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Needs activating in cars config file (CCF). It can be downloaded/uploaded with Pathfinder, but needs to be edited outside of it as it hasn't got editor same as SDD

Hi. My 2017 doesnt have the heated wheel. Apart from filling a heated wheel does anybody know what else I have to do to get it to work? Many thanks. Lee

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

Many thanks John, The guy i got the car from said that he had the sills replaced so i am hoping that worry is eliminated, Somebody did tell him that the smoke could be the turbo but as I cant smell oil in the smoke I figured that wasn't the issue, But saying that my knowledge of turbo's is very little. The coolant level is a bit difficult to monitor as the car isn't being used but a good sniff of the expansion bottle & a visual check shows no sign of contamination & no sign of custard on the oil filler cap either, I will try the hanky thing & see what colour that catches, (hopefully not a pinky colour!) but smelling it it has a strong smell of diesel, This is the first diesel engine I have had to attack as i have never had issues with one before so pretty much going in blind, As it is a right pig to start from cold I have ordered some glow plugs to see if that will at least help the starting problem, I will report back on any progress (if any) is made.

HI, can any member please recommend a body repair specialist in the northumberland area for my XK8 Many Thanks Dave

Hi Tim and welcome. For me you have not yet eliminated turbo issues. "White" smoke to me indicates either coolant in the exhaust from something like a cylinder head gasket leak or oil burning which can come from a whole host of places. I would start by checking coolant level and condition. Basically you are looking for falling level and/or oil contamination. If that all looks good I would be thinking oil smoke. I always used to try holding a white hanky over the exhaust when revving the engine to see what is actually coming out which might help. ....and just to be pessimistic whilst you are at ground level it is worth having a look at the state of the sills, not the outer painted plastic which will be fine but the metal underneath which are very prone to rust. Just part of the joy of X-Type ownership 🙂 Good luck, John

2010 JaguarXK Trying to find one that is less than $ 188.00 which seems over the top, any ideas?

maybe there's air lock in te system?

Hi all, New member & new Jag owner, I am one of those people who hates seeing cars going to scrap & would rather save them where possible, Anyhow I have just purchased a 2004 X type estate 2.0 diesel which is very tidy for the year & good service history as a replacement for my old Rover 75 which got beyond saving (I saved if from scrap 10 years ago & got 80,000 out of her), The Jag seemed the obvious choice as the look & size is very similar to my old Rover so when I saw one come up with no MOT that needed saving I jumped at it, I done my homework first on the bad starting, erratic tick over & smoke issue this one has & I thought I had it covered, (EGR problem was what I got from asking around). So I set about getting under the bonnet today & removed the EGR & manifold, & sure enough the EGR seemed to be stuck solid so replaced it, Started the old girl up &, , , , , , , , ,dammit still the same, So my obvious question is where do i go next?, The smoke has no oil smell to it so i guess that eliminates the turbo, The smoke looks kind of white in colour which to what i read is due to it running lean, I am sure others have got better knowledge than me so I am passing it over to you guys!, , , , , ,Many thanks.

Hi By the sounds of it the transponder chip has fell out of the fob when you have take the key/remote apart the battery only effects the opening and closing of the car doors, starting is by a transponder chip in the remote, there two types of transponder chip and small black plastic type chip, about 10mm long and a cylindrical glass type chip, if it wont start this is missing you need to find it and slot it back in the key part of the remote/key pics below, but the are only about 10mm long cheers joe

hi Ideally you need to plug in and see what faults you get, they should point you to the right direction if coolants ok, could be a bad coolant level sensor or waterpump, plugging in should tell you and you could also monitor the cooland temp, as the gauges on most jaguars dont show correct temp, they just a visual indicator, the either show normal or full, high temp, there usually no in between, but with a diagnostic tool you can actually monitor the actual temperature cheers Joe

Abhor

Hi everyone! i own a 68 plate Jaguar epace, 65k on the clock. A couple of weeks ago my engine coolant light came on, but when I looked my engine coolant was full. fast forward to today and my ‘engine overheating’ warning came on so I pulled over. Again, I checked and coolant was full. when I turned my car off it made a loud sound like it was working hard to try and cool down, but as I say coolant was full. Anyone experienced this, and any idea what it could be before I pay out?

Hello...another new sign up....I have an S-type 2002 with a mere 36k on the clock and in great condition - but its sometimes temperamental! Looking forward to advice from more experienced heads..such a lovely car....best philio

i would say it's there for a reason. your call👍

Around 6 months ago the os front brake guard came loose and while I was having some tyres changed the fitter removed it for me. Now the ns has suffered the same fate and the scraping noise is driving me nuts! What are the benefits of these guards and is there any detriment to removing them permanently? TIA

Thanks will get ot checked

The battery on my 2003 Jaguar S Type spare key fob died. Having replaced it, it now opens and locks the car doors but cannot start the engine, stating that the steering wheel is locked. What should I do?

I possess a 3.5 SE Type, which I bought brand new in 2002. I put the car into the garage for a few repairs under the bonnet. It was at this time that the Garage informed me that the sills (both sides) are rusted badly! The car is now scrap and off the road, but mechanically & the interior are in good condition. I would like to get rid of the car to make room for another vehicle. Therefore, I was wondering if anyone is interested in having the car for spare parts?

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

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Thank you very much

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly