david moore

well as the title says, im still loving my jag. we are so quick to moan about what and when it goes wrong, but with me ive still got a big grin on my face each time i drive my jag. :-) ok so ive done a lot to this car and to be honest i still will !.... as i want to keep this car on the road as long as i can....it goes in tomorrow for an engine oil flush, along with new oil filter-new fully synthetic 5w-30 oil. ( mileage to date 92670)

remove the wheel, then remove plastic wheel arch liner, measure where the tensioner bolt is, then drill a hole with a tank cutter which you should be able to put a socket in to release the tensioner. place a rubber grommet in the hole after doing job. good luck.

looks like your a busy man judging by the photos.! is this a series1 4.2ltr roadster or coupe. back in england these cars can sell from £20,000 upto £60,000+ depends on condition, this will be great for you to get it back on the road as it will do you and your father proud, it must be a great honour in which you can restore this lovely e type and enjoy a driving experience when up and running.. please keep us all updated with your progress... dave,

me too, i hate garages as you feel like that your being ripped off, i do most of my work myself but it depends on if i can get accesses to the part ` plus if ive got the tools. i do hope that you can get this issue sorted. best of luck ......dave

sorry its a bit late, but to release the metal connector which is inside the plug you need a tool which is like a drinking straw. you have to insert the tool so it pushs down inside so it releases two metal prongs that hold the metal connector inplace. but the easy way is to cut the wires and fit another plug... to which it reads like you are going to do.... good luck and i hope you get it replaced........dave,

andy i like the look of your old 99 s which had a style and look in its day " retro " but as we move onto your 06 s i also like this look, as its moved forward with its style of appearance and the face of the cat badge....... with the leaper jaguar on the bonnet. me i would not change a thing... dave ps nice motors.

if still concerned? then take it for an emissions test...results from this will show how the car runs in terms of its exhaust gasses.

Two variable speed electric cooling fans are housed in the cooling fan shroud for the cooling of the radiator. The speed of the electric cooling fans are adjusted by the cooling fan motor control module, which is controlled by the engine control module (ECM). The ECM determines the cooling fan speed by receiving inputs from the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor and the dual automatic temperature control module (DATC). The ECM sends a variable pulse width modulated (PWM) signal to the fan motor control module to operate the cooling fans at the required speed. The cooling fans are operated at slow speed when the engine coolant temperature is at 95°C (203°F) and are operated at full speed when the engine coolant temperature is at 105°C (221°F). A coolant temperature between these temperatures will cause the cooling fans to be operated at a speed which is proportional to the engine coolant temperature. When the engine is running with the ECT above 100°C (212°F), if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position the cooling fans will continue to operate for a time which is determined by the ECM. If the PWM signal from the ECM to the cooling fan control module is between 7% and 95% the cooling fan control module will operate the cooling fans at the required speed. If the PWM signal from the ECM to the cooling fan control module is below 3% and above 95% the cooling fan control module will operate the cooling fans at maximum speed. If the PWM signal from the ECM to the cooling fan control module is between 3% and 7% the cooling fans will not be operated. hope this helps?

yes dave,..... they are the same guys i use if needing any parts, and a good price too, plus it gives me jag a run out.... very helpfully if you need to know anything aswell.

the only advice i can offer is turn to a breakers yard, as most car insurance companys now do this so that the car is getting a genuine part. just have your list of parts that you need and ask away for what you need! as for your colour code look for your id plate by door pillars. good luck with the repairs....dave

since joining in this forum i have enjoyed sharing many a post with other members. who to have had there own experience on there jags too. well i have done a lot to my jag since i first joined in april, and now i have just purchased new discs/front and rear plus pads, along with a brake caliper toolkit. but with the cold winter snap now coming in i shall leave this job and replace them around may time, when it starts to get warm....hopefully? for now here they are.... ps- also before fitting the discs i shall carry out a full inspection on driveshafts, steering rack/gaiters, all bushes, trackrod ends, abs sensors, suspension height, coil springs, mounting brackets, calipers/seals, plus piston movement in calipers all round, new discs then fitted with a "run out" test to check that all hub bearings are running true. new brake fluid replaced. when all fitted its a final inspection on operation of brakes, before out on the road. bedding in will take around 200miles before i get good maximum breaking. so nice and easy on that brake pedal for me.

ok, if brake caliper is checked for correct operation? i would then move on to pads/fitting! then a test on the disc for "run out" a test is done using a micrometer, where tests are done in eight positions. if after these tests and there is a run out ? a possibility maybe that it could be hub bearings. kevin hope this is a bit more help.

after reading your posts, (it maybe suspension? or its components.) when accelerating or decrease in speed and vibration is felt, this can can be a worn or damaged velocity joint or a distorted driveshaft. but with bad suspension when under any braking the bushs take out some of the vibration but if mountings are damaged along with other components the car will handle in a different manner, as you are experiencing... sorry to hear of this, but this may take time/money to try and slove this issue....good luck guys..

nice one ...yes its best to replace all lambda sensors due to the cars age plus new plugs too. glad its sorted.

you may have faulty lambda sensors which shows the engine management light, best to check all cylinders? then along with new plugs. keep us all posted on how you resolve this, dave

loving the update photos :-) man its going to look like its just rolled out the showroom from a competition.....sweet ! ! ! just remember to keep those up to date pics.

drivers seat bolster.....if i worked in design at jaguar i would have redesigned the seat bolster so that the bottom section unclips where it wears. and replace with a new section. for (x type and s type) along with better quality seat foam/padding.

the photos youve put on, it looks pretty good. it will look fantastic when finish paint and all the chrome/bright work is placed back on. will you be doing any work on the car when it gets back? may be a full valet :-) will look forward to seeing photos of the finished job....

you sound like one happy gentleman. gives you that peace of mind that its all done and everything ok. happy motoring dave....

ian, i know what you mean in what your saying! ive not long had my x type done, and i say "hell yes" good luck with the paint job.

well if thats what they refer too. its a sensor ring or known as a reluctor ring. cheers ryan for the heads up on that. dave.

The anti-lock brake system (ABS) modulates brake pressure on each wheel independently to maintain vehicle stability during braking. The ABS continually monitors the rotational velocity of each wheel anytime the ignition switch is in the ON position and determines if a tire is skidding when the brakes are applied. Only then does the ABS intervene to modulate the brake pressure to the skidding wheel. The modulation continues until the wheel rotates freely. The brake pressure is then restored and the modulate/restore cycle is repeated whenever skidding is detected. This cycle occurs at a rate of several times per second. and ive never herd of an exciter ring !!!! i think that hes giving you a load of bull.... plus a drive shaft serves a different purpose. to me it sounds more of an electrical problem. (auto electrician) is needed.

love the graphic design on the front end... roaaaaahhh, good luck with getting the screen done.

hi gary, have you searched on ebay ? as many breakers yards do place items like this. you my find one.....good luck, dave.