mrmike

I did not use H3 bulbs! They are 50W jobbies, what would I do with 50W side lights if they were mountable? What I used were T10 5W replacements at 5 Euros a piece, I will measure the R tomorrow. As I said before they are very similar to yours but gold coloured with side moounted leds and front mounted leds with a lens. they were very bright and looked good. The OEM bulbs look awful. Btw I have the HID setup.

The ones I fitted were canbus compatible! In fact they look like yours but are gold coloured. They worked fine until a month or so ago. In fact I still have one as a spare now. Canbus compatible means that the system sees a certain load on the circuit, when a normal bulb burns out etc the load is no longer there and a lamp failure is registered or shown. With Leds the current taken by the leds themselves is much lower than the incandecent bulbs. In order to trick the canbus system there are resistors in parallel with the Leds so that it appears like a normal incandescent bulb. When one of the leds burns out, then the canbus system still sees the current being drawn by the parallel resistors and thinks that the bulb is still OK but in reality there is no light only heat being dissipated by the resistors.

I also did this but I did have a couple of problems, 1. The Led lamp fell into the reflector assy while I was messing about with it. Given the extra length, thinner contacts etc it comes out of the holder more easily. I retrieved mine with a small neodym magnet on a bit of cord. I was lucky because the LED lamp was magnetic. 2. When I went for the yearly test, They found one of the Leds had failed, I had to refit the normal bulb. This did not show up as a lamp failure over the Canbus because of the internal resistor in the Led lamp! I have gone back to the original bulbs looks yukky but I will sell the car shortly anyway. M

Over the last 3 years that I have had the car I have changed about 2 litres of transmission fluid about every 6 months and gotten over the jerky acceleration going uphill etc. I now have another problem. I had driven about 200kms and I accelerated to pull out and overtake, the box changed down quite hard. I continued and some kms later did the same again this time there was the hard change and a message "Gearbox Fault" I stopped when the next rest area came up. Switched off and back on, no message! Took it easy for the next 600K, downchanges were not very smooth however. Got the Icsoft on it and got the following DTCs on the transmissinn 5th gear malfunction and PO830 and PO835. Gear changing is not very smooth and there is a tendency to stay in 5th and not change up to 6th unless I lift off the accelerator a bit. Anyone else had these probs? M

A couple of years ago I changed my front side lights to LEDs, looked much better than the yellow filament bulbs. I have a yearly MOT Eq Test and this last time I was told that one of the front sidelights had failed. I quickly changed it to the old filament bulb. This wasn't flagged up by the CPU, I guess because of the resistors maintaining a load for the Canbus. A couple of months ago I did get a bulb failure indication for a few seconds which I Ignored. I suppose this was when the Leds went US. So watch out for a lamp failure indication if it lasts only a few seconds and have a walk around the car to check. M

I have been looking for some spray paint to do a small repair on my Car. The Colour is CHB Radiant Red. I have found some kits on Amazon and elsewhere but there is a problem in the descriptions. I have been presented with CHB Radiant Red Perl (Amazon) and CHB Radiant Red Met (Metallic?) else where. The paintwork apears to be metallic, but German sites appear to have only Perl, Does anyone know what the difference is and or what is Perl? Thanks in anticipation. Mike

Clean all the battery connectors and contacts, and the cable and its connection to the bodywork.

On the wiperblades, Tank is front left under bonnet.

Check your battery AND the connectors AND connection to the body. I think most us have gone through this! Check out Battery Woes in the Forum. Get Purrrring M

Thanks Joe, I'll have a look on ebay. It was the sizes that got me last time I looked. My budget is very limited so wiping away the grease with dust and recoating has been good for a few years here in E. No Play is the name of the game!! Any size recomendations more than welcome? Mike

SNG Barratt have them in their catalogue. Get it for free, the catalogue that is! M sales.uk@sngbarratt.com

Here They don't fail you, only if there is play. There Is a company in Bulgaria That sells gaiters/grease covers etc. Pls let me know if you find them.

