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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX

I have great news S type jaguar 3.0 2001 Y554BPA coolant tank, fitted today no longer waiting for part jaguar has got this coolant tank in stock.

Hi Sheela, With an 8 year old battery it is simply waiting to fail. These modern cars have so many electronics going on in the background that the quiescent battery drain can be quite high and a car like yours left to sit around for a week or so will have a low battery - even when the battery is relatively new. The recommendation is typically to replace the battery in a Modern Jaguar at 5 years. If I were in your position, I would be looking for a new battery replacement and ensure you get a premium battery for a premium car, AND from a reliable supplier. There have been a number of reports of batteries failing after only a few months, so you want the back-up of a premium supplier for a no quibble exchange. Note that if you plan to change the battery yourself, then the car's ECU needs to be "informed" via a Jaguar diagnostics system that a new battery is in place in order that it can reset the charging rates, N6 JMX

Thanks for the link. Unfortunately, it does not confirm these fit my DD6 as the compatible Daimler list does not go back before 1989 and if I select a 1986 Jaguar Sovereign V12 it says it does not fit. I see struts listed for XJ40s and XJSs but didn't know if they take the same length as those on the DD6 which are about 14 inches long extended.

Here is the electrical manual for your car, figure 05.1 refers. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/JaguarXType/2007XTypeElectrical.pdf

Good call, check the simple and easy fix stuff first. The breather would be an obvious thought. N6 JMX

Think you'll find it's Bik3rZ 😏 And thanks👍

look on ebay for maps updating services, plenty out there.

Thanks for the information it's appreciated. On to the next step, thanks again

I've already got a slush fund set up from the sale of a lung and a kidney!!! 🤣🤣🤣

Slaughterhouse (Shambles is an old word for it)

More people chatting would be a bonus though and not just us three musketeers 😂

Now then, now then, jingle jangle chrome. 😁

Let's take over 😂

I'd still buy from Tayna, still the best supplier. Im not surprised though, because you quoted someone called 'Tanya', whoever she is 😉 😂

Hi all! I've been a long-time Alfa Romeo owner (for close to 20 years...!) and I'm now looking to switch to Jaguars. More specifically, I'd love to find an F-Pace SVR. Can you guys suggest any Jag-specific selling sites other than the usual generic sites such as Autotrader / Gumtree, Facebook, etc.? Once I find the right car, I'm sure I'll be a very active member here! Thanks all.

I have to admit, it was quite far gone I think most sane people would’ve called it a day but sometimes a car is valued more sentimentally than financially. Mechanically the S Types seem quite robust so I think providing I can keep up with the rust it will live on for a few more years. I’m currently torn between getting an X Type or another S Type to replace my main car with, perhaps a later model than the one I have with a few more toys.

Never!!!!..LOL

Glad to hear you finally got it done Cameron, yours was much more frilly than mine though! 😮 Hopefully it should stay solid for several (or more) years to come now!

Hi Michael https://www.ashwoodjagparts.co.uk/product-page/fuel-pump-jaguar-s-type-3-0-4-0-xr822164p https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.com/products/s-type-fuel-pump-xr822164 https://advancedautomotives.com/sytec-hi-replacement-fuel-pump-kit-jaguar-s-type-30-v6-40-v8-aston-itp316-12125-p.asp Hope that helps. John

I have a 2L diesel (grey) x type saloon for sale in nice condition throughout, high miles, half leather interior still like new. It has just had a replacement turbo fitted but I'm told it also needs a high pressure fuel pump as these sometimes suffer when the turbo blows. In the middle of a house move and have nowhere to keep a second car while being repaired, good tyres, recent service, lots of bills, owned for 10 years, f/s/h, prefer to sell cheaply to someone for repair than broken for parts, no reasonable offer refused. Ask me for details, I'm based in Aylesbury, UK.

Hi I'm new to the club and the xf is the first jaguar I've owned I'm open to any help and advice thanks

Hi, I’ve had my first Jag an XF for 16 months now and it’s been great. You can see some of my photos in the gallery. Enjoy your Jag. All the best Ian

Hello. I just purchased a 2013 Jaguar CK coupe. Looking forward to enjoying the ride

This could still be a poor battery and / or a bad set of earth connections. The ability to start the car is no longer the best test that your battery is fine. The electronics on your car are extremely sensitive to low voltage, which generally will not bother the starter motor until much later. Low voltage causes the electronic control modules to become unable to be seen by the CANBUS. N6 JMX

If it were the pads freeing from the disc after being parked to go cold, there would only be one "clunk", or at least one "clunk" per side. Can you confirm how many "clunks" are being heard and also clarify: 1. Is the clunk heard only when the front wheels are turned to full lock? 2. When you first engage reverse, do you travel any backward distance with the wheels pointing straight, i.e. no lock applied? 3. And if so, is there no clunk whilst travelling straight? 4. Is the clunk apparent whether you are reversing out of the driveway to turn right, or left or both? 5. If only with the wheel rotated to turn left, or right, which lock is being applied when the clunk appears, i.e. left hand down or right hand down? 6. If you look into the wheel arch of the nearside front wheel, use a torch, can you see any indications where the leading edge of the turned wheel may have contacted the wheel arch? N6 JMX

Hi Dr Daryl, I presume you mean a 2013 XK - keyboard finger trouble! Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring - hope you have many happy journeys. N6 JMX

Myton Jaguar Parts https://www.myton.parts/jaguar-parts Mention 'Jaguar Owners Club' for a discount

Hi Paul, welcome to the forum and thanks for posting a few pictures of your very presentable XF. Hope you have may enjoyable motoring miles with it. Believe it or not, Jaguar actually allows folks to download and keep the Quick Start Guide and the Owners Handbook for free, check out via the link below. If you want a physical handbook for the glovebox, there are usually some to be found on eBay, or from the Breakers like Auto Reserve. Jaguar XF Library & Owner Manual | Jaguar Owners N6 JMX

Hi I'm new too I was very tempted with the x351 but I do not do enough miles for a diesel so I jumped in with v8 supercharged 😬🚗💨

Don’t know the part number however, you should be looking for the 19 inch space saver. Google may be your friend here.😎