Wrinkly

1 hour ago, HENRY RENN said:

HI,  I HAVE THE SAME FAULT , WHAT WAS THE OUTCOME? THANKS

I suspect the likely hood of you getting a reply to this is very low, as the original post was 23.04.2018., that being four years ago.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

On 6/3/2022 at 10:39 AM, Singapore Stag said:

Thanks for the welcome, I am also a member of the Stag Owners Club since 2009.

I look forward to making friends on this forum.

Are there any similarities in keeping the Stag running correctly as compared to the Jaguar?

Regards, John

2 hours ago, Big John said:

Hi Michael

When the car is locked battery draw should be a few milliamps. Occasionalyl you may get an error in one or more of the modules so that the computers fail to go to sleep properly and continue to draw current. As soon as you unlock the car all of the computer modules wake-up and the car is then drawing maybe 20 Amps. This is why you will quickly get a warning if you sit in the car listening to the radio without the engine running. Personally I would want to be using it more than once a week and that use would need to be a good hour run. Otherwise it probabaly would benefit from a trickle charger such as a CTek when left parked.

Good luck

John

There are some good videos on You Tube explaining how to identify / trace Parasitic electrical losses on the car.

Good Luck and Best Wishes , John

Roast

Microphone  ????????????????????????

1 hour ago, RJMcGrory said:

Hi, thank you for the replies,

When I've driven the car a good while 40mins or so and I switch the engine off, it reads around 12.8 or 12.9

The next day is when it drops to around 12.4 and after a few days of no use, 3 days or so is when it shows around 12.1 or 11.9

 

Guess I will need one of those chargers to maintain the battery, 

 

Kind regards,

Ross

Your best bet is a CTEK MS 7  or MS 10. I use one for my S-type (which are renown for battery discharge. I use mine on the car at least once a month for 24 hours and it keeps the battery in A1 condition.  They also have a RECON setting which takes care of sulphating and can also be used to start low batteries. Well worth the investment. Are used by many members on this Forum.

Best Wishes and Regards John

2 hours ago, typhoon1944 said:

Thanks for all the replies.  With both vehicles being serviced recently whichever one I go for I don't really want to be paying for another service.  Would anyone have a rough idea how much it would cost just to get the cambelt replaced?

Nick,

Cost is going to depend exactly what you have done and where you have it done. I.E. Jaguar Main Dealer, Independent Jaguar Specialist, Local Garage.

My advice would be to ring a number of locations and ask for a quotation.

Cheers, John

I thoroughly support "No Evidence then change it". Could be very expensive otherwise. 

Welcome to the club, Best Wishes , John

Welcome to the club. Photos are very good, thank you.

Regards, John

Meant

1 hour ago, typhoon1944 said:

Good afternoon all,

Still not bought my XF yet.  Lost out on a couple due to dithering but it's a big decision so I'm not taking it lightly.  I think I still have the chance of the 62 plate Portfolio V6 D with around 96000 miles in Edinburgh or a 10 plate Prem Lux with 120000 miles but around half the price in Oban.  The owner of the 62 plate has said the ancillary belts were changed at the last service but the cambelt will need done at 104000.  Speaking to my local dealer this is incorporated into a major service at a cost of around £1300, however a Google search suggests it doesn't need to be changed until 144000 miles which, as I only do around 10000 miles a year, would at least delay the prospect of a major outlay for a while longer.  The owner of the 10 plate has advised that the garage she bought the car from told her they changed the cambelt before she took ownership but there's nothing in her records to prove this and, even if I got the VIN, it's too old to appear on Jaguar's OSH website.  However, she has said that she may consider getting the belt changed anyway if she had a guaranteed sale.  The front passenger window is also sticking but it's not clear whether it needs a new regulator or if carrying out the reset procedure would fix it. 

Could someone clarify when exactly I would need to start considering changing the cambelt? 

As a side note, there is also a 3.0 V6 petrol available but I don't think it's a contender as the fuel consumption is higher than the diesel variant and it's slower, not that that should be an issue.  However, a further Google search along the lines of "Jaguar XF 3.0 V6 petrol or diesel  throws up loads of forums saying the petrol is the one to go for as the servicing costs are cheaper, it's a more reliable engine and it is chain driven rather than belt, not to mention the stories of owners being told by dealerships that they wouldn't touch a high mileage XF, especially those over 100000 miles, with a barge pole.

As usual, any advise would be greatly appreciated.

