msmicksmith

Thanks mate! Still not 100% and won't really know until Saturday night but am hopeful

Cheers gents. I take it then that if I turn up at midday, 1 o'clock ish, that I'll be able to drive to where you all are and park with the group? Or are vehicle movements restricted?

What's the crack with the meet? Is it part of a larger event? Will we all park together? And is there a cutoff arrival time or an earliest departure time? I may not be able to stay for long if I can get there at all, (Other things have appeared on the radar unfortunately), but I'd like to try, just not sure of when I can get there and then how long I can stay. Ta in advance

Again, a multitude of causes but the fuel pressure is also a likely cause. Whether it be causes by a faulty injector, pump or pressure sensor is obviously unknown as yet but all viable. The black smoke could well be a result of an injector failing to close, which would result in a drop in pressure due to it leaking through the injector. That would cause excess diesel to pass into the chamber and be passed, unburnt, into the exhaust which would cause black smoke. I've discussed injectors on another thread. It is quite likely to the cause and could be any or all of the injectors causing it. I put a lot of these faults with fuel systems down to driving style and fuel used. Cheap, low quality diesel has little lubricating and protection properties and causes wear. Millers EcoMax additive and racing 2-stroke oil are what I use and have recommended to others with great success. More expensive diesel has better lubrication properties but all these days are low sulpher so the problem will still exist to some degree with the older engines like ours. Also, driving style. People believe that slow and steady is best for preserving their engine, and on a petrol that is true. Diesels need to be worked though. Not thrashed, just kept under load and made to work. It keeps them clean and at optimum performance

The ecu light and power loss can be a multitude of things. The 2.2 is less susceptible to the injector faults that the 2.0 commonly suffers and the usual suspect of this behaviour is the EGR valve which once blocked gets stuckand either can't open or close fully which sticks the warning light on and drops the power to prevent engine damage. They are easily cleaned but if defective can cost around 150 to replace depending on where you get it, and labour on top of around 2 hours

Off topic I know, but relevant to most of us. Just a warning for you so you hopefully don't get conned. A mate of mine did a google search for road rax and was led to the following site - https://direct-gov.uk.net/taxdisc_renewal.php Looks legit doesn't it? And in many ways it is. It's a perfectly legal site offering to assist in getting your Road tax from the DVLA. You even get an email confirmation from the DVLA to say your tax disc will be in the post and a few days later, it arrives at your letterbox. The issue here though is that the site looks almost exactly like the DVLA site, so you would think nothing of applying as normal for your road tax. In the small print, however, is a £40 charge for their services, which there is no notification of until you've paid! Apparently this was on the TV not long ago but I missed it. So did my mate, who got caught out by it! Hopefully by spreading this about, I can put a dent in these theiving sods profits!

You and me both William. My blood positively overheated and pressurised on Saturday. Luckily though, I spent 10 minutes today, in the rain, with some T-Cut and it's gone completely. Never been one for vigilantism but I'll make an exception for these inconsiderate !Removed!!

My wife has a 93 too! Diesel though and hard top. Have managed to get her to be a little more careful where she parks it and so far so good. Her last car was splattered in dents!

I refuse to park my car in a parking bay properly as every time I do someone parks next to it and opens their door into it and dents it. I stopped parking properly a few years ago when I had a mint Vectra V6 and continue to this day. I'm not inconsiderate with it though. In a busy carpark I will park further away if necessary so that I leave spaces available nearer to the store or I'll find an end spot and overhang the end a bit etc. So you can imaging how p***ed off I was yesterday when I found this on my drivers door! I despise these inconsiderate idiots! Really good job I wasn't there when they did it!

These things happen for a reason Peter. I was so tempted with the S-Type when looking for my X. A neighbour of mines son has the 2.7 with the sports pack. All the chrome grilles, big alloys and lower suspension and it's beautiful! I couldn't find one and the others appeal to the older generation more then mine, and rightly they should. They're a great car and that 2.7 is a masterpiece. Shame the X-Type didn't have the 2.7 option. Perhaps I can shoehorn one in?!

The older 2.7 is a lovely engine. The later one in the early XF is a tractor by comparison. Mine pulls hard from about 1200rpm. Used to tail off at around 3000 rpm but since remapping pulls harder from 1200 rpm and builds rapidly up to 1500-1800 then continues all the way to around 4200! Totally transformed it!

Timed mine a few times a little while ago and averaged 7.4secs to 60mph. The top speed is 70 officer! Even if I thrashed it everywhere it would still exceed 35mpg so I personally can't justify a petrol of this era. I appreciate the noise is different and the power delivery isn't the same but I personally prefer the low down grunt of a torquey diesel turbo. Each to their own though. With the 2.2 diesel the 0-60 isn't where it performs best. The gearing of the 6 speed box and the lack of high revs make it a pretty pointless exercise. Where it is best is from 40 to around warp 7, where the in gear acceleration of 4th, 5th and 6th are quite something, especially after the remap. My 2.5 Vectra V6 was good but this would leave it in the weeds from 70 onwards!

