msmicksmith

I got my filters direct from Jaguar. Air filter was only £15. Mine is an X-Type 2.2D though

Welcome Gordon. You'll quickly find this to be the best Jaguar Forum on the Internet and full of friendly, helpful enthusiasts. Feel free to ask away, and all contributions are eagerly received

Feel free to fire away. Welcome aboard. I doubt you'll ever buy another brand from now on. I know I won't!

Welcome aboard. I've the X-Type Sport 2.2D and have had it remapped by Celtic Tuning. Now pushing near 200bhp and 420Nm of torque! It's a fantastic car. Usual stuff with these. Most of the running gear is Mondeo based, so it's tried and tested and pretty much as reliable as the sun. Nothing special to look out for either. Just the usual, run of the mill stuff, as if you were buying a Mondeo! That said, only 20% of it is Mondeo 'based', and about 10% of that was modified so it definitely isn't a Mondeo. My mate has the same year Mondeo 2.2D ST and it is totally different. Main thing to look for its the dual mass flywheel. They usually last around 80-120k but cost about 400 quid to replace with the clutch, so if it has rattles, leave it. If it's been done already, your laughing. If you don't know but it's quiet and the clutch bites as it should (the 2.2 does bite a little hard) then you take your chances just like any other 2nd hand motor. The rest is like any other car. I've replaced front discs and pads, all 4 anti roll bar mounting bushes, anti roll bar drop links, oil-air-fuel filters and Mobil 3000 oil. All genuine parts except the Febi-Bilstein drop links and a total parts bill of around 200 quid. I do all my own work so no labour fees. The bushes etc weren't knackered at all, but I wanted it to feel new, and now it does! The anti roll bushes and drop links made a substantial difference. The discs were shot. Provided you buy one that's been looked after, they are extremely reliable cars. My recommendation, if you're after the Sport model, is get the 2.2. The 2.0 is a bit sedate and the 2.2 has the 6 speed box. If you want a bit more, get Celtic Tuning to pay you a visit. They come to you and only take an hour. Best 295 quid I've spent!

Front discs and pads are actually quite easy to do. Keep all the surfaces cleaned with a wire brush, chip away any uneven corrosion from the pad mounting slots and apply a small smear of copper grease to them and you'll be fine. It's a good idea to pull out the caliper guide pins and clean them and regrease them too. They'll pop out of the rubber seal if you pull gently. Keep them in the the same locations whe refitting. They are usually slightly different so make sure the top one is refitted in the top. Remember to also clean and copper grease the hub before fitting the new disc as there will be small amounts of corrosion under the old disc which will prevent the new one from fitting fully flush to the hub. And the new discs come coated in a fine coating of grease to prevent them rusting. Be sure to wipe it off as thoroughly as you can from the braking surfaces prior to fitting the pads. I also use the old discs and pads to lever the piston back into the caliper before I unbolt it all. It's easier than trying to do it afterwards and it doesn't matter if the old stuff gets damaged. A big, flat screw driver usually suffices

This was mentioned some time ago by another member. I had the same issue but with mine it was the climate unit. After scratching it accidentally, I replaced it with one from eBay for 25 quid. It sorted the problem, so it's definitely a fault in the unit rather than the supply.

Good question. A tiny amount of warp can feel like a major vibration so it's really difficult to tell which is warped without measuring them. I tend to go on the appearance. If the disc has a big lip at the top and/or bottom of the braking surface or has some bad corrosion then replace them. Be sure to check both sides of the disc as the outside can look perfectly good but the inside be corroded and pitted. This is generally caused by stiff or seized calipers causing one side to apply pressure on the disc whilst the other side does very little. In this case you need to strip the caliper guides out and clean them up, replace the pins if necessary and grease then up wirh copper grease. General rule of thumb is if the discs look badly worn, corroded or 'lipped' then replace them anyway. Also, low pad material or thin discs can can cause a warp-like sensation as the heat isn't dissipated and the brakes overheat. If the discs are clean but the pads low then replace the pads. Brakes are more complex than people think and many factors can cause a myriad of symptoms, but generally, if they look bad bin them. A warped disc will be felt at any speed, fast or slow, so if yours feel fine at lower speeds I'd say that the cause of the high speed braking 'warp' is down to low pads material, thin discs, or both

It's almost impossible to fail an MoT for brake condition. So long as they meet the performance test on the rollers they have to be practically in bits before they can be failed! Cracks can only be advised, as can thickness. Unless the pad material has fallen out or there are chunks of metal missing from the disc, it's not considered a fail.

Yes I've had rear discs cause vibration issues in the past. I would always advise new discs where possible. For the cost of them, it really isn't worth the hassle of removing the old ones, taking them to a machine shop, collecting them afterwards and refitting them with less metal to dissipate the heat generated from braking, especially high speed braking. It just invites brake fade. I replaced my front discs and pads on my X Sport for £63. Not genuine parts but Apec, which are a good quality pattern part.

The ecu will automatically sort out the regeneration process when it senses that the engine is in the correct environment. Basically, once warmed up, if the car is driven at a constant speed, usually above 50 mph approx, the ecu will raise the exhaust temperature to around 600 degrees to burn the soot out of the DPF. The carbon is collected by the filter as the particles are quite large. Burning the carbon reduces it to micro particles which dissipate into the environment, allegedly harmlessly. If, like Peter says, you only do short, low speed journeys the environment is never correct for this process to be triggered and eventually the DPF will block up causing the dash light to illuminate and reduced power. An occasional longer, faster run will induce the required situation for the ecu to perform it's overheating process, which usually needs to be for around 15 mins. They are a pain in the a*se, but required as a result of diesel engines being more polluting than Brussels allow and our engine technologies unable to reduce the pollutants without a post-burn treatment process. What irritates me is that manufacturers could easily put in a warning system to tell the driver that the DPF is getting close to its limit and another system to say when the engine is within its 'sweet spot' and that regeneration is taking place. This would mean the driver could sort out his own DPF cleaning without having to visit the main dealers after the inevitable blockage....... not sure it'll catch on though given that there is a £70 an hour labour charge to be had by the aforementioned dealers!

