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They're a nightmare those things. If you can get onto the screws with some pliers, grips etc. then they should snap pretty easily. If it helps the bumper is surprisingly easy to take off. A screw in each wheel arch about in line with the reflectors and one between the main and dip lamps either side.

I find the lumbar support in my S-type Sport seats a bit lacking. I knew that electrically adjustable support was an option so this week when I was taking bits off an SE spec scrapper that had it I investigated. I assumed it would be a pneumatic system but it's actually a bit cruder than that; It's a diaphragm of spring steel flexed by a little electric motor with a bowden cable to actuate it. I realised that the motor had been fitted early in the assembly process so would not be easy to remove and refit. I also didn't know if my car had the wiring and it definitely didn't have the switch, which was the wrong colour anyway. So I improvised and I have to say for the time it took me it has been one of the best things I've done to the car. What you'll need: The diaphragm from a seat that has adjustable lumbar support OR you could modify the standard one with a bit of bicycle cable and ingenuity. Pair of decent pliers Electrical "choc block" connector or similar Screwdriver to tighten the choc block First thing is to take the back of the seat off. It simply clips in with a couple of those fir tree jobbies. I was a bit ham fisted with the scrap car and didn't break anything. I treated mine with kid gloves and pulled one of the clips off.. Doh! This is the diaphragm in place although I've actually unclipped this one. It will be obvious how it attaches but don't struggle with it, if you do then you're doing it wrong. Just flex the diaphragm the way the spring does but go further. This is the standard one: And this is the adjustable one which is identical save for the spring and cable:: As you can see I cut through the outer and inner of the cable right close to the motor. I then pulled the inner out and cut the outer about an inch shorter, threaded the inner back through and used the choc block to set the tension. You could be swanky and put a ferrule on the end of the outer but it's wound like a bicycle brake outer rather than multi-strand like a gear outer so it's not vital. It's worth pulling the cable fairly tight to begin with and then driving around with the back of the seat off and the pliers and screwdriver handy to adjust it. Once it's set that's it, put the seat back back on. Obviously if different people drive the car it may not suit all of them and you'll have to compromise, but then they already have to compromise what with having no adjustment at all. Adapting a standard non-adjustable diaphragm would not be a simple as using an adjustable one but I'm sure it could be done. Personally I would shorten the spring and heat it up to make a new hook in it a couple on inches further down to attach a cable to. Be very careful bending springs like this, they are brittle and will most likely snap before bending if not hot enough. This how the cable attaches: The standard diaphragm with the spring has just the same attachment point. A BMX type brake cable has a fairly large end which would probably be usable for this. Whether you buy an adjustable diaphragm or just its spring/cable assembly from a breakers or adapt your own this is a totally worthwhile mod that took me less than half an hour all in. I'm now much more comfortable and unable to slouch in my seat even if I wanted to.

I've just had the spare ( genuine Jaguar ) key cut and reprogrammed, with battery £95, at Rapid Car Keys in Sittingbourne. Scott is a really helpful guy and he deleted and reprogrammed both keys for full security. Talking to him about DIY programming he said it only works on pre '04 cars , after that you need the software' If you're in the Swale area and have a key problem 07482 185310 is the number, or www.rapidcarkeys.co.uk 2004 Jaguar S Type X204 3.0 Automatic Zircon Blue