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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever π . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .3 points
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Owned my new Jaguar for 3 weeks , wasn't expecting a Jag to be my first car but something just felt right about it! Itβs a Jaguar X type 3.0 v6 sovereign edition! If someone could maybe advise how rare these are (if they are in anyway!) and if they are sought after that would be great? As noticed not many for sale and registered , Happy to have joined!2 points
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Thank you all for your help and advice! I have managed to get into the boot via the βsecretβ keyhole!2 points
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Hi, just popped by to introduce myself. Iβm Andy, 55 from Market Rasen, Lincolnshire. Purchased my first Jaguar (X351), 2016 with 45,500 on 14th February this year and itβs been an eventful few months. 1 day after the dealer 3 month warranty expired she spun a bearing. Fortunately for me I βpersuadedβ the dealer that the Consumer Rights act covered the vehicle for 6 months from purchase. So they picked her up and took her on a little jaunt around several specialists until they settled on a suitable place to have the work done. Good old InControl letting me track the movements (as well as the air tag onboard!). After 10 & a half weeks of constantly chasing I was able to collect the car and bring her home. Youβd think the story would brighten up from there butβ¦.. as soon as I hit the motorway she went in to RP and as I didnβt have my OBD with me I wasnβt able to get a fix on the issue. Limped home as I suspected an air leak which was what the codes showed me. I wasnβt prepared to send her back to the dealer again after the way things had gone and set about resolving it. changed MAF A, MAP and cleaned out throttle body (which was badly choked up). Still getting RP periodically but not with any particular set of conditions. Eventually found the air intake pipe from MAF B to turbo was not connected to the turbo. No wonder I was getting RP and soot deposits on the tailpipes. Spent a considerable amount of time at the weekend figuring out how to get the pipe back on when there is zero room for tools down at the turbo to hold the spring clip open enough. Eventually got it sorted and secured. Cleared the DTC again. Hooked up SDD and ran through install throttle body, turbo etc and finally all codes cleared. Now drives like the car I was expecting and I really look forward to getting in and driving with no faults or RP. Sorry for the long story. Just so chuffed to have my car back.2 points
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You donβt see many 3.0βs , just make sure the sills are solid behind the skirts (you need to remove them to check properly) mostly I seem to spot diesels.2 points
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The elimination of Jaguar ICE automobiles can be summed up in one word, tragic.2 points
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I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG2 points
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If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.2 points
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did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly2 points
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Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX2 points
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Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar2 points
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Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. π2 points
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Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.2 points
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For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX2 points
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Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Ownersπ Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.2 points
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There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is Β£16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX2 points
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Had a similar problem on a peugot 206cc turned out there was a bearing sitting on top of the strut that had cracked after the previous owner hit a pothole. Think from memory there is a rubber damper on the top of the strut on the jags also1 point
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Hi Thomas, I am a believer in the fault likely arises from the last action you took - you removed the washer pump and put it back into place - therefore by my thinking you have likely disturbed some element of the power supply wiring, most likely the earth. But perhaps that's just me being optimistic. Don't spiral to conclusions until you can get a meter onto the pump terminals to confirm you have the correct voltages where they should be. N6 JMX1 point
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Rare chance to get a rare car. 1983 was the III series, the last of the Vanden Plas. Only 140 were made and this is thought to be one of only 2 left. Near full service history, last full one in October 2024. Immaculate walnut wood interior with gold banding. Beautiful cream leather with bespoke piping to match claret car colour. Kent alloys plus spare. Working electric windows and sun roof, original tool kit and first aid kit the list goes on. 12 page valuation of Β£18,000. Number plate valued at Β£1,000, cars nickname Lucifer. Selling well below value due to diagnosis and getting affairs in order. offers around Β£9,000. Please1 point
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I think on a 2001 XK the keyhole is on the lower right hand side of the bootlid, where the chrome badge is ?1 point
