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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!

Yes it will as it is purely mechanical.🙄

Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.

I don’t think I’ve posted before, so hello. Im Matt owner of a X-Type 2.2 Sovereign estate. Photo credit.. Image taken from Moves like Jaguar You Tube Video JBC @ JLR Classic

Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!

You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.

The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Graham, sounds like an unfortunate experience there, but hopefully you can get it all back and working again. For the roof, you need to test with a multi meter that voltages are getting to the correct place, i.e. the correct fuse - remember that a fuse can "look" fine but only a resistance test would confirm, - the switch in the roof, etc. Can you hear any relay clicks as the roof switch is operated? In normal circumstances, the operation of the roof would not be linked to the replacement engine, but with Jaguar you never can tell. For the fan 1, could it be as simple as a connector loose / not reseated correctly after the engine installation. The fan should generate a fault code (DTC) of some description which can be read with an OBD code reader, which in turn would help point you in the right direction. N6 JMX

Use a piece of dental floss or thin fishing line, slide it behind and then using a to and fro motion slowly proceed from one end to the other. You will cut through the backing without damaging the paintwork. Then use a mild solvent to remove the excess on the panel. Make sure you mark where the badge sits first.

Thanks to you both for your opinions, much appreciated. May not have one fitted after all.

Hi Daniel, I think you are confused. The original post above refers to shockers for the XFS model, whilst you need to look at the shockers for the X-type model. A quick check on the Jaguar Classic Parts website indicates that the shocks for the X-type are around £150 per corner, which doesn't sound too bad. The shocks are obviously model specific, but also vary by the VIN, so you need to make checks to ensure you get the correct parts for your car. Check out at the link below - once you have the part numbers, you can search for suitable alternatives from other sources. X-type 2001 - 2010 (x400) Classic / Road Spring And Damper-rear | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts N6 JMX

Haha I think I lost mine too! I think anything over £20,000 I would be open to discuss

Right there with you scooby, changing is always better

Little tip with the inertia switch - tap the body of it with the handle of a screwdriver until you hear it deploy with a definite "bah-doy-nnng" then reset it. They have a habit of furring the contacts, especially if sat for a while and this can often cause the fuel pump to not run. Also try the spare key in case the transponder in your main key has died.

Well let's see if I can stick a pic on the site

Here is the electrical manual for your car, figure 05.1 refers. http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/JaguarXType/2007XTypeElectrical.pdf

good man, petrols are bullet proof comparing to those diesels. now enjoy 😄

Hello Rolland, I don't believe there is any programming. I just swapped them over Graeme

