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Armoured

My X type is Jagatha, I was watching Vikings when I first got her and wife caught me drooling over Lagatha in the series, she then named the car Jagatha and said the Jag can be my one and only mistress 🤣

I wasn't aware of the 2 litre having a dpf, if the last owner say's he has removed it then I would imagine he would have blanked the Egr too, It is easy to check, the dpf would be visible on the exhaust system near the front as a large canister and if it has been gutted there may be welds on it that don't look like original factory welds, I am not aware of a delete pipe but the last owner could have had one made, also the egr would have a blank between the Egr and the manifold, there are companies that would be able to stage 1 remap the ecu, deleting the egr and dpf if it has one and also add around 30hp which makes the fueling and gear change better and making the car a lot more user friendly. I have been quoted £250 for egr delete and stage 1 mapping.

I did the Mr muscle on mine when I first got her, Drilled and tapped a hole in rear and injected a load of it in, left it for an hour while I was pulling the egr and inlet manifold to give both a good clean, I worked the actuator arm back and forth every now and then to make sure the Mr Muscle was getting everywhere. Had no ill effects and apart from a cough, a little splutter and a load of smoke coming out, she was much better on a run and idled better too. Handy tip for you, the folding straw cap on a wd40 can fits on the Mr muscle and makes it easier to get right inside.

Thanks for the reply Marty, Yeah I'm the same when it comes to quote or reply. The Boost hose goes from the intercooler up to the egr valve, mines in 2 peices with the sensor in between, not sure about the S types, never seen under the bonnet of one. I'll sort a blank out ands leave everything in its place, my mot bloke is a good guy and doesn't mind it being blocked off just has to be in place. I have to do the glow plugs before winter, I'm going to soak them for a few days before and after a journey, I heard they can be a pain, I watched a video on you tube on how to use a kit for removing a broken one, I have heard about the throttle body butterfly mod, haven't looked into the pro's and con's, I will do though. Regarding your S Type, Have you found any water puddled or dripping?, I had a 4x4 once that randomly lost a little coolant on booting it, turns out I had a weep from the water pump. I've just done a full clutch change on mine, next up is oil and filter change then Air con recharge, after that tyres then full suspension and some bushes and lastly a wheel bearing. After all that is done I'll book it for a remap.

On mine the volume and other wheel works as does the source button but the voice button acts as a mute button. I was told , If you have the blue tooth module It works and if you don't then the buttons do sod all.

Hi, jag lovers, I joined this club as cannot find clear answers elsewhere which included speaking to my local garage and Jaguar Land Rover in Stockport and searching youtube and the internet. I am helping my elderly friend get his X Reg (November 2000) back on the road after being idle for over 12 months. Just MOT'd in April 2024 but the battery was replaced (mystery drainage - kept going flat even though newish) and lost radio access,.. The owner had used up 9 attempts (no documents, relied on memory) and the 10th attempt failed using the code supplied by Jaguar. However, I may have input it wrongly, I have now got a code today from ebay (based on the radio/cassette serial number beginning PFY MOO followed by 4 numbers) for £2.95 and it differs from the Jaguar Land Rover supplied one (based on car reg only). The ebay seller told me that I have only 3 more attempts and the radio will be toast if code input wrongly on the 13th time. What I need is the correct process please for entering the code(s). The one from Jaguar is 3895 and the one from ebay is 9305. However, the original radio/cassette/CD player does not have the later display bells and whistles, and no A/MEM button; only push buttons numbered 1 to 6 (see pic below). So how do i enter a zero? On this forum there is a brief description but the pdf document attached in no longer downloadable. Can anyone help us, please, with tried and tested authentic information? Thanks. By the way the seller from ebay helped me unlock the radio - press button 6 and hold for 8 seconds (per Ford car radios, apparently.) I just need now to enter the code.

Thank for your input Jim, not sure about the grill but will check anyway, I have listened to all speakers today and have found that the crackling is only on the front door small top speaker and the tweeter on both doors, all other speakers ok, this is happening after about 5 mins just sat in the car without the engine running. Thanks again. Arnie.

Here is the front right; https://www.amazon.co.uk/Height-Sensor-C2C2242-Jaguar-Suspension/dp/B0CM4SXSR2

Thanks - we sent it a way for repair but no luck.

