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Joe Thank you very much for your recent thoughts and advice regarding the Code P0240 and reading I am getting. You mention a IDS/SDD to plug in. Would this piece of equipment (link attached hereto) do the job of diagnosing the fault deeper/more specific. Being as my S Type is going to be a keeper for the rest of my "natural" (hopefully a probable 10 years at least) I would be prepared to invest in a diagnostic of this type if it was to be of more specific diagnosis detail than my Forseal OBD11 I currently use. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223569021373?hash=item340dc089bd:g:5rMAAOSwmZBg22Ey At this sort of price it would only be twice the price of a new Denso upstream Lambda Sensor. I have been given some advice by a technician, who is a friend of my Son in Law, that I should buy a new upstream Sensor and take a chance on the fact that it could well cure the problem, which in his view is where the problem is originating. Good if it happens to be the cure, but I feel I would like to attempt to diagnose the actual problem rather than just throw new parts at the job until something works. Your obvious experience and knowledge of this model is appreciated and therefor your views and advice are likewise respected. I anxiously await your response to this post. Best Wishes and Regards, John

Forgot to give the code produced. CODE : P0420 and reads, Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1.

My understanding is that there are two sensors on each cat, one forward and one rear of the cat. My ODB11 does not specify if either of these is faulty only that there is a difference/imbalance in the reading on the left bank. Other than buying both sensors (are they the same????) and changing one at a time has anyone any idea how I can identify which sensor is or may be at fault? Many thanks for this informative reply. Regards and Best Wishes , John

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Russ The yellow engine light has come on again and it is the same as before (18miles done). I.E. Left Bank Cat not within limits. With all the recent history explain in this thread I am surprised that it has raised it head yet again and so quickly. As is written herein there was no mention of anything to do with emissions at recent (and low mileage since) its last MOT. I have read elsewhere however that the problem may not be the actual (CAT) but related sensors, which I have no knowledge about at all. Feeling reluctant to go as far as replacing the CATs because of the very high price that they are. The car is showing no signs of any loss of performance or excessive exhaust or fumes of ant sort, in fact it is running extremely well. Any further advice from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Many Thanks and Regards, John

Russ My question had nothing to do with plugs, coils etc as they were all done about 200 miles ago and only because I had a warning about number 3 ignition coil having a problem. Although costing more, obviously, all six plugs and ignition coils and all inlet manifold gaskets were replaced with top quality parts. I do not believe in the cheapness of some of this Chinese manufactured parts that are available. At my age ( nearly 72) I have learned through the "university of life" that you only get what you pay for. If you are going to do a job, do it well, do it with quality products and it will be cheaper in the long run. I was advised because of the low mileage (62,000) only to do the No.3 cylinder. I am afraid I do not believe in this method of maintaining a classic I absolutely adore, see as the last of the true looking Jaguars and get tremendous pleasure from driving. My reason for asking was that another "know it all", (I stress nothing to do with this Forum) and I think we have all come across one or two of them, was convinced that Jaguar was totally different in describing left bank from south bank. Like, why ?????????????. Almost as though we were talking about the River Thames in London and which was the North or South Bank. The reason for establishing the correct interpretation was because I recently got a code error suggesting the emissions reading on the left bank CAT were not reading correctly. The car had only passed it`s MOT 350 miles before and had no issues or reports of any type. I am well aware of the fact that an MOT is as good as the person carrying out the test and is only truly valid at the time of the test. However having removed/reset the code it has not reoccurred as yet and I am not very likely. right or wrong, to do much about it until the car either plays up or fails an emission test. Thanks for answering my post. Beat Wishes and Regards, John

Have now found this link, which appears to answer the question and may be useful. https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/s-type-cylinder-numbering.102059/ Regards, John

When Jaguar and OBD11 codes refer to left-hand bank of the V6 is that the left bank when you stand in front of the car and look towards the engine? I ask because on many occasions the left side of a car is referred to as being the nearside/passenger side. Many Thanks And Best Wishes Regards, John

Everything (I think) needed to install properly has now been purchase. Am waiting for arrival and then the fitting will be undertaken. Thanks and Best Wishes to all involved along the way to getting to this point. Regards, John

Joe My sincere thanks for the extremely exacting and helpful information. I feel I can now make a decision on what way to go with this current project to keep the battery in good condition and topped up to avoid the disasters I have read of battery running too low on S Types. Best Wishes and Regards, John

Joe It is the pain again. Please could I ask a further question on top of what I have already posed you tonight. I am being advised that the manufacturers advise that extensions should be no longer that 2.5 meters. I know not why, but what would your take on this reported manufacturers advice be. I wonder if it anything to do with the length of the extension causes a loss of power in the 12v line? Also, as I have tried cable into the boot and shut the boot lid on it, it crimps the outer casing (is that insulation) of the cable, which makes me wonder what will be happening to the two cables inside the cable. I notice 12v red/black wiring is available without the outer casing/covering which is plainly a great deal thinner than the twin cables with an outer covering. Would these non casing cables be safe to use or should I go for the outer covering twin cable like you have suggested in your last message. Sorry to further trouble you. Many thanks and gratitude. Regards, John