Just to add more confusion into your choice over the X or the S, Peter will tell you the S is the one to go for whereas I will say you need the X. I was tempted with the S but was only really interested in the 2.7D twin turbo sport one with all the chrome mesh grilles and huge alloys. I went for the X as it's my preference in styling. Go with your heart. I don't think the choice when it comes to a Jaguar should be governed by your head in any way. If you choose a car using your head, you'll buy a Smart.............

Not all no. Only certain petrol models. All diesels are front wheel drive. When Jaguar launched the X-Type the purist Jaguar owner and the press nearly vomited with shock and horror at the front wheel drive concept so Jaguar made the AWD in an attempt to silence their fears. Originally, all Jaguars were RWD due to the engines being mounted longitudinally. When the X-Type was designed, it used transversely mounted V6 engines driving the front wheels because the car wasn't big enough to simply 'turn' the engine in the engine bay. Jaguar then put a transfer box in to drive the rear wheels as well on some models. Once the purists had gotten over the shock of losing the rear wheel drive only concept, Jaguar then slapped them again with the introduction of a diesel model! The first ever diesel to go into a Jaguar. Once again the purists nearly choked!

The liklihood then, given your description and the garages diagnosis, is that the cam chain snapped causing the valves in 3 cylinders to bend. The 4th cylinder might have got lucky and the cams been in such a position that they were closed when it snapped. This would be the only way I could see it having compression on 1 cylinder but not the other 3. Sadly for you that means cylinder head off and possible replacement head. When valves are bent by contact with pistons in that way, the result is often cracked valve guides in the head. They can be machined out and replaced if your garage has the facilities. If they aren't cracked, which I've only come across a few times (and I've done several hundred cylinder heads) then the valves need replacing and grinding in. It's not a job for the inexperienced and will cost a bit in labour. Worst case, expect around 8-12 hours labour at a competent garage. That is if it is the camchain that has snapped.

Not sure I'd have your reserved patience Trevor. 510 horses!! I'd be far too tempted to unleash them on a regular basis! Struggled to contain my laughter in my 380bhp Supra 3.0 Turbo!

Good to have specialist knowledge on board! Welcome. So how do I go about getting DAB in my X-Type?

Only visual and physical movement checks really. An engine mount would usually be felt when taking up drive from stationary in either forward or reverse and would be heard as a light clunk. Driveshaft bearing is a case of removing the under tray and getting on your back under the car. If the shaft moves at all up or down in the bearing which is mounted to the engine (the driveshaft runs through it) then it's worn. However, with that little extra info you supplied, it's possible that it is a misfire. The 2.0D is renowned for injector faults and the speed you say it occurs at is common for the symptoms of a failing injector. Do you get any excess black smoke out the exhaust when you accellerate?

Cheers Simon. Peter, I'll keep an eye out for your cap blowing in the wind! :-)

Love my diesel. It's smooth, quiet, refined, doesn't smell, doesn't puff an ounce of smoke, pulls like a train from barely over tickover and returns brilliant mpg. Granted, many are like old Massey Fergussons but the 2.2 isn't a bad motor, and the 3.0 in the XF is superb. I do love a big engined petrol but planning my routes around fuel stations isn't on my agenda anymore these days ;-)

Yep, add me. It's an excuse for a drive out in the Jag! Peter, let me know what time your planning and I'll try to hook up with you

Do you feel it in the steering at all? All usual suspects for vibration like this would be steering components and possibly the bearing on the long driveshaft. Possibly even an engine mount

Did my X-Type 2.2D Sport with Celtic Tuning in February. They came to me, downloaded and modified my program then uploaded it back to the ecu. Initially, not a big difference but after a few miles the change is enormous! Massive torque gains and the delivery is right across the rev range instead of just the early part of it as it was in standard guise. They claim a 25% increase and although I've not had any rolling road tests, I believe it. Well worth the 300 quid

I didn't watch the video. Is it any good? I meant the article. It covers quite a lot about the X-Type

Just be careful of one thing. If you have a manual gearbox, you will have to pull the leather shroud around the gear lever out of its mounts. The clips are metal. When you unscrew the climate control unit and pull it down to access the cables behind, it will rest on the gear lever, where the metal clips will scratch the display! Just like mine did! Thankfully, £25 on eBay for a replacement! :-)

Nice one. I don't mind being wrong, I was diagnosing over the internet! ;-) Enjoy your super smooth Jag!

If the ecu light is illuminated then there must be a code stored. I have known some code readers to not find codes where others have so it's possible that the garage is using a 'cheaper' or less capable reader (unless you took it to a Jaguar garage?) The only component I've come across in my 35 years experience which has caused exactly those symptoms, and on occasion hadn't caused the ecu light to illuminate so no fault code, is the MAF sensor, or Mass Air Flow sensor. The only way to find out though is to replace it with a known working part. Other parts I would consider would be the cam position sensor, fuel pressure regulator, accelerator pedal potentiometer, lambda sensors (although these don't generally cause power loss). There are a few others but they aren't what I would consider the main culprit. All of these would cause an illuminated ecu light but as there is doubt over the code reader, I would still consider them