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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!

Yes it will as it is purely mechanical.🙄

Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.

I don’t think I’ve posted before, so hello. Im Matt owner of a X-Type 2.2 Sovereign estate. Photo credit.. Image taken from Moves like Jaguar You Tube Video JBC @ JLR Classic

Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!

You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.

The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Alex, here is the electrical manual for your car that will help you narrow it down; http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/Elect-Tech All2/2012 XF - X250Comp.pdf

Hi Alex I would expect you to be getting DTC codes if you are getting dashboard error messages It is possible you need Jag specific software. Have you checked the Fuel Pump Driver Module? Also I would re-check the need to recode a new fuel pump as Gemini (AI search) suggests it is needed. This might also help if you have not already found it. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/XFWorkshopManual/Fuel System.pdf Good luck John

Very good condition inside and out. Looks fantastic and drives even better.Full service history, main agent with me and previous owner ( friend) . 9 months MOT left on vehicle. ONLY 51,000 miles on the clock. Must sell as House sold and no garage at new house ! £11,995 ONO

Hi all, I am looking for advice to help me put my new (to me) 2012 Jag XKR Convertible to sleep for the long Canadian winter. She is currently tucked away in my heated garage with a full tank of premium gasoline with fuel extender added. I plan to start her up every 3-4 weeks or so to keep the circulation going and ensure her battery remains strong. Can any members can offer advice or other measures I should follow to avoid issues in the Spring? I welcome your thoughts. Dave

Hi, my name is David, first time Jaguar owner. Fell in to it as I was looking for a 7 seater Citroen C4 Grand Picasso for days out with the grandchildren. However, when my current car came up, I couldn’t leave it. It’s a 3litre V6 twin turbo XFS on a 2010 plate with 77,000 on the clock. Can’t believe thats it’s mine, when I go out each morning. Last big executive car was a Vauxhall Omega Elite Estate 3lt V6 Auto on an 89 plate. Kept for several years. Bever thought I would have anything again so comfy.

Welcome to the forum Tommy, enjoy.😊

Send your friend to the Jaguar Classic Parts website and browse there to find his model and all of the relevant parts diagrams. Link here: Xk8 Coupe/convertible 1997 - 2006 (x100) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts he will need to know his VIN - number in the bottom corner of the windscreen. N6 JMX

2.2 for me ,quality over tech

Hopefully this will help you out; airbag code 16 indicates a passenger seat weight sensor CAN fault. This means there's a communication issue with the sensor that detects if someone is sitting in the passenger seat. The CAN (Controller Area Network) is a communication bus that various modules in the car use to talk to each other, and the fault code suggests a problem with the signal from the passenger seat weight sensor being transmitted over the CAN. Here's a more detailed explanation: Passenger Seat Weight Sensor: This sensor is located under the passenger seat cushion and is designed to detect the weight of a person sitting there. CAN Fault: The CAN bus is a communication network that allows different modules in the car to exchange data. If the passenger seat weight sensor is not communicating properly with the other modules (like the airbag control module) via the CAN, it will trigger code 16. Possible Causes: Faulty weight sensor under the seat. Wiring or connection issues in the passenger seat weight sensor circuit. A problem with the CAN bus itself (less likely). Faulty passenger airbag module.

That's an idea. If the Key Fob doesn't like it I reckon that I would so it seems like a win win to me, at least something to drown the sorrows with !

Thanks for the information it's appreciated. It is the middle module the one in the footwear drivers side. I have obtained the SDD and am in the process of reprogramming it to the car, I had the old one cleared byMuggles in Lincoln, so far so good

Thanks for the information it's appreciated. On to the next step, thanks again

Thanks, BiK3rz. It is a 2.0d. Appreciate your advice. Think I'll give this one a swerve.

Click on the picture and expand it when it comes up.

Sorry yes it was...

