JOC Admin
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Posts posted by JOC Admin
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Let us know how you get on with this and how the engine system upgrade affects performance, etc
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I wonder if it is the coolant temperature sensor which is giving a false signal which in turn would control the ignition and injection and this is causing it.
You can test it with a cheap scanner which shows the engine temperature as it warms up.
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Hi Barry....welcome to the Club
I would scrutinise the service history and see that everything has been maintained at the correct time/mileage intervals.
Otherwise, not sure of any issues that would lead to premature failure of components if it has been maintained and also driven correctly over its life so far.
Let us know how you get on with acquiring it and ensure that you get a good warranty with it if purchasing from a dealer.
Cheers, Trevor
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Hi Ashley....welcome to the Forum
It's a tough one....although the water pump is not part of the cambelt setup (which is when you would definitely replace it regardless of whether it is leaking or not) it is in the general area of the cambelt and by the time you have the front of the engine stripped back then it would be prudent to replace it at the same time.
I would negotiate a discounted price to replace the water pump whilst they are in the same area, which should save quite a bit on the labour.
A philosophy to bear in mind is that the water pump bearing has done the same amount of work that the tensioner and guide pulley bearings have done over the 100k miles.....why wouldn't you replace it?
Let us know how you get on with it
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It looks like a boot-up screen test for RGB but not sure why it would just pop up
Would definitely contact the dealer to enquire just in case it is a warning that a system is about to go faulty.....it may have stored a code for this error
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Hi Paul....welcome to the Club
I'm not surprised you're happy with the car's performance, it has a great engine under the bonnet.
Not sure about searching the specification options but as Peter has mentioned, it would be worth chatting to the dealer who should be able to print out a spec sheet for you.Good to have you onboard and enjoy the Jag!
Cheers, Trevor
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17 hours ago, Bobble Lin said:
For example，You only need 25,000 pounds to own a xel in China.
I thought there was 200% import duties when purchasing a new Jaguar in China?
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Hi Peter
Your membership is due on 2nd October 2019....you should receive a reminder invoice before the due date which you can pay directly but if you are on a PayPal recurring subscription then please do not pay the invoice as payment will be taken automatically as membership renews.
Regards, Trevor -
Here are a couple of links I found on eBay....there may be others out there that are cheaper if you cross reference the individual part numbers listed in the previous post link.
Also, you could always sell it on afterwards and get most of the money back therefore a lot cheaper option -
Found this reference to the kit...which also fits the Land Rover 3.0 litre V6
https://www.hinodetools.com/upload/instruction/AF0912 INSTRUCTION.pdf
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It shouldn't be a major issue if the sump has enough space to clear the subframe.
I would personally try nipping up the sump bolts first to see if that cures the leak.
Be sure to only nip the bolts and not tighten them too firmly....best use a torque wrench to tighten them correctly (as far as I can determine 12lbs is around 15nm which should be more than tight enough) -
Hi Ady....welcome to the Club
Long may you enjoy your Jaguar and hopefully you will be trouble-free ownership for many years.
Cheers, Trevor
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That would definitely cause the lack of air getting directly into the engine and the silicon hose would be much more beneficial and probably cheaper
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Hi Terry...welcome to the Club
Good to have you onboard
Cheers, Trevor
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Hi John....welcome to the Club
Does sound like mounts are failing again after two years....if it cured it then it is possible it is the same issue once more
Let us know how you get on with it.
Cheers . Trevor
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Hi Alan
I have moved your (this) post into the X-Type section as more members with this model of Jaguar are likely to read the post and hopefully offer some assistance.
At first thought, it does sound like driveshaft(s) but I would definitely get it checked in a garage first to eliminate the shafts or even wheel imbalance....hopefully a much cheaper result if its just that! This could occur at around 60mph and is easily rectified by rebalancing the front wheels.
Let us know how you get on with it all.
Cheers, Trevor -
Hi Brian....welcome to the club
Sounds like it could be a body control unit programme setting, I'm sure something that your local dealership could resolve quite quickly and cheaply.
Let us know what you find
Good to have you onboard
Cheers, Trevor
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Hi Kirk....welcome to the Forum
It sounds like the master cylinder is applying the pressure to the rear brakes (unless there is a compensator valve on the rear suspension).
It would be quite easy to diagnose by releasing the pressure on the rear brake lines attached to the Master Cylinder by cracking off the unions and if the brakes release then the problem is with the Master Cylinder.
Be careful to carefully crack the unions loose as brake fluid will be expelled. Also best to cover any paintwork and have a watering can handy to pour over any fluid to neutralise it.If this does not produce any results then I would look at the servo being instrumental in applying pressure to the brake pedal....but if this were the case then you would imagine the front brakes to be applied and not the rears.
Let us know how you get on with it.
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That's great news and thanks for feeding the information back, it's certainly a great help for anyone with this issue.
Happy Motoring !
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Hi Fraser
I know this S-Type as I have worked on it and it's generally a very tidy car all round.
The owner has rectified a few of the known issues and fitted many parts recently (Thermostat Housing, Brake Servo, Service, etc)It's based in Dorset and I think he'll shift a little on the price
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I would say that you possibly have a bad earth or a short circuit to ground
Either one or more of the injectors are defective (one I could understand, even maybe two but anymore than that there has to be a common fault)...or... there is a short to earth on the loom feeding the injectors. If this is the case then you would have the injectors running constantly.
If they are not running constantly then it must be a relay or ECU fault which is feeding power through the earth feed (probably a poor connection or corrosion).
Easiest place to start is the System/Main Relay
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On 8/16/2019 at 6:54 PM, chris s said:
Taken it to an Indie Jag Specialist and he has diagnosed Turbo Actuator has failed causing the car to think there is an issue with torque selector He is replacing the actuator next week which he tells me will clear the other fault. He wants £150 for the actuator fitted which seems ok to me
Can you please let us know if this has this resolved the issue(s), thanks
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Hi Andrew....welcome to the Forum
That is correct for the injectors to have a 12v permanent feed as the they are triggered by an earth feed from the ECU (more stable way of firing an injector).
I would check the system and fuel pump relays first
Good to have you onboard
Cheers, Trevor
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Hi Neil.....welcome to the Forum
Fine looking Jag
Good to have you onboard
Cheers, Trevor
Dash wobbly
in Jaguar F-Pace Club
Posted
Please let us know how you get on and what the conclusion is, thanks