JustBadly

I bought one of these this summer. More practical than a full cover and I can pop it on at work to stop the interior from being cooked. I think mine is a medium size. Car half cover

The CCM will cut the Aircon if the refrigerant pressure drops too low as well as too high. Call in to Halfords and buy the kit or visit an Aircon specialist.

There are 5 blend motors, remove them and disassemble. Clean and regrease the carbon tracks. Download the workshop manual for a guide. A gurgling sound on startup is low refrigerant for Aircon. Halfords sell a R134a refill kit but fill in stages, it's easy to go over pressure.

I have made diagrams from the workshop manual that detail my 'S' rust issues and prevention. Cheap to fix and effective. Since rust is a major issue can we have a rust sticky thread?

I don't think a permanent treatment exists. Every year I'll put the 'S' on the ramps and spend a few hours underneath abrading and paint the subframes. The paint gets blasted off in places over the winter, so the next year, same job.

Aircon display has been flashing on/off and after watching a few videos I figured why. A guy with a Ford truck said the Aircon was switching on and off - he could see the pulley being disengaged and said it was low on refrigerant. Since the Jag pulley is always engaged logic says the next warning would be a flashing display. So I bought the STP Aircon kit from Halfords, this is for R134a. The inlet port is under the vehicle, besides the front left wheel! I connected the gauge and there wasn't any measurable pressure but since it had still been able to cool the cabin, and there were no obvious leaks (UV light) - I started the fill process. It took about 10 minutes, STP recommend to agitate the canister and before long it was completely empty! Now the pressure gauge read full and after a test ride everything appears OK. There are cheaper kits available but STP make pretty good stuff and the gauge applicator is reusable + Halfords give a £10 refund on the canister.

I have drilled disks on the front and plain rear, yes the front is nosy. I have Mintex pads and the dust is fairly low. I also removed the front inner dust shields. This is to reduce heat on the front, with the dust shield the front disk can be so hot it fades. They are not mandatory, I have retained then on the rear disc since it is a single piston and doesn't get nearly so hot.

Some are still working but since the original circuit is putting 1amp thru the LEDs, it's only a matter of time. Most likely the replacement will have no backlight, but since I have shown you what to do, £25 will cover parts and tools. Not bad.

Running this Jag I noticed oil collecting in the induction manifold when, if ever I removed the lower flap motor. This was a complete mystery to me since the manifold casting had no oil feed! I finally tracked it down and a catch tank is the answer. The breather catch tank is off the right valve cover, i had to add a 180° pipe for the tank to fit.

I did this a few years ago. It's not the same style tank but still had the paperclip retainer. https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/replacing-the-expansion-tank-retainer-clip.118553/

If I am working on the car and a wheel is off, when I have a break I put up netting over the work area. Scares the kids into leaving well alone. No accidents, squashed people, paperwork, etc.

Decided to buy one after last winter and how the Jag crank rate drops in cold weather. So the car was sat for 5 full days and the battery had dropped to 11.9v. I've got a voltage monitor on the centre console and when I connected the power leads it raised to 13.8v, not seeing any point waiting I turned the ignition to start and it started really well. What a tool! After starting the charge on the jump starter had dropped to 84%,

I've had them in for over a year and they are working fine. If you want the product details I can do this. The sales page showed part dimensions and I was able to compare emitter height vs standard filament. Once I had that I knew the beam pattern would be identical to a standard bulb - except much brighter! Having said that, main beam isn't too bad but standard dip beam is almost dangerous. These sort it out and are comparable to HID.

Best headlights ever, makes it look like daylight. Dip beam has a fan, full beam does not. Recent changes to the mot mean that led lights can be used on a vehicle when not original equipment, providing the beam pattern is satisfactory.

I think it is a diesel and the injectors need to be reseated since gas from the compression stroke is leaking past them.

Water from the windscreen runoff gets between the glass and the cowl. Seal that up to stop the water. Check the cowl drain isn't blocked. Water onto the engine is never good. What engine is that? Looks like a diesel.

Found the ground point, it's at the top right of the screen. Power-in is near the base of the screen. Anyways, the all the connections check out it's the screen that's at fault. Can't even buy a new one because the screen companies require insurance details to replace it. Will have to wait for a big crack.

Where will I find the earth connector on the windscreen? RHS is not working and I've checked the supply side of the circuit, which is all ok. Everything's good from the +12v supply, the trigger from the AC unit, relay link, cable from fuse box to the windscreen connector. Which leaves the negative strap from the windscreen, don't want to waste time and skin from knuckles.

So I removed the centre bolt for the flywheel, about 175nm I think. Next I had to purchase a 4" puller and cut the arms in half. This allowed a smaller pull radius since the V6 flywheel is dinky, it didn't take much force to remove it. The old crank seal came out with the seal pick, a little stubborn but no drama. In with the new one and I must say it is important to use a press-kit and don't over insert the seal, keep an eye on it and leave it flush with the engine casing. The flywheel was next and I had to make a thin washer as the bolt was short when it came to pressing on. With that on I tightened it to about 150nm, I will check again in a week but that was enough for me that day. Took about 5 hours although I didn't have to drain the water coolant.

If you've got time, swap the catalyst sensors over between exhausts. If the fault changes side it's the sensor. If it stays it's the catalyst.

Putting the tools together.

Anyone replaced the front crank seal, and did a universal crank seal tool kit do the job?

I did a silly thing on Saturday, I dismantled and cleaned the throttle body! After 98k the sides were coated with a thick oily residue. Amazingly, the engine characteristics have changed. The transmission is smoother, it revs freely and it starts with a roar. I think this is because the idle/low rpm was rich before the cleaning! So there are several reasons why the ZF can give odd running.