Leo

I can’t help with the list, save that it will show maximum weights for braked and unbraked units, but do bear in mind that you will need to stay well within the limits with the LOADED caravan, so the unladen weight is only the starting point for the calculation.

Thanks for letting us know Graham: I think that you have made the right decision, though there will be many who think me too cautious on this one!

Your battery is getting to the age when it may well need to be replaced. Daily use doesn’t automatically mean that the battery is kept fully charged: Aircon, stop/start, HiFi, lights, wipers etc consume a lot of power, and urban use in traffic may use more battery power than it generate I agree that a 100 mile journey should normally recharge the battery if it is in good condition, provided that there are no loose connections, and the alternator is working properly.

Michael, given that your aircon and stop start both stopped working at the same time, I do wonder whether your problem may simply be the state of charge of your battery. I would check that first, before spending on a new pump.

4 x 4 is far from being the simple answer to winter snow conditions. I have had 4 x 4s for over 30 years, and also done a fair bit of off-roading. My first was one of the original Range Rovers: Two door, and plastic inside so that you could hose it out. In those days the tyres were uncompromising off road tyres, and very narrow too. I took that through snowdrifts up to 5 feet deep, and up 1 in 1 slopes covered in snow. It could cope with just about anything. I did once get into difficulty off-road in deep snow when It wouldn’t make it back up a steep incline, but I managed to get up by turning it around and going up in reverse. Better weight distribution I guess. Winding the clock forward 30 years, present day 4 x 4s have far more electronic systems to deal with snow etc, but are virtually all clad with totally unsuitable wheels and tyres for these conditions. The result is that they are nothing like as capable. Just about the only exception was the Land Rover Defender, which didn’t try to be fashionable. I had one of the last model built, and it was still as capable as my first Range Rover. I loved that car, and only sold it because I was offered silly money, which enabled a straight swap to a rather nice XF 3.0D S Portfolio, thus starting me on my Jaguar journey. Proper winter tyres on a two wheel drive are incredibly effective: We have Michelin Crossclimates on my wife’s car all year round, and they are fantastic. Obviously, the best of all would be a proper 4 x 4 with narrow wheels and off road tyres, but very few people would be prepared to compromise the looks of their posh 4 x 4 by specifying such wheels and tyres. 4 x 4 is not a solution in itself: The right wheels and tyres are just as important.

Hi Steven, and welcome to the Club. Mine has the folding mirrors, but I guess the first step is to check whether yours included that option, as Cubist says. Where abouts are you in Tyne and Wear? I am in Ryton.

With both not working, it was unlikely to be the bulbs. If you bought from a dealer take it to them to sort. May well be a switch problem.

If I were in your place I would definitely use the Shogun for the towing. There is a lot more to it than maximum permitted towing weight. A major factor is the rear overhang of the towing vehicle: The tow bar should be as close as possible to the rear axle to ensure stability, and this is a feature that you tend to find with off road vehicles. I towed caravans for over 30 years, covering most of Europe, and often visiting the Alps. Only once did I get into a "snake", where the caravan starts to sway uncontrollably. That was with a Jeep Cherokee, which had quite a long overhang and was lighter than my usual Range Rovers. I immediately replaced the Cherokee with a Nissan Patrol, which towed so well that I often forgot that I was towing!

Welcome to the Club Tom. I have had my XK for four years now, also as a weekend and pleasure car doing circa 3,000 miles a year. In that time nothing has gone wrong (touch wood at this point!), and the only expense other than servicing has been replacing one brake light bulb and one side light bulb at a total cost of less than a tenner. Mine is very low mileage: I haven’t checked recently, but around 30,000 miles. I simply love it, and intend to keep it until I can’t pull myself up to get out of it.

Hi Chris, and welcome to the club. My first thought would be low battery: You bought the car yesterday, and it may well have stood around a bit, and had some short journeys before then. These cars throw up random electrical issues if the battery is less than fully charged. I would get a CTEK battery conditioner (or similar) and charge it for at least 24 hours, to see if that helps. I trust that you will go on to enjoy both the car and the club!

