actros

Jag30 Thanks for that. I need to give the leather a spring clean

Hi Clifford I would suggest air in your cooling system. This may be due to coolant being drained i.e antifreeze renewal by previous owner. One way to check this (Make Sure Engine is Cold), take off one end of the highest water pipe on your engine and manually fill it with water and try to refit without losing too much of the water you've just added. You should also have a bleed screw on the top of the engine. Best of luck

Hi Guys You might like to try this leather car freshener; I quite like it myself. Cheap as chips on fleabay, the only drawback is they don't last that long; a month at most. Don't place them anywhere near a heat source, heater vents etc. I attach mine to the driver's seat controls. Martyn (Actros)

Hi Allan Had a very similar problem to the one you described on my 2.7. Mine would start and after a few seconds, it would cut-out. Tried blanking off egr valves and this made no difference. My fault was rectified within a matter of minutes - it was the MAP sensor clogged up. Take off the top engine cover and the sensor concerned is right on the top with a three wire plug attached and one screw holding in place. Remove screw and withdraw. The underside is a small cone shape with a hole in the middle. Make sure hole is open (may have to scrape some crud off) and clean with carb cleaner or petrol and air line then, refit. Hope this helps Martyn (Actros)

Hi Guys Changed the front wheel bearing on my S type as a complete hub assembly which was a fairly easy job or, at least I thought. New bearing hub fitted and now the ABS fault is showing on the dash. Checked ABS sensor cable connections between hub and main loom and even replaced said cable with the old one which was working fine prior to removal but still no joy. Can anyone throw some light on this or suggest anything which might have caused my problem or how to rectify the fault Martyn (Actros)

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I have been informed that the heater control valve (situated directly behind the radiator) is the main culprit. It gets corroded and the solenoids fail to operate. Replacement cost around £125-150

Hi guys Since I posted my remarks about re-mapping my 2.7, there has been a great deal of interest shown by quite a few members so I thought I had better expand on the topic. There is two ways re-mapping can be carried out and both have plus and minus points. Firstly, you can have your own ECU directly re-mapped and some say this is the best way (debatable) as it is allegedly tailored to a specific car. The downside is when you sell the car you have to start all over again. The other way is a stand alone module (the system I chose). Yes it can cost a little bit more but I can adjust min for economy, performance etc from within the cockpit. Also, when I sell my car, the module stays with me and the car reverts back to standard spec. (To re-program the module for another car costs around £60) Check out the website www.tdi-tuning.co.uk and see for yourself. Martyn (actros)

Hi Carl Working away at the moment but as soon as I can I will post some more datails as I know quite a bit of interest has been shown by various members.

Hi Dan Perhaps you can post some contact details; phone and email address. Thanks

The timing belt change interval is 106,000 miles but the fuel pump belt is non-timed and good for around 150,000 miles

Because I went down the savings to the environment route, my premiums remained unaltered

Hi guys One thing that I would suggest on the 2.7 diesel is an ecu re-map. I had mine done and the results are astonishing with better mpg, more bhp (207 up to 254) far better pedal response and torque in abundance. My car feels so much more "alive" £300 well spent. Martyn (actros )

Hi Guys My S type 2.7 diesel (2004) will not blow cold air when air con is switched on instead, it blows warm. Someone told me it could be the heater control valve whatever and where ever that may be. Can anyone throw some light on this subject please? Actros (Martyn)

Hi Guys I have two enquiries to which I hope someone can help me with. Can the main beam/drive lights on the S type be adjusted separately from the outer dip beam only headlights. The dip beam lights are set to mot standards but my main beams are not aiming where I would like them. Secondly, my front parking sensors work fine but the rear ones do not work. Upon selecting reverse, I get the three second warning sound indicating the rear sensors are not working. Can anyone help in this regard? Is it likely to be a sensor or sensors failure or the sensor module itself. Can a test be conducted to establish the fault? Regards, Martn

Magic tree does a freshener which is quite pleasant

Hi Paul Why not consider guide (or scuff) rails. Two rails bolted to the floor say 2" high so as not to damage your rims. Similar to what HGV's use to get squarely onto loading bays. Two round pipes with mounting plates would do the job nicely. Regards Martyn

Harmz, hi buddy. Before you go down the head gasket route, there are several things you need to check just to be certain. 1. Is there any oil in the cooling system/Is there any water in the oil? (Any good mechanic can help with confirming this) but the obvious signs is a whitish foamy substance inside the oil filler cap / oil floating inside your header tank 2. Have you had the cooling system leak check done at full operating temperature i.e. pressurised or better still, had the cooling system pressure checked where air is forced into the system and readings taken (most garages can perform this easy task) as it only takes a pin hole in a rubber hose whilst under pressure to loose your coolant. 3. This is not going to be liked by many but as last resort, try a bottle of K-Seal by Kalamex (around £10.00 from most car accessory stores) added to the cooling system. Best of luck Martyn

Used my s type today (2004/2.7) and key fob worked fine although the range was clearly diminishing then, it gave up the ghost completely. Changed the battery but still absolutely nothing. Does the key have to be re-linked to the car somehow? Help!!!! Martyn

Hi guys My S type 2.7 diesel take a long time to warm up the cabin (as much as ten miles of driving). Could be the heater control valve sticking or shorting as I was led to believe that these cars warm up pretty quickly. Thanks

Hi Guys (and girls of course). Recently purchased a 2.7 sport with quite high mileage (105,000) but before I even think about driving my car, I am going to give it a full, and I mean a full service. Diff oil changed, gearbox oil and sump changed and all the usual filters etc. However, the timing belt is I job I am not looking forward to doing and this is my problem. The main timing belt at the front of the engine seams straight forward enough but I am a little confused as I keep hearing of a rear belt. Is this belt actually at the rear of the engine or is this a reference to being behind the other timing belt at the front of the engine. Is this a job for a reasonably competent diy mechanic or should I entrust a garage to perform this task? Martyn (new member)

Being a first time owner of a "S" type 2.7 diesel (2004), I have heard one or two horror stories concerning the oil coolers fitted to this car. Apparently, it or they are fitted integral in the radiator. Following a rather nasty experience on a previous car where the internal oil way within the cooler failed, I was left with a totally destroyed engine. Has anyone experienced this sort of issue with a Jaguar and would fitting stand alone air-cooled oil cooler(s) be a good way forward? Regards, martyn