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Having switched my allegiance from SAAB to Jaguar in or around 2008, purchased my first XF (Diesel second hand ) in 2010. See below next to my last Saab which I also still have. Owned two further XFs before switching to my current 2017 XF-S supercharged petrol. Love this car and will probably hang on to it forever 😜 . No intention of switching to EV despite test driving a Tesla S in 2019 ( ludicrous mode is exactly what it is) .

I posted a video on YouTube on an easy way to remove broken wheel nuts. It's really easy. I'll try and find the link https://youtu.be/p3WruqvSLqg?si=rFQ5DfAvIKzjmBsG

If you can, find another headlamp and unplug your offside/drivers headlamp and plug the wiring into the "spare" unit. If the fault persists, it's not the headlamp, if the DRL comes up bright on the spare unit then it's the light unit. However, you may find if the spare is bright, the original might "miraculously" become bright - this points to corroded/dirty connections within the plugs.

did you scan it for errors? these are not easy to diagnose, might as simple as wiring, but difficult to track where exactly

Dim lights usually points to a poor earth connection. Check the earth point for corrosion on the relevant headlight. N6 JMX

Thanks mate, I will contact them, as it happens one of my friends just mentioned Swallows to me. He told me they are excellent. I'll give them a call and get it booked in. Many thanks for your help, if there's anything I can do for you just ask. Cheers Dar

Had my car in for it's MOT today, apart from advisories on tyres which are getting replaced next week anyway and rear brake pads which are getting replaced during the service, it had a clean bill of health. Very happy with that, I've owned the car for 12 months and only had to put fuel in it. 😁

Silly me, thanks👍

hi there, 2016 xfs in yulong white with few mods here and there, stage 1, back box delete. looking fwd to be part of this community 😉

Nooooooooooo 🫣

sweet ride, oooh i can see no chrome in sight, nice👍

Nice looking car mate 👌

Steve, just as an aside, I know no longer pertinent to your original question, but: a good turn out at an X150 seminar organised by the JEC last weekend. One of the key points related to oil services for the 5L V8. David Marks was the technical/ mechanical guru delivering the presentation His advice was that the single most important maintenance step for the engine was that annual or 6k miles oil replacement/service was not just recommended, but in his experience ,essential for the long and trouble free life of the engine. Further to the regime, critical too that the oil used is CASTROL EDGE PRO, 0-20W, which is specifically recommended for JLRV8 engines. This oil even if your filler cap states 5-20, as Jaguar later a made advisory that 0-20 is the recommended grade.

For future info, where the vehicle is fitted with an Auxiliary Battery, this feeds the electronics whilst the vehicle is operating in start / stop mode, maintaining a constant 12V supply to the sensitive electronics. If you find, over time, that the start / stop function fails to operate, it can be due to either battery beginning to fail. The main battery obviously provides the capacity to physically crank start the vehicle, whilst the Auxiliary battery provides the stable voltage. Too many restarts in a short space of time, as in crawling traffic, will drop the main battery to the point where it automatically switches off the stop / start functionality until such time as the main battery has recharged itself with engine running. Typically a main battery in a stop / start vehicle will be of the AGM style, and 5-years should be considered as the typical lifespan of the battery before replacement becomes a need. N6 JMX

Good Morning Dr Daryl, Welcome to Jaguar Owners😊 Lots of great advice here if needed from the site and members. Best Regards, Aubrey.

There is a another post from the same chap (Steve) in the New Owners section where the car he is looking at is a "low" miles (28,000) 2009 facelift X-150 with a sketchy service history and these 2 x faults showing - from a private seller, meaning nil warranty. Asking price is £16.5k and whilst the Pedestrian System can be the front sensors, my experience is that the explosive cartridges are the most common fault - they need not have deployed (making the bonnet unable to close) but they do have age related deficiency's that requires them to be replaced. For that price and poor presentation / service record, I would walk away, there are plenty good examples available with more protection. N6 JMX

Hi Dan, sorry for your loss but I hope you find the JOC community able to assist you with your task. Appreciate you are new to the Forum, but if you explore the Forum Pages a little deeper, you will find that there is a specific section for dealing with the sale of cars. In the Forum front page, scroll to the bottom of the viewable pages and you will find there a "Sale" section. Make a post in there, listing the exact model of car including year, engine size, fuel type, mileage, condition, etc, Ideally, you should also provide an indication of the sale price you are looking for from the car - sorry I can't help you with that as I am not knowledgeable on the S-type models. You will also be able to attach some photos to show the car, ideally in a good light and a suitably picturesque location - driveway is not ideal but better than nothing. Show photos of the side, three-quarter view, rear and front. Show the fitted wire wheels in a separate image close-up. Provide an image of the interior, front and back, and one of the boot and engine bay - bonnet raised. Give mention of the MoT history, i.e. does it have a current MoT and the expiry date. Mention the service history - where it was performed and at what intervals. Let folks know how long the car was with your dad and how he used it - daily driver, weekend car, show car, etc. Hope this helps guide you to make a listing in the correct location of the site. Good Luck. N6 JMX

Lower the window by 11". Remove the door card and sticky foam, cut thru the flexible glue. Loosen the two window clamp bolts and remove the glass, always use a suction cup to hold the glass. Remove the speaker box then disconnect the connectors from the door lock and window motor - access the window connector via the port in the door. Unbolt and remove the window slider frame. I have removed the window motor and gearbox but it is not strictly needed, using T25 remove the DC motor and worm drive. Clean the shaft and apply a mid to heavy grease. The light oil used by Jaguar dries and there is metal contact, greatly slowing the DC motor. With that done replace, paying attention to the brush contacts. Re assembly is a reverse of the procedure. With the glass now in keep the window bolts loose and close the window fully, now tighten the glass clamps. Result: one rejuvenated window motor.

