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Hi. If the gear selector was to fail on Jaguar Xf 3.0d v6 x260 2017 with 50k on the clock, while driving. What effect could this have on the engine ? The D was flashing during the total lost of power. This all happened within 20/30 seconds of lost of power. Reason for the enquiry is my car engine sized up with no warnings. The gear selector was stuck in park and couldn’t be moved. The rear wheels wouldn’t move even after releasing the break catch release under the bonnet. My independence Jaguar specialist garage is informed me the electric break was broken. Any help or advice would be appreciated. With thanks

Hi Thanks for your reply. Service has always been carried out by dealership Barr the last one. 80k service, believe this includes the oil change carried out by the dealership at 37299 miles 7-2022. 96k service carried out 46k In December 2023. By independent garage, only repairs Jaguar cars, 30 years experience, trained by Jaguar at the start of his career. Car’s mileage is at 50k now. From my research this isn’t a rare issue. It’s how to prove there is it a problem with the engine, will cost 2-3k to strip the engine to find the cause. What was strange was the flashing of the D during the break down and unable to move the gear nob from park. Rear wheels locked. This was after releasing the brake under the bonnet. Garage told me the brake release was broken. Not sure if this in anyway is connected combined with the flashing D on the dash Any info would be appreciated. With thanks

Sorry in advance if this has been covered before! This is my 15th Jaguar (2007 2.7 diesel) I keep leaving the lights on and would like to know if it should have a warning chime. I don't actually get any audible warnings at all ,only parking sensors. Please help as my neighbour is getting a little annoyed ------- -- at letting me know.

Pic's should be here now 🙂

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My 2014 Jaguar XFR 5litre V8 510 HP Supercharged in Metallic British Racing Green is looking for a new owner! The car drives like a new car with just 67,000 miles on the clock. I have been in possession of this beast for just over 3 years and can say it behaves perfectly in all conditions. The traction control is superb as is the general ride. There has been 1 previous owner and there is full service history from the day it was first registered. I am looking for £15,500 or near offer - to a good home! The car is in the M26 area of Manchester. Please call me on 07971 559094 if you are interested. Oh, it’s back on its original DVLA Registration number as the private plate has been reassigned. Pic’s to follow

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Welcome Ellen, sounds like you have the beginnings of a "collection" there. N6 JMX

Hi All, New girl here from the West Midlands. New to the site but not to Jaguar. Just picked up an F-Pace, but had my XF for the past 8 years. Many Thanks Ellen

Please note that when you replace the battery, you will need to "tell the car" that a new battery has been installed. This allows the battery control module to reset the alternator charging rates. This is achieved via the OBD port and a plugged in suitable code reader, which most garages should be able to undertake. N6 JMX

Hi again Jim, My own car is an XKR Convertible and possibly one of the most photographed cars in the UK - it is in quite a rare colour scheme and always attracts attention at shows / outings. I parked on my local High Street last week when I was off for a haircut and came back an hour later with several folks standing around admiring the car. Everyone wanted to chat about it. So, the the answer to your initial question is YES, Jaguar did make a convertible version of the New XK (X-150) and the chassis is stiff enough to allow full use of the 510PS in my car. I have no intention of changing my car so next car specification is not relevant, I have exactly what I want and it is going to be growing old with me - already owned it for 12 years. There are around 10 good XK Convertibles for sale on the JEC Classifieds site at the moment and I would suggest you have a look there to see if anything catches your eye. Link is: jec.org.uk/classifieds/index.php?page=cars-for-sale&pg=1&category=1608 I live a bit too far away from you to assist in the physical purchase of a car, but if you want to PM me regarding any specific car you have an interest in, I will see what I think. N6 JMX

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Again thanks for the advice I still have a hankering for a convertible, did Jaguar do one? If so was the chassis stiff enough to handle the grunt of the supercharged motor. What is the spec for your next car? Best regards Jim

Again thanks for the advice I still have a hankering for a convertible, did Jaguar do one? If so was the chassis stiff enough to handle the grunt of the supercharged motor. What is the spec for your next car? Best regards Jim

