Big John

Hi Matt and welcome. First port of call is the battery. If the battery is more than 5 years old I would change it. These cars, like all modern premium cars, eat up the amps at an alarming rate so unless your battery is recharged often by a long run it will suffer a drop in voltage sufficent to upset at least one of the many computer modules. If possible put it on charge and see if that solves the problem. Personally I would use a Ctek charger at least weekly. Make sure you use a charger capable of handling the AGM battery. Also if the battery is low the S/S will not be working. Also worth checking for water in drivers footwell as the washer bottles can leak and flood the electrics causing all sorts of wierd problems so fingers crossed yours is nice and dry... Good luck, John

Hi Opinion varies but this is from the Jaguar Workshop Manual pg 2201; http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/CarPDFFiles/2007XK/X150Service.pdf The 6HP26 transmission has the following features: • Designed to be maintenance free • Transmission fluid is 'fill for life' • The torque converter features a controlled slip feature with electronically regulated control of lock-up, creating a smooth transition to the fully locked condition • Shift programs controlled by the TCM • Connected to the Engine Control Module (ECM) via the high speed Controller Area Network (CAN) bus for communications • Default mode if major faults occur • Diagnostics available from the TCM via the CAN .... My choice has always been to leave "sealed for life" systems alone. Your choice 🙂

Have you tried to replicate noise without leaving car parked? My X type does make a clunk of the pads freeing from the disk as I reverse off the drive. it is only being driven once a week at the moment. Maybe try the manouvere without giving the front brakes time to "stick". Good luck John

Hi Tim I love mine (27k and serviced every year!) Your issue sounds like the pistons are sticking in the cylinders so not properly returning when pressure is released. It could well be if there was air and condensation in the system causing corrosion you may end up needing new calipers all around as well as a new master cylinder assembly to solve all of the issues. If it is half as good as mine though it will be worth it in the end 🙂 Good luck John

https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/accessories/wiper-washer-system/xf-xj-2008-2022-windscreen-washer-pump.html https://www.berkshirejagcomponents.com/products/xf-screen-washer-pump-c2z30987 Good Luck John

Hi Tim Presume you have already had a look at the sills as these are hidden behind the plastic covers and are VERY prone to rust. Mine had some rust but has had full repair plates welded to both sides and the whole underbody is now protected with Lanoguard. Good Luck with yours John

Hi Tim If the piston seal on the master cylinder or slave cylinder is perished it is possible that the fluid simply by passes the piston, so no compression. However you would expect that to be showing as a leak.... John

Hi Tim The brakes are a simple hydraulic circuit. Pressure applied at the pedal is transmited to the rear of the brake pads pushing them onto the disc. So there are a limited number of reasons for your symptoms. Firstly the brake pedal is not compressing the fluid inside the master cylinder. If that part is working OK and there are no leaks in the system the hydraulic pressure must be passed to the slave cylinder. Unless that is seized the pressure will force the pads against the disc. If all parts are free and connected with no leaks, applying pressure at one end will make the other end move.... unless there is air in the system somewhere. Air is compressible, brake fluid is not, so if you have any air in the system it will absorb the applied pressure rather than transmitting it. No leaks suggests an air-lock somewhere. Regards John

How long is a piece of string? 30 mins use on a track day maybe 500 miles gentle driving. My view is the warning is there for a reason, to tell you it needs attention, so I would do it ASAP and drive VERY gently until it was done. Brakes and tyres are top of my list to keep me, and everyone else safe 🙂 Regards John

Good luck John

Hi Tony My understanding is that the car has at least 3 copies of the entire software stored in different locations within the many modules so a competent mechanic with the right tools should be able to restore the corrupted files from individual modules. I think you have been told some porkies as I am very dubious that "Jaguar" would / could do a remote diagnosis particularly through an independent garage rather than a main dealer. My guess is that one or more modules were corrupted when they disconnected / reconnected the battery to work on the washers. John

Personally I would contact my Bank STAT and explain, as identify fraud scam may well be in hand....... Good luck

....at that price I would be running away rather than walking.....

Simple enough check on the explosive side is that if they have deployed the rear of the bonnet should be obviously raised. I agree the sensors seem to be the ususal cause of problems with this system. Not sure but I think you should be able to read the oil level and pressure with via the OBD port. Might be worth a discussion to see if the seller is willing to take it to a specialist with you.... Depending on the price and your circumstances might be worth a punt 🙂

Hi That looks like the passive mis-fuelling has NOT been triggered as that is bright yellow plastic. The passive device is to prevent fuel flow when a petrol hose HAS been inserted into the filler. I think you are looking at the actiive mis-fuelling device which is designed to prevent a petrol nozzle actually being inserted in the filler. The handbook suggests that you may be simply holding the pump incorrectly.... https://www.ownerinfo.jaguar.com/document/2H/2017/1390844/proc/G1862756/G1901405 Good luck John

Hi Brian That code could be one of a number of issues with the Catalytic Converter. Personally I would get it to an independent Jaguar specialist to sort. This video might help a bit: Good luck John

Hi Clive. This the one? :https://www.britishparts.co.uk/classic-jaguar/jaguar-xjs/steering-suspension/power-steering-hose-cac3654 Regards John

Hi Probably the gear linkage bolts. This video (actually about transmission oil change) describes how to tighten them. I think as it is an American video that "Drivers side" may actually be our passenger side. Good luck John

Hi Paul My guess is that the software on one, or more modules, has been corrupted by the low voltage. It happened to my XF during the Covid lockdown and stopped the rear doors locking / unlocking and the rear windows opening and closing. Sorted under warranty for me by dealer (non-jaguar). I think if the garage use the Autologic system they should be able to sort it for you. Apparently Jag dealers like to replace the module which costs rather a lot.... For the future I would recomend using a battery maintainer (I use Ctek) if you are not using the car for that long, and probably as a regular habit at least every couple of weeks. As an aside I would replace the battery at least every 5 years as they are a consumable and do deteriorate with age/use and particualry if allowed to go flat... Good luck John

.. thats a bugger, there was one left when I posted 😞

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266692167215 Regards John

Hi Patrick. If your DPF warning is amber just take it for a run and it should clear itself after 30 mins or so. If it is red I would advise taking it to a garage where they can properly diagnose and test the problem. Regards John

Hi Patrick I can.t see the image but as a rule going for a drive of at least 30 mins at a constant speed around 50-70 should force a DPF regeneration. (basically your "soot filter" is blocked and the car needs to burn it clean). However, if you have just bought it from a garage you should take it straight back an get them to sort it. Just refer to section 14 of the Sale of Goods Act 1979 which requires products sold to be of "satisfactory quality". Regards John

Hi Jon I feel your pain. TX valve on my XF is stuck. £30 valve that needs two screws undoing to replace. Except to get at it you need to remove the entire dashboard and Heating and Ventilation / Air conditioning system 😞 Good luck John

Hi John. Only thing to add to Jim's excellent advice would be to ensure you get the correct "type". I think yours uses an Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) rather than a traditional wet cell battery and replacing with the wrong type will almost certainly cause problems. When I got my XF it had a standard wet cell fitted, presumably as they are about half the price of the AGM but often fail within 12 months so if the previous owner was already thinking of selling when it was replaced...... Regards John