Hi Steve, as Mark has said above, it really does come down to a personal "feel" for all things considered. The 5 litre engine is VERY robust and reliable, but a gap of 3 years in the servicing (at least twice now, would make me think long and hard. Ideally, the oil should be changed annually, irrespective of the mileage between service intervals, but nothing much else in the service regime is such an issue. My mind would think that if the previous owner(s) had skimped on getting the servicing completed - which is not at all a cheap item at a main dealer (circa £600 each visit), what else has been skimped on, so look extremely carefully at all other aspects of the vehicle before committing hard cash into the deal. With the car at coming on 10 years old, the tyres could be needing changed - 5 years is about it on these cars, irrespective of the tread remaining. The tyres should also be premium branded such as Dunlop Sport Maxx in J, for Jaguar, specification. Check the tyres carefully and if they are mismatched, or not premium, have a rethink. Also check the tyre dates on the sidewall's - refer to the Kwik Fit website for information on that if you are not sure. Also at 10 years old, the battery could well be due for replacing, again a 5 year interval between battery replacement is a good proactive / preventative maintenance option. Uncover the battery - it's in the boot behind a trim panel depending on coupe or convertible - and if it is still an original Jaguar stickered battery, once again think about the skimping that may have taken place. These cars have large / expensive brake discs and callipers and with missed servicing regime, the pads could well be seized in the callipers and the discs scored or warped - check on the test drive for any braking issues such as vibration or long pedal. Often, low mileage cars can be more trouble than a well maintained and cherished high miler - such as Mark has. If you do go ahead with the purchase, I hope you have years of trouble free motoring. They are fantastic machines with Supercar performance at Mondeo money. N6 JMX

I have great news S type jaguar 3.0 2001 Y554BPA coolant tank, fitted today no longer waiting for part jaguar has got this coolant tank in stock.

@Ivan forster do you have pictures of some of these parts? We need to verify you own these parts before allowing you to sell these here.

eBay don’t have any so I will try some breakers yards but it was worth asking. Thank you for your reply

Welcome aboard Jim, and I hope you have many happy miles in your XKR Convertible - Zero. As you will note if you have already been trawling in this section of the Forum, there is a lot of knowledge and a willingness to share this with fellow Enthusiasts. If you have already suffered from the dreaded tin worm on your unfortunate XJ, then I am assuming that you had the underside of Zero fully checked out ahead of purchase. The main body may be aluminium, but that doesn't guarantee no corrosion, just a different version, but the underside has steel subframes that can get into a really poor state very quickly. This is especially the case if the car has been used year round and seen salted roads or, strangely enough, if the car has spent some of its life living by the seaside. Let's see a few photos when you can. N6 JMX

Finally i got a Jaguar XE 25t 2019 with 45000 miles I found that the ingenium diesel has a lot of issues (with more critical the tensioners and the timing chain) and the same engine in petrol is better

completetly different cars...EV vs diesel - personally would go for xf 3.0d...much more refined than 2.0. depending what year make we talking about in terms of 2.0 ingenium diesel. after 2019 there were design changes to it and they are more reliable than in 2016-2018 models

Hopefully this will help you out; airbag code 16 indicates a passenger seat weight sensor CAN fault. This means there's a communication issue with the sensor that detects if someone is sitting in the passenger seat. The CAN (Controller Area Network) is a communication bus that various modules in the car use to talk to each other, and the fault code suggests a problem with the signal from the passenger seat weight sensor being transmitted over the CAN. Here's a more detailed explanation: Passenger Seat Weight Sensor: This sensor is located under the passenger seat cushion and is designed to detect the weight of a person sitting there. CAN Fault: The CAN bus is a communication network that allows different modules in the car to exchange data. If the passenger seat weight sensor is not communicating properly with the other modules (like the airbag control module) via the CAN, it will trigger code 16. Possible Causes: Faulty weight sensor under the seat. Wiring or connection issues in the passenger seat weight sensor circuit. A problem with the CAN bus itself (less likely). Faulty passenger airbag module.

look on ebay for maps updating services, plenty out there.

Thanks for the information it's appreciated. It is the middle module the one in the footwear drivers side. I have obtained the SDD and am in the process of reprogramming it to the car, I had the old one cleared byMuggles in Lincoln, so far so good

Thanks, BiK3rz. It is a 2.0d. Appreciate your advice. Think I'll give this one a swerve.

Click on the picture and expand it when it comes up.

