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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .2 points
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I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG2 points
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If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.2 points
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did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly2 points
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Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX2 points
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Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar2 points
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Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁2 points
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Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.2 points
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For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX2 points
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Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.2 points
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There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX2 points
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Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX2 points
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Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.2 points
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Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX2 points
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I have great news S type jaguar 3.0 2001 Y554BPA coolant tank, fitted today no longer waiting for part jaguar has got this coolant tank in stock.2 points
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@Ivan forster do you have pictures of some of these parts? We need to verify you own these parts before allowing you to sell these here.1 point
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Rare chance to get a rare car. 1983 was the III series, the last of the Vanden Plas. Only 140 were made and this is thought to be one of only 2 left. Near full service history, last full one in October 2024. Immaculate walnut wood interior with gold banding. Beautiful cream leather with bespoke piping to match claret car colour. Kent alloys plus spare. Working electric windows and sun roof, original tool kit and first aid kit the list goes on. 12 page valuation of £18,000. Number plate valued at £1,000, cars nickname Lucifer. Selling well below value due to diagnosis and getting affairs in order. offers around £9,000. Please1 point
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Welcome aboard Jim, and I hope you have many happy miles in your XKR Convertible - Zero. As you will note if you have already been trawling in this section of the Forum, there is a lot of knowledge and a willingness to share this with fellow Enthusiasts. If you have already suffered from the dreaded tin worm on your unfortunate XJ, then I am assuming that you had the underside of Zero fully checked out ahead of purchase. The main body may be aluminium, but that doesn't guarantee no corrosion, just a different version, but the underside has steel subframes that can get into a really poor state very quickly. This is especially the case if the car has been used year round and seen salted roads or, strangely enough, if the car has spent some of its life living by the seaside. Let's see a few photos when you can. N6 JMX1 point
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completetly different cars...EV vs diesel - personally would go for xf 3.0d...much more refined than 2.0. depending what year make we talking about in terms of 2.0 ingenium diesel. after 2019 there were design changes to it and they are more reliable than in 2016-2018 models1 point
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Hopefully this will help you out; airbag code 16 indicates a passenger seat weight sensor CAN fault. This means there's a communication issue with the sensor that detects if someone is sitting in the passenger seat. The CAN (Controller Area Network) is a communication bus that various modules in the car use to talk to each other, and the fault code suggests a problem with the signal from the passenger seat weight sensor being transmitted over the CAN. Here's a more detailed explanation: Passenger Seat Weight Sensor: This sensor is located under the passenger seat cushion and is designed to detect the weight of a person sitting there. CAN Fault: The CAN bus is a communication network that allows different modules in the car to exchange data. If the passenger seat weight sensor is not communicating properly with the other modules (like the airbag control module) via the CAN, it will trigger code 16. Possible Causes: Faulty weight sensor under the seat. Wiring or connection issues in the passenger seat weight sensor circuit. A problem with the CAN bus itself (less likely). Faulty passenger airbag module.1 point
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Priceless - I’m in my local and there’s a Landrover owner next to me telling his mate that his car parking aid uses Sattelite to give him the Birds Eye view that you see from the synchronised cameras 😂 He actually thinks a Sattelite camera is following him around. I nearly spat out my Guinness 😂1 point
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What does everyone think? I personally am really hoping that I don`t lose my love for Jaguar, but I do fear this may spark the end of our relationship!! https://www.msn.com/en-gb/cars/news/jaguar-unveils-new-logo-and-look-as-it-prepares-for-an-electric-future/ar-AA1ulqoV?ocid=msedgntp&pc=DCTS&cvid=040710aebc7f47f48508ce7c50aa3f1f&ei=111 point
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Hi Rob, it may be best to show your location as "Non UK" - that way there is no confusion on the Forum as to regards where you are located. I initially thought it a touch strange when you posted about being "across the water" but had Bedfordshire as your location - appreciate we Scots sometimes consider "England" to be "across the water". N6 JMX1 point
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Hi there. I am new to this forum and am in a bit of a pinch (very lucky to say that given the situation). I have had the fortunate of inheriting a Type 1, 3.8 litre straight 6 E-type Jaguar. Sadly however, I am not in the position to be able to restore this beautiful car to its former glory. After much thought and with a heavy heart, I have decided that it would be best that the car be taken on by someone who can give it the care and attention it deserves. If anyone would be interested in purchasing the car, or knows anyone that would I would be grateful to discuss. I have all relevant paperwork/log books which come with the car, as well as have a few replacement parts should they be useful. I am happy to answer any questions to the best of my knowledge.1 point
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I have to admit, it was quite far gone I think most sane people would’ve called it a day but sometimes a car is valued more sentimentally than financially. Mechanically the S Types seem quite robust so I think providing I can keep up with the rust it will live on for a few more years. I’m currently torn between getting an X Type or another S Type to replace my main car with, perhaps a later model than the one I have with a few more toys.1 point
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Hi If the front end feels floaty, thats usually the shock absorbers, would replace both if it were mine cheers Joe1 point
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Got everything sorted thanks to JustBadly pointing me at the plastic bits needed to make the headlights work....thanks to all who joined the thread. Kevin.1 point
