Wrinkly

Now covered 28 miles and no Yellow Engine Management Light as yet. Usually reappears, after being reset, in between 18-20 miles. Fingers crossed it may be cured/fixed. Beat Wishes, John

Wave

Joe Many thanks for the information. I have replaced dipped beam bulbs with RING Xenon 200 bulbs and am finding that the beam has not improved tremendously. I have seen the replacement adjusters that are available, which lead me to believe my lights may be suffering "the droop", as you refer to it. I was hoping that some models did not have electric adjusters, thus saving the what I imagine is a fiddly fix procedure. I am presuming the H7 fitments that I have on my car are not HID. Have gained knowledge/information from somewhere, that I cannot remember where, that the whole of the front bumper has to be removed to fix headlight units. Does this apply to fitting the replacement adjuster kits that are available from Ebay. Hoping that the fix is relatively straight forward. Best Wishes and Regards, John

Do ALL Jaguar S Types have electric headlamp adjusters, or only certain models of certain years? Many thanks and Regards, John

American

Pigeon

Blackbirds

Suet

Chop

Shake

No idea which model of Code reader you have. My Jaguar Foseal OBD2 Code Reader informs you of which Cylinder number in which Bank is causing the problem. Good Luck and Best Wishes, Regards, John

Many thanks Jim. Cheers , John

Jim Likewise am I ok to fit direct to battery on my 2005 (Facelift) S Type. Thanks and Regards, John

Two

Tie

Shoes

Dancer

Yummy

New Catalytic Converter fitted yesterday. Quite a lot of destroyed rubbish found in the old one. (Photo attached). Code reset and has so far completed sixteen miles and no yellow management light as yet. On previous times of resetting the code it has taken up to 18-20 miles to regenerate. Fingers crossed this time. The moral of this story may be, I should not have spent time and money attempting to deal with the P0420 Code by cheaper methods first. I.E. new sensors upstream and down stream, smoke testing, checking all joints etc etc. Followed lots of sound and helpful advice but eventually had to "bite the bullet" and buy the new Catalytic Converter. Not to worry, hopefully job done now.

New Catalytic Converter fitted yesterday. Quite a lot of destroyed rubbish found in the old one. (Photo attached). Code reset and has so far completed sixteen miles and no yellow management light as yet. On previous times of resetting the code it has taken up to 18-20 miles to regenerate. Fingers crossed this time. The moral of this story may be, I should not have spent time and money attempting to deal with the P0420 Code by cheaper methods first. I.E. new sensors upstream and down stream, smoke testing, checking all joints etc etc. Followed lots of sound and helpful advice but eventually had to "bite the bullet" and buy the new Catalytic Converter. Not to worry, hopefully job done now.

Lamb

You will have to replace the actuator. I managed to find a good second hand one from a breaker who was very good and it arrived the following day. Yes it is accessed from in the boot. On the right hand side (offside).. Remove the finishing panels and you will see a rather strong looking bracket that on mine is coloured Black. Remove this black bracket and the attached electronics and with a bit of fiddling you can get your hand up in their to find two bolts holding in the actuator. Both need undoing but only one is necessary to take out. The other one slides out of a slot it fits into. The actuator can then be pulled out. One further but important thing, I established that there could be one of two different actuators on my car. I had to get the old one out first so as to establish which of the two I needed. It is very fiddly and needs a lot of patience. I achieved it and I am not known for my patience with fiddling with awkward things in awkward places. If you need to , do not be afraid to get back to me. Best Wishes and Good Luck, Regards, John

Proud

Purchased, as specified for my car:

Blackbirds