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its the Battery it Sounds as though it hasn't been used in a while ???

I’ve no idea of the age of the battery I’ve only had the car just over a year

Hi again after the battery was on charge all day it was testing at 14.4v, my stop start was working before this all started so Im thinking the batterys are in good health. After fitting the battery to the car this afternoon after being on charge all day nothing happened couldn't get an interior light to come on or even the hazards absolutely nothing dead.

Merry

I bought S-type 2003 that wasn't running. I've never seen soooo many codes. Guy i bought it from wasn't mechanical inclined and never took it to a shop. Won't start, where do i start?

I agree with Dave and I think its a battery problem ???? How old is the battery ???

I'd strongly advise getting the battery drop-tested by your local auto-electrician. That's showing about 60% charge at 12.4V, i would expect more to be honest if it hadn't turned over. This suggests the battery has lost its capacity to deliver current but the only way of doing it is to either get it drop-tested or measure the voltage while trying to start.

This was after we removed the battery and the car was acting dead. Never tested it when trying to start it. Thanks for the reply

At what point did you measure the 12.4V on the battery? When you first took it off the car or what? Also have you measured the battery voltage while trying to start?

Hi my jaguar keeps acting like it’s got a flat battery. I parked up the other day and when I came back it was flat then 5 mins later started no problem. Then yesterday it done the same thing but this time it never came back to life we have tried a booster pack on it and it will only try to start when u put it in boost mode u get a couple of turns then flat again. Thinking the battery is flat we have took it off and put it on charge but it had 12.4v in it when I put a multimeter on it so I’m confused. The battery terminals are tight I’ve checked both bcm’s the one in the boot and drivers side footwell for water damage but can’t see any I’ve not took the plugs out and looked at them yet that’s my next plan and the starter motor cable for corrosion. Any help would be much appreciated as I’m lost now.

My F Pace has done 42,000 miles. Turbo gone. I recently changed rear tyres and wondered why one was more worn than the other. Jaguar had fitted different tyres on rear!

A few things come to mind, first is what fluid did they use in the gearbox? Second, what condition is the battery in? If the battery is not holding its charge that well, it can cause spurious faults on the gearbox ECU and other ECUs as well. The clue here is that it happens after a cold start, when there has been the most load on the battery to start it. By the time you've started it for the third time in the day, the battery would (or at least should) have enough charge to cope with a warm start without dropping the voltage enough to cause a spurious fault. As you might guess, my thoughts are directed at the battery being at fault here! Recently on my S Type, i hadn't used it for about 3 weeks and when i started, it came up with "Auto Gearbox Fault". I ignored it for a few miles, then hit the clear button and it went off and stayed off - hasn't returned since so i'm assuming that it was just a low battery. Sometimes it will also try and tell me a tail or brake lamp (sometimes both on both sides!) have failed as well if i haven't used it for a couple of weeks.

My apologies for not answering your question. I decided to just leave it at the time and of course now that its getting warmer I am regretting that decision lol. I will update on this if I get it done this year. Using the car a lot less at the moment so I can do most journeys with an open window.

Thank you Trevor for finding this out. I was thinking that it probably had more to do with my inept computer skills. I did find it and am just about to attach an update to it. Many thanks and my sincerest apologies for casting any doubt as to the running of this page

Sloshed

Hi Ashley Can you just clarify? When you say "it's all gone" do you mean the dipstick shows no oil in the engine? How much oil was on the ground? Is there any obvious leakage in the engine bay or under the car? Any warning lights? Did the engine sound normal before you stopped? Any smoke from the exhaust? Regards John

