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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever ๐ . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .3 points
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Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the โsecretโ keyhole!2 points
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Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. Iโm Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and itโs been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I โpersuadedโ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. Youโd think the story would brighten up from there butโฆ.. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didnโt have my OBD with me I wasnโt able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasnโt prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.2 points
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Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! Itโs a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!2 points
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You donโt see many 3.0โs , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.2 points
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The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.2 points
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I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG2 points
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If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.2 points
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did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly2 points
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Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX2 points
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Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar2 points
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Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. ๐2 points
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Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.2 points
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For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX2 points
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Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners๐ Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.2 points
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There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is ยฃ16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX2 points
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Quick update: Cleaning the plug and socket didn't work, it looks like there is damage on the BCM board. Thankfully there is a Jag specialist with an electronics Wizz nearby so I'm going to whip the bcm out over the weekend and take it down there. They said it should be plug and play once they've re-pinned it but they want me to bring the car down after so they can re-pin the plug as well. I should know in about a week if it's worked or not. If not I'm guessing I'll have to fork out for a new bcm and programming from JLR main dealer. Alex1 point
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Hello folks I'm in a similar dillema moving from a convertible Volvo C 70 with its folding metal roof and great capacity to an F type fixed head coupe which does at least allow golf club storage. I would have loved the convertible version but with no storage on board, maybe i should keep the Volvo for summer holidays. By the way do our F type owners think that the glass sun roof is an asset. (No wonder Im calling myself Frazzle) ,1 point
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Very nice! Now where did i put that winning lottery ticket? ๐ Joking aside, what is your idea of a "reasonable offer" as that is very much open ton interpretation?1 point
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Thanks Dave - you're a star! JLR (Barrets Ashford) wanted ยฃ192 to supply a key. I then drove to Timpsons and they did the whole thing, in Tesco's car park, in 20 minutes, for ยฃ89. Job done. Thanks again. Martin1 point
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Some forecourts are now restricting the use E5 so E10 is only available when filling up. I have had a number of Classic cars over the years and whenever I put E10 in I always dossed the tank with REDEX Petrol System Cleaner which protects against corrosion from E10 fuel and never had a problem. Not used E10 in the XKR yet but if I do I will put in some REDEX.1 point
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Hello all, 1st time jag owner here. I collected my 2014 xfs 3.0 sportbrake portfolio just a few weeks ago, it has been back to the garage already as it turns out the bcm was corrupt and it has the dreaded failed door lock actuator too ๐คฃ all covered on warranty thankfully! Apart from that i am absolutely loving the car! Anyway thought i would introduce myself, im Tommy, also known as the ADHD Fishkeeper (yes diagnosed and not one of them that claims they are but never seen a professional) on tiktok. Im 33 and from the yorkshire area, im looking forward to learning as much as possible from the forums and even meeting some of you at any of the jaguar events.1 point
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You could also look at SNG Barrett's website as they hold large stocks of parts for these cars. SNG Barratt UK | Keeping your Jaguar on the road N6 JMX1 point
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That's an idea. If the Key Fob doesn't like it I reckon that I would so it seems like a win win to me, at least something to drown the sorrows with !1 point
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I'd still buy from Tayna, still the best supplier. Im not surprised though, because you quoted someone called 'Tanya', whoever she is ๐ ๐1 point
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Hi all I have a 2011 2.2d xf, the car is great when cold accelerates great no issues, on long motorway runs again no issues, but when I drive around town about 7-10 miles stop start I get some series acceleration issues, the car is very unpredictable sometimes it pulls away slowly and picks up gradually, other times it pulls away lime a snail and very slowly picks up, I have no error codes or fault lights, I have changed the MAF sensor, had the EGR valve programmed out of the ECU and changed all filters and can't find the issue, when the problem occurs if I put my foot to the floor it revs to about 3000 rpm but doesn't pick up and the gears are snatchy, I have had the transmission serviced and checked and that if fine any help would be greatly appreciated.1 point
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Hi Lennart, have you confirmed that the water pump is working correctly? A dry / empty hose would suggest that no circulation is taking place. Additionally, with an unknown history, you may wish to consider emptying the entire coolant system, flushing the waterways fully and then refilling with the correct strength and formulation of antifreeze. Mixing antifreeze types can create gelling and therefore blockage of the waterways. N6 JMX1 point
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Glad to hear you finally got it done Cameron, yours was much more frilly than mine though! ๐ฎ Hopefully it should stay solid for several (or more) years to come now!1 point
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Only problem is, if the adjust are original, buy the time it get to you in the post, ods are they will be broke aswell.1 point
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Got everything sorted thanks to JustBadly pointing me at the plastic bits needed to make the headlights work....thanks to all who joined the thread. Kevin.1 point
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I have a 2L diesel (grey) x type saloon for sale in nice condition throughout, high miles, half leather interior still like new. It has just had a replacement turbo fitted but I'm told it also needs a high pressure fuel pump as these sometimes suffer when the turbo blows. In the middle of a house move and have nowhere to keep a second car while being repaired, good tyres, recent service, lots of bills, owned for 10 years, f/s/h, prefer to sell cheaply to someone for repair than broken for parts, no reasonable offer refused. Ask me for details, I'm based in Aylesbury, UK.1 point
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Hi Matt and welcome. First port of call is the battery. If the battery is more than 5 years old I would change it. These cars, like all modern premium cars, eat up the amps at an alarming rate so unless your battery is recharged often by a long run it will suffer a drop in voltage sufficent to upset at least one of the many computer modules. If possible put it on charge and see if that solves the problem. Personally I would use a Ctek charger at least weekly. Make sure you use a charger capable of handling the AGM battery. Also if the battery is low the S/S will not be working. Also worth checking for water in drivers footwell as the washer bottles can leak and flood the electrics causing all sorts of wierd problems so fingers crossed yours is nice and dry... Good luck, John1 point
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Hi Graeme, message received and the instructions have been emailed to you. Good luck. N6 JMX1 point

