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I would agree with your logic, i'm not wildly familiar with the XF but would imagine it's electrical architecture to be similar to the S Type. There is a general module that's in the boot on the S Type (which could be a clue) and i'm not sure what other modules might be involved. I'd suggest checking in the boot, see if you can find any signs of water ingress/dampness, also check your sunroof drain holes/hoses in cae one or both is leaking water into the boot and causing your problem. As for hearing ultrasonic sensors, the clue is in the name - ultrasonic. They tend to operate in the 22-40KHz range, most humans can only hear up to ~18kHz so if someone says they can hear it, check them for bat DNA or assume they're mistaken or very lucky. Good luck with it, let us know how you get on.1 point
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Hi , The supplier is an acquaintance of mine who has an extensive history with Jaguar Land rover, he is UK based. He sells these touch screens. I will contact him and ask him if he is OK with me passing his contact details on this forum. I do not think he will object but as a matter of courtesy I think it's only correct.1 point
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I would look into having them remanufactured by a hydraulic fitters company. If you sent the eBay lot to them they could work them over. Since you now have a spare set you should look into it.1 point
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Haha I think I lost mine too! I think anything over £20,000 I would be open to discuss1 point
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OK, hopefully I am not breaking any rules here (I know the UK government doesn't allow free speech 🙂 ) I am doing various jobs on my newly acquired S Type R and post on my channel JAGVETTE1 please check it out and if you like it please subscribe I do it for fun not profit, I make mistakes and I show them, I am a mechanic with more years of experience than I care to remember, BUT I know you are NEVER too old to learn. Thanks in advance Gary1 point
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Very nice! Now where did i put that winning lottery ticket? 😄 Joking aside, what is your idea of a "reasonable offer" as that is very much open ton interpretation?1 point
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Went for a long drive, steering much heavier in Dynamic mode at speed, checked all other suggestions, all OK, wife drove back, and she's happy, happy life, hope this helps.1 point
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First thing to do is read the codes. If the battery is indeed not charging then that will upset the engine manangement and many other things. It could be there's a short to earth in the warning light circuit which will cause this. There could be a number of other reasons for it as well, i'd suggest searching for a local Jag independent specialist and/or a good autoelectrician.1 point
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Hi As already said above, the adaptation reset can be done with Jaguar ids/sdd software or with icarsoft LR V2 or V3 Jaguar dealer wont do these any more will have to be a Jaguar indy cheers Joe1 point
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Hi I would only use ZF lifeguard 6, because its never a good idea mixing oils. would only buy genuine ZF aswell, aftermarket filters allways seem to leak. Genuine kit comes with oil, filter, new pins with larger heads and new mecha sleeve, which were prone to leaking on the electric connector. when you change the oil, only about 6 litres drains out of the box, about 4 to 5 litres stays in the torque converter. never known any body have any issues with using zf lifeguard 6, but a lot of people who use a different brand seem to get problems also, when changing the oil, ideally you should clear the gearbox adaptations, so the gearbox learns how to shift again and you get smoother shift, sometimes putting fresh, slightly thicker oil in, can make the gear changes quite harsh, also reseting the adaptations can only be done with software like Jaguar ids/sdd and some icarsofts, disconnecting the battery does nothing. Adaptation reset is allways done if the service is done at jaguar. also if your getting harsh shifts, if the gearbox has never been updated, software update can cure this, last update was 2009, my car was a 2004 and had its original 2004 software, updating mine cured the surging/hunting when it was cold at around 30 to 40 mph. cheers Joe1 point
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HI Change the oil, thats got the ford gearbox and uses Standard ATF oil so cheap and worth changing, usually fixes a lots of problems, especially if the oil is low cheers Joe1 point
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Thanks Dave - you're a star! JLR (Barrets Ashford) wanted £192 to supply a key. I then drove to Timpsons and they did the whole thing, in Tesco's car park, in 20 minutes, for £89. Job done. Thanks again. Martin1 point
