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Help with DTC's & SDD


KDM
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Reaching out for some help as I've hit a wall with understanding why the Cat is not working properly.

So I have the following issues:

1. When driving the car ( or sitting still and revving higher than 3000 ) the car goes into limp mode, DTC not available etc....

2. Recently the key fobs stopped opening/locking doors, the fob still works when inserted and car functions normally.

So I have the following codes:

Instrument Cluster Control Module

U0214-00 This refers to the keyfob issue

P0635-11 This refers to a power steering issue.

HVAC Module

B11FF-84 This refers to lack of gas in system.

BCMB

U0264-00 States ignore this DTC.

U0214-00 No info provided

BCM

U0214-00 No info provided

ABS Control Module 

U0401-68 Invalid data received from ECM/PTC module.

RFA module not responding - tried to test through the SDD but failed.

 

So, I need some help understanding the consequence of the RFA not working and what exactly it is....

Could this be causing the limp mode?

If anyone in the Swansea area ( happy to drive further ) can assist then I am happy to pay ...

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

 

 

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Hi Keith

First thing to check would be the battery. Random codes and problems such as you are suffering are often down to a failing battery. How old is the battery? Have you had it tested / have you tried charging it? Was / Is your stop / start working normally before these symptoms? Has the car been stood for a while / used for short journeys only?

Regards

John

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Thanks John.

The battery is less than 6 months old, and I will remove it and fully charge it and hope it removes some of the codes.

I did try once before with no difference to the car.

What is a short journey? The car travels at least 18 miles each way twice a week, what mileage is minimal for charging the battery?

No stop / start as its a 2009 Model.

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So just to update, having fully charged the battery the issue with restricted performance is still occurring.

Some of the codes have disappeared which may be due to the battery or some of the work I have been applying to the car.

I have cleaned the earth points in the boot, under both front wing liners, and behind front N/S light.

Does anyone know of any more? 

I am working through SDD and its pointing towards ABS issue, am planning to change all 4 sensors this week.

Any other advice or suggestions would be welcome.

 

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Rfa is remote fob somethingorother…It’ll be the module

You don’t tell us what your car and year is. If you disconnected the battery, it may have messed up its security settings, these will have to be reprogrammed via sdd. This happens between the years approx 2012 till 2015

You don’t tell us the codes that are still showing

I would extremely doubt if the abs code is causing the rp - your brakes will still work and I think it would show a light on the dash

Check very carefully the control boxes in the boot and the drivers footwell for any signs of water ingress, plugs too

A usual suspect for rp at your revs is unmetered air getting drawn into the air intake, but that would throw a fault code

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Hi Vic,

The vehicle is a 2008 XF 2.7D.

The codes are in the first message.

The fob stopped working when the battery was disconnected for a week or so, the fob works perfectly when inserted so will try to wake them up through SDD.

The RFA shows a big red cross on when checking the modules on SDD.

Previously there was a fault code with the MAF's so when cleaning didn't work I replaced the two and a new air filter and no fault codes for the MAF for the past 150 miles.

The limp mode is restricted performance / DSC not available..... and with the fault code generated by the ABS ( See first message ) is the reason I was moving towards the wheel sensors.

Three times today with limp mode, so frustrating.

 

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After a thought, I’m starting to lean towards the battery for some of your problems too, the same as the others above. I’ve had a battery before that’s failed after a few months.

The rp maybe different and I’m surprised it’s giving no codes - as I say, a warm favourite is a vacuum leak

The keyfob? I would be trying a new battery in it first if none of the buttons are working - starting the car has nothing to do with the battery in the fob

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Hi Vic,

The vacuum suggestion is good, I know the rubber diaphragms can split and there is a repair kit available.

I will test it first, assuming I can find them.

Tried replacing the batteries with no change, my power supply has arrived so hopefully tomorrow I can wire up the car and use SDD to verify the fob.

Onwards and upwards.

 

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Just to update, replaced the diaphragms and there is a difference to the car, however, the limp mode is still there but more manageable.

However, I have been using SDD to understand the DTC's and I have hit a brick wall and do require some assistance.

If anyone knows of a SDD specialist who can remote assist then please do suggest.

Thankyou in advance.

My thanks to Vic for suggesting the vacuum issue, I will be arranging a smoke test on the turbo side as there maybe a leak that is causing the limp mode.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

So I can rule out the battery, what should be the minimum power in the battery before the car throws a wobbly?

I have measured tonight when I arrived home and its 12.48 V.

Is that too low?

I will check again in the morning in case its draining somewhere.

Appreciate any advice on the voltage.

 

 

 

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Hi Keith.

Not a simple answer but in short I would say yes, that is too low.
A lot depends on when you measured it. The jag, like most modern cars is a shed load of networked computers on wheels. These computers are very power hungry  and like a toddler take their time going to sleep, so will still be drawing power for up to 30 mins after you turn the car off.

I have a bluetooth voltmeter on mine and when I turn mine off after a run I would expect voltage to drop to 12.8v. If I leave the car for a week and it gets below 12.5v I would be connecting my Ctek charger. 12.48v within minutes of shutdown suggests to me the battery is weak or it is not being charged properly by the alternator.... BUT 12.48v should not cause a problem in itself. The question would be what does it drop to when you next try a start?

John

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Hi John,

So I measured the battery this morning, it read 12.16V which is very low.

I opened the doors from a distance and didn't take the key fob as not to activate too many items on the car.

With engine running I measured the alternator output at 14.58V which would appear correct as far as I have read.

So simple test, am charging the battery and will reset ant DTC's, measure battery and then see what happens next.

The battery is less than 12 months old so under warranty.

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If the alternator is outputting 14.58V, can you read that going to the battery? Given the starting point, I would look to insert a battery to the car that I know is good. You indicate less than 12 months old for the currently installed battery, but it may have a dead cell which would explain just about everything the car is throwing up.

Do you have a friendly auto shop, or the place where you purchased your battery that will loan you a good battery to make the checks?

Don't simply jump a slave battery onto the car, remove the original and insert the replacement.

N6 JMX

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The current at the battery from the alternator is reading 14.58V.

I do agree there could be a parasitic draw which does requiring a check fuse by fuse, unless there is a quicker way?

I am charging the battery and will drive tomorrow, let see what happens.

I am still leaning towards the battery as I can drive for one hour and the limp mode still happens which does point to a battery not accepting or retaining charge.

I may get the battery tested tomorrow.

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