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Good luck with the sale, but can't help think it would be better to have posted in the Marketplace Section of the Forum, at the bottom of the page. Unlikely folks are going to come looking in the Model Section of the Forum for cars up for sale. N6 JMX

F Type In Showroom condition rare red 2.0 ltr Dynamic R Variant with genuine 9800 miles 2018 car is currently on a pvt plate for any checks required E1WOK but that will ve be staying with me Just flown through its MOT no dents rust or marks on body or alloys First person who is after 1 and see will buy she is a beut Only selling as now retired and don't need 2 cars Pics on request Either use [email protected] Or ring me direct 07801339915 Live in Cumbria Ca288ba region Car won't be available long so act now if u want it Looking for offers around 30K

Great news Steve and thanks for the update.

Thanks very much for your comments. Regards Alan

Start with the basics, check the diff oil level. It takes about 750ml of fluid and is simple to suction out and refill, not a bad idea since original 19yr old fluid will be in there. I use Smith & Allen FS 75w-140.

Thank you Jim, simplifies things when you have an idea of what does what! I have found the fault and rectified it in a couple of minutes, problem was the vacuum module which is located under the battery tray, for some reason one of the multi pin plugs was not fully connected?? Don’t know why? It’s now making full contact and system is working properly! pedal is now solid. Just have to put everything back together again and job done! I am surprised that I didn’t get a DTC for this fault. Thanks again Regards Steve H.

Still available, I don't have an XJR to put it on !

Here is the electrical manual for your car, figure 05.1 refers. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/JaguarXType/2007XTypeElectrical.pdf

Only SDD/IDS can access immobiliser faults. Then you can remove the battery sounder and strike it off the dealer options. A fault signal from the battery sounder will trigger the main alarm. Diagnostics will tell you if a module is playing up, all in all recommended. Until then you are doing as much as you can.

penalties

Fees (regrettably!)

Tuition

Thanks

2006 2.1 petrol xtype. UP28 vacuum pump is not getting any power from its supply source (abs module?) meaning I have a spongy brake pedal, pump is okay. Can someone help me out with the diagram showing the power supply to the pump. thanks in advance Steve H

Good luck with the sale and sorry to hear of your diagnosis. Reminds me of my first Jag ~30 years ago, Sov 4.2, same colour and year on an Irish "private" plate. Visually very similar externally but interior is very different and obviously it was missing 6 cylinders!

Rare chance to get a rare car. 1983 was the III series, the last of the Vanden Plas. Only 140 were made and this is thought to be one of only 2 left. Near full service history, last full one in October 2024. Immaculate walnut wood interior with gold banding. Beautiful cream leather with bespoke piping to match claret car colour. Kent alloys plus spare. Working electric windows and sun roof, original tool kit and first aid kit the list goes on. 12 page valuation of £18,000. Number plate valued at £1,000, cars nickname Lucifer. Selling well below value due to diagnosis and getting affairs in order. offers around £9,000. Please

Still worth checking your tyres though, also your exhaust may have a minor leak causing a drone/vibration or even just a missing hanger. Without hearing and/or seeing the car, this is one of those things where every guess is a needle in a haystack, could be a wheel bearing even.

Can anyone recommend a reliable company to have it checked? I live near Ramsgate, Kent.

Thanks for your comments, I have brand new Pirelli P7's all round so I don't think it is related to the tyres. I agree with you, I do think it's to do with the prop shaft. I just need to find somewhere to have a look. Many thanks Alan

It could be a number of things, my favourite guess would be propshaft centre bearing or tyres. Old tyres can be incredibly noisy, especially if they've developed a carbuncle orother deformation. Could be related to the first problem, seems like you need to have a good check over everything on the back end.

Morning all, I recently purchased a 2006 s type 3litre petrol. I have 2 problems, the first is when travelling from approximately 40mph and above, what I would describe as a droning and a slight vibration becomes very evident from the rear, lifting your foot off the gas makes no difference, the droning continues until you get below approximately 40mph. Could this be a prop shaft problem? second problem is, whilst your foot is on the gas at any speed there is a slight, what I would call, humming from the back, as soon as you lift your foot off the gas the humming stops, put your foot back on the gas and it starts. Possible diff problem? Any thoughts on either of these would be most welcome. Alan

There's a classifieds / for sale section at the bottom of the Forum pages - go there. N6 JMX

Education (hopefully)

I know that there is an old post about this but I have a similar problem. The difference in my case is that the main car battery is new and fully charged and also not only does this alarm sound but it actually does immobilise the car. the car is a 2005 S type 2.7D So the situation is this: one hot day I heard the beeping noise from under the bonnet of the car. This was not the horn but a high pitched beeping which I had never heard before. Even though I unlocked the car with the fob, it still continued to beep and when I tried to start the engine, although it turned over, it would not start. I then disconnected the main battery and the alarm stopped. After 10 minutes I reconnected the battery but although the alarm did not sound, the engine still would not start. I then connected my iCarsoft diagnostics and it came up with 7 faults on the engine, including crankshaft position sensor, MAF sensors, Turbo boost solenoid, No 6 cylinder injector and others. This was without the engine running and had previously run perfectly. I then cleared all faults and the engine started normally. When I then ran the diagnostics there were no DTC faults. Now, if I leave the car locked overnight, the immobiliser has always activated in the morning. Whether the alarm sounded I don't know as I can't hear it from my bedroom. If I leave the car unlocked then it is fine in the morning. Can anyone advise me as it appears that I cannot access the immobiliser with the iCarsoft LR V3.0

I travel regularly by ferry. Just use only the first click which locks but doesn't set the alarm. Second click dies set the alarm