I went through all this 3 years ago, Actually I never thought about adding or paralleling resistance to the NTCs, I was just happy to have the A/C back. Anyways, I am not going to do anything now as I will sell the car in the next couple of months, It is too big for parking here in view of local changes that have been made. Thanks for the suggestions which I would have tried when I had the A/C problem. M

That sounds really useful! I haven't had this problem though since I changed the battery. M

Not True! It was still 3 degs higher on the passenger side. I took no notice of the reading on the screen, I measured the temperature at the vents. On the screen they were both 17C. At the Connector on the drivers side the short pulses could be seen on an analogue meter that were controlling the passenger side of the DCCV. They were were not present on the drivers side connectors. The problem was down to the CCU. Anyway it works keeping us cool even when it is nearly 40C outside and it gets cool within a couple of minutes on Low even at 50km. (thanks to the Compressor mod)

I still have a very slight problem which came to light when I was going through the fault finding, the passenger side is always 3deg C higher than the setting. At Max cooling the CCU is sending a short pulse, An analogue meter shows a short kick at regular intervals and I guess that at whatever Temperature is set the passenger side valve gets a slightly wider pulse. My wife doesn't notice and as far as she is concerned it goes up and down as requested. So no need to change anything. BTW the sensors were all Ok. If I had had a circuit diagram for it I would have investigated, I did think of connecting the gate of the passenger side Fet to the driver side Fet so the control would have been from the driver side.

Here tis- Karl...... https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/epic-troubleshooting-guide-climate-control-how-185002/ Title An Epic Troubleshooting Guide for Climate Control HOW TO

Check the votages going to the DCCV, I can't remember whether they go high or low to stop the hot coolant. Obviously on cool there must be no hot coolant. I changed the DCCV first for a cheap one, but it wasn't the problem. It is still going fine after 3 years. There is an excellent guide which I posted the URL to on here 3 years ago. Unfortunately my problem was the A/C compressor, Still it could have been worse! The system is quite complicated, With the help of the guy who wrote the guide (Carl, I think, from the US), and a couple of weeks of comms between us to eliminate all possible faults I had a Compressor test done by a Specialist A/C company here in Spain and they confirmed a tired compressor. A real !Removed! of a job to change on the diesel, it comes out from the top unlike all the other models and the manual is also wrong on various steps.

I'm beginning to wonder what you have there. Is your filter in the V of the engine and you need a 32mm socket to undo it. I was under the impression that the filter cover was one piece of plastic. Maybe it is not the same as mine. The only reason Oil could come out the top of mine is if it had been overtightened before, or a simple spanner had been used on it and the "Nut" part had cracked allowing oil to leak out. M

Obviously you changed the filter and seal? I have done it 4 times without any problem. When taking it off I think it mentions unscrewing it 5 turns and then waiting 5 minutes or so. It is in the manual, have read. Mine is a diesel but I think it is the same. M

I thought I had a prob with the remote a few months ago, pulled it apart but could see no battery. put it back together it was fine, put it down to contacts. In 3 yrs we have done nothing with ours all OK. I read somewher that both remotes (keys) should be used regularly to keep them charged. How that works I have no Idea???? Mike

Does the A/C work? There are some codes that come up on mine but they are irrelevant, Maybe they were for earlier models etc. Cheers M

Thanks Joe, I think that on mine too the bumper has to come off, Mine are just dim and the lens appears dark. I'll wait untill it gets a tad warmer at the end of next month. Thanks again. Mike

Does anyone happen to have the OEM numbers for the HID bulbs (2005 2.7D) , As a matter of interest, what voltage do they require? Cheers Mike

Still Perfect, My car sometimes is not used for a week or slightly more like now, Just got over Covid! The car is outside and I do not have a charger etc, true it is rare that the temperature goes below 0C but it regularly goes over 37C in the summer. I cannot stress enough the importance of very good battery connections for reliable starting and lack of ominous messages.