LairdScooby

My choice would be to use the Google Maps app on your smartphone if you use one. Always freely updated and provides live alerts to delays and offers alternative routes. However, if you really want a separate stand-alone unit, my choice would be Garmin. I was using their kit in the late 90s for precise naigation on board ships (there were reasons it had to be precise) and their kit was always reliable. They have been at it longer than Tom-Tom, i wish i'd had the money to develop the idea i had of a commercial sat-nav before Tom-Tom did but that's another story! Yes, Garmin tend to be more expensive than Tom-Tom but for a stand-alone, they are the best IMHO. Try and negotiate free updates as i believe they are chargeable and with so much development going on the roads are always changing. I remember buying a brand-new sat-nav in 2008 and it was already outdated, not even a free first update to make it current included in the price. That said it was a run-out model but even so! It showed me driving through fields on roads i knew were already a year old at the time.

Welcome aboard Anthony! I also recently bought my first S Type (but 3rd Jag overall) and am rapidly learning that not all repair procedures apply to all years, not all trim is the same and many things are VIN related. So far i've been welcomed and had help from several members, John (above) being one of the more helpful. 😉 😄

Not likely, the timing is controlled by the engine management ECU/PCM and therefore shouldn't allow pinking/pre-ignition/detonation/pinging unless the EML/MIL is lit in which case the codes need to be read and the cause investigated. If it is the little ends as i suggested, it is often worse on cold start (and cold engines shouldn't be revved hard anyway) and either way, worse under load. Piston slap is more of a knock than a rattle too.

Thanks John i'd already found some bulbs on fleabay as it happens from a seller i've used before and bulbs that either i've used or someone i know has. They're also very wallet friendly! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372067399765 A comparison photo taken one evening several years ago, all Rover 800s, all beams previously checked for correct alignment and from left to right, the H4 version of what i've linked to above, LED headlamp bulbs and then Nightbreakers. As you can see, the LED bulbs are brightest and have the best definition of the beam pattern (but they were expensive LED bulbs!), the next best is in fact the cheap ebay H4 "Xenon look" bulbs and the Nightbreakers are pretty poor by comparison. As such i'm dubious about buying bulbs that are on the pricey side with promises of being able to see better in the dark although your comments on the performance of the Ring Xenon 200 are very welcome and duly noted. For now i'll get some of those ebay ones and if they deteriorate more quickly than i hope then i'll give the Xenon 200s a try. I have to confess i'm halfway tempted to buy a set of filament bulbs to fit annually for the MoT and a set of LED bulbs for the rest of the year.

From your description, i'd say the little ends are shot. Could also be piston slap but that's usually more obvious when it's cold going up a steep hill in a higher gear than you should. When did it last have an oil/filter change?

Very useful thread for me as i was after confirming the bulbs are in fact H7 - used my S Type for the first time after dark the other night only to discover dipped beam is horrible! Bulbs are dim and yellow, because of the age of the car i can't use LED upgrades so now hunting some decent H7 bulbs. The clip is easy - push on the "bridged" part until it's free then lift up to clear the bayonet - come across that on other cars but not the S Type so far, will soon though and yes, i may eat the word "easy"! 😛

As the saying goes, anything is possible! I'm still working on my S-Type (similar to the pic above) and have decided to make a replacement fascia panel as none exist for the early pre-facelift cars. I've heard (but not sure) the XJ uses the same size/shape fascia as the early X-Type but whether that's correct or not is another matter. try searching for Autoleads and their online catalogue to see what's available for yours. 😉 😄

Holy thread resurrection Batman! 😛 I'm looking to do similar to my recently acquired 1999 S-Type Chris, can you give me any hints/tips please that would make life easier plase? Seems there are umpteen different head units fitted as standard to the early models, mine has green VFD rather than the later LCD display if that gives any clues? Looks like you had the same as your heater controls are the same (visually) as mine.

Thanks John - any recommendations on the code reader? I have a generic OBD-II code reader but having looked through some of the diagrams, it doesn't seem to be possible to use on the the S-Type. Other than that, my old beastie had code readers built in to the ECU and/or would flash warning lights once a link had been connected in the right place and the other beast i regularly use doesn't have fault code memory so no codes stored. The multimeter is useful on that one! 😛 Thanks Joe, i've found the link for jagrepair already but thanks for confirming it's a good one! Looking at the diagrams, only other thing is can see is F14 (10A) as being a possible cause of the heater valves not closing but that also appears to feed the SRS circuit and i've not noticed the SRS light on at all - even when just at position 2 without starting. I'll have to be more observant next time i start it!

Thanks Joe, i had a feeling that might be the case but thought i would ask. Along similar lines, the module that actually does the hard work for the AC of switching the heater valve, the one above the glovebox (can't think of the name just now), i'm guessing that's not interchangeable between early and late cars either? No prizes for guessing, the AC only blows hot or hotter, depending on temperature selected! The dealer fitted a new heater control valve but that hasn't fixed it. On a very steep learning curve at the moment! 😉 😄

Thanks Peter, always good when you find a rattle isn't something to worry about! 👍

Hi all, just been reading through this thread and it seems as if it might have the answer to at least one of my questions. Just picked up a 1999 S-Type 3.0 SE and the one-touch only works on the drivers window going down, no one-touch closing. Seeing a couple of comments, it appears to be correct for early S-Types? If so, is it possible to retro-fit the later Door Module to gain one-touch on all windows? My other questions will need to go in different threads as although still electrical, they aren't related to windows. Thanks in advance

Thanks Peter! As it happens, i picked up the wee beastie today : Only 78k and one owner from new, fitted LPG conversion, full service history (mostly Jag dealer then indy), drove really well and managed to negotiate a bit off the price for the common heater blowing hot problem because the heater valve isn't closing. Allegedly the heater valve has already been changed so it points to the ECU or control panel i believe. As you can see, it's near enough immaculate inside and out although i've found a couple of trim niggles that need fixing, one is the left door mirror cover and the other is the sill trim in the boot which appears to have been damaged during the LPG tank installation. Also thought i had a piece of loose trim on the dash until i touched it to silence it on the way home and discovered it was in fact a coin tray with about £1.40 in 20p pieces! Only a small victory but a win is a win! 😉 😄

Hi All, through a series of strange incidents over the past 18 months, it looks like i will soon be rejoining the ranks of Jaguar owners! In the past i've had a 1984 Series III XJ Sovereign 4.2 followed by a 1989 XJ40 3.6 Sovereign and unless the S-Type i'm looking at turns out to be a complete shed, it looks like i'll soon own a 1999 3.0 SE. If it all happens, i'll add some pics and some more details, for now i thought i'd say hello anyway!