XK8 Key Fobs – A Repair, Sort Of……. Some thoughts, some ramblings, some ideas and one “sort of” solution about the LJA 2610BA XK8 4 Button Key Fob. I’m sure you all know the scenario. You walk up to the car and press the ‘Unlock’ Button and hey presto, nothing happens. You dance around the car, often hopping on one leg, whilst under your breath reciting ‘Abra Cadabra’ ( or some other words which I can’t possibly repeat here ) pressing and holding the button, waving it around the roof and ‘C’ pillars hoping that waving a virtual magic wand cunningly disguised as a Key Fob will actually make it work. The final incantation of ‘Open Sesame ‘ doesn’t work either at which point you give up and return indoors for a stiff drink ( strong coffee, what do you think I meant ? ) whilst you change the batteries for the second time in a week convincing yourself that the recently replaced batteries must have been faulty. Of course they aren’t and you are no further forward other than needing to visit the loo for a comfort break after supping even more coffee. I know that you could have opened the door with the key and listened to the countdown of the Alarm about to unleash all hell on me and the rest of the neighbourhood if I fail to get the key in the ignition in time to prevent this happening or even if I do manage to do this in time the Alarm fails to disarm and then both the Alarm and myself enter panic mode, I have a ( irrational ? ) fear of this, perhaps I’m not alone in this or is it just me that’s paranoid ? Answers to me on a free voucher for the local psychiatrist. The problem is of course wear on the contact pads of the Rubber Buttons, the solution is to replace the Rubber Pad. I’m talking about the four button one, LJA 2610BA and other similar variants, and here lies the rub. Not that many years ago this type of Fob Case complete with new Rubber Pad were readily available on line for about a fiver, now they all seem to made of that wonderful and oft used classic car material called ‘Unobtanium.’ Over the last few years I have travelled the world, virtually of course, and have found absolutely zero, none, zilch, of these available anywhere so what next ? POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS Repair Services. There are plenty of people out there offering repair/refurbishment of your existing Fobs and I assume that this includes repair of the electronics AND replacement of the Rubber Pads and Case. If so where do they obtain these parts ? These services are priced anywhere from £30 to £200, what the difference in prices may indicate I have no idea, but if all you need is the Rubber Pad even the cheapest is a bit steep. Even so if one of these guys are prepared to sell me just the Rubber Pad I may be prepared to pay over the odds to obtain a couple of spares. I haven’t asked any of them so have no idea if any of these repair services would be prepared to do a deal. The other thing I, probably unnecessarily, worry about using a repair service is the reprogramming of the repaired unit. Everyone seems to think that the reprogramming is a simple task that takes just a few minutes of flashing the lights in sequence and this may well be so, but at this point my paranoia rears it’s head again……. Graphite Buttons Graphite buttons are cheap and readily available. The idea is that you get the right size buttons and then glue them over the worn buttons on your Rubber Pads with some contact adhesive and then the job is done. My worry here is that this may be a one shot only job. If the buttons either don’t stick very well or don’t work for some reason then that’s the end, the contact adhesive will have probably ruined whatever was left of the functionality of your existing buttons, however poor they were they are now a darned sight worse. Consequently I haven’t tried this. Modifying Different Rubber Pads I thought I may have cracked it with this idea. I bought a 5 Button Rubber Button Pad for Jaguar X S F TYPE XJ XK XF XKR remote smart key. It looked like with a bit of judicial trimming and some fettling it would fit inside my Fob and the key markings and spacing looked pretty much the same, as indeed they are. Unfortunately the finger pad part of the buttons do not protrude through the Fob, they are far too shallow. You could extended the finger pads by gluing some rubber or something similar on top of them but you would lose the markings and I think even then the contact part of the buttons would be far too long so constantly touching the contacts and permanently activating the electronics, this would probably confuse the car as much as me and as for battery life….. I think this idea could work if we could discover which type of Rubber Pad could be modified, however I have no clue as where to start on this. My Solution The only solution I can offer right now is using some electrically conductive paint on the contacts of the buttons on the Rubber Pad. The stuff I used is in the pic, other similar products are available and all are easily and cheaply obtainable from well known on line retailers. It’s easy to use. Remove the Rubber Pad from the Fob and clean the contact part of the buttons with Isopropyl Wipes or liquid IPA or similar. Apply a small amount of the “ paint “ to each of the contact buttons and let it dry, make sure it’s totally dry before putting it all back together. I know that you’ll be eager to try and see if it works but be patient ! Whilst you are in the Fob carefully clean the gold contact pads of the PCB, including the battery area, with the IPA stuff or Contact Cleaner, make sure that everything is clean and dry before reassembling it all with new batteries. This repair worked wonderfully on mine, it was like having a brand new Fob, no more dancing around the car like a loony and no more arcane incantations. BUT. ( Why is there always a BUT ? ) This repair worked perfectly for five months and then total failure, not one button worked. Don’t panic, a few minutes work repeating the above procedure followed by a few hours waiting for paint to dry and all is good again. So, far from a real solution or ideal but at least some sort of a cure and if you have to repeat it every few months it’s no big deal. If you’ve read this far through these ramblings you probably have an interest in this problem, if so I’d be happy to hear your thoughts and ideas, Thanks, Nige.

Sorry yes it was...

Hi all I have a 2011 2.2d xf, the car is great when cold accelerates great no issues, on long motorway runs again no issues, but when I drive around town about 7-10 miles stop start I get some series acceleration issues, the car is very unpredictable sometimes it pulls away slowly and picks up gradually, other times it pulls away lime a snail and very slowly picks up, I have no error codes or fault lights, I have changed the MAF sensor, had the EGR valve programmed out of the ECU and changed all filters and can't find the issue, when the problem occurs if I put my foot to the floor it revs to about 3000 rpm but doesn't pick up and the gears are snatchy, I have had the transmission serviced and checked and that if fine any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just joined after buying myself a Jaguar XF...just need the alloys refurbished now. Cheers Scott.