Afternoon Chris, and welcome. Do post some pics of your beautiful XK8: We do love to see them! I have had my XK for about five years now, and love it as much as ever. Both the XK8 and the XK are so beautiful that you never cease to smile every time you drive (or even look at) them.

I don’t think that is excessive, and am surprised that the speed quoted is only 30mph: I have usually seen 50mph as the recommended speed. Cars with a DPF are really only suitable to those who are prepared to take them on regular long runs. I changed my XF3.0D S for an XK when I retired for that very reason, knowing that I would not be doing enough long runs.

Cheers Mike, My XK only does around 3000 to 4000 miles a year, mostly from two 40 mile return runs a week. Admittedly more than you, but still very few miles indeed! I put it on a CTEK charger most weeks, leaving it charging until I next use it. That is usually two or three days later in the summer, but can be a couple of months in the winter, because I don’t take it out on salty roads. It is easy for me, since the car is garaged, but I have to say that this procedure has worked perfectly for nearly four years now: It gives great peace of mind knowing that the battery is in peak condition every time I start the car.

Fair enough, but how long is “a few hours”, and how often do you get the chance? I would say that a continuous 12 hour charge once a week should be what you aim for: 3 or 4 hours once a week really wouldn’t be enough to maintain battery condition.

My first thought would be battery condition. Do you keep the car on a CTEK or other decent battery conditioner when it is not being used? Even a new battery will quickly discharge if the car is left for long periods without a good long run. A 20 mile return trip on a weekly basis will not maintain battery condition.

My wife’s previous car had this problem, which turned out to be caused by dampness or condensation inside a sensor, caused by a change in temperature. It occurred only in the winter, mostly in frosty weather.

It is hard to offer advice, since insurance premiums are so variable. I can only state the obvious: Shop around. I found Direct Line incredibly cheap at £165 after being refused altogether by my previous insurer: Insurance Companies are hard to understand at times!

I certainly wouldn’t be spending that kind of money, or indeed anything at all: I would happily accept that if I am putting a very heavy drain on the battery I should increase the revs above tickover.

We are on our second Leonberger. Leo's are addictive!

In early December snow we found my wife’s Citroen C4 Grand Picasso virtually undrivable, sliding even when there was barely any snow to be seen. I have never liked the idea of swapping tyres in the autumn and spring to alternate between summer and winter tyres, but something had to be done. So I did quite a bit of research and in the end went for four Michelin Crossclimate + tyres, which are all year round tyres, said to be brilliant in both winter and summer, so no need to change them. I can join with Ian in saying that the difference is absolutely astounding: Nothing seems to bother it now, and I can drive with confidence in six inches of snow. Like Ian I find myself puzzled by how slow others are going! Therein lies some risk: It drives and handles with seemingly perfect grip, and it is only when you park up and get out of the car you realise how icy it is. It tackles deep puddles without deviating, where it used to aquaplane before, and road noise is no greater. So as far as I am concerned they are great, with only two drawbacks: They are expensive, and I fear that they may not yet be made in the sizes required by the larger Jaguar wheels.

I have known this to happen if the battery is a bit low, which can easily happen to any battery at this time of year if you have been doing mostly short journeys. I keep mine topped up using a CTEK battery charger.

Yes, they are easy to find. I bought mine at Amazon. For your car the CTEK msx5 would be the usual choice. I bought the mxs10, but realised afterwards that it was something of an overkill.

It could very easily be the battery: These cars produce all sorts of random warnings if the battery condition drops even slightly. I keep mine constantly topped up with a CTEK battery conditioner, as do many other members.

Hi Graham, and welcome to the Club! My first thought would be that the battery may be low: What kind of journeys have you been doing?

Hi Tony, and welcome! These badges are available on eBay for a few quid, so the badge itself doesn’t mean a lot: It does look good though! Enjoy both the car and the Club!