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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX

I have great news S type jaguar 3.0 2001 Y554BPA coolant tank, fitted today no longer waiting for part jaguar has got this coolant tank in stock.

Hi Sheela, With an 8 year old battery it is simply waiting to fail. These modern cars have so many electronics going on in the background that the quiescent battery drain can be quite high and a car like yours left to sit around for a week or so will have a low battery - even when the battery is relatively new. The recommendation is typically to replace the battery in a Modern Jaguar at 5 years. If I were in your position, I would be looking for a new battery replacement and ensure you get a premium battery for a premium car, AND from a reliable supplier. There have been a number of reports of batteries failing after only a few months, so you want the back-up of a premium supplier for a no quibble exchange. Note that if you plan to change the battery yourself, then the car's ECU needs to be "informed" via a Jaguar diagnostics system that a new battery is in place in order that it can reset the charging rates, N6 JMX

My carpentry skills are non existent! (I mean, I could get a splinter! Or even worse, break a nail! 😱😂) I guess I’ll just have to see if I can find someone that would be willing to take on the challenge, but thank you for your reply ✌🏻🙂

Hi Roy, Well,I’m 69 and now on my second XF. First was an X250 3.0S portfolio (2011). Current one is an X260 3.0 S, loaded with options. To choose between the two is a bit like choosing between your children! First had a better, but dated interior compared to 5e current one. But the current one is loaded with toys and is much, much more fun to drive. Haven’t tried a non sport version of either, so sorry, can’t comment on whether they’re worth it, but if you want performance and handling but with a supple ride, neither will disappoint. so…. What colour are you going to choose??? Good hunting, and enjoy! cheers, Jon

Rare chance to get a rare car. 1983 was the III series, the last of the Vanden Plas. Only 140 were made and this is thought to be one of only 2 left. Near full service history, last full one in October 2024. Immaculate walnut wood interior with gold banding. Beautiful cream leather with bespoke piping to match claret car colour. Kent alloys plus spare. Working electric windows and sun roof, original tool kit and first aid kit the list goes on. 12 page valuation of £18,000. Number plate valued at £1,000, cars nickname Lucifer. Selling well below value due to diagnosis and getting affairs in order. offers around £9,000. Please

Hi Roy, welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring. Be sure to post a few photos when you can. N6 JMX

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll get on it! I've seen a lot of info about SDD, sounds like i'll be investing. Genuinely though, if it takes getting someone over then I'll do it. The car is too pretty for it to be left not running!

completetly different cars...EV vs diesel - personally would go for xf 3.0d...much more refined than 2.0. depending what year make we talking about in terms of 2.0 ingenium diesel. after 2019 there were design changes to it and they are more reliable than in 2016-2018 models

Hopefully this will help you out; airbag code 16 indicates a passenger seat weight sensor CAN fault. This means there's a communication issue with the sensor that detects if someone is sitting in the passenger seat. The CAN (Controller Area Network) is a communication bus that various modules in the car use to talk to each other, and the fault code suggests a problem with the signal from the passenger seat weight sensor being transmitted over the CAN. Here's a more detailed explanation: Passenger Seat Weight Sensor: This sensor is located under the passenger seat cushion and is designed to detect the weight of a person sitting there. CAN Fault: The CAN bus is a communication network that allows different modules in the car to exchange data. If the passenger seat weight sensor is not communicating properly with the other modules (like the airbag control module) via the CAN, it will trigger code 16. Possible Causes: Faulty weight sensor under the seat. Wiring or connection issues in the passenger seat weight sensor circuit. A problem with the CAN bus itself (less likely). Faulty passenger airbag module.

And that is why the insurance company have said it is a total loss. Remember, the selling price includes the sellers profit, your insurance company will not want to pay anything to the sellers profit margin.

Priceless - I’m in my local and there’s a Landrover owner next to me telling his mate that his car parking aid uses Sattelite to give him the Birds Eye view that you see from the synchronised cameras 😂 He actually thinks a Sattelite camera is following him around. I nearly spat out my Guinness 😂

I've read that people are getting sick of the owners and deserting their forums in droves, which can only be a good thing for independent forums. 👍

Wooeehey

Buahahahaha

What does everyone think? I personally am really hoping that I don`t lose my love for Jaguar, but I do fear this may spark the end of our relationship!! https://www.msn.com/en-gb/cars/news/jaguar-unveils-new-logo-and-look-as-it-prepares-for-an-electric-future/ar-AA1ulqoV?ocid=msedgntp&pc=DCTS&cvid=040710aebc7f47f48508ce7c50aa3f1f&ei=11

Only problem is, if the adjust are original, buy the time it get to you in the post, ods are they will be broke aswell.

Hi If the front end feels floaty, thats usually the shock absorbers, would replace both if it were mine cheers Joe

Got everything sorted thanks to JustBadly pointing me at the plastic bits needed to make the headlights work....thanks to all who joined the thread. Kevin.