Hi, my name is Mack , new to the group ...I bought 1 year ago ,this is my first Jaaaaaag.. and I love it (top photo) ...3.0 V6 ...the second photo is an AI rendering I made to see what bigger bronzed wheels would look like with the British Racing Green , I want to buy some new wheels for mine something like this .. wil be putting spacers on to bring the wheels out a little more inline with the body .... so 17 or 18" ...I dont really want to put low profile tyres on it ...anybody done anything like this before ...any problems with driving or steering ,rubbing tyres and such ....any advice welcome .. Thanks in advance ,Mack

Hi Tony, do you know the age and history of your battery. The ability of the battery to start the car is no longer the definitive indicator of a good battery as the sensitive electronics of a modern car, especially a Jaguar must have a stable voltage supply at all times. If you don't know the battery history, or if you do know that the battery is more than 5 years old, then the first part of the fault finding MUST be to change the battery. As your car is a 2016 model, it could well still have the original battery installed - probably has a Jaguar sticker on it. Ensure any replacement battery is of the correct rating and dimensions as it must fit into the battery tray and be secured - an MoT failure for an unsecured battery. Go to the Kwik Fit website and locate the "Battery" tab, enter your registration number and post code and then click search. The site does all of the hard work for you and once you have found the correct battery, you can run a separate search to find it at the best price - don't need to purchase it from Kwik Fit of course. A lot of folks suggest the Battery Mega Store as offering good prices, but remember you need to be able to fit it, or pay around £30 for a local garage to install the battery you purchase. Once you have confirmed the battery history and / or change, come back and let us know for further advice. N6 JMX

Hi Carl, 50 miles at over 50 MPH and it should clean up - all else being equal. Welcome to the wonderful world of Jaguar motoring. Great folks on here to assist when things are not quite right! N6 JMX

Hi I'm new to the club and the xf is the first jaguar I've owned I'm open to any help and advice thanks

This could still be a poor battery and / or a bad set of earth connections. The ability to start the car is no longer the best test that your battery is fine. The electronics on your car are extremely sensitive to low voltage, which generally will not bother the starter motor until much later. Low voltage causes the electronic control modules to become unable to be seen by the CANBUS. N6 JMX

Hi Chris, good to know. For the vehicles you are looking out for, you need the more specialist outlets such as Ken Jenkins, trading as UK Jag. Ken has a steady supply of these type of machines and is currently advertising a 1959 XK 150S, 3.8 Roadster (not a DHC). He is advertising a 1954 XK120 DHC 3.4. the website is www.ukjag.co.uk There is an XK150 DHC SE 1959 advertised in the JE magazine - in the Norfolk area. N6 JMX

Hi Alan, welcome to the wonderful world of Modern XK motoring. Hope you have many happy miles in yours. N6 JMX

Hi Geoff, the ability of the battery to start the engine is not a good indicator of the battery condition these days. Even a 2005 car has a lot of electronics incorporated and these are very voltage sensitive. So, even though the car can be started by the existing battery, I would suggest that you get it properly checked by an Auto Electrician - if you don't have the tools and knowledge to do it yourself. Incidentally, perceived wisdom is to consider a car battery, lead acid variety, a consumable item and change when it gets to around 5-years old. Do you know the age of your battery? A series of voltage checks will be required at various stages of the operation to truly assess the battery condition. I am sure someone will be along shortly to advise exactly what the various readings should be, but as a starter: 1. With the engine running, i.e. charging from the alternator, the voltage should be in the region of 14.6V 2. After a long run and stopping the engine, the voltage should be in the region of 13.6V if checked immediately on stopping the engine 3. If placed on a charger / conditioner, then fully charged should give a reading of around 12.8V with the reading taken at least 3 - 4 hours after disconnecting the charger, i.e. given the chance to settle 4. If the reading 3 - 4 hours after disconnecting from the charger were to be 12.5V, then the battery is potentially only at 50% charge Please note that batteries are individual, subject to varying duty cycles and at this time of the year, winter and cold, they will not be at their best condition in any event. N6 JMX

So basically the issue is that it is too high of a risk and many dealers don't even want to do it anymore. The guy that is GURU at this told me that he just changes the IMC with latest SW as it costs less and less risk is involved. So my suggestion is to be on a hunt for a scrapyard IMC and change it, programm it via SDD if it is 2016-2017 model or pathfinder if it is a later model.

Excellent, thorough job 👍

Don’t know the part number however, you should be looking for the 19 inch space saver. Google may be your friend here.😎