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Everything posted by Coolcity

  1. A bit late I know, but I had Michelin Cross Climate all weathers on my last car (Volvo S60 T5) and I thought they were fantastic. Can't really comment on winter tyres as we don't get any snow.
  2. Mate of mine swears by MIJ Exhaust Systems in Walsall, though he doesn't have a Jag but they do remaps and seem to get decent reviews
  3. Sounds like mine could be the same thing. Hopefully i'll be able to get it back in next week.
  4. I'm sort of getting there. I've run it a few times and it's exactly the same every time - it seems as soon as the turbo fires up it goes into Restricted Performance mode. Not always at the exact same point, sometimes it will do it immediately, other times it can take a few seconds but it;'s always on hard acceleration above 3-4000 revs. Each time I've run a diagnostic using the iCarsoft LR v2 kit, and keep getting a mix of the ones I listed earlier, but one fault code comes up every time and today it was the only one to show: P22D2: Turbocharger - turbine inlet valve stuck open (Actually to be fair there is an accompanying similar code which is almost identical, P22CF: Turbocharger - turbine inlet valve control circuit open. ) So to me it sounds like exactly what it says, a valve or something on the turbo sticking open. Makes perfect sense as it's only when the turbo kicks in that it happens. I've never thought it's anything to do with the fuel filter to be honest. Of course, I could be completely wrong but I've never thought it to be anything major. I've literally just emailed the dealer to see when they can fit it in again, I've been extremely busy and just haven't had the chance until now but I couldn't really leave it any longer. I have tried adding a Wynn's Turbo Cleaner to the tank but I've probably only used around a quarter of a tank of fuel since I've added it. looking at the car's history, I think it's been used as a local runabout for the past few years. It's never done more than 5000 miles a year and only around half that for the past 4 years so it's probably clogged up. I bet the turbo has never even been fired up for the past few years.
  5. For what reason would you avoid Hastings Direct, Aubrey? I've been with them for the past year and had no problems, although I had no reason to claim for anything. I did have to pay £30 for a minor change which I thought was a bit of a rip off as I'm the one doing the work - I doubt that anything much happens to the new info once you've posted it - but then they all quote similar fees. I have just received a quote from Adrian Flux this time around, and given that protected NCB is included, it was a full £35 cheaper than Hastings Direct, who were the cheapest last time.
  6. Mine did that just after I got it. I changed the battery in the key fob and the problem went away.
  7. All the problems? Sorry, you've lost me. Apart from the fact that the tyres were swapped from Dunlop to a cheap Chinese brand - which could have been because the tyres that were on it had flat spots because it had been stood for a few months - the only other issue I've had is a broken fuel filler flap, which they replaced. I did have a vibration issue at speed but that turned out to be the cheap tyres. Also the wheel balancing was way out, apparently not done correctly. This issue is probably something sticking open or a small crack in a pipe somewhere, nothing major. With this issue they wouldn't have found it by pottering around town for 10 minutes which is probably what they did. It's a bit inconvenient but I can understand it. I've had far worse issues over the years. Despite my early reservations they have taken ownership of the issues, I just think they're a little disorganised.
  8. No chance of that happening, but it's already been agreed: "they've asked me to drive around for a couple of weeks and note when the problem occurs. I already know that, so I'm going to have to rearrange to go back and go out with them". To be clear, they've said they will sort it, from my point it's just a matter of finding the time to get back and probably be without it for a couple of days.
