msmicksmith

I believe you. I new exactly which model and what trim it had to have and I hadn't even seen one in a showroom! Absolutely chuffed with mine. It had to be the 2.2D Sport, and I wanted one that stands out from the crowd and in the Ultraviolet colour with the Sport 18" Arubas it does exactly that! Also had to be black half leather interior with the piano black fascia. Cruise control was must too. Took 12 months to find it but so glad I waited! Since remapping the ecu it pushes most bigger engined cars out the way now. Even embarrased an XF! I've been slowly replacing the suspension bits too. Front and rear anti roll bar bushes, anti roll bar drop links, front discs and pads, all the filters. All genuine Jag parts toi except for Febi-Bilstein drop links. After all this it drives like brand new and has arou d 420Nm of torque so pulls like a train!

I found this for you. http://www.scotsman.com/motors/reviews/jaguar/x-spots-the-marque-1-2656362

Also, don't forget that Jaguar is owned by Ford

20% of the X-Type is Mondeo based. Both diesel engines are Ford powerplants. Brakes, bearings, hubs, certain suspension components, ecu and related electronics are all Ford. It's a bit of misunderstanding (or ignorance) that many people say, "It's only a pretty Ford", or, "It's just a Mondeo." A chunk of it is bog standard Ford Mondeo, but the rest is most definitely Jaguar. I have the 2.2D Sport and my best mate has a Mondeo 2.2 ST TDCi. Identical engines. As lovely as his Mondeo is, it's no Jaguar! They are worlds apart and given that much of the suspension etc is identical on his ST, it doesn't ride anything like my Jag. Even the sound the doors make when closing or the clunk of the central locking. The Mondeo is definitely behind the Jag in the prestige and build. That said, when it comes to running costs, because a huge chunk of what would usually need replacing is Ford based, it's cheap as chips!

Yes, Sport springs are definitely different from the standard ones. They are stiffer and shorter. The Sport has a lower ride height from the other models. Definitely worth changing both too, if for no other reason than just in case the other one snaps. Beside that, the other side will react differently over bumps and will make the car feel like one side is tight and the other is a bit loose.

There are differences between the diesel and petrol models and between manual and auto, and there is a change for the facelift models too (2008 - on). Provided you have them for the petrol model in either auto or manual, depending on which your car is, they'll be the same. Bear in mind there are two types though. Comfort and Sport, so obviously you'll need the Sport ones. If you're looking second hand I'd recommend not bothering. You ideally need to replace both springs, as they lose their tension over the years and you'll find that a new one will be shorter than the one you remove most likely, due to the old one losing its strength etc. If you fit only one new spring you'll get uneven 'bounce', and a second-hand one will have no guarantee that it won't snap in a week, month etc. Try these - http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk They do good quality OEM parts for your car for £40 each or Genuine Jaguar ones for £80

And now the sun is out. Go and enjoy your Jag!

Also, remember that these engines are Ford motors so will be readily available in Ford suppliers too. Attach the Jaguar brand name to it and the price usually goes in one direction!........

Testing isn't. You only really pay for labour. The test process itself isn't much. However the injectors are anywhere from 95-150 each! I wouldn't use Jaguar main dealers either. A good local diesel specialist is your best option if you aren't doing it yourself. It's what these guys live for and they are generally very good at it. Expect around £35 an hour in labour and the job of removal and replacing with all new injectors would be around 2-3 hours work.

None of that is normal. Given your description I'd say you have a failing injector. They are a common fault on the 2.0D The black smoke is a result of excess or poorly atomised diesel being injected into the cylinders. Because it doesn't burn properly you then need to put your foot on the accelerator harder to get the acceleration which puts more fuel in which doesn't burn properly etc etc and the result is clouds of black smoke. An injector can fail to close properly too. When required, the ecu tells the injector to open and close which fires the required dose of diesel into the chamber. A failing solenoid within the injector can mean it doesn't close fully, or if it does it may be slow to react and allow too much fuel to pass before it manages to close, and fuel is continually 'leaked'. This results in excess diesel (also at the wrong time) and causes a drop in pressure in the common rail. It isn't enough to put the ecu light on but it is enough for the ecu to compensate for it by raising the fuel pressure in the whole system. This means all the other working injectors deliver fuel at a higher pressure which in reality is excess fuel. Hence the black smoke. I'd lean towards one, or more, faulty injectors. The only way to find the failing one is to remove them and pressure test them, although I expect the faulty one will be as black as the ace of spades! It would certainly account for the smoke, the misfire, and the inability to rev.

No compression on 3 cylinders is a tough one. On 4 I would say snapped timing chain but if 1 cylinder has compression then the valves must be operating in which case the chain must be intact and turning the cams. I have to say I don't believe the garages diagnosis. When you turn the engine over, how does it sound? Does it make an even, rhythmic pop pop pop pop (sorry) or does it turn quick then slow, quick then slow?

