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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!

Yes it will as it is purely mechanical.🙄

Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.

I don’t think I’ve posted before, so hello. Im Matt owner of a X-Type 2.2 Sovereign estate. Photo credit.. Image taken from Moves like Jaguar You Tube Video JBC @ JLR Classic

Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!

You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.

The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Graham, sounds like an unfortunate experience there, but hopefully you can get it all back and working again. For the roof, you need to test with a multi meter that voltages are getting to the correct place, i.e. the correct fuse - remember that a fuse can "look" fine but only a resistance test would confirm, - the switch in the roof, etc. Can you hear any relay clicks as the roof switch is operated? In normal circumstances, the operation of the roof would not be linked to the replacement engine, but with Jaguar you never can tell. For the fan 1, could it be as simple as a connector loose / not reseated correctly after the engine installation. The fan should generate a fault code (DTC) of some description which can be read with an OBD code reader, which in turn would help point you in the right direction. N6 JMX

Welcome aboard Andy, glad to hear your success story and long may that continue!

Thanks to you both for your opinions, much appreciated. May not have one fitted after all.

Haha I think I lost mine too! I think anything over £20,000 I would be open to discuss

OK thanks will do.

Right there with you scooby, changing is always better

Thanks all!

Little tip with the inertia switch - tap the body of it with the handle of a screwdriver until you hear it deploy with a definite "bah-doy-nnng" then reset it. They have a habit of furring the contacts, especially if sat for a while and this can often cause the fuel pump to not run. Also try the spare key in case the transponder in your main key has died.

If the pump does not run then first check the inertia switch hasn’t tripped inadvertently before you go further.

@Ivan forster do you have pictures of some of these parts? We need to verify you own these parts before allowing you to sell these here.

Well let's see if I can stick a pic on the site

Welcome to the forum, enjoy.😊

Hello Rolland, I don't believe there is any programming. I just swapped them over Graeme

Maintenance purposes and yes all were down

More people chatting would be a bonus though and not just us three musketeers 😂

Fair enough🤣

Hi all I have a 2011 2.2d xf, the car is great when cold accelerates great no issues, on long motorway runs again no issues, but when I drive around town about 7-10 miles stop start I get some series acceleration issues, the car is very unpredictable sometimes it pulls away slowly and picks up gradually, other times it pulls away lime a snail and very slowly picks up, I have no error codes or fault lights, I have changed the MAF sensor, had the EGR valve programmed out of the ECU and changed all filters and can't find the issue, when the problem occurs if I put my foot to the floor it revs to about 3000 rpm but doesn't pick up and the gears are snatchy, I have had the transmission serviced and checked and that if fine any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just joined after buying myself a Jaguar XF...just need the alloys refurbished now. Cheers Scott.

Never!!!!..LOL

Hi all, a long overdue update on my rust problems. I have finally gotten around to having the work done almost 2 years later, the main driving force behind it has been moving house and loosing the luxury of storage. It’s ended up being £3000 worth of welding but ultimately worth it to preserve another S Type for a few more years. My decision to save the car has actually proven to be quite a blessing because in between my Jag going for welding I was unfortunate enough to have quite a nasty smash in my main car on a rural road that resulted in it being written off, My S Type was my first car so I have ended up being back exactly where I started which makes me question if I should’ve stuck with an S Type all along. I’ll post some more photos once it’s all completed. Cameron.

Hi Carl, 50 miles at over 50 MPH and it should clean up - all else being equal. Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring. Great folks on here to assist when things are not quite right! N6 JMX

Go to the Kwik Fit website and locate the "Batteries" tab, enter your registration number and post code, then press search. The website does all the work for you and then you can do a search for the best price for the battery you select - do not have to purchase from Kwik Fit. Note that the most important attribute to your selected replacement should be dimensions. It MUST fit into the battery tray and be held securely in place, it would be an MoT failure if not secured. N6 JMX

HI Alan, Welcome to Jaguar Owners.

The same to you Trevor --Have a good one ------ Frank

Struggling to find part numbers MJB1341AC and MJF1346AA ... my usual go to Barretts are not coming back with any information. Nearside front suspension arm and bush. Any help out there in XK8 land?

Excellent, thorough job 👍