Joe Thank you very much for this explicit and informative suggestion. I will certainly go down your route to achieve my aim. I now realise I may need to go as much as 12 metres in cable length, but doubt that will change your instructions. One further question, if I may be a nuisance again. Would the same suggested materials apply if I went down the route of an CTEK MXS 7.0 or would a different cable and amperage apply. With many thanks for your time and effort in finding and sending these details. Best Wishes and Regards, John

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Jim My main problem is I do not have a garage. I am attempting to keep the 240v side of the charger indoors and 12v lead only outside. I will need something at least 8-10 metres to do so. Regards, John

Joe Have been trying to find a 12v twin cable at least 10 meters in length to attempt to achieve what you are suggesting here. I.E. Keeping 249v inside the house and only having 12v outside running to the boot. Am finding all sorts of cables being quoted at differing amps. CTEK extension cables are only 2.5 Metres in length , which will be very costly and have numerous joints exposed to all weathers outside. Am wanting a one piece 12v twin extension lead. 1/ What amps do I need for this wiring at 12v 2/ Am assuming that I will have to fit new CTEK comfort plugs to the lead. Do these HAVE to be soldered, as that is something I have never done and have no knowledge of. Many thanks with this ongoing saga. Regards, John

Whoops , sorry forgot to add the link. Older age does not come alone !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link: https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/uk/home Regards, John

As a newcomer to Jaguar for the second time in my 71 years and not owned since I was about 18. I have found the need to obtain parts several times recently and this supplier has proved very fruitful for me. Also very helpful on the telephone, with advice and quick with delivery. Regards, John

I have tried a cable as described above and the boot lid crimps the cable. A bit concerned about what is going on with the two cables in side? Regards, John

Joe Many thanks for informative reply. Put like you have I can easily understand the safety of keeping the 240v inside the house, keeping the charger inside the house would also make it easier to see what status the charger is showing without having to go into the boot. I shall have to explore and see if CTEK supply a long enough 12v connection cable to reach the car and hopefully the plug end will pass through the bung entry I have identified in the boot area. Many thanks and Regards, John

Joe I feel certain you would be the person to give me an answer on this question. Found a slit rubber bung in the very lower part of the boot area, which looks obviously for passing a cable through. Would the item on the under placed link be safe if used for an entry into the boot area, if used with the caps that they can supply for each end of the unit when they are parted. I had in mind running a 240v cable to the car with one part of this unit attached to it. The other part of the unit would be attached to a 240v cable after it had been passed through the rubber bung. The other end of this cable would then have a 13 amp socket attached to it. This 13 amp could then be used to connect the CTEK 7.0. When not in use the cable in the boot could be pulled gently up to the outside of the boot and secured so as the unit did not dangle onto the ground under the car as it travelled. The other query is : on the write up for this unit "PE" is mentioned. Is there any way of explaining simply to a non electrical brain what "PE" actual is/means ? https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/industrial-circular-connectors/3594384/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-CSS_UK_EN_Connectors_Whoop-_-Industrial+Circular+Connectors_Whoop-_-3594384&matchtype=&pla-346913906554&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7JOyzdS18gIVhuvtCh0q7g9dEAQYBSABEgK_UvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Many thanks again. Best Wishes and Regards, John

Julie Many thanks. I will check that actual fuse tomorrow as it appears to be only feeding the console connection. Regards, John

Have now found a fuse box layout diagram and it appears the console 12v is on the same fuse as the handbrake on illumination light and is 10 amp fuse. My Handbrake illumination light (Red on the dashboard clocks) is working. I am therefore (rightly or wrongly) assuming that the fuse is in good condition. This does again pose the question why does this connection in the console not work. I have plugged a tyre inflator in there and it does not work, where as it does work in the cigarette light but only with ignition on.🤔😕 F26 10 2002-2008: Electric parkbrake switch illumination, AM/FM antenna amplifier, sunblind motor, accessory socket relay (cigar lighter and power point relay)

Julie Many thanks. The one in the dash is definitely a lighter, as it has the lighter in it. It only appears to work with ignition on. I am wondering if there is actually anyway it can be made to work without the ignition turned on. Is the 12v in the console likely to work with out ignition on and can it, if it does, be used to power a OTEK 5.0 charger/conditioner. I will have to attempt to fine out where the fuse for this 12v console connection is located. Many thanks and Regards, John

My S Type appears to have two Cigarette Lighter Connections: 1/ In the ash tray (never used thankfully) this will work if the ignition is turned on but is not live with the ignition off. 2/ In the storage box between the two front seats this one does not appear to work at all when anything is plugged into it, neither with ignition on or ignition off. Why does No 2 not work at all and can I somehow have either of them working with the the ignition turned fully off and the car locked. I ask this mainly because I want to use an OTEK 5.0, which Otek`s website states can be powered from a cigarette lighter connection as long as the connection stays live when the ignition is turned off. This would resolve the problem I am having with not wanting a mains connection into the boot, from the house, whilst the car is locked overnight on the drive because of not having a garage. Have been dissuaded by this Forum not to use the Solar Panel chargers which will connect via EOBD connector which works with ignition off and car locked. Many thanks for your time and any possible answers or advice. Best Wishes and Regards, John

Joe Many thanks for the advice. Regards, John