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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/21/2019 in Posts

  1. 1 point
    Hi Jon, I was plagued with this issue during the last six months of the XF warranty. The agents were good enough to show me how to drain the fuel / water separator, which was a very easy job to do. (several times a week), It was obvious there was no water in the diesel. Six months down the line, with the warranty just expired, they diagnosed a faulty sensor, and replaced the filter unit, charging me £100+ Quite annoying ! In answer to your question, yes you can do it yourself.
  2. 1 point
    Hi Jon, Easy DIY. Done it myself for the same reason. See here for an overly elaborate but really very useful guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BBZ7V9NfQYU Good luck, Ian
  3. 1 point
    Hi David....welcome to the Club Plenty of information throughout the forum and dedicated XK sections. Any other info you require about Jaguars then feel free to ask away Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor
  4. 1 point
    Hi Michael, welcome to the forum, sills look good, underside looks scabby but representative. I had mine cleaned off and sealed, to neaten it up and offer some protection. A filthy job a didn't fancy myself so paid ~£200 for. Well worth it in my book, peace of mind etc 😉
  5. 1 point
    Check the battery or replace could be 6 or 7 year old and not up to full power ???
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Hi Mark, Never had an XF but I have an XE, absolutely love it but I would almost class it as a 2+2, the driver and passenger can relax in luxury, the back seat is fine for kids but adults on a long run will feel cramped. A super car but not really a family car.
  8. 1 point
    Hi Lucian....welcome to the Forum Plenty of information within the forums especially on servicing the XF, best to use the search facility on the top right corner of your screen Good to have you onboard
  9. 1 point
    My JAG XF 3.0 Diesel Portfolio has been a great car for the 6.5 yrs I have owned it. 110,000 miles. Serviced by independent Jag garage. MOT till April 2020. Black leather interior, heated front seats and heated steering wheel. Good tyres. Bodywork pretty good - a nice blue. A few dinks from over the years. Parking sensors, rear camera. It has developed a problem that my garage says is a leak from the inlet manifold and cam cover assembly. It runs but goes into Restricted Performance Mode and acceleration can be very sluggish. Will eventually get up to 90 mph. The cost of repair to me is not worth it. Been quoted over £1k plus VAT and maybe car is worth £3.5k without faults. I am willing to sell for £2k so ideal for someone who can fix this themselves. I am located in Berkshire. Happy to answer any questions and for inspections.
  10. 1 point
    Hi what was the conclusion to this please mine is doing exactly the same!! Thanks
  11. 1 point
    Fitch Autos (RAC approved garage & DPF specialists) Unit 5, Fitch autos ltd Industrial estate 6 Chase Road Brownhills Walsall WS8 6JT This place that fixed mine were brilliant. Very knowledgeable about DPF's and saved me £3990.00. I am still in discussion with JLR over there diagnostic equipmnet and or Technicians. They are still claiming the technicians did what the equipment told them to do. My arguement is that regardless what the equipmnet said, the DPF did not need replacing. Had the technicians had deeper knowledge they could of done the further checks etc. I have since been told the DPF's are only about £2000.00 to jag but they doubled the price!! regards Gareth
  12. 1 point
    Hi Trevor, I will give the boot polish a try, thanks. Cheers Rod
  13. 1 point
    Happy new year Joe ---your help and info through the year is a credit to you and I think we all thank you very much . Frank
  14. 1 point
    the belt tensioner is the only one that moves, the wheel is fixed to a alloy arm that has a 3/8 square in it, your 3/8 ratchet slot into the arm which is spring loaded, by turning it one way it releases the belt tension,you have to hold it there while you remove the belt off any roller, letting go of it causes it to spring back its spring return so the tension is self setting refitting is reverse, put the belt on all the other rollers, then rotate the last one the tensioner, hold it there and slip the belt back on look at the video above at 3:04, he puts the 3/8 ratchet into the tensioner and releases the tension. its also worth taking a few pics with your phone of where the belt runs, as it quickly forgotten once removed cheers Joe
  15. 1 point
    Just an update , I changed the tensioner and all pullys , the belt size to bypass the air con is 6pk1228 now installed and working fine.
  16. 1 point
    Complete jaguar V12 engine including starter, alternator etc for spares or repair was removed from running car. Offers
  17. 1 point
    Hi if you only drive around the town, your allways going to get dpf issues no matter how much additive you put in Peter uses Millers Eco plus Diesel cheers Joe
  18. 1 point
    Hi Pete...welcome to the Club Hope all goes to plan Good to have you onboard
  19. 1 point
    Hi Ray.....welcome to the Club It's never too late to become a Jaguar driver and the XF is a fine machine to own Good to have you onboard Cheers, Trevor
  20. 1 point
    Welcome to the Club, Paul. The Jaguar experience is quite unique and the saying of Bill Lyons who was the co-founder of the company "Grace, Pace and Space" is true. Enjoy. Regards, Peter.
  21. 1 point
    thanks very much paul i will book it in garage as i have 2 years warranty on it. it gives me something to ask about when i put it in . thanks regards malcolm
  22. 0 points
    I didn't think it would be long before this issue raised its ugly head, but behold, split cam covers and throttle body strike again... I posted this previously in the XF section before i drowned her, and now the XJ has the same... A word for the wise.. A replacement paper air filter from JLR is £25, do not be tempted to go for a K&N reusable filter thinking that you can save on the annual cost of a throw away item... its contaminated my MAF sensor, Bank 1, throwing up fault codes and RP every day, although the underlying issue of the split cam covers is yet unresolved. A quote from JLR that is akin to selling a kidney, however from experience it is not a hard job to do if you don't mind a little obscure modification to the fuel rail bracket in order to get the last remaining cam cover bolt off... All in all, the last outing took me 4 hours (with fastidious cleaning included) and cost me the price of the Bank 1 cover @ £218 and 3 injector seals at £2. For anyone experiencing the same, tell tale signs of imminent or actual failure are Restricted Performance on the dash, the above mentioned error codes and a build up of oil under the throttle body housing, directly above the coolant pipe assy between the banks. You cannot fix the issue as its a poorly made (probably part French) plastic welded part. The older more susceptible parts start with 4S7Q part numbers, whereas the revised later part starts with a 9. I am contemplating taking the failed part to my local engineering guy and getting him to build me an aluminium 'cap' to replace the plastic version - This would simply clip on with a large rubber O ring and hopefully stop any repetition. Cam covers are now on their 11th revision and are visibly different on the top section as opposed to the factory fitted 2009 - 2012 versions. New Cam covers come with the required gaskets. Injector removal requires a little dexterity and patience and contrary to popular belief, the high pressure lines can be reused once , saving another £145 from any potential bill. Oil residue between the banks was dealt with a liberal spraying of Gunk (in a spray bottle) - Aerosols tend to spray everything everywhere you do not want it. Then removed the resulting sludge with the wife's brand new Wet & Dry vacuum cleaner. I can safely report back that i shared my success with her, and she has appointed her solicitor as a result and i have forgotten just how soft the Sofa is to sleep on...

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