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LairdScooby

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Everything posted by LairdScooby

  1. What is the exact problem/symptoms with yours? From 1998 on, OBD-II was fitted to many vehicles and was mandatory by 2001, you may be able to find out which ABS sensor is duff (assuming that it the problem) using a cheap generic OBD-II scanner/reader but probably won't be able to clear the fault. I'd offer the use of my scanner but with a 220 mile round trip, it would probably cost as much in fuel as getting someone in a garage to scan it.
  2. Welcome aboard David. I agree with Trevor, many conversions were carried out to cars that didn't have an estate in their range back in the 60s and 70s - Ford Zephyr Mk3, Triumph Stag estates, Rover P6 "Estoura" to name just three although to be fair, the Stag estate was based on a 2000/2500 estate with a Stag engine and brakes fitted. There was also a pair of SD1 Rover estates, one produced in house by grafting on a Volvo 245 back end and the other (if memory serves) by FLM Panelcraft and Ladbroke Avon produced a Series III XJ6 estate : https://www.aronline.co.uk/cars/jaguar/xj6-xj12/avon-jaguar-estate/ Avon also produced the Avon Acclaim, essentially a Triumph Acclaim with Jaguar-like luxury and also a turbo version. Many conversions exist as aftermarket, sadly few manufacturers actually build their own estates from the drawing board onwards.
  3. Welcome aboard Bill! I live next door to a UK USAF base and see many American cars around - seems kind of weird seeing a couple of British cars (looking different with US spec lights etc) outside a US home! Hope you have a great time with your Jags! 😉 😄
  4. You're welcome, good luck with it! It's worked on the other cars, i'm not sure if the Jag seats are wildly different but would think there is a fairly common adjustment mechanism sold to a variety of manufacturers so hopefully the same method will work across marques.
  5. I'm not sure about the Jag seats but have come across similar problems on other cars where the drive from the motor gets "lost" due to a coupling failure on the seat. If you can only access the bolts with the seat completely moved forward or backwards you may have to crawl under with a mirror, torch and a pair of grips, identify the rod that isn't turning when it should and turn it with the grips to move the seat backwards and forwards so you can remove the bolts. Will be a very slow operation but at least you'll be able to remove the seat, find and fix the fault and then refit it.
  6. Probably not, depending whether yours is a facelift or not, you remove the two clip in panels next to the radio and drawer/cubby hole and remove the four bolts holding the radio/drawer assembly in, pull it out and you can then unplug and remove the CCM - later cars are different and i'm not sure how they come out. The small panel below the CCM also needs popping out, this houses the heated seat switches and behind it are two more bolts holding the CCM in. You can see those two bolt holes, one near the aerial plug and if memory serves there's another pair, one each side further up.
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