Leaderboard

Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Hi all, For information, the Climate Control Unit module (passenger footwell) was defective. Impossible to reach screws, so just cable tied replacement unit to defective unit. Mike

....also I would check the age of your "new" tyres. Code for date is last 4 digits following DOT on the sidewall, first two are the week number and last two the year. So 0101 would show tyres made in the first week of 2001. If your code is 3 figures they are older than 2000 so are downright dangerous! https://btmauk.com/2021/01/26/dot-code-celebrates-50-year-anniversary/ Regards John

Having worked most of my life in electrical/electronic engineering, I can confirm there is nothing more frustrating than having to write on the job sheet "NFFAT" - No Fault Found At Test. Over the decades ive had many "Intermittently Intermittent" faults as i call them. Sometimes it's has been a long and extremely annoying process to find the fault and often when i do, i find it's a "Compound Intermittent Fault" - one where two or more problems contribute to not only the intermittent fault but the overall intermittency of it occurring in the first place. I wish you and your autoelectrician luck with finding it, you may have to lose this battle to win the war and come to an arrangement with him whereby he comes to you when it faults to investigate. This isn't just a "Jag thing", it happens to all makes and some are much worse than others! 'Tis the nature of the beast with electrical/electronic systems sadly.

my XF in a nice wooded are on the day i bought it. Then at home after fitting a chin splitter. She looks mean.

Hi Lez. At that age you are probably going to struggle to get decent cover as most are limited to 10 years or 100k after which cover limit and items covered drops substantially. There are some that will go to 12 years and 120k but personally at 10yrs I would be going with your AA option and laying aside a couple of hundred a month in a savings account to "self insure" Good luck John

Hello. I am new to Jaguar and this club, living in North Hampshire. I have a 2017 XF 2.0 D, Recently need timing chain replacement including upgrade to prevent a recurrence. Fortunately covered by dealer warranty. Prior to negotiating the repair I funded a test £200 + vat) on a main dealer rig to know for sure if new chain was needed. Result was clear. Engine now sounds better and seems a bit more responsive. Sorry this may not be of any real help to you, but the failed test result came with dire warnings of possible outcomes if the job was not done. I expect you are aware of these. All the Best and Regards, Brian C

Free to a good home 1999 jaguar s type front and rear bumpers shells. In mistral blue. Taken from my 1999 3.0 se. Car long gone but have some spares in the garage. Had no plans to get another but now have a 2007 2.7d. So body panels will fit but bumpers a different style Need the space in my garage and they will Free Collection only Message me here Or email [email protected]

Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!

Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!

Yes it will as it is purely mechanical.🙄

Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.

I don’t think I’ve posted before, so hello. Im Matt owner of a X-Type 2.2 Sovereign estate. Photo credit.. Image taken from Moves like Jaguar You Tube Video JBC @ JLR Classic

You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.

The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

Greetings to all. For the last 17 years I have owned and used a Mercedes Vito van, after retiring this year, the van with 220,00 reliable miles on the clock was part exchanged for a 2019 XF Sportsbrake. The car is great, I am still finding my way with it as it is a far cry from a Vito Van! First long trip tomorrow. Southport to Scotland and back a 500 mile round trip which I am looking forward to.

Hi Lez, I agree with John above. My own Jaguar has been under warranty from new - Jaguar extended - and it is definitely a "peace of mind" thing. I reckon had I followed John's advice, I would be quid's in by now, but once you are in the warranty cycle, it is very difficult to step off it. N6 JMX

Rare chance to get a rare car. 1983 was the III series, the last of the Vanden Plas. Only 140 were made and this is thought to be one of only 2 left. Near full service history, last full one in October 2024. Immaculate walnut wood interior with gold banding. Beautiful cream leather with bespoke piping to match claret car colour. Kent alloys plus spare. Working electric windows and sun roof, original tool kit and first aid kit the list goes on. 12 page valuation of £18,000. Number plate valued at £1,000, cars nickname Lucifer. Selling well below value due to diagnosis and getting affairs in order. offers around £9,000. Please

I think on a 2001 XK the keyhole is on the lower right hand side of the bootlid, where the chrome badge is ?

Welcome aboard Andy, glad to hear your success story and long may that continue!

Well I checked the boot (both sides and spare wheel well) and absolutely no damp or water ingress at all, see pics below. I understand there are 3 modules for the parking aid system (rear sensors module, front sensors module and master) but I could not see any of them in the boot area, any one any idea where they are? Many thanks.

Welcome!