I Agree, these are great cars and well worth the effort they require from those of us who love them 🙂 Slightly worried about the " used to start a wagon before" and "after using the booster everything is now dead". I hope the booster was set to 12v not 24v......😫 Good luck

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Sounds like it's lost a cell or two. That's the usual sort of figure i would expect from one dud cell. Disconnect (and insulate) the battery lead from the alternator and unplug the warning light/field wire so the alternator can't generate then try a fersh battery. It's possible if the alternator is dead and shorting the battery, it's what killed the battery or maybe even vice versa. Once you get past these problems, you'll be glad you persevered. 😉 😄

Hi everyone thanks for your reply’s, let’s start from the beginning the first time it happened I opened the car and every thing lit up like normal pressed the brake and pushed the start button, the ignition lights came on like normal but I got a click when the engine should fire like a sticking starter or a flat battery. After some swearing eventually it started. Now when it did it the second time I had no luck in actually getting the car to start so we proceeded to use a booster pack, the booster pack we used is a 1500amp beast that my friend has used to start a wagon before. Now before we used the booster pack the interior lights were working and ignition was coming on like normal and after using the booster everything is now dead. Since getting the car transported home where I could work on the car stress free because originally I was stranded away from home and I had work in a couple of hours. I checked everything in the boot that I could, all the fuses tested fine and all the cables were tight but I found 2 corroded plugs on the rear bcm. I have cleaned the pins and plugs but it has made no difference also the battery that had been fully charged to 14.4v had drained down to 2v whist being still connected to the car for a week and now it won’t take a charge I could only get it too 9.5v last night so I would say it’s goosed. I’m purchasing a new battery and if that doesn’t help a alternator as mine was fitted in 2018 and I have seen so many comments on how these cars eat alternators plus I’ve read a story of another xf acting exactly the same as mine and the alternator had burnt out causing such a draw from the battery that there was nothing left for the rest of the car. Also I’m going to check the front bcm and all the wiring in the drivers wheel arch as I believe there is an earth wire in there. Perhaps a new battery is all it needs and we finally killed the battery with the booster pack I just don’t know, I’m fed up of this car as much as I love it I really wish I never bought it.

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I agree with the principal assertion here that the battery on the vehicle has to be suspect, followed by: 1. A corroded / suspect earth point(s). 2. A failed Starter Motor. I would not try a jump start from a slave vehicle as that may transfer issues from one to the other. Start by fully charging the existing battery using the correct charger such as a Ring Automotive Smart Charger, the version with the LCD screen that indicates the battery status when charging. A battery that can take a charge should be able to be at 90% within 12 hours of connecting up and switching on. REMEMBER you are dealing with an AGM battery so it is vital the chosen charger has that capability. As given earlier, if a "standard" charger has already been used, then the innards of the AGM battery may already be shredded. If you are not confident with battery tests, or indeed don't have access to the correct charger, then remove the battery from the car and hand it to a qualified Auto Electrician to both charge and test. You need to eliminate possible causes in an ordered manner. N6 JMX

Hi Martin, this sounds like a really bad experience and one that I am pretty sure must be quite rare as these engines are generally VERY reliable. I have heard of 300k miles on these engines, without missing a beat, so you have either been very unlucky, or something has gone truly amiss inside the engine. The fact that your car has been taken to "a reliable Jaguar Specialist" would indicate that you have not been using a main dealer for your servicing works, has that always been the case in your possession? You may want to get in touch with Jaguar Cars Customer Services, but I doubt they are going to be very sympathetic, unless you have detailed records of any works carried out, including oil specifications as used at the oil changes, any other work undertaken by you since 2018, etc. A seizure without warning, even a high temperature or a low oil light is mystifying, so not sure what to suggest further, but good luck going forward. N6 JMX

Hi Dave. Wow, you know your stuff. Thanks again for your input. I'll look into your suggestions. Cheers, Graham.

At the risk of preaching to the converted John, that depends whether the battery is ok or not, if it's gone it may hog all the available jump start current. Also depends on whether the "slave" vehicle has a big enough battery to fire up a Jag.