Thanks to all for replying going to have to use CTEK on more regularly as not done this before as always.started first time after 3/4 weeks away. Then have put ctek zone for a few hours before taking car out for first run after getting back from the holiday The battery is 2 and a half years old and make same as originally fitted Always double lock but going down to Independent later this week to get advice and battery check . Don’t know if he can check battery drain but will ask as he has all the gear!

This will help you out and also aid in understanding the system. http://jagrepair.com/HydRoofManualOperationxk8.htm

Hello Again, Update: I have contacted Jaguar direct to try to shame them into supplying the bearing, waiting to hear. There are no suppliers who can provide or who even stock this centre bearing and even prop shaft re-manufacturers cannot seem to get hold of them. Not even as an aftermarket item. I did get a part number if that's any good to members its C2Z 14185 C2Z 14185 (Dont know why its repeated, possibly for the front and rear sections)

Many thanks Jim. Sounds as though it'd going to be search the breakers time! It will need a respray anyway, so may as well get one from a breakers and spray it, rather than mess around trying to repair it.

Registration number S12 OOC for sale on retention certificate. Somebody naughty might put a black fixing pin in the letter C to make it read S1 2000, but i do not recommend it. Offers Mobile 0771 257 8724

Thanks for that. As you probably know, the User Manuals are not very helpful. Red light, refer to Main Dealer. By using his, non Jaguar, diagnostic kit and his mobile phone, the Green Flag guy seemed to pick up fault codes so, hopefully my local garage will be able to do the same. The owner used to race cars so, he should know what he’s doing 🤞🤞 l will let you know what transpires and, thanks for the input 😎

Pretty good chance it is the MAF sensor

I am in the process of removing the A pillar inside trim on my 2011 XK, left hand drive model. After researching the process to remove the trim it seems that it should simply pop or pry off if necessary. The bottom of the trim seems to be loose but the top absolutely will not release. My car also has the microphone mounted near the top of the trim panel. Is the microphone attached such that it is keeping the trim from releasing? The microphone has two rivets attaching the back to something behind the trim. It looks like I may need to drill out the rivets to release the microphone and the trim. I wonder if anyone has experienced the same problem. Thanks in advance!

You’re welcome, Paul. If you intend to remove the battery then always the negative first.

I have been thinking about it and still think the problem is a jolt to a rotating part is setting off a resonance. But that requires sufficient freedom of movement to allow the parts to physically move so if it were the propshaft there should be play in the bearings / their mountings or the rubber / Universal joints themselves. Likewise in the driveshafts but the driveshafts do hve a built in abilty to move vertically at the wheel so possible more likely??? Do let us know how you get on. Good Luck.

Prime suspect with these symptoms is the key itself - if you have a spare key, try that before anything else. There is an RF-ID chip inside the key, these can fail at any given moment in time with no warning. If they do, the car will not turn over. Also try locking/unlocking several times in a row with the remote fob.

About 90 miles ago (after a 30 mile motorway dash) the red warning light shaped like an engine came on and stayed on , i.e. "engine/transmission emissions issue" . Had a diagnostic this morning ... nox sensor and injector need replacing! But - after being on continuously for 3 days/90 miles the light didn't come on when I started up this afternoon and has stayed off throughout an hours drive ... ??!! Any ideas/similar experience please? Thanks in advance

Have a leak coming from lower reservoir tank. This has happened 4 years ago. To buy a new tank isnt expensive but the labour charge is. My question is why do you need this additional tank. Why cant the pipes from expansion tank be enough. Sorry if this is a silly question but im not a mechanic.

Thanks Gents, literally just found the hose I needed at a dealership in Ireland. Managed to find someone with access to Jaguar stock list. Apparently I managed to snag the only one in the UK. I did consider the custom hose route, that was going to be my next move if Jaguar couldn't supply them. All back on the road now.

Thanks, Jim. I haven't seen a function to allow me to have the rear view camera on without reverse being seleected but I will investigate further. The 2016 model doesn't normally suffer from the boot wiring issue of the earlier models but I must admit that the wiring was my initial thought. My local garage are pretty good on electrical issues and they tell me that they have encountered many issues with JLR cameras.