Hi If you want to do a Proper job, not a Bodge Job, then you can buy the adjusters off ebay, the normal S-type adjusters will do, as theres only one that breaks in each headlight and that the same in the normal headlights. but you do have to take the headlight off and split them, does not take that long did mine in a few hours. lots of videos on youtube on how to split the lights, but if you put them in the oven for 10 minutes on about 90 Deg C, it softens the black sealant, its like blutac but black, makes it go soft and the lenses come off quite easy done a few of them and its not bad, the only thing you must remember, is to disconnect the battery before unplugging the headlights, or your self leveling lights will stop working and can only be reset with software like jaguar ids/sdd or a tool like icarsoft LR V2 cheers Joe

Hi Tony, do you know the age and history of your battery. The ability of the battery to start the car is no longer the definitive indicator of a good battery as the sensitive electronics of a modern car, especially a Jaguar must have a stable voltage supply at all times. If you don't know the battery history, or if you do know that the battery is more than 5 years old, then the first part of the fault finding MUST be to change the battery. As your car is a 2016 model, it could well still have the original battery installed - probably has a Jaguar sticker on it. Ensure any replacement battery is of the correct rating and dimensions as it must fit into the battery tray and be secured - an MoT failure for an unsecured battery. Go to the Kwik Fit website and locate the "Battery" tab, enter your registration number and post code and then click search. The site does all of the hard work for you and once you have found the correct battery, you can run a separate search to find it at the best price - don't need to purchase it from Kwik Fit of course. A lot of folks suggest the Battery Mega Store as offering good prices, but remember you need to be able to fit it, or pay around £30 for a local garage to install the battery you purchase. Once you have confirmed the battery history and / or change, come back and let us know for further advice. N6 JMX

Have owned two of these X-Types and sort of understand. They were a bit of a compromise but their poor reviews at the time were genuinely unfounded. Yes, it comes from a time when Ford owned Jaguar and were desperately trying to make the company profitable. So does everyone's much hated S-Type where faster or rarer versions are getting some love back Yes, the floopan, engine and switchgear was done by ford but please remember it still used original Jag interiors and trim Am selling or scrapping mine because it's an old, poorly maintained one but does have a a few points going for it. Good, old Frod Dynatic Engine and the CD player works, but only on Tuesdays. PM me fore it has to go to the great Jag Dealer in the Sky I also need the space as my little Daimler 250 might be coming back soon Can honestly say I love them. Not a great idea from Jaguar but served as my intro to the world of. As the competitor to the BMW 3 series it failed, as a cheap old wreck that nobody loves it still makes sense if you can afford the repair bills on an old car

Hi Steven, you could try Studio Cars of Preston, they look after the trim on a number of Classic and Modern Jaguars - as well as sell / repair Jaguars. Follow the link below. Used Cars Weeton, near Preston, Lancashire | Studio Cars Of Preston N6 JMX

Hi Chris, good to know. For the vehicles you are looking out for, you need the more specialist outlets such as Ken Jenkins, trading as UK Jag. Ken has a steady supply of these type of machines and is currently advertising a 1959 XK 150S, 3.8 Roadster (not a DHC). He is advertising a 1954 XK120 DHC 3.4. the website is www.ukjag.co.uk There is an XK150 DHC SE 1959 advertised in the JE magazine - in the Norfolk area. N6 JMX

Hi Graeme, message received and the instructions have been emailed to you. Good luck. N6 JMX

Hi There a lever inside the heandlight that you can flick and its alters the headlight pattern, no need to swap them but this is only possible on the HID headlights if you have halogen ones, then I think you would have to use the stick on bean benders or swap the lights, halogen ones are not interchangeable with HID ones as the wiring is different. Cheers Joe

Hi Paul -- Welcome to the club plenty to see and talk about here ?? - And that XF you have looks really good - Frank

Hi John, a good battery is essential to the electronic well-being of these cars, so a changing of the battery for what may turn out to be spurious indications on the dash is a good first step, especially when you are unsure of the age of the battery. The Yuasa is a great battery, just be sure to get the version that fits and suits your car. By that I mean ensure the dimensions are correct to fit in the battery tray / box, and that the power (Ah) is of the correct rating. Once you have the new battery in place, you may find the fault has cleared, but if not, then reading any stored codes should be the next step. A friendly local workshop with the correct tools should be able to help. This may through light on the follow-up steps, perhaps a faulty ABS sensor, but get any codes before changing other parts. N6 JMX

Hi Ian Can you give a little more detail? Does the engine just stop dead? Any warning lights? Any smoke? Rough running? Noises? Not sure I agree with your mechanic that yours counts as "an older car" in terms of reading the DTC codes. My cheap code reader is more than happy reading any DTCs on my 2.1 petrol from 2003.... Regards John

Hi Stephen, try looking up DCR AutoParts, they are very good on the X-100 models and getting into the X-150 models as well. https://www.dcrautoparts.com/ The owner, Dave Roche, is always good for advice on those hard to find parts. N6 JMX

I would suggest that what you have is a normal XK that has had the XK60 bodykit fitted at a later stage (unless you have owned the car from new) The X150 version of the XK appeared in showrooms in March / April 2006, the press cars were late 2005 as far as I can remember. The bodykit fitted to the 2008 XK60 'special edition' was available to buy as a dealer fit accessory to 'retro fit' onto any 4.2 XK. If you let me have the last 6 digits of your chassis number, I can run the car through our system at work to find out the original build spec and designation ?

Thanks Geoff, That's what I figured also I won't have the hassle of having to book it in to 2 different garages & if the fault returns who do you go to! Rather bizarrely I went out in the car yesterday & the fault message on the dash cleared itself along with the ABS light, when I got home I switched the engine off, left it for a while re started it & the message returned so have still decided to have the work done just to be on the safe side