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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Hi all, For information, the Climate Control Unit module (passenger footwell) was defective. Impossible to reach screws, so just cable tied replacement unit to defective unit. Mike

....also I would check the age of your "new" tyres. Code for date is last 4 digits following DOT on the sidewall, first two are the week number and last two the year. So 0101 would show tyres made in the first week of 2001. If your code is 3 figures they are older than 2000 so are downright dangerous! https://btmauk.com/2021/01/26/dot-code-celebrates-50-year-anniversary/ Regards John

Having worked most of my life in electrical/electronic engineering, I can confirm there is nothing more frustrating than having to write on the job sheet "NFFAT" - No Fault Found At Test. Over the decades ive had many "Intermittently Intermittent" faults as i call them. Sometimes it's has been a long and extremely annoying process to find the fault and often when i do, i find it's a "Compound Intermittent Fault" - one where two or more problems contribute to not only the intermittent fault but the overall intermittency of it occurring in the first place. I wish you and your autoelectrician luck with finding it, you may have to lose this battle to win the war and come to an arrangement with him whereby he comes to you when it faults to investigate. This isn't just a "Jag thing", it happens to all makes and some are much worse than others! 'Tis the nature of the beast with electrical/electronic systems sadly.

my XF in a nice wooded are on the day i bought it. Then at home after fitting a chin splitter. She looks mean.

Hi Lez. At that age you are probably going to struggle to get decent cover as most are limited to 10 years or 100k after which cover limit and items covered drops substantially. There are some that will go to 12 years and 120k but personally at 10yrs I would be going with your AA option and laying aside a couple of hundred a month in a savings account to "self insure" Good luck John

Hello. I am new to Jaguar and this club, living in North Hampshire. I have a 2017 XF 2.0 D, Recently need timing chain replacement including upgrade to prevent a recurrence. Fortunately covered by dealer warranty. Prior to negotiating the repair I funded a test £200 + vat) on a main dealer rig to know for sure if new chain was needed. Result was clear. Engine now sounds better and seems a bit more responsive. Sorry this may not be of any real help to you, but the failed test result came with dire warnings of possible outcomes if the job was not done. I expect you are aware of these. All the Best and Regards, Brian C

Free to a good home 1999 jaguar s type front and rear bumpers shells. In mistral blue. Taken from my 1999 3.0 se. Car long gone but have some spares in the garage. Had no plans to get another but now have a 2007 2.7d. So body panels will fit but bumpers a different style Need the space in my garage and they will Free Collection only Message me here Or email [email protected]

Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! It’s a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!

Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the ‘secret’ keyhole!

Yes it will as it is purely mechanical.🙄

Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. I’m Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and it’s been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I ‘persuaded’ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. You’d think the story would brighten up from there but….. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didn’t have my OBD with me I wasn’t able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasn’t prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.

I don’t think I’ve posted before, so hello. Im Matt owner of a X-Type 2.2 Sovereign estate. Photo credit.. Image taken from Moves like Jaguar You Tube Video JBC @ JLR Classic

You don’t see many 3.0’s , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.

The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

Hi Steven, remove fuses F4 10A, F21 15A and F31 30A, all in the auxiliary junction which is located between the rear seats. Make sure the radio is switched off on the panel first.

Have a look here; https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/interior-rear-view-mirror-13104/jaguar/xk/xk-8-convertible-qdv

Are these what you are after? https://www.jagsparesinternational.co.uk/prodcat.asp?root=|100:259| Good luck John

............ and here we see the 3.0 Jaguar in its natural habitat, a fillng station! 🤣 Joking aside, i have an S Type 3.0 and i easily get at least 28mpg from it without trying - the big enemy of good mpg is pootling about at 30mph up and down the gears. Long straight roads, constant speed above 50mph and it gets good figures. Welcome aboard Daniel, as mentioned above, check for rust on the sills and where they meet the rear wheel arches.

HI all just a quick message from me joining again, had 07 s type, now 18, xf estate.

welcome to the fold pal

The onus is on them to carry out the work you are paying them for with an appropriate level of skill and professionalism. I would first ask to speak to the dealer principal / head of business, if you don't have any success, trading standards / consult a solicitor.

who knows...but having plenty if independent jag indy garages here in the UK we are good...not so sure in other countries. you are worried about resale value? jags are for life man 😉

Wooeehey

Hi Lennart, have you confirmed that the water pump is working correctly? A dry / empty hose would suggest that no circulation is taking place. Additionally, with an unknown history, you may wish to consider emptying the entire coolant system, flushing the waterways fully and then refilling with the correct strength and formulation of antifreeze. Mixing antifreeze types can create gelling and therefore blockage of the waterways. N6 JMX

