failure, not one button worked. Don’t panic, a few minutes work repeating the above procedure followed by a few hours waiting for paint to dry and all is good again. So, far from a real solution or ideal but at least some sort of a cure and if you have to repeat it every few months it’s no big deal. If you’ve read this far through these ramblings you probably have an interest in this problem, if so I’d be happy to hear your thoughts and ideas, Thanks, Nige.

No. you are right about the IPA Jim. Wonder if Guiness would be a better option ?......... I have both ! I'll get me coat - and the pills......

Thanks for the information it's appreciated. On to the next step, thanks again

Hi all I have a 2011 2.2d xf, the car is great when cold accelerates great no issues, on long motorway runs again no issues, but when I drive around town about 7-10 miles stop start I get some series acceleration issues, the car is very unpredictable sometimes it pulls away slowly and picks up gradually, other times it pulls away lime a snail and very slowly picks up, I have no error codes or fault lights, I have changed the MAF sensor, had the EGR valve programmed out of the ECU and changed all filters and can't find the issue, when the problem occurs if I put my foot to the floor it revs to about 3000 rpm but doesn't pick up and the gears are snatchy, I have had the transmission serviced and checked and that if fine any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Karl, your battery is a key element of your Modern XK and its ability to start the car (or not as in your case) is no longer a pointer to whether the battery is fit for further service. All modern cars, especially Jaguars, need the battery to be in top condition to allow the multitude of electronics onboard to function correctly. Typical signs of a failing battery are spurious warning lights and apparent electrical gremlins. In truth, I and many others, consider the battery in a Modern XK to be a consumable item and changed at circa 5 years old. In some cases with low usage and regular connection to a battery conditioner when the car is not being used, the battery life can be extended. In your case, unless you know the history of the battery and can confirm it to be less than 5 years old, I would suggest it be changed at the earliest opportunity. Ensure you select the replacement to be of the correct power and dimensions - the battery must fit and be secured into the battery tray, otherwise it is an MoT failure. At a resting voltage below 12 volts, it would seem to be past its prime. Also, as you have discovered, earth connections are also important and I would suggest you check any and all that you can locate around the car. Let us know how you get on. N6 JMX

Hi Pete, given the limited speed (50 MPH) and limited duration (50 miles) for the use of a space saver wheel, the rolling circumference is less of an issue. Strictly speaking, the space saver is intended to get you to a place of safety where the correct road tyre can be replaced. Those VW Polos that you see driving around for weeks, and overtaking you on the dual carriageway, with the space saver fitted are doing it wrong. Having said that, my own Range Rover Sport is fitted with 22-inch rims and comes with a factory installed space saver wheel (a relative term of course) that is fitted with a T195 / 70 / R20 116M tyre. Accordingly, there are 20-inch space savers available. Talk to the dealer. If you do procure a space saver, then you will also need the remainder of the kit - jack, chocks, wheel brace, etc. N6 JMX

I have a Jaguar XF 2009/10. I have this problem. No comms option on menu. No Voice Control on anything. Bluetooth and phone working fine, Ideally I would like a simple solution (e.g. download an upgrade and upload to the car - here is the explanation of how you do that). Or failing that a detailed explanation of what needs to be done (e,g, go to a Jaguar dealer and suck it up). Or failing that a suggestion of where I should look to find useful help, Does no-one on this forum answer a question with a helpful answer rather than a cryptic answer involving their two years of struggling with the problem and exhibiting their detailed knowledge of all the unexplained acronyms which they have found along the way and still fail to explain? Thanks in advance for putting up with my rant.

New to Jaguar, collected my used XE R petrol from main stealer today … haven’t even started to read the manuals … looking forward to to sharing some hints, tips and stories ..

Hi to all my fellow Jag owners. My journey to Jag ownership has not gone as I planned and started last year when I decided to act my age and sell my 350z because it wasn't getting used enough to warrant it and wanted to go old school with something really basic like an Austin 8 or similar. Then the plan was to end nearly 30 years of Range rover ownership by swapping my L320 sport for a F pace. This is where it all went off on a tangent. While watching Bangers n cash the wife took fancy to an E type which was out of budget but got me thinking you see where this is heading. XK8's are now the focus but finding a rust free example for the budget wasn't happening so up the budget till we hitting X150 territory and after weeks of searching and hundreds of miles I became the owner of a 2009 5 litre XK. To say I'm happy is an understatement what an awesome car just can't wait for the weather to improve so I can get some serious miles in it but what about the plan of an F pace well the rangee has a buyer lined up and the F pace should be here next week but I can't help the feeling I might have bit to much off but only time will tell. Pete.