That's good enough for me, as it just looks good, My partner is having her nails done on Sat morning so I will be going with her to get the colours of my choice. I do not know why Green and Orange are the colours on an XKR, do you or anyone else know? I am a bit patriotic and will be going for Red and Blue, but I am told you can buy nail varnish in these colours. I will post a shot Spyderromeo

Thanks all!

Incidentally, if you are looking for a Club that deals exclusively with the Modern XK, you could think about joining the XKCC, see link below. The annual membership fee is only £10 and well worth it for the camaraderie and outings alone. Home | XKCC N6 JMX

Thanks for the comment. You are absolutely correct. That's why I bought an aluminium-bodied car this time. I have had a varied career, but spent thirty years in the motor industry building cars. I have always had the same intention; it's only now I can afford to buy what I wanted all along. I was in senior management, but not that senior that I could affect what we made. And I am an engineer and know that aluminium is not completely the answer but it is getting nearer. Jim My other cars are a Suzuki Swift Sports (just a day-to-day car but fun) and a track car a fibreglass-bodied, but properly chassisied Porsche 550 Spyder copy, with an Alfa flat four Engine. My general nickname is Spyderromeo

Start with the basics, check the diff oil level. It takes about 750ml of fluid and is simple to suction out and refill, not a bad idea since original 19yr old fluid will be in there. I use Smith & Allen FS 75w-140.

Photo of actual pump, black band which i think denotes something so need to check if its dual polarity.

Finally i got a Jaguar XE 25t 2019 with 45000 miles I found that the ingenium diesel has a lot of issues (with more critical the tensioners and the timing chain) and the same engine in petrol is better

Hello Rolland, I don't believe there is any programming. I just swapped them over Graeme

Hey there all. Very happy to be a part of the community finally Fatih here, 37 yo, engineer working in heavy trucks R&D in Germany. Lately I've got a beautiful 380 PS Eiger Grey 2018 Jaguar XE S. The car has 112k on the clock with black interior, 20" Propeller alloys and full Jag service history. Got her from Belgium and I brought to Germany (not a good German speaker, that's why I'm here actually ). There are some stuff I had to deal with: Done going back to stock intake from Cold Air Intake(for German MoT) Done going back from custom Ti catback to stock (again, MoT) Some TLC needed on the paintwork here and there Annoying crack on the outer lens of the cluster, dunno what to do honestly. F.ing mid section of the exhaust fell and scratched the Rear LHS door leather trim while bringing the car (had to carry inside, too big), again not sure what to do (repair or change). Pedals look rly worn, looking for a good F/P pair to renew. There's a missing small plastic part at the rear end of the roof drip molding strap, looking for some breakers for that. Car has no carpets, looking for a good one also fit for the trim. RHS hook in the boot is missing. Key fob metal part is quite banged up and spare key is missing There are also some other stuff I wanna go further with: F-type 3.23 FDR LSD retrofit Facelift Steering Wheel retrofit Facelift Rear End (imho rear-end is one of the weakest points of pre-facelifts, the front is other way around) A proper application of a smaller supercharger pulley with proper chip-tune Symposer delete SV8 Style front bumper Fantasy item: Bigger front brakes (SV8 or LR 3 Piston retrofit, hopefully bolt-on) Fantasy item: Carbon bonnet with vents Fantasy item: Custom alu/CF strut brace Any kind of suggestions or criticism is welcome. I'd love to hear your honest opinions about all above. Other cars include 2016 BMW F20 125d 2016 Renault Megane GT 2009 Alfa Romeo GT Q2 (in Istanbul) I also owned a 2010 XF 3.0D 240 PS before I moved to Germany. It was such a dream to drive, just a bit too heavy for my taste Again, hello everyone. Exciting to be here Cheers, Fatih

Hi, You wont get bored of it, had mine nearly 10 years and its been one of the most reliable cars I've owned. its been well looked after though, but it always manages to put a big smile on my face. The two best mods are the stainless exhaust, make the car's supercharged V8 sound like it should, great burble and the Jagdroid stereo, bringing the stereo up to modern times, with android 13 and all the features of a modern phone in the car, with the OE Jaguar look.

HI Alan, Welcome to Jaguar Owners.

So basically the issue is that it is too high of a risk and many dealers don't even want to do it anymore. The guy that is GURU at this told me that he just changes the IMC with latest SW as it costs less and less risk is involved. So my suggestion is to be on a hunt for a scrapyard IMC and change it, programm it via SDD if it is 2016-2017 model or pathfinder if it is a later model.