Hi If the front end feels floaty, thats usually the shock absorbers, would replace both if it were mine cheers Joe

Hi Kevin, frustrating isn't it. Have you tried suppliers who work with the international market - like SNG Barrett, they have warehouse facilities in Europe. Alternatively, try further afield for LH drive vehicles, e.g. USA. In some instances, getting the correct part number from the Jaguar Classic website is a good starting point because you can then put that into your search engine and international hits can be found. N6 JMX

I have a Jaguar XF 2009/10. I have this problem. No comms option on menu. No Voice Control on anything. Bluetooth and phone working fine, Ideally I would like a simple solution (e.g. download an upgrade and upload to the car - here is the explanation of how you do that). Or failing that a detailed explanation of what needs to be done (e,g, go to a Jaguar dealer and suck it up). Or failing that a suggestion of where I should look to find useful help, Does no-one on this forum answer a question with a helpful answer rather than a cryptic answer involving their two years of struggling with the problem and exhibiting their detailed knowledge of all the unexplained acronyms which they have found along the way and still fail to explain? Thanks in advance for putting up with my rant.

Here's a little top tip, not applicable to all Jaguar Models, but certainly quite a few. It transpires that if someone uses the vanity mirror within the sun visors and does not slide the cover closed afterwards, the vanity light can stay illuminated. It should go out when the ignition is switched off, but if left on indefinitely, there is the potential for a fault to develop such that the vanity light stays on, even with the ignition off. Takeaway is to always ensure that the sliding cover is closed on the vanity mirror after use and not simply the sun visor flipped upwards. N6 JMX

Hi to all my fellow Jag owners. My journey to Jag ownership has not gone as I planned and started last year when I decided to act my age and sell my 350z because it wasn't getting used enough to warrant it and wanted to go old school with something really basic like an Austin 8 or similar. Then the plan was to end nearly 30 years of Range rover ownership by swapping my L320 sport for a F pace. This is where it all went off on a tangent. While watching Bangers n cash the wife took fancy to an E type which was out of budget but got me thinking you see where this is heading. XK8's are now the focus but finding a rust free example for the budget wasn't happening so up the budget till we hitting X150 territory and after weeks of searching and hundreds of miles I became the owner of a 2009 5 litre XK. To say I'm happy is an understatement what an awesome car just can't wait for the weather to improve so I can get some serious miles in it but what about the plan of an F pace well the rangee has a buyer lined up and the F pace should be here next week but I can't help the feeling I might have bit to much off but only time will tell. Pete.

As an S-Type owner, you'll be aware (I guess) of how sensitive the electronics is to low battery voltage. You'll maybe not know though, what you're expected to do after dis-connecting and re-connecting the battery. I've put together a PDF document which takes you through the procedure step by step. Nothing that isn't readily available elsewhere but just gathered together and (in my view) logically ordered into a single reference. It also includes how to get the audio system working when you don't have the security code I've been asked for it so many times that I though I'd make a thread just for access to that document so here it is:- Battery reset.pdf

It would seem the OE part is discontinued now so you stand very little chance of getting it, even if you've found it listed. However here's a couple of alternatives : https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jaguar,2000,s-type,3.0l+v6,1363294,engine,timing+chain+&+component+kit,5756 I've been using Rock Auto for about a decade, mainly for Volvo parts as my model Volvo isn't well supported in the UK and the predecessor to my S Type was also better supported in the USA than here and never had a bad part from them yet. Even with Shipping and Handling (S&H) it's unlikely to come to 400 Euros but be careful with your local customs and excise - there is usually a shipping option that is more expensive than the others and this prepays any import duty that will be charged and delivers the item to your door without going through customs and the delay and charges that will attract. It also gets round the fluctuating exchange rate - i bought something about 6 years ago, below the threshold (on the day i bought it due to a stronger pound/£) but on the day it went through customs, the £ was weaker and it crept just over the threshold - got charged import duty and a fee for the Royal Mail to send a card telling me this and a further fee for them to collect the import duty! If memory serves it was the fuel pump for my Volvo so the car was off the road for another week while Royal Mail sent me the card, i pai and then they finally delivered. Still much cheaper than buying it in the UK to start with though!

Keep it on a battery conditioner, such as a CTEK. Starting it as you suggest will help to keep everything lubricated, but is unlikely to be enough to keep the battery fully charged, and these cars do need a fully charged battery. If you can move it a bit every time you start it you will avoid flat spotting the tyres. A few feet will do, if you can try to ensure that the wheels stop at a different point each time.