Merry Christmas to the members of the Jaguar Owners Club Enjoy the festive break and see you back here in 2025

Hi There a lever inside the heandlight that you can flick and its alters the headlight pattern, no need to swap them but this is only possible on the HID headlights if you have halogen ones, then I think you would have to use the stick on bean benders or swap the lights, halogen ones are not interchangeable with HID ones as the wiring is different. Cheers Joe

I don't know where you are in Europe but a local breaker would be able to fix you up probably off the shelf these days. Make sure it is the same type and that hopefully the adjustment system is OK. Repair kits for this are readily available for about 60 quid. By the way the way you need to remove the front to do the job. M

compared to the traditional Jaguar logo, they look very amateur a bit like a kids drawing contest work

Hi Paul, good for you. The life span of a battery in a Modern XK is around 5 years with a good proactive maintenance call to change the battery when it gets to that 5 year mark. It's amazing just how many faults the Modern XK can throw up simply because the battery is on the wane. In these cars, the ability to start the car is not a good indicator that the battery is fit for further service as the electronics that make this car work are simply very sensitive to low voltage. The takeaway lesson should be to have the car on a Smart Charger - Ring Automotive or C-Tek - when leaving the car idle for longer periods. In my own case, if my car is going to be standing for more than a couple of days, I connect up my Ring Automotive RSC612 Smart Charger to the remote charging posts in the boot. The RSC612 will also work on vehicles with an AGM battery for Stop/Start technology. Happy motoring. N6 JMX

Hi john, have purchased off ebay sdd & mongoose off ebay £59 & sorted myself, all now working.

Strangely, your symptoms are practically mirrored in a post in the XK Section, see the post in the X-100 section of the XK Club. N6 JMX

Hi Ciao, I agree with John in his response above. If you did not add oil and the garage is reporting an overfill, then the most likely source is coolant into the sump, which cranking over the engine will simply have circulated said coolant around the oilways, not a good outcome. The report does contradict itself of course, in the beginning the oil level is above maximum (substantially) and it concludes that the oil level is way below the minimum mark. Which is it? Irrespective of the oil levels, the compression test is saying that the cylinders are beyond saving. If you have access to a suitable inspection bore camera, it would be interesting to have a look inside the cylinders reading "0 PSI" (zero) as that would tend to suggest there are holes in the pistons and not merely damaged rings. The slow cranking even under boost conditions would also indicate that the engine seized ahead of failing - what were the symptoms the last time the car was driving properly? What caused you to take the car in for investigation. A new engine, well second-hand, should not cost the earth but labour will be substantial. It probably depends what value you think is in the car and how long you intend to keep the car in your possession. N6 JMX

Hi Andy We need quite a bit more info to offer any help. Year, Engine, Price, Mileage, What do you mean by "Breathing really heavily", Have you read any error codes, Any warning lights, etc etc? Regards John

Hi Kyle I live in Lincoln and have a late 2014 XKR-S. Not sure if that’s what you’re after for your display but would be happy to bring it down if interested. If not I might pop down anyway and take a look. Alan

Hi I'm Rich from Morville, thought this would be a good forum to join.I purchased a Jaguar XF sportbrake 2.2d R Sport black this week and can't believe I haven't thought about one before, fantastic car.

Hi Richard Welcome to the forum 🙂 Great choice of car. Personally I much prefer our era of the sportbrake as I think the later ones just don't seem to have quite the same good looks (still handsome, just not quite as good). Regards John

Hi All, I’ve posted some photos in the gallery under “Simply Jaguar 2024” if you want to take a look

Hi, i'm new here, I have a beautiful XJS that I need to sell, any advice on best place to do this would be much appreciated. Is this forum a good place to sell?

Hi all, Had my Jaguar XF for a few weeks now and aside from the coolant manifold splitting in half and needing a DPF clean it has been wonderful. I am having issues with the Bluetooth and getting music to play from my iPhone via the iPod USB port however. Also cant get DAB signal but I have figured that is due to the rear window tint. I am also having the wheels refurbished to silver as I am not keen on the bronze

Unless I am mistaken HDI and LED headlight have to be self levelling and must have headlight washers as well. Geoff.

Being a law obiding individual I took Charlie to the vets this week to get him "chipped". Very disappointed with the outcome though. No faster and certainly no better economy. (Charlie, by the way, is a half bred Bengal)

I'm going to be absolutely blunt about this. I believe the industry is corrupt and needs strict regulation. Apart from some of the ridiculous questions they ask (what the hell does your job, if it doesn't involve using the car, or your marital status got to do with insuring your car?), there is absolutely no reason or excuse for one insurance quote to be double (and often much more) that of a similar quote. It's blatant profiteering based on nothing but the hope that people will find it too much hassle obtaining multiple quotes. I wouldn't mind so much but you're effectively paying for a piece of paper anyway. Nothing physically happens unless you have an accident, nobody has actually done anything except printed out a document and posted it to you. And most of the time they encourage you to do it online so they don't even have to do that. You're just subsidising those who do have accidents. I was recently charged a £20 admin fee when I had to update my insurance details because I changed my car. Why? I completed all the details online and nobody at Hastings had to do anything at all, so why am I being charged for completing my own form? The whole industry is just one giant scam in my opinion.