  9. Latest update: Problem persists, but doesn't always kick in at the same time or the same revs, but is always when/after the turbo kicks in. I travelled around half a mile today after booting it, probably the farthest I've got. Only three error codes this time, + service light came back. P22D2 - Turbocharger turbine inlet valve stuck open P22CF - Turbocharger turbine inlet valve control circuit – OPEN P00BD – Mass or volume air flow A circuit range/performance – Air flow too high Almost speaks for itself. I read a thread on a different forum from someone with near identical symptoms and he had a sticking actuator valve on the turbo (didn't say which one), though someone else simply had a faulty sensor. The dealer couldn't find the fault but from what I can gather all they did was tootle around town for a few minutes (despite me giving them a printed sheet with a ton of information, fault codes and when it occurs), so they've asked me to drive around for a couple of weeks and note when the problem occurs. I already know that, so I'm going to have to rearrange to go back and go out with them. At least the dealer said "Don't worry about the warranty if you can't get it back before it runs out", but I think they thought I only had 3 months - I have 6. I bet they don't know what a hassle it is to remove the turbo if it's necessary - I've read elsewhere that the steering rack has to be removed?
  10. No, not yet - sorry I should have explained better - I wanted to get a "before" and "after" reading, so I cleared the log and did a retest before drove it anywhere. But with the service light still on I expected to get something at least. I'll get the "after" reading on the way to the dealers in a few hours' time so I have something to show them, assuming the fault codes show up again of course.
  11. This gets even more mysterious - I did that, and now I'm not getting any fault codes at all. I did find this site the other day though, which gives a run down on fault codes and possible causes. Looks quite useful. https://www.engine-codes.com/
  12. That's a good point, I've only got the code reader today and haven't had chance to have a proper look at it, so I'm not totally relying on those results yet. I think the brake thing is probably just a glitch, faulty sensor at worst but I'll reset that and see how it goes. I took it back to the original dealer I got it from this morning, but some prat had forgotten to book it in so it's going back on Friday. 70 mile round trip - no problems at all until I held back for a clear stretch of road then floored it, and sure enough the "Restricted" light came on again within a couple of seconds, with the accompanying performance hit, so it's definitely turbo related. Seems to happen from 3000 revs upwards. Driving "normally" I can drive it around all day without any problems.
  13. Definitely not the battery, readings and performance of the battery are fine and well within parameters. Most of that list appear to be something to do with pressure or vacuum, so probably linked. Besides, a worn or defective battery doesn't appear (to me) to be something that would cause a restricted performance issue on hard acceleration. Sounds to me more like what it says, a valve or port stuck open.
  14. OK, so I've got the iCarsoft LR v2.0 diag tool and done a quick check, though this is only at idle, not on the move. assuming I'm using it correctly it came back with 9 codes. I was advised to use the 2010-11 setting as it's an 09 plate but a 2010 Model Year. P244B – DPF differential pressure sensor – circuit high P2458 – DPF regeneration duration P00BD – Mass or volume air flow A circuit range/performance – Air flow too high P1247 – Turbocharger boost pressure Low P2263 – Turbocharger boost system performance P0235 – Manifold absolute pressure sensor circuit P22D2 – Turbocharger turbine inlet valve stuck open P22CF – Turbocharger turbine inlet valve control circuit – OPEN P244B – DPF differential pressure sensor – circuit high P2458 – DPF regeneration duration *P1571 – Brake switch malfunction./Brake switch. So from that I assume there's a stuck or failed valve on the turbo? * The last one is what I assume is causing the amber PARK BRAKE FAULT to come on. This is a bit odd as the last time,. it came on as I pulled up (but before putting the parking brake on). this time it came on as I pulled away. Car drives normally, brakes don't feel as though they're dragging or binding until I'm almost at a halt, when they seem to grab a little, so I'm not sure if that's connected in some way or not.
  15. Agreed. That said, I just got a quote from an independent as my "Service Required" light has just come on, and they quoted £350 for a full service and £260 for an oil service. I expected less. I'm not even sure what it needs or when, mine's an '09 XF 3.0d, and seems to have been done annually rather than by mileage as it's only done 54,000 miles. Last three services are marked as follows: 51950 miles - 12/06/2021 - type of service not shown. 50950 miles – 25/02/2020 – OIL SERVICE Level 1. 47671 miles – 20/02/2019 – OIL SERVICE Level 1. 44230 miles - 26/02/2018 – SERVICE “A" (which I'm assuming was a "full" service) - that was 2 years but only 6000 miles after the previous full service. I'm taking the most recent one with a pinch of salt as that was done by the sales garage, and as it had just had new discs and pads all round, and an oil service just 1000 miles earlier they probably didn't do much else, but I'm not sure when it's due. The booklet says 80.000 but it's probably better to stick to the annual schedule as that's a long way off.