Sorry yes it was...

Now then, now then, jingle jangle chrome. 😁

hah, what are you doing here?🤣

good news. many thanks for getting back, Alexander. off to eBay now. Barry.

Hi there. I am new to this forum and am in a bit of a pinch (very lucky to say that given the situation). I have had the fortunate of inheriting a Type 1, 3.8 litre straight 6 E-type Jaguar. Sadly however, I am not in the position to be able to restore this beautiful car to its former glory. After much thought and with a heavy heart, I have decided that it would be best that the car be taken on by someone who can give it the care and attention it deserves. If anyone would be interested in purchasing the car, or knows anyone that would I would be grateful to discuss. I have all relevant paperwork/log books which come with the car, as well as have a few replacement parts should they be useful. I am happy to answer any questions to the best of my knowledge.

Never!!!!..LOL

Hi Michael https://www.ashwoodjagparts.co.uk/product-page/fuel-pump-jaguar-s-type-3-0-4-0-xr822164p https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.com/products/s-type-fuel-pump-xr822164 https://advancedautomotives.com/sytec-hi-replacement-fuel-pump-kit-jaguar-s-type-30-v6-40-v8-aston-itp316-12125-p.asp Hope that helps. John

Hi Karl, your battery is a key element of your Modern XK and its ability to start the car (or not as in your case) is no longer a pointer to whether the battery is fit for further service. All modern cars, especially Jaguars, need the battery to be in top condition to allow the multitude of electronics onboard to function correctly. Typical signs of a failing battery are spurious warning lights and apparent electrical gremlins. In truth, I and many others, consider the battery in a Modern XK to be a consumable item and changed at circa 5 years old. In some cases with low usage and regular connection to a battery conditioner when the car is not being used, the battery life can be extended. In your case, unless you know the history of the battery and can confirm it to be less than 5 years old, I would suggest it be changed at the earliest opportunity. Ensure you select the replacement to be of the correct power and dimensions - the battery must fit and be secured into the battery tray, otherwise it is an MoT failure. At a resting voltage below 12 volts, it would seem to be past its prime. Also, as you have discovered, earth connections are also important and I would suggest you check any and all that you can locate around the car. Let us know how you get on. N6 JMX

Hello. I just purchased a 2013 Jaguar CK coupe. Looking forward to enjoying the ride

Hi Russell, I think you will find that these are not for any specific Jaguar model from the period. Instead they are an early period modification to incorporate "knock-on" spinners to the hub caps of, probably, some of the big saloon models of the day - e.g. the Mk VI. N6 JMX

Merry Christmas to the members of the Jaguar Owners Club Enjoy the festive break and see you back here in 2025

I don't know where you are in Europe but a local breaker would be able to fix you up probably off the shelf these days. Make sure it is the same type and that hopefully the adjustment system is OK. Repair kits for this are readily available for about 60 quid. By the way the way you need to remove the front to do the job. M

Sorry to hear that but I understand as I am in the same position. Best of luck

Hi Paul, welcome to the forum and thanks for posting a few pictures of your very presentable XF. Hope you have may enjoyable motoring miles with it. Believe it or not, Jaguar actually allows folks to download and keep the Quick Start Guide and the Owners Handbook for free, check out via the link below. If you want a physical handbook for the glovebox, there are usually some to be found on eBay, or from the Breakers like Auto Reserve. Jaguar XF Library & Owner Manual | Jaguar Owners N6 JMX

Thanks O.T.H, I'm very pleased with it

Hi You might want to put more info up like what engine it has, reg and any service history and plenty of pictures if your selling, would recomend Ebay as a classified, fixed price and has by far the best auidience of any other platform in the uk cheers Joe

Just for info, after discussion with JLR they agreed the car was UK built then exported to Japan. a helpful chap then sent me the original build specification for the car Result!

Struggling to find part numbers MJB1341AC and MJF1346AA ... my usual go to Barretts are not coming back with any information. Nearside front suspension arm and bush. Any help out there in XK8 land?

Hi Andrew, I assume you have not yet undertaken a trial fit of your 18 inch space saver, at least to the front axle of your XKR? As Jim has stated above, the 18 inch, red wheel WILL NOT FIT the XKR as a consequence of the larger front brake callipers. It has to be the 19 inch space saver for the XKR, which in Jaguar supplied days was black in colour, whilst the 18 inch was red. Nowadays, there are multiple companies offering space saver spare wheels and one can no longer rely on selecting by the colour of the wheel. I have spotted black space savers that are only 18 inch. Anyone who needs / wants to procure a space saver spare wheel needs to take due care and attention so as not to be caught out. And, DEFINATELY do not elect to purchase a suitable standard (front) road wheel as that would be dangerous if fitted to the car in a puncture situation. In these cases, it is not a diameter issue to fit over the rear callipers, but it is an "offset" issue to avoid binding on the spokes on the rear. Look at a company called Road Hero, who use Kwik Fit as a retail agent. They offer a complete kit, including chocks and jack, which all came with the Jaguar supplied version. N6 JMX

Hi I'm looking to do CCF edits. Any recomendation on what and where to buy? Thanks