Hi all I have a 2011 2.2d xf, the car is great when cold accelerates great no issues, on long motorway runs again no issues, but when I drive around town about 7-10 miles stop start I get some series acceleration issues, the car is very unpredictable sometimes it pulls away slowly and picks up gradually, other times it pulls away lime a snail and very slowly picks up, I have no error codes or fault lights, I have changed the MAF sensor, had the EGR valve programmed out of the ECU and changed all filters and can't find the issue, when the problem occurs if I put my foot to the floor it revs to about 3000 rpm but doesn't pick up and the gears are snatchy, I have had the transmission serviced and checked and that if fine any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi Rob, it may be best to show your location as "Non UK" - that way there is no confusion on the Forum as to regards where you are located. I initially thought it a touch strange when you posted about being "across the water" but had Bedfordshire as your location - appreciate we Scots sometimes consider "England" to be "across the water". N6 JMX

Hi Robert, welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring - enjoy. N6 JMX

Hi Jas Personally i would walk away. Probably looking somewhere close to at least 1/3 of the cost of the of the car as a minimum and there are plenty of decent ones around as alternative purchases. Good luck John

Hi Karl, that is strange. Have you managed to get a code reader to see if there are any stored codes held in the "brain"? Incidentally, when you disconnect the battery, touch the negative cable to the positive terminal / cable which will discharge any residual capacitance in the system. I can't understand why the multiple disconnect and reconnect of the battery ultimately encourages it to start. In terms of the not starting, even a modern car only needs 3 things to start, air, fuel and a spark. Assuming you have a decent spark as you indicate it runs okay once started, it might be time to look at the fuel supply. Additionally, air leaks on the inlet side can create a problem - try a smoke test to see if there are any leaks. Good luck. N6 JMX

once you find a battery, try the battery mega store, order before 12 and get it next day, a lot cheaper than most shops cheers Joe

Here's a little top tip, not applicable to all Jaguar Models, but certainly quite a few. It transpires that if someone uses the vanity mirror within the sun visors and does not slide the cover closed afterwards, the vanity light can stay illuminated. It should go out when the ignition is switched off, but if left on indefinitely, there is the potential for a fault to develop such that the vanity light stays on, even with the ignition off. Takeaway is to always ensure that the sliding cover is closed on the vanity mirror after use and not simply the sun visor flipped upwards. N6 JMX

Hi to all my fellow Jag owners. My journey to Jag ownership has not gone as I planned and started last year when I decided to act my age and sell my 350z because it wasn't getting used enough to warrant it and wanted to go old school with something really basic like an Austin 8 or similar. Then the plan was to end nearly 30 years of Range rover ownership by swapping my L320 sport for a F pace. This is where it all went off on a tangent. While watching Bangers n cash the wife took fancy to an E type which was out of budget but got me thinking you see where this is heading. XK8's are now the focus but finding a rust free example for the budget wasn't happening so up the budget till we hitting X150 territory and after weeks of searching and hundreds of miles I became the owner of a 2009 5 litre XK. To say I'm happy is an understatement what an awesome car just can't wait for the weather to improve so I can get some serious miles in it but what about the plan of an F pace well the rangee has a buyer lined up and the F pace should be here next week but I can't help the feeling I might have bit to much off but only time will tell. Pete.

If it were the pads freeing from the disc after being parked to go cold, there would only be one "clunk", or at least one "clunk" per side. Can you confirm how many "clunks" are being heard and also clarify: 1. Is the clunk heard only when the front wheels are turned to full lock? 2. When you first engage reverse, do you travel any backward distance with the wheels pointing straight, i.e. no lock applied? 3. And if so, is there no clunk whilst travelling straight? 4. Is the clunk apparent whether you are reversing out of the driveway to turn right, or left or both? 5. If only with the wheel rotated to turn left, or right, which lock is being applied when the clunk appears, i.e. left hand down or right hand down? 6. If you look into the wheel arch of the nearside front wheel, use a torch, can you see any indications where the leading edge of the turned wheel may have contacted the wheel arch? N6 JMX

Hi Russell, I think you will find that these are not for any specific Jaguar model from the period. Instead they are an early period modification to incorporate "knock-on" spinners to the hub caps of, probably, some of the big saloon models of the day - e.g. the Mk VI. N6 JMX

Hi There a lever inside the heandlight that you can flick and its alters the headlight pattern, no need to swap them but this is only possible on the HID headlights if you have halogen ones, then I think you would have to use the stick on bean benders or swap the lights, halogen ones are not interchangeable with HID ones as the wiring is different. Cheers Joe