Bigvic

You say delete and mapped out

Does that mean you had it removed, gutted and put back on?

Cos if it doesn’t, you have to get this done

You could also have a parasitic draw when everything is off which would eat battery

After a thought, I’m starting to lean towards the battery for some of your problems too, the same as the others above. I’ve had a battery before that’s failed after a few months.

The rp maybe different and I’m surprised it’s giving no codes - as I say, a warm favourite is a vacuum leak

The keyfob? I would be trying a new battery in it first if none of the buttons are working - starting the car has nothing to do with the battery in the fob

Rfa is remote fob somethingorother…It’ll be the module

You don’t tell us what your car and year is. If you disconnected the battery, it may have messed up its security settings, these will have to be reprogrammed via sdd. This happens between the years approx 2012 till 2015

You don’t tell us the codes that are still showing

I would extremely doubt if the abs code is causing the rp - your brakes will still work and I think it would show a light on the dash

Check very carefully the control boxes in the boot and the drivers footwell for any signs of water ingress, plugs too

A usual suspect for rp at your revs is unmetered air getting drawn into the air intake, but that would throw a fault code

Anybody tried swapping the front wheels to the back?

maybe (😃), you’ve got an alloy out of round

Sounds like you’re going to have to overhaul the brake calipers

On the other hand…

It’s a known thing that pad deposits can build up on the discs and cause this juddering

A good few heavy braking sessions from speed can remove these deposits and cure the problem till it comes back

I tend to agree with you

It’s your car - you can do what you like with it!

16 hours ago, Robboxf said:

I thought it would end up being the more expensive option.

The garage is about 11 miles away, do you think it would make it there before the battery dies?

Charge up the battery and it will do 11 miles no problem

I had the exact same problem about 2 weeks ago leaving my work car park and it managed 30 miles

I had everything electrical off that I didn’t need, but the windows misted bad and I was freezing by the time I got home!

Second hand alternator cured it

Differential?

If the boot was full of water the it’s more than likely that your junction box is slowly dying

It’s a box in your boot that holds relays, fuses and computery things

If it does turn out to be that, then it’s an expensive fix. Although I’ve read that some people claim to have fixed them by removing and drying them out. There are also people on the internet who say they can fix them

All I can say is good luck with this one

I imagine the only way to switch it off is by using jag specific sdd computery stuff

Don’t ask me how though, I’m a dinosaur nowadays

What’s wrong with the stuff specified in the handbook?

Ah…

I think the explanation is that yours is a 17 plate and mine is a 14 plate

Sorry…

There’s a tiny, almost invisible, clear dot on the black border of the windscreen glass that the wiper tip is meant to park at

You can change said valve for a new one

There’s a valve in the compressor that can go bad

Isn’t there a bit in the touchscreen where you can mess about with how it locks or unlocks?

Do all the doors stay locked?

You’ve got to tell the car it’s got a new battery via sdd or autel

a dealer or indy will do it for you

Have you tried a car breaker?

Oh, and gearbox Oil changed a couple of years ago for about the same price

I got my belt and pump done for £450 at a jag indy

That’s ridiculously high

You need to get the error codes read

Take it off, clean it out, put it back on, top up to the cold level with coolant

tie the hose up, out of the way, but higher than the tank - just to try and stop air getting into the system