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I run my BMW Z3 on Super-Unleaded only, but as you are saying PDS it's becoming more difficult nowadays to find stations with an E5 pump. I recently spoke to a forecourt attendant and he said they were not stocking it until the new pumps are installed - quite why it needs new pumps to dispense it, or whether it is accelerated decay of the rubber, etc in the current E5 pumps? Either way, the benefits far outweight the extra cost of the E5 in my opinion. Between 1500 and 2500 rpm the engine was always flat on acceleration....switched to E5 and its where it should be now - smooth as silk all through the rev ranges. Not only the driveability of the car has transformed but the economy is much better too. I don't see going back to E10 has any benefit for older cars. However, running E5 in my motorbikes seems to have very little noticable benefit that I can determine (as yet).1 point
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Some forecourts are now restricting the use E5 so E10 is only available when filling up. I have had a number of Classic cars over the years and whenever I put E10 in I always dossed the tank with REDEX Petrol System Cleaner which protects against corrosion from E10 fuel and never had a problem. Not used E10 in the XKR yet but if I do I will put in some REDEX.1 point
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Hi, my name is David, first time Jaguar owner. Fell in to it as I was looking for a 7 seater Citroen C4 Grand Picasso for days out with the grandchildren. However, when my current car came up, I couldn’t leave it. It’s a 3litre V6 twin turbo XFS on a 2010 plate with 77,000 on the clock. Can’t believe thats it’s mine, when I go out each morning. Last big executive car was a Vauxhall Omega Elite Estate 3lt V6 Auto on an 89 plate. Kept for several years. Bever thought I would have anything again so comfy.1 point
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That's good enough for me, as it just looks good, My partner is having her nails done on Sat morning so I will be going with her to get the colours of my choice. I do not know why Green and Orange are the colours on an XKR, do you or anyone else know? I am a bit patriotic and will be going for Red and Blue, but I am told you can buy nail varnish in these colours. I will post a shot Spyderromeo1 point
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Found this, hope it helps; To remove the 2007 Jaguar S-Type front grille, you need to unlatch the hood, then locate and remove two nuts/bolts at the top rear of the grille assembly. After removing the fasteners, you must unclip the plastic tabs that project from the rear of the grille frame by gently easing them outwards. With the nuts, bolts, and tabs disengaged, the entire grille can be removed from the car1 point
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Hello all, 1st time jag owner here. I collected my 2014 xfs 3.0 sportbrake portfolio just a few weeks ago, it has been back to the garage already as it turns out the bcm was corrupt and it has the dreaded failed door lock actuator too 🤣 all covered on warranty thankfully! Apart from that i am absolutely loving the car! Anyway thought i would introduce myself, im Tommy, also known as the ADHD Fishkeeper (yes diagnosed and not one of them that claims they are but never seen a professional) on tiktok. Im 33 and from the yorkshire area, im looking forward to learning as much as possible from the forums and even meeting some of you at any of the jaguar events.1 point
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You could also look at SNG Barrett's website as they hold large stocks of parts for these cars. SNG Barratt UK | Keeping your Jaguar on the road N6 JMX1 point
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Try mark at jagrar he currently has a few s types he is breaking so may have a good condition seal1 point
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I'd have a look online in your home area (it says non-UK so no idea where in the world you are) and find a Dexron VI compatible fluid and use that, especially if you plan on periodic part-changes or full changes to maintain it. A quick search revealed that Pentosil #1 is a "life-time fluid" so is likely to be more expensive and won't necessarily last the life of your box. I'd prefer to do a part-change once a year or so to maintain the fluid than use a "lifetime fluid" that maybe breaks down and kills my gearbox. Each to their own though.......1 point
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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .1 point
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The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.1 point
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Hi, i drive as my second everyday car my 2004 XKR which i have owned since 2021 ,great car . i have this weekend purchased a totally original 1950 3.5 Mark 4 reg no WAS 423 she been laid up for some 20 years , few issues clutch slipping and over heating but apart from that runs smoothly history back to 1984 shows present milage of just over 21,000. the car appears very solid with no filler or rust apart from surface pattination to the paint work ,which i shall keep intact i'm trying to find some earlier history i've checked the register but nothing showing . engine no T9689 chassis no 623429. any one know anything about this car . David mob 078819009181 point