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Hi Philip, the onset of the GDPR legislation means it is very difficult to obtain historic information of a personal nature. The registration number of AGG 7 is most likely a personal / cherished plate as date related plates were already in use by DVLA at that time. The number assigned in 1999 is most likely its original assigned number that was never issued on a plate as the personal plate was retrieved from the car. Have you tried looking up the MoT history at DVLA? This may provide some clues as to where the car was located during its lifetime - try searching using both numbers. N6 JMX1 point
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Hi Kevin, it would be helpful if you gave a bit more information about the diff issue to allow folks to assess what type of service / assistance you might need. From memory, there was an episode of "Salvage Hunters Classic Cars" with Paul Cowland taking a differential to a specialist who worked from his garden shed in the Northeast of England. This guy completely rebuilt the diff - is that the level of service you are seeking? N6 JMX1 point
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Are these what you are after? https://www.jagsparesinternational.co.uk/prodcat.asp?root=|100:259| Good luck John1 point
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Hi Andy , well chuffed you finally got your jag back on the road , They can be a nightmare at times REGARDS Dave 621 point
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Thanks to you both for your opinions, much appreciated. May not have one fitted after all.1 point
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Thanks Dave - you're a star! JLR (Barrets Ashford) wanted Β£192 to supply a key. I then drove to Timpsons and they did the whole thing, in Tesco's car park, in 20 minutes, for Β£89. Job done. Thanks again. Martin1 point
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Little tip with the inertia switch - tap the body of it with the handle of a screwdriver until you hear it deploy with a definite "bah-doy-nnng" then reset it. They have a habit of furring the contacts, especially if sat for a while and this can often cause the fuel pump to not run. Also try the spare key in case the transponder in your main key has died.1 point
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Thanks for the link. Unfortunately, it does not confirm these fit my DD6 as the compatible Daimler list does not go back before 1989 and if I select a 1986 Jaguar Sovereign V12 it says it does not fit. I see struts listed for XJ40s and XJSs but didn't know if they take the same length as those on the DD6 which are about 14 inches long extended.1 point
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That where I have a problem, the manual I have gives many different settings for the alarm, including pressing a button inside, the door unlock button, it all seams a little vague Also I am not 100% certain the manual i got with the car is the right one for this car. There a few other things i have looked up and have not worked, like memory seats.....nearly crushed myself on the steering wheel!1 point
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Hello Rolland, I don't believe there is any programming. I just swapped them over Graeme1 point
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That's an idea. If the Key Fob doesn't like it I reckon that I would so it seems like a win win to me, at least something to drown the sorrows with !1 point
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Thanks, BiK3rz. It is a 2.0d. Appreciate your advice. Think I'll give this one a swerve.1 point
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Hi James, for the F-Pace SVR model, you are possibly best to look at the Jaguar Approved website, where there are currently 15 F-Pace SVR listed for sale around the country. N6 JMX1 point
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Hi Richard, good on you. Here's hoping you can get the problems resolved and another great car back on the roads. N6 JMX1 point
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Thanks for the note Phil. I was actually at the seminar and heard the advice first hand. After David's description of how the cam followers work on the 5.0 I can absolutely appreciate why clean oil is so important. Suffice to say that I will be changing my oil annually from now on as I will never hit 6,000 miles in a single 12 month period. I hope you enjoyed the seminar as much as I did. It was also great meeting some of the other owners. Thanks again for the note, much appreciated.1 point
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Hi Geoffrey, as I am sure you have found, there is nothing coming up on the web for a suitable towbar for your car, so truly out of stock. The diagram does not look overly different from the version that fits the XF, but it would need to be adjusted / fettled to suit your bolt pattern. Probably best to work with a reputable towbar supply and fit company in your area, or alternatively make inquiries with the reputable Jaguar Breakers such as Eurojag and Auto Reserve - both can be found on the web. N6 JMX1 point
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This could still be a poor battery and / or a bad set of earth connections. The ability to start the car is no longer the best test that your battery is fine. The electronics on your car are extremely sensitive to low voltage, which generally will not bother the starter motor until much later. Low voltage causes the electronic control modules to become unable to be seen by the CANBUS. N6 JMX1 point
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I had voice control on a Vauxhall Insignia. Numerous times the Sat Nav reacted by navigating to the village of Pucking Fing1 point