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Have owned two of these X-Types and sort of understand. They were a bit of a compromise but their poor reviews at the time were genuinely unfounded. Yes, it comes from a time when Ford owned Jaguar and were desperately trying to make the company profitable. So does everyone's much hated S-Type where faster or rarer versions are getting some love back Yes, the floopan, engine and switchgear was done by ford but please remember it still used original Jag interiors and trim Am selling or scrapping mine because it's an old, poorly maintained one but does have a a few points going for it. Good, old Frod Dynatic Engine and the CD player works, but only on Tuesdays. PM me fore it has to go to the great Jag Dealer in the Sky I also need the space as my little Daimler 250 might be coming back soon Can honestly say I love them. Not a great idea from Jaguar but served as my intro to the world of. As the competitor to the BMW 3 series it failed, as a cheap old wreck that nobody loves it still makes sense if you can afford the repair bills on an old car1 point
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Hi Kevin, frustrating isn't it. Have you tried suppliers who work with the international market - like SNG Barrett, they have warehouse facilities in Europe. Alternatively, try further afield for LH drive vehicles, e.g. USA. In some instances, getting the correct part number from the Jaguar Classic website is a good starting point because you can then put that into your search engine and international hits can be found. N6 JMX1 point
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Before I brought my 5 Lt XK I looked at many and watch so many hours of U tube it all started to go blurry but the one thing most reviewers commented on was how a std system was so quiet with out pulling fuse 19 or swapping the rear pipe . But during my test drive it didn't sound to muffled but the weird thing was I didn't notice the quad pipes at the rear till I'd looked at a few more, so on a return viewing a quick look under the rear revealed a lack of oil drum size silencer which some might see as a bad thing I just saw a £800 saving on replacing it anyway. As I enter my mid to late 50s my feeble attempt to grow up and be more age appropriate seems to be a dismal failure. Pete.1 point
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Hi to all my fellow Jag owners. My journey to Jag ownership has not gone as I planned and started last year when I decided to act my age and sell my 350z because it wasn't getting used enough to warrant it and wanted to go old school with something really basic like an Austin 8 or similar. Then the plan was to end nearly 30 years of Range rover ownership by swapping my L320 sport for a F pace. This is where it all went off on a tangent. While watching Bangers n cash the wife took fancy to an E type which was out of budget but got me thinking you see where this is heading. XK8's are now the focus but finding a rust free example for the budget wasn't happening so up the budget till we hitting X150 territory and after weeks of searching and hundreds of miles I became the owner of a 2009 5 litre XK. To say I'm happy is an understatement what an awesome car just can't wait for the weather to improve so I can get some serious miles in it but what about the plan of an F pace well the rangee has a buyer lined up and the F pace should be here next week but I can't help the feeling I might have bit to much off but only time will tell. Pete.1 point
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Hi Liam, there is a company in Byfleet, Surrey, called Cartronics who do lots of upgrade kit for modern cars, including Apple CarPlay for various Jaguars. The website link is below, or you could simply put "Cartronics" into your search engine if you don't like clicking on links. I had some discussions with them in 2024, they know what they are doing, but it is not a cheap modification. Jaguar Media & Sound Upgrades N6 JMX1 point
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compared to the traditional Jaguar logo, they look very amateur a bit like a kids drawing contest work1 point
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Hi Trevor, I believe the production ceased on the 31st of October 2024, for all / any new vehicles in the UK as the F-Pace was axed from the line-up, following the demise of the XE, the XF and the F-Type earlier in the summer. The E-Pace and the I-Pace, previously assembled at Magna Steyr in Austria, have also ceased being built for the UK market - although still being produced for other global markets for the time being. The company claims that they did not make any money on these deleted models, so it's not an issue for them. Must be some business model that can support no sales for at least the next 14 months - new "all electric" production sales begin in 2026. Hopefully we are not about to enter the arena of enjoying our classic cars where the manufacturer has gone from the world of vehicle production, like Triumph, Austin, Rover, etc. Suppose we will now just have to imagine (or reimagine) what it's like to enter a showroom and pour over a new Jaguar! N6 JMX1 point
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Thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts. I've heard the engine is pretty robust, and indeed the car has been serviced generally in line with the 10,000 miles recommend, just not to JLR's schedule. It is a particularly nice late example, with low mileage and one owner. The dealer so far is accommodating, and at my request is trying to see if the previous owner would be willing to give me a call. I have driven it, but need a longer test drive if the truth be told. It's passed all my HP/ Car Vertical checks and I'm also going to have it inspected by a local Jaguar specialist. If all that checks out, then I'll pull the trigger. However, despite best efforts, the rest really is in the hand of the gods! I'm encouraged to hear your higher mileage XF is providing effortless, reliable and relaxing motoring. Fingers crossed, I'm heading the same way! Thanks again.1 point
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Hi John, a good battery is essential to the electronic well-being of these cars, so a changing of the battery for what may turn out to be spurious indications on the dash is a good first step, especially when you are unsure of the age of the battery. The Yuasa is a great battery, just be sure to get the version that fits and suits your car. By that I mean ensure the dimensions are correct to fit in the battery tray / box, and that the power (Ah) is of the correct rating. Once you have the new battery in place, you may find the fault has cleared, but if not, then reading any stored codes should be the next step. A friendly local workshop with the correct tools should be able to help. This may through light on the follow-up steps, perhaps a faulty ABS sensor, but get any codes before changing other parts. N6 JMX1 point
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Hi Stephen, try looking up DCR AutoParts, they are very good on the X-100 models and getting into the X-150 models as well. https://www.dcrautoparts.com/ The owner, Dave Roche, is always good for advice on those hard to find parts. N6 JMX1 point
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Thanks Geoff, That's what I figured also I won't have the hassle of having to book it in to 2 different garages & if the fault returns who do you go to! Rather bizarrely I went out in the car yesterday & the fault message on the dash cleared itself along with the ABS light, when I got home I switched the engine off, left it for a while re started it & the message returned so have still decided to have the work done just to be on the safe side1 point