LairdScooby

You shouldn't have any problem using it, after all it's higher octane than E10 which has been forced on us by environmentalists and your fuel consumption should drop (and economy increase) due to the higher octane number.

It would be a nice touch though! Sort of surprised it's not present considering the rest of the interior lighting.

I would remove your existing headlights, buy the adjuster kit on ebay (make sure you get the one that contains 4 gear wheels per side, you'll need them!) and use a hairdryer to play on the edge of the plastic lens all round the light unit to soften the sealant, gently prying the lens away from the housing. Once you can remove the lens, do so and then you can strip the old adjusters (or the remains of) out and fitr the new ones. To fit the adjuster drive gears, i used a 10mm socket to support the new gear and a deep 5.5mm 1/4" drive socket to push on the threaded part with a little silicone grease on the end of the threaded shaft to ease it into the new gear. Once done, refit the reflector on the new adjusters, wipe any pawprints off the reflector with a microfibre cloth and put the lens in position ready to refit. Again heat up the sealant and work your way round heating, squeezing etc until the lens is completely refitted. After that i did a few "circuits" of the lamp unit with the hairdryer to make sure the sealant was even pressure on the lens and helped to spread it out/reseal. Unless you do this outside in the pouring rain or inside a sauna, there's very little chance of introducing moisture and is ~£500 cheaper than new lights. Don't forget the adjusters are a common problem on these so even if you buy some secondhand ones with apparently good adjusters, chances are they will go again. Much better to revive your existing lights with the adjuster kit which is made from glass-flled nylon or similar (don't remember the exact plastic but it's one of the engineering plastics) so will likely outlast the car! A timely squirt of silicone lube spray will help prevent the adjuster threads corroding and ease any adjustment necessary at MoT time. PS - while my lenses were off, i gave them several good rubs with T-Cut to remove the small amount of oxidisation on them then a few coats of Turtle Wax polish to help potect them. Next year i will revisit this task and once happy they are completely clear, will use this instead of clear-coat lacquer/varnish to protect the lenses from going opaque agin : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151172691767 If it does go opaque (doubtful as it rejects 99% of UV) the film can simply be peeled off, the lenses rebuffed with T-Cut or similar and a new piece of film fitted.

Very good point, also worth removing the trim panels for access to the whole switch and tapping the body of it with the handle of a large screwdriver until it operates (usually makes a "bah-doy-nng!" noise) and then resetting it by pressing the button on the top until it clicks. Had many cars where although the inertia switch hasn't physicaly tripped, the contacts have become dirty due to never moving and by triggering them 2-3 times and restting each time, this has cleaned them and normal service is resumed. On some cars, the inertia switch also unlocks the car so may prevent normal operation of the central locking. Could be worth checking for a +12V feed on the coil packs and injectors, a lost feed there will also prevent starting among other things. Lastly check you're getting a pulse from the Crank Poistion Sensor, without this the engine management will think the engine isn't turning and inhibit the fuel pump. You could also prove it's fuel related by using EasyStart on the air intake while cranking - if it fires with Easy Start then it's definitely a fuel problem.

Is that the one where you have to cycle the temperature from cold to hot and back again several times Peter to enable the HVAC controls to "learn" the temperatures again? Fairly sure mine is too early for that system and wasn't sure when it came in.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151172691767 This is the stuff i was thinking of John, a bit of a play with a heat-gun/hairdryer before fitting to help mould it to thecompound curves of the headlamp lenses wwould help fitting, also makes life much easier than spraying lacquer as many things can alter the thickness of the lacquer potentially resulting in light refraction the wrong way. The film option avoids this.