  16. Thanks Peter. When I got it the DPF needed clearing, and I did a 60 mile motorway trip a couple of times and still couldn't clear it. I bought a 3-pack of STP DPF cleaner fuel additive, did another 40 mile trip and that clears it and its been fine since. On that basis it might be worth adding a can of EGR cleaner, can't do it any harm to try. That said, the fault warning light seems to kick in under hard acceleration, so I would be surprised if it was anything to do with the EGR system as I thought they only kicked in under low loads? It could be though as its only done 53k but I get the Morston a lot of it must have been short town journeys. Anyway it's going in to the dealer I bought it from in the morning so I assume they'll put a fault code reader in it and take it from there. Will update when I have more details.
  17. I wondered about the fuel filter as it tends to pop up regularly in threads. Anyhow, I'm still waiting for the code reader to arrive (by the way, where's the plug point for it?), so I've contacted the dealer I got it from as it's still under warranty anyway, and they're going to take a look at it on Monday. For the last 200 miles or so the warning hasn't come on, I've done motorway speeds but avoided "flooring" it. I did get another warning light last night, Park Brake warning came on as I pulled up after a short 8 mile motorway trip, but cleared itself when I restarted it on the return trip and didn't come in again when I got home, so it might have just been a glitch. The brakes do grab ever so slightly at the last second as I brake to a halt though, discs and pads were new all round when I bought it 3 months ago so I put it down to that, but they should surely have run in by now?
  18. Name – Sky Internet APN – mobile.sky MMS Proxy – MMS Port – 9028 APN Type – Choose internet+mms then select enter
  19. I wouldn't read to much into that, a good diesel engine will usually run for hundreds of thousands of miles if looked after. It's the service history that's important.
  20. Yep, mine's the 3.0d 240bhp
  21. Thanks, that's good information and explains why it appears to be designed to fully item but doesn't. At least its not like the Ford electric ones. As I opened my boot in the supermarket car park the other day, a woman who had parked next to me was looking very smug as she opened hers by waiving her foot underneath the car. I was in my car and driving away while she was still waiting for her tailgate to fully open. 😂
  22. Just found this as I encountered the amber Park Brake Fault light tonight, oddly this came on as I was parking up after a short 8 mile motorway journey. I turned the car off then on again after 10 seconds and the fault cleared. Drove the car home an hour later and it was fine. The only issue I've had with the brakes is they grab slightly as the car comes to a stop when braking, which I initially put down to running them in (full disc and pad change all round was done when I got the car 3 months ago), but I've done over 1500 miles since so they should be run in now. It's this anything to worry about?
  23. It isn't, it's only when I accelerate hard but I still need to know what it is and sort it before it turns into something worse. I'm no expert but in your case I would agree with what Big John said, it certainly doesn't sound as though the turbo had gone completely (you'd know if it had, I would have thought) and it sounds more like a minor part failure to me. I understand your point, hence the reason you were offered the 50% deal. The problem manufacturers have is if they cover one part after a relatively short period of time they would, in theory, be expected to do the same with every part for every customer. Ultimately, everything we buy would be much more expensive as a result to cover these failures. I don't think there's any right answer that fits all scenarios.
  24. Thanks, that's interesting. I'll get that checked too but I'm going to wait until I get the diagnostic gadget, hopefully early next week. I ran it again today, accelerated quickly right up to over 90 and ran it for a few minutes, no problem at all. Then on the way back I accelerated more aggressively and got the warning at around 4300 revs, higher and faster than when it's kicked in before. Even in RP mode it will still run up to 80, and probably on but it's obvious there's a power drop. Definitely feels like a vacuum leak or something related.
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