On a holiday trip from my end near Spalding, Lincs to Blackpool I screwed 59.4 out of my X-Type and it wasn't an eco drive. I drove it fairly normally. Just shows the difference between the petrol verses diesel. I don't think the performance figures between the 2.5 petrol and the 2.2 diesel are much apart either, and having had my ecu remapped, I think the only noticeable difference will be the low down grunt uphill from the diesel. I know diesels aren't everyones choice but on this generation of engine I can't really see much of a market for the petrol.

Insurers are likely to refuse to pay out of they find the car has been modified and not declared, however, ecu remapping is virtually undetectable. They'd have to download the software and analyse it minutely to detect any changes and if they're prepared to do that then you've done something extremely serious on the roads and will most likely be either dead or seriously screwed anyway and that'll be the least of your worries! On the other hand, many won't be too bothered. You might find that the premium change is extremely minor. Perhaps worth enquiring 'for your mate'........ When you do get it remapped, you might find initially that the performance increase is barely noticeable and may question why you spent the money. Take it for a good thrashing and see the difference after the ECU adjusts accordingly! Report back the grin factor!

It may fix it. If the cells in the battery have shorted it may cause you running issues. It's a good place to start since, as Peter says, these cars are dependent on sound electrical supplies, as most modern cars are. Once running, the alternator should provide all the power the car needs without a battery, but if the battery is faulty internally, it may be causing a power fault

You'll probably find it's the sliders the calipers operate on, the pad mounting areas (which do get rusty), or both. Worth stripping the calipers off, cleaning all the rust off where the pads locate into (there might also be metal shims in there to which need removing and cleaning) by gently tapping any larger bits off with a flat bladed screwdriver, then rubbing then over with some abrasive paper and wire brush to get it smooth. The sliding pins will gently pull out of their holes and pull out of their rubber seals and you can then clean out down the holes with a piece of tag on a thin screwdriver or something similar, rub the crap off the pins until smooth and regrease with high temp grease or copper slip. Remember to add a small smear of copper grease to the pad lugs and their locating points on the calipers when reassembling and fit new pads. Get a decent brand. Either genuine or something like EBC, Ferodo, Apec etc. Avoid cheap rubbish like Blue Print or First Line. Before removing the calipers, use a strong flat bladed screwdriver to lever the pads back so that the piston pushes fully into the caliper. It's easier than wrestling with it when it's loose in your hand. Use the old pads to lever against inside the caliper so you don't damage the discs. It may be quite stiff but should free and then push back fairly easily. If the discs are shot, good time to fit new. Hope it helps

There should be no need to tell your dealer any of that. A service is just a replacing of fluids and filters and checking on other components such as brakes etc. The ecu and its programming will make no odds to it at all, neither will what you put in the fuel tank, so long as it's what's meant to be in it. Millers and 2 stroke in correct ratios won't cause any issues with a dealer or a service. Dealers may sometimes create problems where warranties are concerned if you're putting something in the tank that they don't support but then they'll take issue with an ecu remap too so I personally wouldn't bother simply because it's unnecessary.

I would be inclined to agree. £1000 is a little insulting isn't it? I agree they aren't worth much, my 2005 X-Type isn't worth huge bucks but when it comes to upgrading it, I'll be in half a mind to keep it. Where I live there is a classic car show every year and it'll eventually fit right in there!

I'm intending that to be my next purchase! Welcome to the club

Had one of the originals go 'missing' so was going to order one from fleabay until I saw these in the dealers. £9 each but worth it I reckon! If anyone needs any standard Jag head on green replacements, I have three!

Found these new centre caps in my local dealer. Would have been ride not to buy them!

You'll get loads of Mondeo quips. Give it time. Bear in mind though that only 20% of it is Mondeo based and 10% of that is modified! Rear suspension is from the Mondeo estate but the chassis was modded so that the suspension mounted differently to give the ride quality and handling 'feel'. It may share certain components with Fords flagship but it most definitely isn't a Mondeo. It's as much a Mondeo as a Saab 93 is Vectra or an Audi A4 is a Skoda. Wouldn't call a Bugatti Veyron a VW Phaeton! The majority of manufacturers share components between models and marques. It's the only way to continue to make a business. I see nothing wrong with it. The only people who pass derogatory comments about it being a Mondeo in a dress are either ignorant, jealous, or your mates!

Glad to help

The engine management light will illuminate for various faults relating to the ecu and the relevant sensors. Any one of them could cause the light to illuminate and the only way to identify it is to read the fault code with a diagnostic code reader. There are several on the market that will do the job. My dad has one that I've tested on my X-Type and it worked fine. If you don't have access to one, then a Jaguar dealer or independent will be able to read it and tell you the fault, for a fee obviously. Most charge around 40 quid

They all have an overflow outlet. It's because when the systrm is hot and pressurised, the cap acts as a pressure relief valve and any excess coolant is allowed to leak past the pressure cap and out of the system to prevent over pressurising the system and causing something to pop. There is channel on the inside of the expansion tank where the excess will flow out. When filling the tank, it's easy to splash a bit down that opening.