Any bulb that gives out heat will eventually blacken, particularly filament bulbs as minute particle of the filament burn off and coat the inside of the glass envelope. Similar things happen with the HID bulbs in much the same way as neon bulbs used to blacken with age - its a similar principle, high voltage exciting the gas and causing it to glow brightly (HID) or not quite so brightly in the case of neon. The electrodes that create the high voltage discharge within the bulb lose their surface very gradually, this is in the form of minute blackened particles - you can see where this is going! As for the US theory, the lamp units are sealed so can't draw moisture in and moisture won't blacken things. Most likely they have been too lazy to refit the dust cover on the outer bulb allowing dirt and dust to enter. When i stripped mine down (1999 car) the insides were as clean as when they left the factory, probably because they still had the original bulbs in that were nearly black! Between that and the broken adjusters, it's no wonder i couldn't see where i was going at night!

Sounds like you need new bulbs! They go black with age and with the reflections from the reflector will make the lenses appear black inside. They should not get dirty inside, there is a mastic seal between lens and body of the light units, a cover over the outer/dipped beam bulb and the main beam/inner has an "O" ring seal built into the combined holder/bulb. Removing the front bumper cover isn't too bad if you work methodically and nobody has added extra self tappers (like they had on mine) to keep the bumper in line with the front wing. As for the screw bodge, it might work ok now but it won't forever and will probably need new lights to be fitted when it fails. The remanufactured adjuster kits are available on ebay cheaply and are made from better plastics than the originals so are likely to outlast anything else.

Have a look at this, it might sort you out : Good luck!

A bit of a calculated risk John, the primary function of my work on the headlamps was to replace the shattered adjuster parts. The lenses weren't actually that bad, jus the beginnings of discolouration. As stated in my post, i plan on revisiting the job in spring : As you can see ^^^^^ Over winter the UV levels are much lower and i normally park facing away frm the sun anyway. I may look for some clear window tint film with a high UV rejection factor, shame in a way they don't make colour-specific film that turns clear when lit from behind. I'd probably fall foul of the MoT tester and also the C&U regs if i tried in any case although some very interesting decrative effects can be created with things like chrome-effect window tint film. But i digress! Clear window film with UV filters would do the job well and could eaily be replaced if it clouded over rather thn having to sand it off and then relacquer later. 😉 😄

Quite possibly, i haven't delved into that area of mine yet but on many cars out there in the wild, this can certainly happen! What model/year is yours?

Check (or simply replace "on spec") the Crank Position Sensor. These can fail suddenly resulting in a sudden FTP with no fault codes shown. About £15-25 on ebay for a pattern one, around £100 from Jaguar but as Fords use the same sensor, shopping around can find you a bargain!

A little bit of information that may or may not be helpful, without any power on the DCCV, they will both be open. If the heater controls have been set to cold all over the summer then it might simply be that the valves have stuck in the closed position so setting temperature to hot and getting the engine hot then finding the valves (being careful not to hit anything else) give them a gentle tap with a hammer may shock them free. If that works, cycling them hot/cold a few times during normal driving will help them remain free to move as they should.

I did mine recently while i had the headlamps apart to renew the adjusters which had disintegrated. I just used T-Cut on the lenses to remove the discolouration (it wasn't actually that bad on mine) then finished off with 3 coats of Simoniz liquid wax to protect them. The kits you buy with various abrasives etc in are nothing more than a convenenitly packed set of abrasives, maybe a cloth and/or applicator pad so if you choose your weapons carefully, you can buy those things (or like i did, have them already) and get the same results. The only bit missing from mine was the UV resistant lacquer which i plan on doing in the spring.