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Hey there all. Very happy to be a part of the community finally Fatih here, 37 yo, engineer working in heavy trucks R&D in Germany. Lately I've got a beautiful 380 PS Eiger Grey 2018 Jaguar XE S. The car has 112k on the clock with black interior, 20" Propeller alloys and full Jag service history. Got her from Belgium and I brought to Germany (not a good German speaker, that's why I'm here actually ). There are some stuff I had to deal with: Done going back to stock intake from Cold Air Intake(for German MoT) Done going back from custom Ti catback to stock (again, MoT) Some TLC needed on the paintwork here and there Annoying crack on the outer lens of the cluster, dunno what to do honestly. F.ing mid section of the exhaust fell and scratched the Rear LHS door leather trim while bringing the car (had to carry inside, too big), again not sure what to do (repair or change). Pedals look rly worn, looking for a good F/P pair to renew. There's a missing small plastic part at the rear end of the roof drip molding strap, looking for some breakers for that. Car has no carpets, looking for a good one also fit for the trim. RHS hook in the boot is missing. Key fob metal part is quite banged up and spare key is missing There are also some other stuff I wanna go further with: F-type 3.23 FDR LSD retrofit Facelift Steering Wheel retrofit Facelift Rear End (imho rear-end is one of the weakest points of pre-facelifts, the front is other way around) A proper application of a smaller supercharger pulley with proper chip-tune Symposer delete SV8 Style front bumper Fantasy item: Bigger front brakes (SV8 or LR 3 Piston retrofit, hopefully bolt-on) Fantasy item: Carbon bonnet with vents Fantasy item: Custom alu/CF strut brace Any kind of suggestions or criticism is welcome. I'd love to hear your honest opinions about all above. Other cars include 2016 BMW F20 125d 2016 Renault Megane GT 2009 Alfa Romeo GT Q2 (in Istanbul) I also owned a 2010 XF 3.0D 240 PS before I moved to Germany. It was such a dream to drive, just a bit too heavy for my taste Again, hello everyone. Exciting to be here Cheers, Fatih1 point
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Hi, my name is Mack , new to the group ...I bought 1 year ago ,this is my first Jaaaaaag.. and I love it (top photo) ...3.0 V6 ...the second photo is an AI rendering I made to see what bigger bronzed wheels would look like with the British Racing Green , I want to buy some new wheels for mine something like this .. wil be putting spacers on to bring the wheels out a little more inline with the body .... so 17 or 18" ...I dont really want to put low profile tyres on it ...anybody done anything like this before ...any problems with driving or steering ,rubbing tyres and such ....any advice welcome .. Thanks in advance ,Mack1 point
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It would seem the OE part is discontinued now so you stand very little chance of getting it, even if you've found it listed. However here's a couple of alternatives : https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,2000,s-type,3.0l+v6,1363294,engine,timing+chain+&+component+kit,5756 I've been using Rock Auto for about a decade, mainly for Volvo parts as my model Volvo isn't well supported in the UK and the predecessor to my S Type was also better supported in the USA than here and never had a bad part from them yet. Even with Shipping and Handling (S&H) it's unlikely to come to 400 Euros but be careful with your local customs and excise - there is usually a shipping option that is more expensive than the others and this prepays any import duty that will be charged and delivers the item to your door without going through customs and the delay and charges that will attract. It also gets round the fluctuating exchange rate - i bought something about 6 years ago, below the threshold (on the day i bought it due to a stronger pound/£) but on the day it went through customs, the £ was weaker and it crept just over the threshold - got charged import duty and a fee for the Royal Mail to send a card telling me this and a further fee for them to collect the import duty! If memory serves it was the fuel pump for my Volvo so the car was off the road for another week while Royal Mail sent me the card, i pai and then they finally delivered. Still much cheaper than buying it in the UK to start with though!1 point
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Keep it on a battery conditioner, such as a CTEK. Starting it as you suggest will help to keep everything lubricated, but is unlikely to be enough to keep the battery fully charged, and these cars do need a fully charged battery. If you can move it a bit every time you start it you will avoid flat spotting the tyres. A few feet will do, if you can try to ensure that the wheels stop at a different point each time.1 point