Sadly, there are a lot of things that can cause that. It will be a case of a process of elimination but start with the easiest first. Usually, these type of faults are caused by something simple. In a diesel there's not much in the way of 'simple' to check. Injectors are a common problem and usually it's because of dirt around the nozzle. I use Millers Diesel Eco-Power additive to clean mine as its easy and effective. Finding these faults isn't easy as they don't show a fault in the ecu and no fault codes are stored. All you can do is cover the basics then start the process of replacing possible suspect parts. One part which can cause running faults but often isn't detected as faulty by the ecu is the Air Mass Meter. You can try removing it and cleaning it with carb cleaner. DON'T touch the sensor with anything. They are extremely sensitive. The best I'd suggest is a rolled up piece of kitchen roll to gently rub the surface with but nothing more. Unfortunately if it's faulty the cleaning won't fix it and you'll not know unless you renew it. They aren't horrendously priced though. EGR operation on yours is vacuum operated I think. Check the vacuum hose isn't split or that further up its supply line isn't damaged. A loss of vacuum will cause the EGR to not fully operate. Get the basics covered first though. Injector and fuel delivery system cleanup with Millers. Remove and clean the EGR valve. The cleaner burn from using Millers will ensure its stays clean afterwards. Replace the air filter. Genuine Jaguar is only 15 quid. Once you have the basics sorted you can then start the less easy stuff but you may find you cure the problem beforehand

Welcome to the forum. Any more detail you can add to your cruising problem? Lots of people on here who will help if they can

Try this - http://www.jaguarownersclub.com/forums/topic/9684-range-brochure-specs-and-options/

Thought someone might find this useful x-type-2006-pdf-may-26-2008-8-53-pm-919k.pdf

The SE was also discontinued in favour of the Sovereign. Plenty of models and specs and remember that each model had it's own list of factory fitted options too, so you can find pretty much any model with any spec you want. There are literally thousands of them out there. I hunted for a long time to find mine but it was worth the wait

The Sport and SE are different specs. The Sport is the only one to have the larger wheels and the lower, firmer suspension. The SE has standard suspension and the smaller wheels. The SE though will come with more interior features as standard. Can't remember exactly which, but generally it's a more 'luxurious' model whereas the Sport is.... erm..... sportier! ;-)

Sorry, I didn't mean to quote about the side skirts. They are the same on all models. They aren't actually skirts, they are sills, although they aren't like normal sills. Normal sills are formed to make a complete panel. These are just an outer skin and you can put your fingers up the inside. The 2.0D is the same as the 2.2D in terms of trim. Only difference is the engine and gearbox. Obviously, the engine difference is only the cubic capacity, being 200cc smaller.They are fundamentally the same engine, just different capacity. The main difference is the gearbox. 2.0D has a 5-speed, 2.2D has a 6-speed.In general, the fuel economy is slightly better on the 2.0D, but it's only 2-3mpg in real terms. I still get 43-48mpg out of my 2.2D and I've had it remapped to 200bhp

Mine has that too. Black half leather also. Took me 12 months to find the right spec!

I have the 2.2 Sport. The difference is the rear boot spoiler, side skirts, front grille (stainless mesh), 18" Aruba alloys instead of 17's, and the suspension. It's lower and stiffer. The engine is identical so no actual performance gain but the ride is firmer and handling is sharper. The Sport Premium has all of the above except it has different, more solid looking 18" alloys, the grille has the solid vertical ribs and it comes with the display screen/satnav as standard. That one you're looking at on Autotrader is a Sport due to the grille and alloys. The satnav screen is an optional extra on that model, as was (believe it or not) aircon! Hence the sunroof. Check it has aircon if you want it as it may not have had it fitted from new

Welcome aboard. Only one request with your insurance battle........ Don't let the b***ards win! ! ;-)

All down to personal choice I think. I wanted the X-Type and bought my 2005 2.2D Sport for 4500 quid. 20% of the parts are shared with the Ford Mondeo so it's cheap as chips to run. I had it ECU remapped last month and the difference was well worth the 295 quid! So far I've cleaned the EGR valve, fitted new front discs and pads, new front and rear anti roll bar mounting bushes, anti roll bar drop links and the oil, air and fuel filters along with Mobil 3000 oil. All genuine Jaguar components except for the drop links which are Febi- Bilstein and a total cost of £220. I do all my own maintenance work as I don't trust garages so I pay zero labour. The hardest job so far was the front anti roll bushes as the sub frame needs dropping to gain access but that job only took 2 hours. And not a single electrical gremlin. I love the X-Type and I'm glad I went for the 2.2 and the Sport. Even with the ECU remap I get around 42mpg normally and 50+ on a run. The remap has given just shy of 200bhp and 366lbft. Going on the rolling road next month after I've cleaned out the intercooler so will get a definite power reading then. I didn't want it to drive like a hooligan but it needs to drive how a Jaguar should and even in 2.2 guise a modern Renault Scenic diesel could keep up with it. Not anymore!

I'm going to hedge my bets and go for prop shaft bearing. Please put me out of my misery and let me know ;-)

You can check UJ's by checking if the two sections of prop shaft can be moved in opposite directions from each other. Lift the rear wheels and make sure the handbrake is off and you're in neutral. Then grab one half in one hand and the other half in the other hand either side of the UJ and twist. Any movement indicates wear. They should be rigid

I'm not familiar with that particular model but with what you've mentioned I'd be inclined to check the prop shaft bearing (if it has one, which I'm sure it will). If that is ok then the rumbling and vibration has to be either diff related or driveshaft/ bearings. Prop shaft bearing would be my number one to check