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Thanks for the reply. He had diagnostics but, not the specific Jag ones. That’s how he thought that it could be a solenoid in the Turbo. No previous warnings. l only drove it as far as the nearest Lay By. I notice that there is some references to ‘actuators’ on this site and, that sounds a possibility. No black smoke. From previous experience, the garage it is booked with is reliable but, the Jag has never been to them. Reluctant to go to Main Dealer due prohibitive labour costs

Did you get any fault codes from the Green Flag folks? Do you have a code reader to plug in and read the codes stored yourself? A red light usually means an immediate stop and investigate, whilst an amber light means stop, investigate and limp home, but don't set off on any long road trips. What does your handbook say for the warning lights? Presumably something like "Consult Main Dealer". N6 JMX

black

Hi l have a 2014 2.2 XF and was overtaking on A34 when Red Warning light came on and, speed Dropped from 70 to about 15. Green Flag eventually turned up and diagnosed problem with Solonoid in Turbo. 150 miles from home, car had to go on Low Loader. Amber Engine Block warning now on as well so, not driving at all Trusted Jag specialist sadly retired so, booked in with recommended non Jag Garage for 20/5. Does this diagnosis sound right and, what sort of cost am l looking at. Only 33,000 on the clock as retired. Thanks Dodge

Matt

Gloss

Just my luck, non in stock at present but we will get there, car still driveable just getting a shudder at 50-60. You would think that all the shafts / bearings are the same circumference 2008 - 15 wouldn't you Regards Peter

Thanks Big John, There are several listed which is a great start I have emailed them for the correct fit to order. Interestingly, even the prop shaft repairers say they cannot get hold of the right item themselves. If it eventually proves good, I will pass on the details to those I have asked to do the refurbishment. Jaguar parts dept wont even provide a part number for it and obviously don't sell it as a separate item. Thanks a lot, I will let you know how I get on. Regards Peter

Have you tried here: https://www.euspares.co.uk/parts-catalog/propeller-shaft-bearing-10939/jaguar/xf/xf-j05-cc9

I am in the process of removing the A pillar inside trim on my 2011 XK, left hand drive model. After researching the process to remove the trim it seems that it should simply pop or pry off if necessary. The bottom of the trim seems to be loose but the top absolutely will not release. My car also has the microphone mounted near the top of the trim panel. Is the microphone attached such that it is keeping the trim from releasing? The microphone has two rivets attaching the back to something behind the trim. It looks like I may need to drill out the rivets to release the microphone and the trim. I wonder if anyone has experienced the same problem. Thanks in advance!

You’re welcome, Paul. If you intend to remove the battery then always the negative first.

Thanks again Jim for your helpful advice. By the way, do i remove the neg or pos lead from the battery?

I have been thinking about it and still think the problem is a jolt to a rotating part is setting off a resonance. But that requires sufficient freedom of movement to allow the parts to physically move so if it were the propshaft there should be play in the bearings / their mountings or the rubber / Universal joints themselves. Likewise in the driveshafts but the driveshafts do hve a built in abilty to move vertically at the wheel so possible more likely??? Do let us know how you get on. Good Luck.

It seems that the centre bearing for the prop shaft on the XF model is unavailable even from main dealers, except as part of a full prop shaft which they will happily sell you at Circa £1,303 plus VAT Such items are available for other Jaguars and for most other car models at costs ranging around £40 or so. This seems like extortion on the part of Jaguar (If Jaguar can get them surely someone must be making them, any ideas or leads?)

Prime suspect with these symptoms is the key itself - if you have a spare key, try that before anything else. There is an RF-ID chip inside the key, these can fail at any given moment in time with no warning. If they do, the car will not turn over. Also try locking/unlocking several times in a row with the remote fob.

I know this is and old thread but I hope someone can still answer my query. Does my year 2000 S Type have any form of PATS or immobiliser ? I ask because my car will not start - all the electrics work but the starter does not function - not even a click of the solenoid. The car was left unused for several weeks and the battery discharged itself and I have been advised this could have caused an immobiliser e to function. If so how do I reset it??? Thanks Steve

I was born in Poland hence S100 bring back many memories as it is somehow similar to what I used to see on the road on a daily basis. Although I never owned one, my father used to drive Fiat 125p and later on FSO Polonez Caro which was hell of a clunker. The comparison to the Tacoma narrows bridge seems to be spot on to what I am experiencing! There is a high chance you are right with the propshaft. I will have it checked too and will post the outcome in case anyone else had something similar in the future. Hopefully it will not end up on a whole propshaft replacement...

Finish

Hi Paul, With your car there is no problem with disconnecting the battery as you don’t have the BMS (battery monitoring system) fitted. I have the icarsoft i930 for mine which is perfect for what I want and it will tell you which sensor is at fault. If you go the icarsoft route then make sure you buy from a reputable source and it is Jaguar specific.

Quit

Morning Jim, Thanks for your comment and video, looks like a pretty straight forward task to change those 2 sensors if that's the problem. Can you recommend the brand of code reader i should buy for my model which is a 2006 X150 4.2? Also, is it really neccessary to disconnect the battery? iv'e heard comment that doing that can cause more trouble!

First time I have heard anyone describe a Skoda S100 as lovely to drive 🙂 It was 988cc with a mighty 42bhp! Incredibly tail happy as the rear swing arms simply "tuck under" when cornering, HOWEVER you could fix it with a set of spanners. From your description I would be focusing on prop shaft and particulalry the UJs. Everything else is fixed, even if through rubber bushes, so should not be able to move without it being detectable at rest with a pry bar. If the Propshaft joints have even a little play they could vibrate and resonate like the tacoma narrows bridge (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tacoma_Narrows_Bridge_(1940)) which sounds like what you are experiencing to me. Also that vibration could well have "bent" something to account for your suspension settings. Good luck John

About 90 miles ago (after a 30 mile motorway dash) the red warning light shaped like an engine came on and stayed on , i.e. "engine/transmission emissions issue" . Had a diagnostic this morning ... nox sensor and injector need replacing! But - after being on continuously for 3 days/90 miles the light didn't come on when I started up this afternoon and has stayed off throughout an hours drive ... ??!! Any ideas/similar experience please? Thanks in advance

I can relate. Used to have Seat Ibiza FL2 1.9 SDI 2000, which at some point gave up and the driver side wishbone just turned into dust while driving, luckily at low speed. At least it was a straight forward - no symptoms then one day, whole car just collapsed on one side. Skoda S100 seems like a lovely car to drive, could not imagine it being a beast 😄 What engine was it? The Jag even though I have that issue for a while, don't want to give up (which is a possitive, I guess!) Yes, multiple times and no crabbing spotted. It is more vertical than horizontal. As if the gas in the shocks is gone or if there was a play in the wishbone bushings. Yet all mechanics claim suspension is in good condition. It has to be something clearly not visible at the first glance. As both rear cambers are out of alignment, one mechanic is pointing towards differential or propshaft. Those might be expensive to repair, hence I want to be sure as much as possible before spending even more money. ...and yes, it was scary at first when the whole body started vibrating on the motorway (rear wheels felt like going up and down constantly even though road was smooth) and it felt like sitting in a helicopter with a spinning washing machine at the back. But nobody found an issue, I could not figure it out either so just kept diagnosing it and still commuting to work, I am still alive so... I am just worried about the stress on all the components and trying to figure out what the heck is happening here.

Have a leak coming from lower reservoir tank. This has happened 4 years ago. To buy a new tank isnt expensive but the labour charge is. My question is why do you need this additional tank. Why cant the pipes from expansion tank be enough. Sorry if this is a silly question but im not a mechanic.