JOE-DOT-COM

HI You want a long box spanner or the next size down long reach socket use one of the other plugs and find a socket thats just smaller and then knock it onto the damaged plug, it should grip it enough to get it out or even a piece of steel pipe, you want it, just smaller than the plug, then knock it on, if its one of the back ones, you will struggle dont use a socket with the 12 flats, use one with the 6 flats if you can find any thing, get some steel wire 1.5mm to 2.5mm, like a welding rod, bend it into a shape similar to the spark plug, you want it so it slides inside the spark plug socket, so it slots into two opposite corners, then at the bottom of the socket, bend the wire out so it can't slide into the socket you want this wire to take up the slack from the corroded plug and socket, you want it a tight fit, so it knocks on, light taps till it goes on, the tapping will also help free the plug hopefully that should get it out also if the car is still a runner, the plug insulator is not damaged, then I would only try knocking the steel pipe on it or a smaller long reach socket, as any thing else might damage the insulator, leaving the plug faulty and then a non runner cheers Joe sorry for the quick sketch, but it should give you the idea

Hi its available on ebay also found this which was a good deal 4lt for £22.50 or 4 x 4lt for £90, 16 litres for £90 delivered cheers Joe

Hi don't know if this helps but you can put your dash in a diagnostic mode and read the data coming from the fuel level gauge and you should be able to find out what up with it I have attached the relevant pages and the complete workshop manual, page 2456 is where it starts cheers Joe These are just google off the tinternet manual 2008XFWorkshopManual.pdf your looking at fuel gauge operation and fuel gauge reading and when in diagnostic mode its test 21 for the fuel gauge

Hi 2012 is the last update discs they did Don't think there's any money in it for them to keep updating them I was trying to find a more up to date disc, from other manufacturers that used the same nav dvd unit , but to no success so its 2012 is the most up to date cheers Joe

hi Glad your sorted, The XF Gear shift console, you don't seem to see many for sale second hand At least with a new one you can forget about it for a good while cheers Joe

Hi Have you got any deals on castrol edge proffesional A5 5w30 cheers Joe

Hi Not sure but there's a few clips of people using it on youtube maybe some one will try it, but it would be good if it works most headlights lenses are made of a polycarbonate type plastic, so the right chemical would clean it, like the first wipe they use, second wipe might be some kind of sealer if I see it listed over in the uk, I would be tempted to try it cheers Joe

Hi Saw these clips in a few places and these look good how easy is this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O50LZuQXxcA Not seen them over here yet though though they are on ebay from abroad for £14 cheers Joe

cheers, will give it a go

Hi WD40 works every time, once its free, get some oil in as well cheers Joe

Hi Wow, thats a bit aggressive I replaced both my bulbs for 8k ones, blue tint, took bumper off, removed both head lights, replaced the broken adjusters and cleaned them out , in just under two and half hours I bet they will steam up now as well, the headlights are quite expensive, even second hand cheers Joe

double post

Hi Thats well nice, want get mine done have you got a link to his site or facebook cheers Joe

Hi there's a switch on the brake pedal, brake pedal has to be pressed before it will release, check connector/plug is securely on, you could operate the switch and actually check its working also if it was put in park before the park brake was applied, the weight of the car on the park mech could be holding it, especially if its parked on a slope try releasing the park brake and rocking the car and see if it will release, watch the car will not roll away it it releases, put some blocks a few inches in front of the tyres just check you steering lock has released also, tension on the steering can also stop the steering lock from releasing you could also try disconnecting the battery if none of the above work, its plug in and see if there's any fault codes cheers Joe

Hi what Raistlin Said, Bumper off I'm affraid have a look here http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s-type-s-type-r-supercharged-v8-x200-15/2005-front-bumper-skin-removal-w-pics-faq-28534/ cheers Joe

Hi One thing to check is battery, on most jaguar's there's that many electrics, if the battery get low it causes lots of module errors, If it does it on first startup is usually battery getting tired, try putting on charge over night, leave battery connected and give it a good charge, if it cures it for a while, might be worth looking at a new battery if it older than 3 years on a diesel Cheers Joe

Hi That's the first place I'd look, it's the heart of the beast, I bet the sound track of it running is good as well Cheers Joe

Hi and welcome looks really nice, post some engine bay pics up cheers Joe

Hi and welcome very nice, post some pics up cheers Joe

Hi The 2.5 and 3.0 v6 dont have a cambelt, they are chain driven, so as long as milage is low and there quiet, will last, high milage cars, timing chain can rattle when they stretch with age the s-type diesel are of tdv6 2.7, v6 twin turbo, generally reliable if well looked after, later DPF models can give more problems, these have two belts which need replacing, cam belt and fuel pump belt check every thing work, all the electrics, take it for a good run, check the 6 speed auto box, suspension should be silky smooth, any knock or bangs could be a bush, there's a lot of them on the s-type check for water in the boot, it leaks in above the rear lights, use something like vehicle smart to check cars mot history one major check has to be the sills, some suffer more than other, not down to year, later ones also suffer, the sill can completely rust away, which are hidden by plastic covers cheers Joe

Hi When I was after my car, the one's I liked were all ways far away If you wait and don't rush into it, One will eventually come up with the spec you want and within traveling distance cheers Joe

Hi When I was after my car, the one's I liked were all ways far away If you wait and don't rush into it, One will eventually come up with the spec you want and within traveling distance cheers Joe

Hi if there working I've know the speaker/beeper to fail cheers Joe

Hi Try https://www.britishparts.co.uk/ or http://www.sngbarratt.com/Home.aspx cheers Joe

Hi I'd convert to solid flywheel, every time, fit and forget but you just said it makes the the noise when you slightly depress the clutch, that sounds like thrust bearing to me usually a failing dual mass will go quiet when slightly depressing the clutch are you sure the trust bearing was changed when it had a clutch, I'm sure they are a concentric cylinder type thrust bearing, they don't usually come with a clutch kit, with them being more expensive is there any way you can check the thrust bearing/concentric cylinder was replaced when the clutch was cheers Joe https://www.britishparts.co.uk/products/10838-slave-cylinder-C2S46903