Thanks, that was one of the options i preferred during my initial searching, seems they only do the back boxes though? https://www.adamesh.co.uk/s-type-performance-exhaust---25l-30l-1138-p.asp Really looking to get a complete cat-back system (although as it's converted to LPG i'm tempted to get a decat system) for longevity although the back boxes would be a good start. 😉 😄

Hi All, as per the title, i'm looking at getting a stainless exhaust for my 3.0 S-Type but as you can imagine, internet searches return a maze of possible solutions from all-out race exhausts to those that are standard replacements but seem too cheap. Has anyone had a stainless exhaust built/fitted, found one "off the shelf" or similar and can give some recommendations/experiences so i have a few starting points for further investigation please? Looking to retain the quietness but with a slightly sporty, deeper note - nothing wild or "boy racer". I did find one on YouTube that seemed to meet what i was looking for but the maker of the system and/or the builder/fitter seems nowhere to be found. I'm not in a hurry to do this, probably about 6-9 months time (when spring/summer is here again) as the more time i have to investigate, the more chance i have of getting what i want at the price that i want to pay. Thanks in advance!

Sorry to hear you're selling John, hope you get a good price for it!

As someone who has had autos for many years (decades in fact) i can assure you the method you used isn't crap, unless your car is near new with very low mileage and has previously had the ATF changed regularly, the method you used is in fact the best method. Using the flushing method you describe and cite as "the best way" introduces all new fluid in one hit. That new fluid will be much thicker than the older, worn, thin stuff currently residing in your box. The additive in ATF commonly called "seal-swell" will also have worn out, allowing the rubber seals, "O" rings etc to dry out and become brittle. When you dump a full load of new, thick fluid in, this can cause pressures to rise considerably and those brittle seals etc don't always cope. Introducing it in a series of "part-changes" as you've done means the new fluid comes in gently, allowing the seal-swell to work on the seals and revive them before the next lot of new fluid comes in. This is a much gentler method on the gearbox and less likely to pop any seals as you drive. Normally 3-400 miles between each part-change is ideal, depending on the state of the fluid when you started your series of part-changes, you'll need to do 3-4 part-changes and then do one a year to maintain the fluid in a good, clean condition. I did once (about 18 years ago!) try the flushing method on an old Volvo 740GLE, seemed fine until i gave it the beans one day about 3 weeks after (bearing in mind i'd been doing about 250 miles a week in between so the seal-swell should have done its bit of reviving) and caused a harsh change between 2nd-3rd which even happened on a gentle throttle after that. Needless to say i p/x'd the car soon after and never again tried using the flushing method!

Bit of an update, when i tried to get access to the CKP i doscovered it was trickier than i first imagined so decided to go with the idea that as i only wanted to get my hands in that position once to remove/fit new (or test) i'd buy a new CKP and fit it. Found this one on fleabay : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234276747755 I used the part number LRA1640CA to search for it so although not listed for the S Type, it's the correct part. Ordered it 5/9/2022 on RM 24Hr which turned into 192hr as it finally arrived last night at 855pm! 😮 Fitted it today after an hour of "working by Braille" and turned the key for the moment of truth - the V6 growled into life as it should! 😉 😄 Thanks to those who contributed!

Oh. Oh dear. Oh dear, oh dear. Oh dear, oh dear, oh dear. Nurses and warty curds! (Curses and naughty words) Thanks for that though, i purposely didn't mention (nor have i tested it yet) that as a possibility as i was firstly hoping there might be another more likely cause and secondly playing that game with myself where if i don't think about that possibility then it can't possibly be that causing the problem. 😛 Minor update on what i put in my first post above, fuses #5 & #6 checked out ok, both gave a tiny splash of current as i pulled them with the ignition on thereby proving the circuits they feed as well. That led me to believe it therefore had to be something not firing the coil packs or something not telling the PCM to fire the coil packs - i.e. the CKP (Crank Position Sensor) so (weather permitting, it looks like i'll be getting my hand-held scope out and testing it. I think i know the rsult already though. 😞 At least it's relatively easy to access on the S Type, unlike my other two beasties. One is on top of the bellhousing so it's easy to drop the bolt into the bellhousing and difficult to reach the sensor in the first place, the other one lives behind the front bank cam pulley 🥴 so definitely isn't a quick job. Will update with the rsults of my tsting as and when the monsoons allow, thanks again! 😉 😄

