Jump to content


Hello to All


Recommended Posts

Hi Good Afternoon, I've joined the club as I'm potentially going to be the owner of a 51 plate 3.0ltr V6 'S' type. The car is currently owned by our friends father who after ill health has hung up his driving gloves and the car has been off the road for over 3 years. Any hints and tips or guidance would be greatly appreciated. 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites


23 hours ago, Brightspark said:

Hi Good Afternoon, I've joined the club as I'm potentially going to be the owner of a 51 plate 3.0ltr V6 'S' type. The car is currently owned by our friends father who after ill health has hung up his driving gloves and the car has been off the road for over 3 years. Any hints and tips or guidance would be greatly appreciated. 

Mark

The S-Type can be problematical, as can most Jaguars. I would advise you read through the section reserved for S-Types and gain as much knowledge of them as you can. A lot of problems can stem from battery drain, particularly with S-Types. Even new batteries need regular charging to keep on top of many problem/codes.

With the car having been off the road and no more information given about service records, maintenance and usage I would be very careful that oils, levels, gearbox oil/filter replacements have been done. If the car has been stood for three years without being run at all I feel it is safe to say that the battery will need replacing. A battery charger/re-conditioner is an almost essential piece of equipment to keep a S-Type running well. I and most other users on this  Forum will use and recommend a CTEK MS 7 or MS 8 as the reliable kit to use.

Rust to sills, behind the plastic covers, is a well known problem which cannot always be obvious without removal of plastic covers. Sub frame and mounting are rust/rot can also be another costly problem.

If the car has been stood for the three years it would be best to treat as any car you would that had not been used for that time. I.E. Recommissioning procedure/s would be the safest bet.

Welcome to the Forum/Club and to the intriguing world of Jaguar ownership. You will always find someone or other on this forum that will have suggested repair to any problem you come across. There are some well versed, helpful and experienced people on this forum.

Best Wishes and Regards, John

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks John for the info and guidance. I have started delving through the 'S' type pages and digesting relevant information. As yet i haven't found a re-commissioning guide, is there one? or knowledge amongst members. I found the pdf file for replacing the battery and have already decided on the purchase of a new battery & a CTEK charger. 

I will not be looking at this motor until November as our job keeps us both in Derbyshire till the end of October, so I'm doing my ground/home work first!

Are the sill panels easy to remove & replace so I can inspect the sills or is it a case of remove & purchase new clips?

Thanks all for your help

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Brightspark said:

Thanks John for the info and guidance. I have started delving through the 'S' type pages and digesting relevant information. As yet i haven't found a re-commissioning guide, is there one? or knowledge amongst members. I found the pdf file for replacing the battery and have already decided on the purchase of a new battery & a CTEK charger. 

I will not be looking at this motor until November as our job keeps us both in Derbyshire till the end of October, so I'm doing my ground/home work first!

Are the sill panels easy to remove & replace so I can inspect the sills or is it a case of remove & purchase new clips?

Thanks all for your help

Mark

When my sills were replaced recently the clips cam off easily and were replaced without needing new. 

As far as I am aware there is not a specific re-commissioning guide of an S-Type. It is a case of making certain everything is  is working and in good order. If an engine had not been turned over for several years I personal would make certain the engine will rotate (without actually starting it) and is not seized in any manner, before I even attempted to start the engine. Hydraulic fluids in brake system could well be water saturated and can readily be tested. tyres could be low on pressure and not having been used they may have cracks appearing in side walls etc etc.,  due to deterioration.

A lot of it is just common sense when dealing with a vehicle that has not been started or used for a few years.

Good luck with it when you do actually get around to inspecting the car.

 

Best Wishes and Regards, John

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome aboard Mark! I too recently became the owner of a 3.0 V6 SE S Type and so far (until yesterday) was enjoying it.

As John has said, there isn't really a specific recommissioning guide for the S Type, just general common sense. All fluids and filters, tyres (they could well have flat-spotted and/or perished/cracked up), check the serpentine drive belt in the engine bay, all rubber bushes etc that mount the suspension and like John advised, check for the dreaded tinworm.

They're a great car, i'm sure you will enjoy yours as much as i normally and i expect others do too! 😉 😄

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

As I'm scratching my head alot, my wife says I need to see a doctor!

Update; Well now I've viewed this wonderful S type we just can't get the tiger to roar. This is what we've done so far;
2001 'S' type Jaguar 3.0ltr V6 non runner 4 years.

13th Nov
    New 12v battery charged & fitted.
    All electrics on, no fault codes.
    PAT red light (on dash) flashing.
    3rd tank of old fuel.
    Cranked engine over, non start - not firing.
    Sounds like an electronic problem, immobiliser?
    When cranking over, fuel guage needle returns to empty.
    Battery put back on trickle charge.

20th Nov
    Battery fully charged
    Car would not unlock with the remote, used key, alarm activated. Remote then worked to switch off alarm and then the            remote works as it should.
    No flashing red light. (PAT)
    Managed to inflate all 4 tyres
    Worked through sequence of the immobiliser.
    No PAT light at all, at anytime.
    Revealed the fuel pump and no sound of any life when ignition on or when the engine is cranked over.
    Checked numerous fuses, all OK.
    Battery back onto trickle charge.
    New batteries for the remotes (cr2032)

23rd Nov

Returned to car. Battery fully charged. Charger disconnected.  Remote will not unlock car. Used key, alarm activated and remote works to stop alarm. Still no PAT red light displayed. Engine turns over but still no start.

All four tyres flat again within 4 days. They probably need to roll on the road to re seal after sitting for 4 years!

All pumped up again.

I feel theres a fault with the fuel pump as its not charging the system when the ignition is turned on and no noise when the engine is turned over. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated with 2 questions; 

1. Can i go ahead and buy the recommended fuel pump - Are all the connections the same?

2. As the PAT led light does not flash but the alarm is activated and de-activated with the remote, is the immobiliser stopping the fuel pump and therefore the engine from starting.

Thanks


 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, Jimbov8 said:

Before you go bring stuff you may not need, check the inertia switch hasn’t tripped.

Also check the fuel pump relay and fuse.

Very good point, also worth removing the trim panels for access to the whole switch and tapping the body of it with the handle of a large screwdriver until it operates (usually makes a "bah-doy-nng!" noise) and then resetting it by pressing the button on the top until it clicks.

Had many cars where although the inertia switch hasn't physicaly tripped, the contacts have become dirty due to never moving and by triggering them 2-3 times and restting each time, this has cleaned them and normal service is resumed. On some cars, the inertia switch also unlocks the car so may prevent normal operation of the central locking.

Could be worth checking for a +12V feed on the coil packs and injectors, a lost feed there will also prevent starting among other things.

Lastly check you're getting a pulse from the Crank Poistion Sensor, without this the engine management will think the engine isn't turning and inhibit the fuel pump. You could also prove it's fuel related by using EasyStart on the air intake while cranking - if it fires with Easy Start then it's definitely a fuel problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi

you need to check the fuel pump with a meter and check you have 12 volts at the pump

if its cranking over then its not the security system stopping it as it would not crank

also check you have spark

if the  car has stood with anything less than 3/4 of a tank of fuel, odss are the fuel pump has seized and rusted, if cars are stood should always be on a full tank

workshop manuals and wiring diagrams here http://www.jagrepair.com/

ideally you need a Jaguar compatible diagnostic read like Jaguar ids/sdd or icarsoft lr v3, generic ones will only read engine and not other modules to see where fault is

cheers

Joe

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share





×
×
  • Create New...



Forums


News


Membership