 

Nick

I believe that the decision you have to make is entirely a personal preference / decision. Taking your time to decide is always a double edged sword. You can miss the best you have seen in the interest of finding something better. I personally would not buy a high mileage Jaguar, the likes of what you are quoting of around or approaching 100K miles.  I also prefer petrol engines as although they might be a bit heavier on fuel, I do not believe that in the long run a diesel is any cheaper to run in the long run when you take into account servicing costs etc, etc. The fact of cam chain instead of a belt also gives me more comfort.

It does though boil down to "each to their own and personal choice." There are members here that will disagree on my point of view / preference and will thoroughly recommend a diesel engine. As I said, "each to their own"

Best of luck with finding the right car for you. 

Regards, John 

22 minutes ago, mrmike said:

Thanks for the reply. I had a look at the fluid which is quite dark, not a good sign! I have a little gadget for checking soil dampness, after careful cleaning I tried it but it did not register anything. I tried a DVM on 20 MOhm and got a reading between 1.5 and 2,5 MOhm so I reckon there is definitely water in it. Checking on used engine oil produced no reading >20 MOhm ! Tap water (From local Desal plant) provided readings between 1 and 6 MOhm.

Dot 4 is on the shopping list.

BRs and fingers crossed ,

Mike

Mike

Sounds like a good move to me.

All the best with doing the job.

Regards, John

Minded   

Living 

Rag   

1 hour ago, sb53 said:

my jag XF has 245/40Z R19 98Y tyres on it. The car has the tyre glue and i want to relace this with a space saver. 19 inch used space savers are rare and expensive - can i use an 18inch space saver given it is only a temporary fix
thanks

Stephen

All be it a "temporary time scale/fix" but I would be very concerned about safety and the balance of the car, let alone any legal matters that may crop up in an incident.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

7 minutes ago, mrmike said:

A couple of months ago I changed the front brake pads. After a day or two they had bedded in all OK. a few weeks ago I noticed that they had become a bit spongy and travel had increased, A quick pump stiffens them up.  With engine running I can slowly floor the pedal, without the Engine running the pedal is rock hard and does not go down. One thing I notice that has changed is when I apply the park brake the pedal used to push up against my foot, now this does not happen. Fluid level is OK, car brakes in a straight line and ABS is working. Normally pedal going to the floor means master cylinder but it is solid, however there is more pedal travel than before. I do not know when the brake fluid was changed but I would think it was at least 5 years ago from the receipts that I have with the car.

cheers

Mike

Mike

Test the brake fluid to see what water content there is. There are some relatively cheat ones on eBay that appear to work accurately. I have one of them and have had it compared to the more complex equipment at my main dealers, with same result.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174970386752

Best Wishes and Regards, John

Cutting 

9 hours ago, Dodg said:

hi everyone hope someone helps with my little problem ,ive been reading in the forums but cant find anywere about why my dash glow plug light is not on and var tries to start but wont , cheers 

David

Good luck with sorting the problem. I am certain someone on this Forum will have words of advice for you.

Welcome to the Club.  Regards, John

5 hours ago, patrick N said:

1989 - XJS C - MOHAIR HOOD COVER WANTED PLEASE. BLUE

Wondering if this may help you.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

Puzzle

14 hours ago, ScottyXF-S said:

been doing some research i dont believe the fob is at fault as the car wouldnt start without it ill go to a JLR tomorrow if need

That will cost you an arm and a leg. key Fobs are advertised for sell on eBay. That may be a cheaper way of proving if it is the fob.

Regards, John

Uncertain   

10 hours ago, JustBadly said:

I don't think a permanent treatment exists. Every year I'll put the 'S' on the ramps and spend a few hours underneath abrading and paint the subframes. The paint gets blasted off in places over the winter, so the next year, same job. 

Quite agree. I do not believe that any of the manufacturers of these products will actually give a life time guarantee, or anywhere near it. I stand to be corrected.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

1 hour ago, Davenports said:

Could be or it might be that the battery needed a boost as a low battery seems to cause a few of these sort of things according to threads on here.Or of course as it only does it occasionally it may come back.Will keep an eye on it

Cheers.

Get yourself a CTEK battery charger/conditioner. They are extremely good and do prevent what appears to be a lot of codes due to battery discharge when not being used. I have an S-Type, which appear to be even more prone to discharge and use my CTEK MS.7 at least once a week to top up the battery overnight and annually use the RECON setting to condition the battery.

Well worth the investment.

Best Wishes and Regards, John