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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .3 points
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Hi all, For information, the Climate Control Unit module (passenger footwell) was defective. Impossible to reach screws, so just cable tied replacement unit to defective unit. Mike2 points
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....also I would check the age of your "new" tyres. Code for date is last 4 digits following DOT on the sidewall, first two are the week number and last two the year. So 0101 would show tyres made in the first week of 2001. If your code is 3 figures they are older than 2000 so are downright dangerous! https://btmauk.com/2021/01/26/dot-code-celebrates-50-year-anniversary/ Regards John2 points
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Having worked most of my life in electrical/electronic engineering, I can confirm there is nothing more frustrating than having to write on the job sheet "NFFAT" - No Fault Found At Test. Over the decades ive had many "Intermittently Intermittent" faults as i call them. Sometimes it's has been a long and extremely annoying process to find the fault and often when i do, i find it's a "Compound Intermittent Fault" - one where two or more problems contribute to not only the intermittent fault but the overall intermittency of it occurring in the first place. I wish you and your autoelectrician luck with finding it, you may have to lose this battle to win the war and come to an arrangement with him whereby he comes to you when it faults to investigate. This isn't just a "Jag thing", it happens to all makes and some are much worse than others! 'Tis the nature of the beast with electrical/electronic systems sadly.2 points
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Hi Lez. At that age you are probably going to struggle to get decent cover as most are limited to 10 years or 100k after which cover limit and items covered drops substantially. There are some that will go to 12 years and 120k but personally at 10yrs I would be going with your AA option and laying aside a couple of hundred a month in a savings account to "self insure" Good luck John2 points
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Hello. I am new to Jaguar and this club, living in North Hampshire. I have a 2017 XF 2.0 D, Recently need timing chain replacement including upgrade to prevent a recurrence. Fortunately covered by dealer warranty. Prior to negotiating the repair I funded a test £200 + vat) on a main dealer rig to know for sure if new chain was needed. Result was clear. Engine now sounds better and seems a bit more responsive. Sorry this may not be of any real help to you, but the failed test result came with dire warnings of possible outcomes if the job was not done. I expect you are aware of these. All the Best and Regards, Brian C2 points
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Free to a good home 1999 jaguar s type front and rear bumpers shells. In mistral blue. Taken from my 1999 3.0 se. Car long gone but have some spares in the garage. Had no plans to get another but now have a 2007 2.7d. So body panels will fit but bumpers a different style Need the space in my garage and they will Free Collection only Message me here Or email [email protected]2 points
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Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!2 points
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Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!2 points
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Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.2 points
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You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.2 points
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The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.2 points
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I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG2 points
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If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.2 points
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did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly2 points
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Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX2 points
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Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar2 points
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Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁2 points
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Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.2 points
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For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX2 points
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Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.2 points
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Hi Andrew, welcome to the Forum, hope it all goes well for you. In future, you may want to post your questions in the correct area of the Forum. This post is in the X-type area and you want to be posting future requests on the 1999 XK8 in the X-100 section, a bit higher up the page. N6 JMX1 point
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Hi Alex, here is the electrical manual for your car that will help you narrow it down; http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Electrical/Elect-Tech All2/2012 XF - X250Comp.pdf1 point
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Had a similar problem on a peugot 206cc turned out there was a bearing sitting on top of the strut that had cracked after the previous owner hit a pothole. Think from memory there is a rubber damper on the top of the strut on the jags also1 point
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Hi Andy , well chuffed you finally got your jag back on the road , They can be a nightmare at times REGARDS Dave 621 point
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I would agree with your logic, i'm not wildly familiar with the XF but would imagine it's electrical architecture to be similar to the S Type. There is a general module that's in the boot on the S Type (which could be a clue) and i'm not sure what other modules might be involved. I'd suggest checking in the boot, see if you can find any signs of water ingress/dampness, also check your sunroof drain holes/hoses in cae one or both is leaking water into the boot and causing your problem. As for hearing ultrasonic sensors, the clue is in the name - ultrasonic. They tend to operate in the 22-40KHz range, most humans can only hear up to ~18kHz so if someone says they can hear it, check them for bat DNA or assume they're mistaken or very lucky. Good luck with it, let us know how you get on.1 point
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Welcome onboard, lovely looking machine - have many great drives ahead of you. N6 JMX1 point
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Hi Roy, welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring. Be sure to post a few photos when you can. N6 JMX1 point
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That's an idea. If the Key Fob doesn't like it I reckon that I would so it seems like a win win to me, at least something to drown the sorrows with !1 point
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Hi Kevin, first check has to be the tyre pressures, check all round to ensure correct pressures are maintained. Secondly, try the car on a different road, sometimes the carriageway can cause some weird feedback issues through the steering. Can you tell if the steering inputs are working correctly, i.e. car moves under steering control to change lanes properly? Check wheel alignment - all 4 wheels specifically, especially if you have been in contact with potholes recently. Whilst the alignment is being checked, have the mechanic check for any play in the bearings and bushes. Any play in the system can cause the front end to feel "woolly", or floaty. N6 JMX1 point
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Hi Jas Personally i would walk away. Probably looking somewhere close to at least 1/3 of the cost of the of the car as a minimum and there are plenty of decent ones around as alternative purchases. Good luck John1 point
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Just call me "four Jags" Cadwell. Have finally found a car I have always wanted and loved. It's a 2005 S-Type R variant. The big brute with a "proper" V8 and supercharger that still whines and doesn't make any strange noises I know it has a couple of minor faults. One of the headlights is permanently pointing at the ground and there is a bit of interior trim missing on the passenger side A pillar Other than that can't find anything seriously wrong with it and definitely think it's going to be a keeper for an old spanner armed with a hammer So am asking two questions Dear old V8 owners. What have I missed. What is going to go wrong soon or already has and I've not found it yet? What's the going black market rate for a spare kidney? 🙂1 point
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Hi Alan, welcome to the wonderful world of Modern XK motoring. Hope you have many happy miles in yours. N6 JMX1 point
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Hi Liam, there is a company in Byfleet, Surrey, called Cartronics who do lots of upgrade kit for modern cars, including Apple CarPlay for various Jaguars. The website link is below, or you could simply put "Cartronics" into your search engine if you don't like clicking on links. I had some discussions with them in 2024, they know what they are doing, but it is not a cheap modification. Jaguar Media & Sound Upgrades N6 JMX1 point
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Hi Stephen, try looking up DCR AutoParts, they are very good on the X-100 models and getting into the X-150 models as well. https://www.dcrautoparts.com/ The owner, Dave Roche, is always good for advice on those hard to find parts. N6 JMX1 point
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I'm going to be absolutely blunt about this. I believe the industry is corrupt and needs strict regulation. Apart from some of the ridiculous questions they ask (what the hell does your job, if it doesn't involve using the car, or your marital status got to do with insuring your car?), there is absolutely no reason or excuse for one insurance quote to be double (and often much more) that of a similar quote. It's blatant profiteering based on nothing but the hope that people will find it too much hassle obtaining multiple quotes. I wouldn't mind so much but you're effectively paying for a piece of paper anyway. Nothing physically happens unless you have an accident, nobody has actually done anything except printed out a document and posted it to you. And most of the time they encourage you to do it online so they don't even have to do that. You're just subsidising those who do have accidents. I was recently charged a £20 admin fee when I had to update my insurance details because I changed my car. Why? I completed all the details online and nobody at Hastings had to do anything at all, so why am I being charged for completing my own form? The whole industry is just one giant scam in my opinion.1 point