XK8 Key Fobs – A Repair, Sort Of……. Some thoughts, some ramblings, some ideas and one “sort of” solution about the LJA 2610BA XK8 4 Button Key Fob. I’m sure you all know the scenario. You walk up to the car and press the ‘Unlock’ Button and hey presto, nothing happens. You dance around the car, often hopping on one leg, whilst under your breath reciting ‘Abra Cadabra’ ( or some other words which I can’t possibly repeat here ) pressing and holding the button, waving it around the roof and ‘C’ pillars hoping that waving a virtual magic wand cunningly disguised as a Key Fob will actually make it work. The final incantation of ‘Open Sesame ‘ doesn’t work either at which point you give up and return indoors for a stiff drink ( strong coffee, what do you think I meant ? ) whilst you change the batteries for the second time in a week convincing yourself that the recently replaced batteries must have been faulty. Of course they aren’t and you are no further forward other than needing to visit the loo for a comfort break after supping even more coffee. I know that you could have opened the door with the key and listened to the countdown of the Alarm about to unleash all hell on me and the rest of the neighbourhood if I fail to get the key in the ignition in time to prevent this happening or even if I do manage to do this in time the Alarm fails to disarm and then both the Alarm and myself enter panic mode, I have a ( irrational ? ) fear of this, perhaps I’m not alone in this or is it just me that’s paranoid ? Answers to me on a free voucher for the local psychiatrist. The problem is of course wear on the contact pads of the Rubber Buttons, the solution is to replace the Rubber Pad. I’m talking about the four button one, LJA 2610BA and other similar variants, and here lies the rub. Not that many years ago this type of Fob Case complete with new Rubber Pad were readily available on line for about a fiver, now they all seem to made of that wonderful and oft used classic car material called ‘Unobtanium.’ Over the last few years I have travelled the world, virtually of course, and have found absolutely zero, none, zilch, of these available anywhere so what next ? POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS Repair Services. There are plenty of people out there offering repair/refurbishment of your existing Fobs and I assume that this includes repair of the electronics AND replacement of the Rubber Pads and Case. If so where do they obtain these parts ? These services are priced anywhere from £30 to £200, what the difference in prices may indicate I have no idea, but if all you need is the Rubber Pad even the cheapest is a bit steep. Even so if one of these guys are prepared to sell me just the Rubber Pad I may be prepared to pay over the odds to obtain a couple of spares. I haven’t asked any of them so have no idea if any of these repair services would be prepared to do a deal. The other thing I, probably unnecessarily, worry about using a repair service is the reprogramming of the repaired unit. Everyone seems to think that the reprogramming is a simple task that takes just a few minutes of flashing the lights in sequence and this may well be so, but at this point my paranoia rears it’s head again……. Graphite Buttons Graphite buttons are cheap and readily available. The idea is that you get the right size buttons and then glue them over the worn buttons on your Rubber Pads with some contact adhesive and then the job is done. My worry here is that this may be a one shot only job. If the buttons either don’t stick very well or don’t work for some reason then that’s the end, the contact adhesive will have probably ruined whatever was left of the functionality of your existing buttons, however poor they were they are now a darned sight worse. Consequently I haven’t tried this. Modifying Different Rubber Pads I thought I may have cracked it with this idea. I bought a 5 Button Rubber Button Pad for Jaguar X S F TYPE XJ XK XF XKR remote smart key. It looked like with a bit of judicial trimming and some fettling it would fit inside my Fob and the key markings and spacing looked pretty much the same, as indeed they are. Unfortunately the finger pad part of the buttons do not protrude through the Fob, they are far too shallow. You could extended the finger pads by gluing some rubber or something similar on top of them but you would lose the markings and I think even then the contact part of the buttons would be far too long so constantly touching the contacts and permanently activating the electronics, this would probably confuse the car as much as me and as for battery life….. I think this idea could work if we could discover which type of Rubber Pad could be modified, however I have no clue as where to start on this. My Solution The only solution I can offer right now is using some electrically conductive paint on the contacts of the buttons on the Rubber Pad. The stuff I used is in the pic, other similar products are available and all are easily and cheaply obtainable from well known on line retailers. It’s easy to use. Remove the Rubber Pad from the Fob and clean the contact part of the buttons with Isopropyl Wipes or liquid IPA or similar. Apply a small amount of the “ paint “ to each of the contact buttons and let it dry, make sure it’s totally dry before putting it all back together. I know that you’ll be eager to try and see if it works but be patient ! Whilst you are in the Fob carefully clean the gold contact pads of the PCB, including the battery area, with the IPA stuff or Contact Cleaner, make sure that everything is clean and dry before reassembling it all with new batteries. This repair worked wonderfully on mine, it was like having a brand new Fob, no more dancing around the car like a loony and no more arcane incantations. BUT. ( Why is there always a BUT ? ) This repair worked perfectly for five months and then total failure, not one button worked. Don’t panic, a few minutes work repeating the above procedure followed by a few hours waiting for paint to dry and all is good again. So, far from a real solution or ideal but at least some sort of a cure and if you have to repeat it every few months it’s no big deal. If you’ve read this far through these ramblings you probably have an interest in this problem, if so I’d be happy to hear your thoughts and ideas, Thanks, Nige.

Legless

Eyed

Well what a struggle to find a sensor!! Phone Jag with C2D23151 and they come back with £145 6 pin, go on Brit parts with same number they say £155 6 pin. I took the old one off today and I have a 3 pin go on line with C2D23151 and they come back with a 3 pin at £50!! Please see photos below. Talk about confusing!! Regards Shaun

Hi Matt, I bought my XK8 through SM Autos. The guy there, Sean, was honest and easy to deal with. They are a small 'trader' dealing with a limited stock. Depending on where you live, might be worth considering. Take a look at their website. Pete

wide

Thick

Hi all I has some issues last year with my car, and spent a chunk of cash on new injectors and two new fuel pumps plus other stuff. This was 6 months / 2,000 miles ago (and not sure if there's a linked between the pumps and the problem - they're fitted in the sump I believe!?) and when I drove home last night, I noticed the oil - put a tray under and it's all gone!? Any views?