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I've found a lot of YT posters do a "Part 1" and "Part 2" to increase their views. Might be worth tapping on the posters ID pic and then "Videos" to see if there's another in their collection explaining the refill procedure. It's different for many models in the Jaguar range so i don't want to mention the method i know in case i send you on a wild goose chase.

That’s very true. Luckily I get access to a Motor club at work, which has 4 post ramps and everything a mechanic could wish for Christmas. I’ve found a video of how to remove the fluid, but struggling to find one about how to put the new fluid in.

You'll know! 😉 Joking aside, if you drip some of the removed fluid onto a piece of plain white kitchen roll or toilet paper, you'll see the true colour and how much dirt is in there. Once it remains as clean as the new fluid (very slight discolouration may happen) then you know it's clean fluid and the 3-4 part-changes have done their job. Then do a part-change every 12 months/12000 miles to keep it fresh. Some people refer to this as a "sump-dump change" so you can search YouTube for it for an XKR and get an idea of what exactly is involved. Then you can decide if you're capable of doing it. I'd say it's easy enough but as we all know, what's easy for one person isn't for another. I'm absolutely useless with software and artistic painting but those who can do say it's easy enough..........

I will check thank you. So to clarify, you recommend part fluid change every couple hundred miles, over a full change? Silly question, but how will I know when all the fluid has been changed? Is this something that’s easily done myself?

On that we definitely agree! All auto boxes should have periodic fluid changes, i'm an advocate of dong multiple part-changes when i first get a car (ATF history isn't usually documented or sometimes fudged by the "garage" doing it) so that the gearbox isn't subject to the shock of new thick fluid all in one go. Doing 3-4 part-changes a few hundred miles apart gives a full change as good (sometimes better) than a flushing change but with vastly reduced risks of blowing dry seals that will self-revive with the additives in the new fluid. Also important (especially on S Types, not so sure on others) to beware of different fluid requirements, up to 2002, it needed something along the lines of Dexron III/NAPA MVA/Carlube ATF-U and later cars need something light Dexron VI and i can't remember equivalents for that. Double check which box you have in your new XKR Lucas and pick the right fluid for the box, not what some "guide" says is needed for the car.

Thank you. The car is just over 100k so I will clarify if that’s been done. If not I’ll get it done

Thanks for the welcome Dave. I joined specifically to advise about this and although an xk8 fan, I'm not so keen on that they're prone to corrosion. Good luck with the purchase Lucas. Xkr g/box is stronger than that of the xk8 on the 4 litre cars. I think all of the boxes could benefit having their fluid renewed at about the 80k mile mark.

Thank you for the above! It was kind of good luck that the selling withdrew as they found something In the will regarding the car. I am actually on the way to purchase a 2002 XKR now!

All good points Guy and i'd agree but with the proviso that because it's an estate/bereavement sale, the vendors may not know if/where any records exist. Had a similar scenario with my S Type, came with ~11 months MoT when i bought it and no apparent rust on the back end. A year later it failed on rear end of sills (both sides) which necessitated some creative art with sheet metal and several hours work with the electric glue. My view is that either it rusted spectacularly in that year or the previous custodian paid Mr Magoo to write the MoT certificate out. Possibly he overlooked some "surface rust" that was in fact worse than it appeared. This is what i advised the OP to confirm - the rust has been sorted. *** EDIT *** Nearly forgot, welcome aboard!

Hi I'd walk away. Most of theses have rust but as there are so many for sale now and prices are so low you need to find a rust free example. This is the most important consideration. Youtube has a vid of where the rust gets in and is time-consuming (or expensive) to get at in order to repair. A proper engineer should have kept a record of what he'd done (eg at that mileage the g/box fluid should have been changed and documented) even if he'd clearly not done any welding. Rust can be difficult to see - especially for a novice - and any rust is highly likely to be the tip of an expensive iceberg in addition to everything else that will need doing, Well done for finding the rust but that's a bright red flag would be my advice.

Hi Jackie Sounds like you have a similar problem to one I had during lockdown. I let the battery completely discharge through lack of use. When AA got it started all OK except both rear doors remained locked and would not open. Mine was sorted under warranty but I understand a garage with the Autologic software can sort it quickly. I think the problem is that low voltage corrupts the software in one of the many computer modules so it needs re-coding. I have heard that these guys could help: https://www.eandeservices.co.uk/ They are in Luton but might be worth a call... Good luck John

Have you told the car it has had a new battery fitted? Also have you tried locking the doors with the key and/or manually inside the car?

My Jaguar estate xf has a problem. Doors stopped locking however key fobs were seen as engine started. Battery was replaced as low voltage but the doors still won’t lock. All the quick fixes have been tried. Any suggestions and help would be appreciated

I can't be sure on this but i've a feeling Smarty piggy-backs off Vodafone so may be worth getting your original SIM checked that they work in normal phones and/or substituting a known working SIM into the car in case there's a fault in the car system, rather than the SIM cards.

Hi Jon Smarty data only sim for £5 a month works just fine in my 2020 XE. Regards Rob

I am looking to convert a Jaguar V12 project from injection to carbs so looking for carbs and inlet manifolds please ?

This has all the hallmarks of low battery voltage. A full recharge should see you right.

Hi all, I need to replace the SIM card in my 2017 XF-S. I've tried two already and both are politely declined by the car, either not compatible (Vodafone) or can't be read (forget the brand of this one). Is there a SIM provider that's guaranteed to work in the XF. Any help gratefully received! Cheers! Jon

Started my XF after 6 days in my garage, we have temperatures as low as minus 13c, sluggish but started then i noticed the Red Warning on heads up display. I continued with my short journey returned to my garage. I looked under the bonnet to see belt was running, alternator connections secure. Switched off the ignition restarted again no warning signal. Has anyone experienced this. Any comments appreciated. `

Glad to hear you're all up and running again, worthwhile clearing that fault code for the furure - if something else happens and someone plugs in a reader it will show up and probably give a red herring to the diagnosis.

Hello Jim, Thanks for your Bagworld information , I will give them a buzz. Regards richard