Hi All, hoping for a bit of inspiration as so far i've wasted too much perspiration on this! 😮 Last time i used my Jag was monday and it was going fine, although when i tried restarting where i'd been, it was a bit reluctant - i put it down to a bit of fuel vapouristaion after a hot run getting there. However, in between i gave it a good wash and polish so it was looking all nice, bright and shiny. Went to use it yesterday and while it turned over rapidly, it just wouldn't fire or even attempt to fire. A few clues - no tachometer action - usually this flicks slightly while cranking before firing. I can hear the fuel pump priming and the throttle body whirring slightly (at least i think it's the throttle body, that general area) with ignition on. I've tried both keys (known many Fords and Volvos with the same sort of key happily crank but not fire because the RFID chip has failed) and checked fuses #1, #11, #12 in the underbonnet fusebox and all have a feed in and out which also proves fuse #17 in the rear fusebox. Tried connecting my OBD-II scanner, wouldn't link correctly for some odd reason. The PATS LED lights with ignition and goes out suggesting it's not a security fault (ruling the immobiliser out hopefully) and lastly, i found the inertia switch, deployed it by whacking it and reset it, just in case it had gone into its third state - in the on position but not passing current, had this many times on other cars with inertia switches. Does anybody have any clues, ideas, suggestions please? Just about to go and test fuses #5 & #6 in the underbonnet fusebox and then i'm completely out of ideas!

Welcome aboard Mark! I too recently became the owner of a 3.0 V6 SE S Type and so far (until yesterday) was enjoying it. As John has said, there isn't really a specific recommissioning guide for the S Type, just general common sense. All fluids and filters, tyres (they could well have flat-spotted and/or perished/cracked up), check the serpentine drive belt in the engine bay, all rubber bushes etc that mount the suspension and like John advised, check for the dreaded tinworm. They're a great car, i'm sure you will enjoy yours as much as i normally and i expect others do too! 😉 😄

Good luck with hunting John, i've resigned myself to having to make a fascia for mine (1999.25 model) as nothing exists in the aftermarket to replace the original cubby hole, double-DIN factory head unit etc as one panel to fit a single DIN (or double for that matter) for mine. To give you an idea, this is an entry-level double DIN android head unit which has sat-nav built in and a facility for a reversing camera (not supplied), you'll need adaptor leads from someone like Autoleads to plug the DIN connectors into the Jag loom but gives you an idea : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/195258199419 It's all down to what you want, budget and how much you're willing to change trim etc in the car. A new head unit (even a budget one) will likely sound better than the 15-20 year old OE unit as the components will be new and won't have degraded over time. I was surprised when i fitted the (recently new) head unit from my Rover into the Jag, the sound was vastly improved over the OE fit Jag unit. 😉 😄

Another thought crossed my mind just now John, you can buy double-DIN stereos with screens that serve as sat-navs (using Google Maps because they're Android based) and also reversing cameras. Usually these screens are just under 7" wide (DIN width) and usually about 5.5-6" high so would be in the region of a 9" screen. That's assuming your S Type is post-facelift and it will fit easily.

My choice would be to use the Google Maps app on your smartphone if you use one. Always freely updated and provides live alerts to delays and offers alternative routes. However, if you really want a separate stand-alone unit, my choice would be Garmin. I was using their kit in the late 90s for precise naigation on board ships (there were reasons it had to be precise) and their kit was always reliable. They have been at it longer than Tom-Tom, i wish i'd had the money to develop the idea i had of a commercial sat-nav before Tom-Tom did but that's another story! Yes, Garmin tend to be more expensive than Tom-Tom but for a stand-alone, they are the best IMHO. Try and negotiate free updates as i believe they are chargeable and with so much development going on the roads are always changing. I remember buying a brand-new sat-nav in 2008 and it was already outdated, not even a free first update to make it current included in the price. That said it was a run-out model but even so! It showed me driving through fields on roads i knew were already a year old at the time.